(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 45 hours ago by Santis
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There are 10,811 posts in this topic. You are on page 212 of 217.
#10551 3 months ago
Quoted from Kabball:

Any suggestions on playfields out there in the wild to buy and use for this project or am I stuck refurbing my existing one?

Yea as @pinballinreeno said there's a repo being made, you can follow this post to see the progress..
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-judgment-day-repro-playfields-pre-order-open/page/3#post-7878520

#10552 3 months ago

Since Black Friday is coming up, and Comet has a nice Black Friday sale for their LEDs:

- How many LEDs (Wedge, Bayonet, Flasher) do I need for the T2?
- Which lens to prefer: Frosted or Clear?
- Cool White, Sunlight, Warm White? Can't decide.
- Use only white LEDs for everything, or do white as well as red, blue etc. for the playfield?

Any hints - or photos? - based on your experiences?

#10553 3 months ago

Here is my restored pinball. I love it. Ant did an incredible job. The picture and video don't do it justice.

machine (resized).jpgmachine (resized).jpg
#10554 3 months ago

An excellet machine with improved Skull, Color DMD, Hunter Killer Ship, PinSound and Shaker.
Hope L8.4 works fine and no scattered pixels at startup?

If you use Color-DMD and you have scattered pixels, I have an update for your to eleminate this issue.

#10555 3 months ago
Quoted from Dinsdale:

Here is my restored pinball. I love it. Ant did an incredible job. The picture and video don't do it justice.[quoted image]

That's better than it was when it was new! Great job!

#10556 3 months ago
Quoted from Dinsdale:

Here is my restored pinball. I love it. Ant did an incredible job. The picture and video don't do it justice.[quoted image]

Amazing work...EXCELLENT!!!

#10557 3 months ago

How good is the shaker in the T2?

#10558 3 months ago

The shaker is working very good in combination with PinSound.
It works with Remixes and the original Soundpack as well.
And if you want to have different settings, you can do your own setup via PinSound-Studio.

#10559 3 months ago

Its a game changer, makes T2 an A list game

#10560 3 months ago
Quoted from Averell:

An excellet machine with improved Skull, Color DMD, Hunter Killer Ship, PinSound and Shaker.
Hope L8.4 works fine and no scattered pixels at startup?
If you use Color-DMD and you have scattered pixels, I have an update for your to eleminate this issue.

There is a blocky affect on startup but it only lasts a second or so before going off. It doesn't bother me.

#10561 3 months ago

Do I need to get PinSound for the shaker as well? Or are they independent?

#10562 3 months ago
Quoted from AD72:

Lift up the playfield and check the wires to the coil and switch. May have just a broken connection. If the wires look fine, do the coil test and the switch test.

Cable is fine, nothing is lose.
Coil test worked fine. Switch test did nothing, or I was unable to to it correctly, not sure.

What else can it be?
Whenever the ball rolls from the top onto the jet bumper, just nothing happens. Right side as well.

#10563 3 months ago
Quoted from pbot:

- Which lens to prefer: Frosted or Clear?
- Cool White, Sunlight, Warm White? Can't decide.
- Use only white LEDs for everything, or do white as well as red, blue etc. for the playfield?
Any hints - or photos? - based on your experiences?

My preferences, everyone has their own when it comes to LEDs:

Clear under transparent inserts (red, ice blue, and green under red, blue, green inserts, white under all else) and frosted under inserts that are completely covered by printing, or other non-transparent inserts (not sure if T2 has any of these). The ice blue shines with a brighter blue color than standard blue, which is a very deep blue, which looks too dark to me; like when you see the bright reds, yellows, greens on Christmas lights, then the blue ones look very deep/dark in comparison.

Incandescent #47's for all playfield GI. Old school but I just prefer they way they look. 2SMD frosted (to diffuse the light) warm whites behind the translite. I think I stuck a couple of cool white 2SMD's behind the hunter/killer's spotlights, but Arnie's face should def be warm whites.

I like an 80s/90s pin to look like it's from the 80s/90s, just with the more saturated colors of LED's behind the inserts and the translite a little brighter.

#10564 3 months ago

Yes, that is the issue I'm talking about.
It's a bug in the Color DMD software.
I have an updated file to fix that.
Even if you play with L8.4 you should update Color-DMD for improved animations and enhanced graphics content for Profantiy mode.
Older version of Color DMD Rom don't support that content!

#10565 3 months ago

Can someone please make a picture of the power board with a close up if J120 and J121.
I need the wiring colour for both but someone hacked the molex, it's a mess.... and I'm not sure if the stupid new wiring connects to the correct colours...
Would be great, thanx in advance!

Schermafbeelding 2023-11-24 om 15.28.28 (resized).pngSchermafbeelding 2023-11-24 om 15.28.28 (resized).png
#10566 3 months ago
Quoted from JvdS:

Can someone please make a picture of the power board with a close up if J120 and J121.
I need the wiring colour for both but someone hacked the molex, it's a mess.... and I'm not sure if the stupid new wiring connects to the correct colours...
Would be great, thanx in advance!
[quoted image]

Time to read the schematic I think.

#10567 3 months ago
Quoted from Averell:

Yes, that is the issue I'm talking about.
It's a bug in the Color DMD software.
I have an updated file to fix that.
Even if you play with L8.4 you should update Color-DMD for improved animations and enhanced graphics content for Profantiy mode.
Older version of Color DMD Rom don't support that content!

Ok, please send it across

#10568 3 months ago

Everyone who's interested in this bug fix can send me his Email.

#10569 3 months ago
Quoted from JvdS:

Can someone please make a picture of the power board with a close up if J120 and J121.
I need the wiring colour for both but someone hacked the molex, it's a mess.... and I'm not sure if the stupid new wiring connects to the correct colours...
Would be great, thanx in advance!
[quoted image]

From page 3-9 of the manual.
Screenshot_20231125-085618 (resized).pngScreenshot_20231125-085618 (resized).png

#10570 3 months ago

Hey Everyone,

I finally got through all the pages in this forum. Lot's of great info for mods, repairs, and more. I went through my machine and cleared most of the playfield for cleaning. I noticed the skull VUK was missing the plastic cap. The game still pushes a single ball up the wireform with no trouble. Today, my youngest was playing a game and got 2 balls stuck over the VUK. It was having trouble pushing both balls up the wireform. Before getting to this point, I made sure to add 2.5" cube of foam. This prevented balls from entering the lower portion of skull. After reading about the proper replacement of VUK plunger assembly with roll pin, I went to Ministry of Pinball. Unfortunately, it looks like they've been closed for some time. I went ahead and ordered the less-desired slip-fit Marco plunger (and new cap with roll pin). I'm not sure this is enough to temporarily repair my VUK based on the attached pic. I plan to remove the assembly, desoldering wires from coil lugs in the process. I appreciate any tips you guys have on keeping the slip-fit plunger from separating/failing. It just doesn't look like I have any other options at this time, other than leaving my broken assembly as-is.

I appreciate the support!

20231126_134046 (resized).jpg20231126_134046 (resized).jpg
#10571 3 months ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

From page 3-9 of the manual.

Manual is mostly correct. The order of the wire colors is the same across all WPC machines. The usage pattern is not the same but rather machine specific.

wpc_gi_wire_colors.jpgwpc_gi_wire_colors.jpg

#10572 3 months ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

From page 3-9 of the manual.
[quoted image]

Quoted from DumbAss:

Manual is mostly correct. The order of the wire colors is the same across all WPC machines. The usage pattern is not the same but rather machine specific.
[quoted image]

Thanx!

#10573 3 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

I appreciate any tips you guys have on keeping the slip-fit plunger from separating/failing

while waiting for ministry of pinball to reopen:

Drill a 3/32" to 1/8" hole thru the plunger and plastic end piece.

Press a 1/8" roll pin thru the hole. Grind off any excess.

It will hold forever.

I did this on mine to get it to match the original.

Later I got the Ministry of pinball part as its WAY superior, but really the one marco sells just needs to be pinned.

Also put a little silicone oil on the end cap to make sure it operates freely.

#10574 3 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

I plan to remove the assembly, desoldering wires from coil lugs in the process

Get used to molexing assemblies instead of unsoldering them.

The skull plunger assembly is a BITCH to work on, Molex it and NEVER look back.

Molexing mechs as you work on them is SUPER important and will change your life.

See my posts on this plunger repair please.

If you have questions of how to start, PM me or ask here and Ill post links and instructions as I always do.

#10575 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

while waiting for ministry of pinball to reopen:
Drill a 3/32" to 1/8" hole thru the plunger and plastic end piece.
Press a 1/8" roll pin thru the hole. Grind off any excess.
It will hold forever.
I did this on mine to get it to match the original.
Later I got the Ministry of pinball part as its WAY superior, but really the one marco sells just needs to be pinned.
Also put a little silicone oil on the end cap to make sure it operates freely.

Thanks, pinballinreno! I like the molex idea. Added to the list of things to do.

#10576 3 months ago

I must have shorted the wires to the single drop target when I was working on the machine. I noticed a nick in one of the wires and it must have shorted out. The coil went melty. Sleeve completely melted. I put in a new coil but still no actuation when I run through the coil test. I attached a multimeter and got no voltage when doing the repeat coil test. I am afraid to go look at the power board. I may have shorted a fet. Thoughts? Which fet is it on the board and what type?

IMG_0239 (resized).jpegIMG_0239 (resized).jpegIMG_0242 (resized).jpegIMG_0242 (resized).jpegIMG_0243 (resized).jpegIMG_0243 (resized).jpeg
#10577 3 months ago
Quoted from AD72:

I must have shorted the wires to the single drop target when I was working on the machine. I noticed a nick in one of the wires and it must have shorted out. The coil went melty. Sleeve completely melted. I put in a new coil but still no actuation when I run through the coil test. I attached a multimeter and got no voltage when doing the repeat coil test. I am afraid to go look at the power board. I may have shorted a fet. Thoughts? Which fet is it on the board and what type?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Check fuse F-103 before anything else. It might be an easy fix.

The drop target has 2 coils on it:

One for raising it, and a little one for knocking it down.

Q20 is the transistor for resetting it (big coil).

Q52 is for the little coil that Knocks it down.

Sadly, sometimes when a coil is shorted, it does kill the transistor associated with it.

Its not too hard of a fix though.

Replace the both pre-driver and the driver transistor as a pair if that is the only problem. Sometimes you have to replace the resistor and maybe a diode to shotgun the circuit if its burned to a crisp.

The numbers are on the transistors and they might be listed in the manual on the driver board page.

Marco sells them as well as Newark electronics.

#10578 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

while waiting for ministry of pinball to reopen:
Drill a 3/32" to 1/8" hole thru the plunger and plastic end piece.
Press a 1/8" roll pin thru the hole. Grind off any excess.
It will hold forever.
I did this on mine to get it to match the original.
Later I got the Ministry of pinball part as its WAY superior, but really the one marco sells just needs to be pinned.
Also put a little silicone oil on the end cap to make sure it operates freely.

I just realized, after ordering a new skull VUK plunger assembly with cap and pin dowels, that I have 2 spare Data East Batman VUK assemblies. I took apart the DE VUK assembly and noticed how similar the parts were made. I'll have to use the white cap since the black cap inner diameter is too small to fit over the plastic part of the plunger shaft. Fortunately,the other white cap (not pictured) does not have worn-out fins. This DE VUK has that smaller spring that pushes the cap back in place while no ball is present. Also, the metal and plastic pieces are already pinned together. I'll have to give this a chance and maybe it will work just as good as the original.

20231201_084225 (resized).jpg20231201_084225 (resized).jpg
#10579 3 months ago

Is it possible for all 4 control buttons not to work behind the coin door? I ordered a new set from Marco but was wondering why all didn't register. Thanks

#10580 3 months ago

What issues did you have with them before you replace them?

#10581 3 months ago

I had a problems with my volume minus switch which turned out to be a computer chip issues
( battery acid damage)

#10582 3 months ago

All of sudden inserting a coin does nothing & when i press any of the buttons... nothing happens. No sounds & nothing registers.

#10583 3 months ago

That does sound odd just speculation. But maybe try Reconnecting the ribbon Cables and maybe doing a factory reset?

#10584 3 months ago
Quoted from Power87:

That does sound odd just speculation. But maybe try Reconnecting the ribbon Cables and maybe doing a factory reset?

Ok, good idea. I'll try that when I get home in a hour.

#10585 88 days ago
Quoted from durgee7:

I just realized, after ordering a new skull VUK plunger assembly with cap and pin dowels, that I have 2 spare Data East Batman VUK assemblies. I took apart the DE VUK assembly and noticed how similar the parts were made. I'll have to use the white cap since the black cap inner diameter is too small to fit over the plastic part of the plunger shaft. Fortunately,the other white cap (not pictured) does not have worn-out fins. This DE VUK has that smaller spring that pushes the cap back in place while no ball is present. Also, the metal and plastic pieces are already pinned together. I'll have to give this a chance and maybe it will work just as good as the original.
[quoted image]

The Data East VUK plunger assembly with cap has been tested and is working well. I'm just posting as an alternative for a pre-pinned shaft (with cap spring). I'll make sure to update if anything fails with the assembly.

20231206_074730 (resized).jpg20231206_074730 (resized).jpg

#10586 88 days ago
Quoted from durgee7:

The Data East VUK plunger assembly with cap has been tested and is working well. I'm just posting as an alternative for a pre-pinned shaft (with cap spring). I'll make sure to update if anything fails with the assembly.
[quoted image]

It looks "stock" and should work just fine.

#10587 86 days ago

Woo-hoo looks like the Buthamburg playfields are about to ship. Hopefully I will have a holidays project. (I am off of work the last 2 weeks of Dec)

#10588 86 days ago

Does anyone know if the Hunter Killer ship mod (by @avo) is still available to buy?

Thanks.

#10590 85 days ago

I looked in the manual & couldn't find the part numbers for the T2 flipper button contact assembly. (both sides). Anyone know where I'd look? Thanks

#10591 85 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I looked in the manual & couldn't find the part numbers for the T2 flipper button contact assembly. (both sides). Anyone know where I'd look? Thanks

Are you looking for the cabinet switches?

Page 2-37 in the manual, 1st 2 lines.

switch:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-10A-48

the complete assembly:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-9990-1

But Marco is out, you can however just build one up from parts

or Pinball Wizard claims to have them:

https://www.thepinballwizard.net/cabinet-parts/flipper-button-switch-assembly-single-contact-high-voltage-a-9990-1/

#10592 85 days ago

I have a problem. Found this (picture) in my cabinet. I don't know where it belongs....
Anybody knows? I looked in the manual too, but could not find this part....

Schermafbeelding 2023-12-09 om 22.23.29 (resized).pngSchermafbeelding 2023-12-09 om 22.23.29 (resized).png
#10593 84 days ago
Quoted from JvdS:

I have a problem. Found this (picture) in my cabinet. I don't know where it belongs....
Anybody knows? I looked in the manual too, but could not find this part....
[quoted image]

That's just the bracket that holds the prop when when it's not propping up the playfield. Screws to the inside right cabinet, look and you should find the two holes.

#10594 84 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

That's just the bracket that holds the prop when when it's not propping up the playfield. Screws to the inside right cabinet, look and you should find the two holes.

It screws into the little wooden block.

#10595 84 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

That's just the bracket that holds the prop when when it's not propping up the playfield. Screws to the inside right cabinet, look and you should find the two holes.

Ok, I will check it, thank you a lot!

#10596 84 days ago

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#10597 83 days ago
Quoted from dinot:

Woo-hoo looks like the Buthamburg playfields are about to ship. Hopefully I will have a holidays project. (I am off of work the last 2 weeks of Dec)

+1
Peter told me, they will start shipping this week!

For me it is the first time that I replace a playfield.
What are you doing in the area where mylar is stuck today? Leave it like that or put on mylar again?
And can the playfield be played immediately or does the clear coat still need to harden?

#10598 82 days ago

Anybody

Quoted from Gnassel:

+1
Peter told me, they will start shipping this week!
For me it is the first time that I replace a playfield.
What are you doing in the area where mylar is stuck today? Leave it like that or put on mylar again?
And can the playfield be played immediately or does the clear coat still need to harden?

I just paid for mine the other day. If it’s going to be in a home use environment you shouldn’t need Mylar. Just keep it clean and you should never have to worry. A lot of people say you should wait and let the wood acclimate before putting it in since the wood is usually pretty new

#10599 82 days ago

My suggestion is to use Mylar in that area where the cannon fires the ball to the targets and where the balls fall off the wire ramp.
And don't forget the Cliffy's!

#10600 82 days ago
Quoted from Averell:

My suggestion is to use Mylar in that area where the cannon fires the ball to the targets and where the balls fall off the wire ramp.
And don't forget the Cliffy's!

ALWAYS mylar the "pops and drops".

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