(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

11 years ago


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#10151 11 months ago

The bad, missing, burnt, glue covered connectors need replacing.

I would trade out the board with a spare, and start cleaning it up or send it out for service.

You can change out the connectors with little or no expertise, they are simple.

Newark has pretty much everything you need at really low prices.

I have seen worse. It looks worse than it really is in most cases.

#10152 11 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: T2 GI wiring noted in the manual is a bit off. I had to pencil in the correct wire locations.

Agreed. The manual is clearly incorrect and inconsistent.

t2_gi_table.jpgt2_gi_table.jpgt2_gi_wiring.jpgt2_gi_wiring.jpg

Williams did indeed make changes without notice. I'm betting the BRN and ORG strings feed the insert top and bottom. If I recall correctly, it's probably the GRN string that feeds the CPU lamps.

Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

J120 has nothing plugged in and looks like the last 2-4 pins in the right are burnt.

No connector = no lamps. This is almost certainly the reason why you have no "top insert" and "bottom insert". The wires are somewhere there. They have to be. You need to search for them or take wider area images and post them.

Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

J114 looks dark as if it got heated. The below that is a goopy mess!!

The heat damage to J114 is from J115, the header that is covered with all that hot glue. The wires are probably soldered directly to the board and "sealed" with the hot glue. Seen this before. This is the transformer secondary for the GI.

Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

Correction! A good one.
Top and bottom GI insert lights up!

Did you find the connector? That pin at J120-1 seems to be missing so I'm not sure how the BRN string is even working.

#10153 11 months ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

I’m no expert, not sure what the bell is going on here!
J120 has nothing plugged in and looks like the last 2-4 pins in the right are burnt. J114 looks dark as if it got heated. The below that is a goopy mess!![quoted image]

That pic is one for the thread "...worst hack ever..." - poor J115
I hope you did not create that

#10154 11 months ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

J120 has nothing plugged in and looks like the last 2-4 pins in the right are burnt.

Just so you’re aware J120 and J121 are wired together - so you can plug the cable into either.

https://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/PDF%20Pinball%20Misc/Williams%20WPC%20Schematic%20manual.pdf

40B3927D-5E5E-48D9-B4FF-508355A8C2B3 (resized).jpeg40B3927D-5E5E-48D9-B4FF-508355A8C2B3 (resized).jpeg
#10155 11 months ago

Finally replaced my ColorDMD with a Pin2DMD, definitely worth the swap.

IMG_7980 (resized).jpegIMG_7980 (resized).jpeg
#10156 11 months ago
Quoted from ThatGuyBo:

Finally replaced my ColorDMD with a Pin2DMD, definitely worth the swap.
[quoted image]

What are the differences?

I would like to see a side-by-side comparison.

#10157 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What are the differences?
I would like to see a side-by-side comparison.

It’s double the pixel(led) count and the same size as the CGC HD displays.

#10158 11 months ago
Quoted from ThatGuyBo:

Finally replaced my ColorDMD with a Pin2DMD, definitely worth the swap.
[quoted image]

Wow! That’s cool! You went with the bigger one? Cool!!

#10159 11 months ago
Quoted from tripplett:

Just so you’re aware J120 and J121 are wired together - so you can plug the cable into either.
https://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/PDF%20Pinball%20Misc/Williams%20WPC%20Schematic%20manual.pdf
[quoted image]

Ok!
So the fact that my j120 is empty is normal?
Thanks!

#10160 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What are the differences?
I would like to see a side-by-side comparison.

Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

Wow! That’s cool! You went with the bigger one? Cool!!

Here’s a comparison.

IMG_8002 (resized).jpegIMG_8002 (resized).jpegIMG_8003 (resized).jpegIMG_8003 (resized).jpeg
#10161 11 months ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

So the fact that my j120 is empty is normal?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/204#post-7586250

I guess I'll just stop reading this club thread and trying to post help seeing as it is plainly ignored.

#10162 11 months ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/204#post-7586250
I guess I'll just stop reading this club thread and trying to post help seeing as it is plainly ignored.

My bad! Didn’t read all the way up.
All the back box light are working. Top and bottom string. Only GI that is not working is the cpu string.

#10163 11 months ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

All the back box light are working. Top and bottom string.

So what changed to cause it to work? You didn't specify what happened. I can't see what's in front of you.

Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

Only GI that is not working is the cpu string.

This is likely to be the GRN/WHT-GRN string. Check the lamp board. It should have a GRN and WHT-GRN wire connected to it. I don't have a machine in front of me so you will need to verify that.

Once you've identified the string then check the VAC across the pins for the GRN and WHT-GRN wire. You can check this at J120 if there is no connector. Otherwise, you can pull a connector off and check the VAC across the pins. The VAC is nominally 5.9VAC or 6.3VAC. It just needs to be in that range. Do this when NOT in the GI test as that will cause the GI to dim depending on which test and this will affect the VAC.

If there is no VAC then you will need to check the VAC for the pins that deliver the voltage from the transformer secondary. That is J115. Yes. The header with the hot glue.

#10164 11 months ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

So what changed to cause it to work? You didn't specify what happened. I can't see what's in front of you.

This is likely to be the GRN/WHT-GRN string. Check the lamp board. It should have a GRN and WHT-GRN wire connected to it. I don't have a machine in front of me so you will need to verify that.
Once you've identified the string then check the VAC across the pins for the GRN and WHT-GRN wire. You can check this at J120 if there is no connector. Otherwise, you can pull a connector off and check the VAC across the pins. The VAC is nominally 5.9VAC or 6.3VAC. It just needs to be in that range. Do this when NOT in the GI test as that will cause the GI to dim depending on which test and this will affect the VAC.
If there is no VAC then you will need to check the VAC for the pins that deliver the voltage from the transformer secondary. That is J115. Yes. The header with the hot glue.

Ok! The top and bottom string in the back box always worked. I had my new mirrored back glass off as it was not fitting correctly with the stock plastics around it. I removed my back glass and put a towel over the back box to reduce the glare on the playfield glass while I waited for new plastics to arrive to fit it correctly, I didn’t even notice in the test it was going on and off. So all good there!

I’ll check the rest tomorrow!

Thanks again!

Richard

#10165 11 months ago
Quoted from ThatGuyBo:

Here’s a comparison.[quoted image][quoted image]

That looks great!!!
What site did you buy it from?

#10166 11 months ago
Quoted from ThatGuyBo:

Here’s a comparison.[quoted image][quoted image]

That looks wonderful!

#10167 11 months ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

Ok! The top and bottom string in the back box always worked. I had my new mirrored back glass off as it was not fitting correctly with the stock plastics around it. I removed my back glass and put a towel over the back box to reduce the glare on the playfield glass while I waited for new plastics to arrive to fit it correctly, I didn’t even notice in the test it was going on and off. So all good there!
I’ll check the rest tomorrow!
Thanks again!
Richard

The CPU 4 lamp board might be a burned or loose connector in the backbox, its on the GI circuit.

I had to replace the connector on the 4 lamp board and reflow the header on it.

#10168 11 months ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

Ok!
So the fact that my j120 is empty is normal?
Thanks!

J120 and j121 are tied together, so essentially they are the same connector.

#10169 11 months ago
Quoted from ThatGuyBo:

Here’s a comparison.[quoted image][quoted image]

Can you show a pic with the machine off? How did you fit the display in? No factory display bezel?

#10170 11 months ago
Quoted from tripplett:

Can you show a pic with the machine off? How did you fit the display in? No factory display bezel?

I got mine from here:
https://retrocity.com.au/

It came with speakers and a new metal speaker panel with the color dmd preinstalled.
HDPanelLED (resized).jpgHDPanelLED (resized).jpg

Stumbler sells them as well. I think he also includes bezel art that is redone to fit the wider panels.

https://stumblorpinball.com/collections/hd-pin2dmd

#10171 11 months ago
Quoted from docquest:

I got mine from here:
https://retrocity.com.au/
It came with speakers and a new metal speaker panel with the color dmd preinstalled.
[quoted image]
Stumbler sells them as well. I think he also includes bezel art that is redone to fit the wider panels.
https://stumblorpinball.com/collections/hd-pin2dmd

Yup, I've ordered from both, the Retrocity metal panel was much nicer than I had expected.
Stumblor uses CNC'd Plywood for the panels and has quite a few game specific art packages available.

#10172 11 months ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

So what changed to cause it to work? You didn't specify what happened. I can't see what's in front of you.

This is likely to be the GRN/WHT-GRN string. Check the lamp board. It should have a GRN and WHT-GRN wire connected to it. I don't have a machine in front of me so you will need to verify that.
Once you've identified the string then check the VAC across the pins for the GRN and WHT-GRN wire. You can check this at J120 if there is no connector. Otherwise, you can pull a connector off and check the VAC across the pins. The VAC is nominally 5.9VAC or 6.3VAC. It just needs to be in that range. Do this when NOT in the GI test as that will cause the GI to dim depending on which test and this will affect the VAC.
If there is no VAC then you will need to check the VAC for the pins that deliver the voltage from the transformer secondary. That is J115. Yes. The header with the hot glue.

I had a similar issue once with the CPU lights... They are in fact on their own GI circuit, I replaced my GI header and they stopped working, as did half the backbox insert lights.
Upon reinspection of my work, it turned out that when I flowed the solder from the back of the board, it did not flow through to the pads on the front. You cannot see this because of the white plastic base on the front. so reflowing the pins with a tad more solder resolved the problems.

#10173 11 months ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Upon reinspection of my work, it turned out that when I flowed the solder from the back of the board, it did not flow through to the pads on the front.

Usually there’s a through board barrel connecting the top and bottom pads. Perhaps it was damaged. Look up a “solder stitch” for a good solution to that problem.

#10174 11 months ago
Quoted from docquest:

I got mine from here:
https://retrocity.com.au/
It came with speakers and a new metal speaker panel with the color dmd preinstalled.
[quoted image]
Stumbler sells them as well. I think he also includes bezel art that is redone to fit the wider panels.
https://stumblorpinball.com/collections/hd-pin2dmd

+1 for a Stumblor as well. He supplied one for my TAF, and it looks awesome.

#10175 11 months ago

Love T2. Normally not a fan of coloured GI but for T2 I make an exception with the ice blue! New Decals, 2k playfield… just how I like it.- The Austrian Oak Arnie - T2 always has a place in my home here in Austria.

Regards Darryl.

0C551BBF-B124-4336-9E6E-8794E0FCBC6F (resized).jpeg0C551BBF-B124-4336-9E6E-8794E0FCBC6F (resized).jpeg50E28491-F640-416A-BC21-A2B91F6EF578 (resized).jpeg50E28491-F640-416A-BC21-A2B91F6EF578 (resized).jpeg7A746BD1-FD92-4907-90F6-F8969BA0BC52 (resized).jpeg7A746BD1-FD92-4907-90F6-F8969BA0BC52 (resized).jpeg996B33FA-22F1-460B-918B-65379A01804E (resized).jpeg996B33FA-22F1-460B-918B-65379A01804E (resized).jpegC12CE037-6564-46FD-91E8-EB782D8D0411 (resized).jpegC12CE037-6564-46FD-91E8-EB782D8D0411 (resized).jpegCB278A80-B838-4C31-B02E-AC163405CA78 (resized).jpegCB278A80-B838-4C31-B02E-AC163405CA78 (resized).jpeg
#10176 11 months ago

Hello,

I would like to pronounce that L8-4 Game Rom is nearly finished.
We left the testing period and now we are working on the documentation.
Next I try to get in contact with Jay from IPDB to upload all necessary files for public use.
Don't be fooled by offers to buy. This is not an officially approved PPS product.
Please note, there's no commercial intention, we just want to make T2 pinball machine better.

regards
Averell

#10177 11 months ago
Quoted from Averell:

Hello,
I would like to pronounce that L8-4 Game Rom is nearly finished.
We left the testing period and now we are working on the documentation.
Next I try to get in contact with Jay from IPDB to upload all necessary files for public use.
Don't be fooled by offers to buy. This is not an officially approved PPS product.
Please note, there's no commercial intention, we just want to make T2 pinball machine better.
regards
Averell

Awesome. I was trying to get some things I found odd with 8.3 but I see I probably waited too long. Hopefully one or more of these are bugs or features fixed in 8.4.

1) Just launched the ball and within seconds hit the kickback. Auto Fire ball save was still flashing. Machine took away the kickback. In my opinion this shouldn’t happen while Auto Fire is flashing. However hitting kick back so fast in a game is very rare.

2) My machine routinely goes SDTM on the hunter seeker cannon shot. Many times the Auto Fire (ball save) is flashing and the machine will save the ball. On the jackpot shot during multiball however it doesn’t save the ball.

3) there was another cannon shot that required 4 shots for multiball (4 lights lit) that went down the middle. I don’t recall if auto fire was lit but I think it was.

All of these seemed opposite of what should have happened. Also I believe these were happening on 8.0 (my prior version) when I first got the game a year ago.

#10178 11 months ago

We found and fixed a lot of issues and built in some adjustments for better gameplay.
The new changelog will describe all changes we made.

#10179 11 months ago

@trippled

we move back to the drawing board to investigate your description of possibly remaining issues.
If you can reproduce any of these issues, please send a detailed description about settings and what happend.
This will help us a lot...

#10180 11 months ago
Quoted from Averell:

@trippled
we move back to the drawing board to investigate your description of possibly remaining issues.
If you can reproduce any of these issues, please send a detailed description about settings and what happend.
This will help us a lot...

I’ll pull the glass and try to record some of them tomorrow for you.

#10181 11 months ago
Quoted from tripplett:

I’ll pull the glass, set up some scenarios, and try and record some of them tomorrow for you.

#10182 11 months ago
Quoted from Averell:

@trippled
we move back to the drawing board to investigate your description of possibly remaining issues.
If you can reproduce any of these issues, please send a detailed description about settings and what happend.
This will help us a lot...

1) Ok replicating the kickback is easy. Just hit the kickback in the first few seconds of a ball while the ball save is flashing. Now it was probably never designed to not take the kickback away, however newer Stern games like my Star Trek Premium don’t take the kickback from you if you hit it in the first few seconds of a ball while ball save is lit/flashing. I’d be fine if you want to kick this one down the road or just ignore it. It’s rare I can get to the kickback before ball save is gone however if you are allowing us to adjust the ball save longer then it becomes more apparent.

2) the multiball jackpot shot issue may just be a bad coding of the lights in the game. Here’s the setup…
Trigger multiball then lock a ball into the Datacenter lock and the skull. Drain he other ball.
Hit the jackpot then immediately drain the Datacenter ball. The Auto Fire ball lock will be flashing.

When I played the video back of #2 I noticed the light sequence is rolling up and down all the playfield lights, including Auto Fire. To a player that isn’t paying attention and JUST watching the balls all they see is their ball drained and Auto Fire was flashing. However this is just bad light programming in my opinion. The Auto Fire hot dog light should have been excluded from the jackpot light show.

I’ll try to attach the video for #2 - Jackpot light show at 12 seconds fools players into thinking ball save is active. I apologize in advance for portrait…

#10183 11 months ago

Thanks for your description.

1) That's exactly the point, it's the same with all games of this generation and later. We're not going to change that from the process. For instance you will find that behaviour at The Getaway, too.

2) The problem you're reporting is actually the light show that takes place when jackpot is scored. Is it really a problem? Is game play diminished because the autofire lamp flashes as part of the jackpot fanfare? If we were to remove that flasher from the award then we need to ensure it doesn't flash during any of the other awards also. What do you think?

#10184 11 months ago
Quoted from Averell:

Thanks for your description.
1) That's exactly the point, it's the same with all games of this generation and later. We're not going to change that from the process. For instance you will find that behaviour at The Getaway, too.
2) The problem you're reporting is actually the light show that takes place when jackpot is scored. Is it really a problem? Is game play diminished because the autofire lamp flashes as part of the jackpot fanfare? If we were to remove that flasher from the award then we need to ensure it doesn't flash during any of the other awards also. What do you think?

1) I agree. More of an observation to myself as a new-ish 1 yr pinball owner.
2) Yep, I agree with you. It wasn't till I took the video that I realized it was just the Jackpot light show. Now I'm wondering how many other games do that.

But as far as I'm concerned these two aren't an issue. Ship it!

#10185 11 months ago

OK, thank you for the tips and understanding.
We will move on with the documentation.

#10186 11 months ago

Installed Pinball Lifes bright eye mod and also some JJP invisa glass from Pinball life.

284FC0BA-1356-4C37-A163-343C44910B3B (resized).jpeg284FC0BA-1356-4C37-A163-343C44910B3B (resized).jpeg7A84BDBF-F08B-4A34-8216-64968EB544AA (resized).jpeg7A84BDBF-F08B-4A34-8216-64968EB544AA (resized).jpeg
#10187 11 months ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

Installed Pinball Lifes bright eye mod and also some JJP invisa glass from Pinball life.
[quoted image][quoted image]

AMAZING LOOKING!

I just put Invisiglass on my CCrLE.

Once you have it on a game, theres no going back

You can easily cover sidewall scuffs with Rustoleum satin black sprayed on a paper towel and rubbed on.

Oil based black Sharpie markers work really well too.
Degloss them with a paper towel just before they dry and lightly rub over them to "feather" in the paint.

Between the Rustoleum and the paint marker, you can do a VERY acceptible touch up.

I have even filled blown out Head corners with bondo, sanded it flat and touched them up with this method without even using primer..

On a primarily black cabinet, its easy to touch up.

I have even lightly sprayed Rustoleum satin black on a sidewall with the playfield still in the game.

I just put a beach towel down to completely cover the playfield.

Any over-spray on the stainless is easily wiped off with lacquer thinner or naptha.

TONS of easy touch ups you can do to improve the look of a game.

#10188 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

AMAZING LOOKING!
I just put Invisiglass on my CCrLE.
Once you have it on a game, theres no going back
You can easily cover sidewall scuffs with Rustoleum satin black sprayed on a paper towel and rubbed on.
Oil based black Sharpie markers work really well too.
Degloss them with a paper towel just before they dry and lightly rub over them to "feather" in the paint.
Between the Rustoleum and the paint marker, you can do a VERY acceptible touch up.
I have even filled blown out Head corners with bondo, sanded it flat and touched them up with this method without even using primer..
On a primarily black cabinet, its easy to touch up.
I have even lightly sprayed Rustoleum satin black on a sidewall with the playfield still in the game.
I just put a beach towel down to completely cover the playfield.
Any over-spray on the stainless is easily wiped off with lacquer thinner or naptha.
TONS of easy touch ups you can do to improve the look of a game.

Thanks!!
Has anyone used these decal before:

FC254448-47A3-4EC6-994D-4452C98664F2 (resized).pngFC254448-47A3-4EC6-994D-4452C98664F2 (resized).png
#10189 11 months ago

For the absolute best:

Im going to order everything from Buthamburg.

Playfield, plastics, and decals.

Thay have it all and of extremely high quality.

Plus their prices are low for exceptional work.

https://www.buthamburg.de/en/decals/terminator-2-cabinet-decal-set

Im on the wait list for the upcoming playfield release, its gonna be EPIC !

Ill buy everything at the same time.

#10190 11 months ago

Playfield, Plastics and Decals from BUT are official licenced parts and the best on the market.

#10191 11 months ago

To add to the Bathumburg love, EVERY SINGLE PIECE they reproduce is silkscreened, matched to the original screens, and matched to the original colors. I am on the list for T2 when they rerun the PF and Cabinet Decals. Love my NGG PF and T2 Plastics from them.

Digital/Direct Prints do not currently allow for Fluorescent Art (UV Reactive) which is present throughout T2.

#10192 11 months ago

Hello,

I can tell that Game Rom L8-4 is finished.

We try to upload to IPDB as soon as possible.
I still have to rearrange the current manual and enhance section "A2 Adjustments".

We like to thank all beta-testers and all the people that have been involved for the last months.

Rest assured, this is the best Game Rom ever and makes T2 even better and more interesting to play.

Enjoy and have fun

#10193 11 months ago
Quoted from Averell:

Hello,
I can tell that Game Rom L8-4 is finished.
We try to upload to IPDB as soon as possible.
I still have to rearrange the current manual and enhance section "A2 Adjustments".
We like to thank all beta-testers and all the people that have been involved for the last months.
Rest assured, this is the best Game Rom ever and makes T2 even better and more interesting to play.
Enjoy and have fun

Cool! I don’t have a rom burner. Can I order a chip?
Thanks!
Richard

#10194 11 months ago

Not from me... you need the file and a friend who can burn the rom.

#10195 11 months ago

Here's an overview about the new L8.4 Game Rom

The L8.4 update initially was intended to be a small update mainly focused on the last few bugs that have been reported in various online forums. As work proceeded and additional bugs were added to the L8.4 schedule, the L8.4 became more complicated as the L-8 code was more deeply investigated especially during the analysis into the 255-Hits issue, and the PAPA lost super jackpot issue. Eventually we determined the nature of the bugs, were able to reproduce the problems in a controlled environment, and developed fixes where needed for the various coding issues.
After bugs were fixed, some time was spent adding new player-requested enhancements to the L8.4. One complaint was that the super jackpot is too predictable. Players can easily get super jackpot solely based on the position of the cannon during its swing. For L8.4 a new “Super Jackpot” adjustment was added to provide different behaviors in the 5-bank target lamp movements during super jackpot, thus adding to the challenge and excitement of game play. In order to make game play fair, the new super jackpot lamp behaviors also ensure that all players in a multi-player game get to have the identical experience, so that one player doesn’t get a more easier super jackpot attempt than another.
Since the PAPA super jackpot bug is considered a major reason that T2 was not a preferred tournament game, and since the bug is now deemed as fixed, the L8.4 efforts also focused on how the game behaves when Tournament Mode is enabled. With the L8.4 super jackpot code to give all players the same experience for new super jackpot attempts, it made sense to extend the idea into Tournament Mode for all game features so that all players in a multi-player game get the same experience, leveling the playing field, or so to speak. For L8.4 when game is in tournament mode, all players get the same database awards, video modes, 5-bank patterns for multiball and 5-bank lamp for jackpot.
Since a lot of tournaments forbid play of extra balls, initial consideration was given to also block extra balls when Tournament Mode is enabled however it was later noticed that an existing adjustment is already present. The “Max E.B. Count” adjustment can be set for no extra balls. It was noticed, however, when the game is set this way, the game still teases the player with extra ball lit and animations (while never actually giving it to the player) so L8.4 updates game behavior when the setting is for no extra balls. No longer will the extra ball be lit or its animation be shown. The idea is that when setting a game up for tournament mode, the operator should also set “Max E.B. Count” to no extra balls.
Lastly, for L8.4 some fun was added to attract mode, allowing prospective players to interact with the game during attract mode similar to Indiana Jones. The gun trigger can be pulled to trigger some sound effects and the start-button can also play some sounds (when zero or fractional credits). Like IJ, there is a quiet period involved to prevent overuse of this feature.
At 571 hours logged into L8.4 engineering efforts and countless hours by our community of beta testers, we are pleased to provide the pinball community with L8.4, setting a new standard for code quality, player experience and tournament mode action!

#10196 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

For the absolute best:
Im going to order everything from Buthamburg.
Playfield, plastics, and decals.
Thay have it all and of extremely high quality.
Plus their prices are low for exceptional work.
https://www.buthamburg.de/en/decals/terminator-2-cabinet-decal-set
Im on the wait list for the upcoming playfield release, its gonna be EPIC !
Ill buy everything at the same time.

Thanks guys! He doesn’t have the decals in stock I don’t think.
I’m on the playfield list as well!

#10197 11 months ago

Hello,

please find attached the enhanced manual for T2.
There's a new section for the new A2 Adjustments starting on page 37.

Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Manual - Update.pdfWilliams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Manual - Update.pdf

#10198 11 months ago
Quoted from Averell:

Not from me... you need the file and a friend who can burn the rom.

I have a friend! Where can he get it?
Thanks for all your hard work!!

Richard

#10199 11 months ago

I am checking IPDB every so often to see if 8.4 gets posted. Then I will buy it from a ROM seller.

#10200 11 months ago
Quoted from dinot:

I am checking IPDB every so often to see if 8.4 gets posted. Then I will buy it from a ROM seller.

you can email the files to Astil gaming and he will burn your ROMS too.
He might already have them once they are posted.

https://www.pinballrom.com/

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