Well then, from one 'naud' to another,,,, sounds like you have the 'warming resistors' issue that happens when install LED full LED flashers and you no longer need to keep the incandescents 'warm'. It was common on System 11 games to have to remove them if you went LED flashers and that is the symptom you have.

I 'thought' WPC-95 didn't use them, so let me go dig out some prints in a bit and take a look.

Did this just start or did it work fine prior?

Thanks for the help, naud! Just got this pin a couple of weeks ago. I suspect that it has always been like this. It was already LED'd out when I got it, which looks great. These are the only two LEDs that aren't flashing, however.
Now, to test this, I just put in some incandescents and they don't fire either. So, something is amiss upstream.
I found this on the pinwiki, that in test mode if you hit the start button it will give you lots of info.
The left popper flashers are blu-red red-wht wires. J122-2 J107-6. F111 5amp sb fuse. Drives Q24 and Q23.
So, now I've checked the wires, the J122 and J107-6 connections (good and solid, no burns). Q24 and Q23 aren't shorted out.
Any ideas what I should look at next?

I've left the club as I ran out of space. I have a brand new blu ray collectors pack, which includes the endoskeleton skull/bust. I bought it to use as a topper but never did. I didn't think to list it here, first, but it's on ebay and ends tonight (around 9:30pm EST).

ebay.com link: ebay.com

If a pinsider wins I'll ship via priority for the cost of first class. Sorry for the spam.

WOO HOO! EARLY X-MAS FOR ME!

Thanks again to Brock! Long time coming, you do great work man.
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Bad link Mocean. What were you asking for it? Drop me a PM I'm just up the road. I *errrr* I mean Santa already has me a set of the regular blue ray, not the collectors pack, but a topper would not be a bad idea.

Way to go Drano! Welcome to the club!

You guys are making me want a T2 again...

Hey, sorry... I should have posted it sooner, here. The winning bidder paid and it's on it's way. It bid up to $131+shipping which was really welcome this time of year... my new pin needed a lot of help (read: parts).

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I have just finished shopping out a pretty sweet T2 that I picked up a couple of weeks ago.
The good:
LEDs throughout. Excellent boards. No playfield wear. Hunter ship and skull in excellent shape.

The bad:
A couple of pin holes in the translite. Acrylic touchups fixed it nicely.
Just a couple of dings on the cabinet. Picked up some acrylics paints and fixed it right up.
A chipped plastic.
The playfield LEDs are all frosted whites. Not really a bad, but I replaced them with blue frosted and they look great.
Left pop flasher doesn't work (might be a bad Q23 Q24, but it's not bothering me too much, so I'll live with it for now).

Here's a picture of the broken plastic for which I was able to make a replacement!
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I traced out the plastic on a piece of 1/4" mdf and trimmed it on the bandsaw. Then with a bastard file I shaped it to the exact outline of the needed plastic. Then using double sided tape I attached a piece of clear acrylic to this template and created an exact replica of the plastic on the router table using a flush trim bit.
Next I was able to get an image of the plastic and printed it on an inkjet decal sheet. I attached that to the plastic, sprayed clear on top, and white primer on the backside. The result is a pretty good replacement plastic!

I did a full cleanup and installed offboard batteries, a red start button, chrome flipper buttons, Pinbits plastic protectors, undercab lights, apron cards, keychain and colored LEDs in the backbox.

Here is a mod I did on the hunter ship. Using the hunter ship protector, I hot glued 4 flex LEDs and wired it up to the GI.
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This gave me a blue glow to the hunter ship with reds under the engines.
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Here's a few more pics of the finished project.
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Nice T2.

I did something similar with my hunter mod. I hot glued the flex LED's to the protector. I cut the LED's off of the bases (be careful not to cut the resistor) If you have more than one color, mark them so you can tell them apart off the base. I put blue lights around the edges that are connected to the GI and I put 5 red ones spaced up the middle that will be connected to the white target lights. I will finish it during the holidays sometime. I got involved in another project.

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Does anyone have from a parted out playfield a spare of the metal strip that sits on the target bank that the hunter ship sits on please?

Not the wire, the metal plate that sits below the wire and above the target bank.

I installed the L-8 ROM recently (had L-3 before) and I see that there are some new menu options now that aren't in my manual. I'm curious what they mean:

A.1 31 TICKET EXP. BOARD
(FAC. SETTING) NO

A.1 32 NO BONUS FLIPS
(FAC. SETTING) NO

A.1 33 GAME RE-START
(FAC. SETTING) SLOW

A.2 20 DROP TRGT. BROKEN
(FAC. SETTING) OFF

A.2 21 DRPTRGT DWN MLTI
(FAC. SETTING) OFF

---------------------
A.1 31 TICKET EXP. BOARD
Meaning: additional ticket board installed?

A.2 20 DROP TRGT. BROKEN
Meaning: drop target mechanism won't pop up, machine will compensate?

Drop down multi means that when you fill the skull for the super jackpot shot, it will kick the ball to the cannon right away and let you fill the skull again for another shot after the first super jackpot....its pretty much cheating.

This is awesome. Nice work! Now you just need a pair of those special Terminator Eyes to finish it off.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3256

Also perhaps some speaker lights?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3281

Thought I'd share this with everyone. Last night I had a killer game going on (for me) and all of a sudden the dmd started showing garbage. In test mode I was getting the dreaded RAM Address Error.
This morning I was about to move the displays / display driver cards to another machine to verify what was busted, but first I reseated the ribbon cables. Guess what! It's back in operation. So, reseating the ribbon cables fixed it.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Enaud

Looks like I'm now officially in!

Huge thanks to Scott in upstate NY for being very accomodating and helping me to get this baby to Buffalo!
Just nipped over the border last night and picked it up from my buddy.

This is one of the nicest all-original T2 I have ever seen.
She's been well looked after.

I Just had time to set it up in a temporary spot and play a few games. It's perfect!

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If only I could.
Pinbits never seems to have stock.

But I do have a nice T1000 on the way

Finally finished my mod for the ship. Blue LEDs connected to the GI. I tried tying into the 5 target lights for the red LEDs but it created ghosting back to the inserts in the playfield.

I ended up tying into the cannon flashers. I think it turned out pretty well.

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Contact Pam @ Pinbits. I recently ordered the T2 Plastic Protectors and put a note with my order that I wanted to order a hunter ship mod but it was showing it was out of stock. Next day I received a paypal request to send further funds for one. I have now received my order and postage was fast.

Same here. Pinbits showed out of stock but wasn't really.

Question for you guys: when you launch a ball, where does the ball head toward after it hits the bank of 5 targets? On my T2 it heads underneath the skull a high percentage of the time. This presents two issues: 1) it gives the player a free opportunity to lock the ball or it actually does the lock ball (if the drop target was already down) and 2) the ball sometimes get stuck balancing on top of the skull drop target because it is at times traveling at just the right speed to make it that far but not far enough to get locked.

I tried changing the angle of my drop targets to face down the playfield more but it didn't seem to help. Any suggestions on what I can do to have the ball avoid the skull area at launch?

Hi All. Just in follow up to one of my previous posts on this thread: Now all the colors of LED rings are available. I have Red, Blue, Green, and Purple. These will only fit Terminator 2 as well as Bride of Pinbot and FunHouse. Here are photos and also here is a video link. Private Message me if you want more info. Thank you.

BOP black background.jpgGreen Simulated black background.jpgT2 no text black background.jpgBlue FH black background.jpg

I need some advice from the club.

I want to put some blue undercab LED lighting under my T2.

What's the best/cheapest way to get this done?

Double post

Another fail.

I have it on mine (pictured)

- you can see the blue glow underneath. The easy thing to do is go to the auto parts shop (Autozone in my town) and get a pair of blue led strip lights for cars. They are pair, about 1 foot long each, and cost around $20. Then, run the wires to the 12vdc of the machine, up through the grill of the base speaker. The coin door has 12VDC on it.

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I was just surprised by a T2 I picked up yesterday. When I lifted the playfield it had red boards. The MFG date is March 1991. Here are some pictures.

Sean

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Cool. Pre production, ya?

I think it may be a prototype machine. I have a JM that has all red pcb's as well.

Don't buy at an auto parts store. Way overpriced. Just get a strip on Ebay, stick it to your undercabinet and connect to 12v. ebay.com link: 5M 16 4FT 3528 Bright Hyper Blue SMD 300 LEDs Waterproof Flexible Strip Light

Any one else have cracking and wearing at their ball drops in the inlanes? The left side on mine is brutal...thinking about a piece of mylar on both sides. Worst part of my playfield by far.

I would definitely put some mylar there. Wax it really good before you put it on or it will lift the paint if you ever have to peel it off. (even with freeze spray)

Yikes!!!

Ugh, I really would rather not then, but I guess I have no choice. Thanks for the tip.

I'm in the same situation. My playfield is in pretty good shape but the left inlane is pretty bad at the ball drop. I was also thinking about putting down a mylar square...

Don't think about it do it. Pinball life sells them.

Ive got a full sheet of mylar I will cut a rectangle out of for both drops after i clean and wax my machine.

Die Cut Ball-Drop Protective Playfield Mylar $.39

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=305