This all sound so cool!
I’m hoping to get a T2 in the next few weeks!

Yes, it's that cool.
In Mai or June we will release Game Rom L8.4 with some more features, bugfixes and an improved tournament mode.

That is sweet, I'm surprised I haven't seen this mod yet. Question, it looks like the wires stick out into the Escape Route orbit shot a bit when the ship swings fully out. Is there ever a time when you can get the ball to the flipper while the ship is 'hunting' and hit those wires?

No, this is how the wiring should guided at the 5 bank targets.

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Here we go:

https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/file/397-t2_enhanced_profanity_averell_v23zip/

Black sheathing over the wires would look cool...

Maybe this?

https://www.amazon.com/Besteek-50ft-Expandable-Braided-Sleeving/dp/B07F5G1RNF

I have this hunter killer ship from NECA. They are pretty expensive now but you may still find one somewhere.

Not my video on youtube.

Hey, if it works for you as-is, that's great. Personally, I couldn't stand the look of T2 with just the LED's, whereas on Jackbot next to it, I didn't mind them so much. Once I installed the LED/OCD board though, I LOVED the way it looked. To each his own!

I think it varies from game to game, and how you perceive it all...

My Taxi runs the LED's so fast it looks bad.

Adding the LEDOCD board is so much better.

Although, now that you mention it, I could slow everything down a bit on my T2 with the LEDOCD board.

I can see that it would be a less frenzied look.

However, with the regular bulbs its quite fast and frenzied and blinks fast.

So, with LED's its about the same IMHO.

The frosted LED's that I like to use do take the edge off the harshness a bit too.

That’s what I used on mine. Not cheap, but definitely a must have mod for T2.

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Your game looks really good!

My T2 came with one of these but it wasn’t installed. The previous owner just included it. It’s kind of heavy. I’m not sure what to do with it so it’s just sitting on a shelf.

Send it to me, Ill pay the postage.

Seriously though, I was happy to get a repro one as mine was missing!

I love the way my game has progressed from badly worn and broken, to super fun to play!

Thanks a lot. I restored it last year. Took a while, but worth it in the end.
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Good Afternoon! I finally got around to installing my new Skull from Dystopic Pinball on my T2, and it's giving me some issues, and I wonder if y'all might give me some advice. I wired the skull into the same connector as the old skull was using. When I turn the game on, the eyes ghost really badly, and some insert lights on the playfield stay lit rather than go in the sequence like they should. When I start a game, the eye's come on bright and fine, however no change with the inserts. There are 4 or 5 inserts on the playfield that do this. If I unplug the skull, everything works as it should as far as the insert lights. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Thanks,
Chris

Sounds like it needs a diode on it or its wired wrong, or you have a bad diode in the lamp matrix.

Generally, multiple lamp activations are due to a lamp wired wrong, or a bad diode.

I pulled apart my cannon assembly and gear box today for some MUCH needed lubrication.

You dont have to actually rip apart the gearbox as the end is open for maintenance.

I flushed it out with Brakleen until the starting gear spun easily and quickly with a finger flick.

It was very, VERY tight from dried grease. All of the gears turn easily with NO resistance after cleaning.

The electric motor also seemed slow and sluggish.

I flushed out the motor with circuit cleaner spray thru its vent cut-out and drained it off.

A lot of black liquid came out, so I flushed it a couple times until it was relatively clean inside.

The motor runs MUCH faster now and doesnt seem to labor.

After reassembly I liberally applied silicone grease to all the gears, shafts and bushings with a Q-tip.

Using a 10v power supply to rotate the gears to get them all lubes up helps immensely.

I pressed new grease into the grease cup on the main shaft.

Running several minutes and applying grease to dry spots that appeared seemed to do the trick

The box runs fast and relatively noise free.

You have an issue with the diode, take a closer look at the wiring schematic for the skull.
I think it's not shown, so you have to look at the lamp matrix.

Thank you guys, I will see what I an find. What's interesting though, I had the Brite Eyes bulbs from Pinballlife in a skull that was in it, and they worked just fine. Problem is I liked the new skull better than the one that was in it and its LED'S are giving me hell. Reversing polarity doesn't help, my friend told me that. But I will start chasing things down and.let you know what I find! Thanks again!

One thing that had annoyed me was the excessive rotational play in the cannon.

In my case the gearbox is tight and not worn out at all!

The keyway in the bushing assembly is also not worn much at all.

However there is room for improvement.

I used a machinist trick and slightly twisted the flat key SLIGHTLY..... with a couple tiny crescent wrenches.

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This took out the play in the bushing shaft and now the cannon has only about 1/4" to 5/16" of rotational play.

I also added back in the missing grommet.

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My cannon is quick and solid with very little play now!

Now I need to get an Avatar

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As Averell said. To add, my Dystopic skull didn't have the diode at all and the LEDs in the skull eyes were causing all sorts of ghosting issues across my lamp matrix. Look at the original skull and solder in a diode like it is on the original. If you don't have a diode, cut the one out from the original and use that.

On seeing how your VUK plunger fell apart.

I noticed this one at ministry of pinball and ordered it:

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/ball-popper-armature-assy-set.html

I like the spring and felt it was needed

It also has the roll pin.

I didnt like the way that the switch had to support the ball as well as there was no way to retract the popper cap without a spring to keep it working properly.

This should be way better.

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My entire right side GI as well as the lane guide lamps were not lighting.

For the record Fuse 108 5A slo-blo was blown.

New fuse and its up and running!

Im continuing on installing LED's in my game.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE ! ! ! !

I did see a slight buzz 0t 60hz flicker in the GI lamps.

Disabling GI dimming seems to have corrected it. I can also add in a couple regular lamps, but havent so far.

Does T2 use any GI dimming in ay of its features?

I havent seen any use of GI dimming so far.

GIOCD anf LEDOCD are always on my mind when I do an LED update.

So far, I havent seen any real need for it, but you never know...

With my gun/cannon working properly, I posted 172 million earlier today to get the Grand Champion score off the preset on my game!

What a fun game!

In the club as of yesterday! Needs some work to make it look pretty! Should be fun!!

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Wow Congrats!

The game looks real nice, even the gun handle looks great!

Nice score!

Its really great to buy a game that actually works LOL !

My game is ok, but needs a playfield I think.

But I didnt pay much for it...

I wanted to get chrome colored flipper bats but little shop of games is out of them,

Does anyone else have them?

Im WAY too cheap to get actual metal ones.

My playfield is pretty good I think!! Dirty as hell tho!!

Chipping in a few spots.

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Side rails arent even dented!!!

That looks like it will clean up really well, VM&P naptha on paper towels to clean the old wax off. Novus 2 on a microfiber rag to rub out the ball trails and any black crap.

Re-clean off the novus with naptha, then wax with blitz or p21s carnauba, buff with a yellow detailing cloth to a high gloss.

If you can get VM&P naptha you can use Colemans fuel by the gallon. Its 99% naptha.

Black oil based Sharpie paint marker for any cabinet and door touch ups, inside and out.

Wipe the marker gently before it dries with a paper towel to de-gloss it.

Rustoleum satin black sprayed wet on a paper towel to rub in and touch up any wood work, inside and out, works wonders.

That's what I'm doing in the morning. Thank you!

Thanks man! Starting to clean tonight. To replace the back box / head decals I would need to sand this down I assume? The wood has lots of “splitting” in it like planking.

To fill in the lower corner. Wood filler?

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If the game is running 100%, then I work on the cabinet.

Completely disassemble the head.

Sand it down to the wood with an orbital sander.

Fill the corners with bondo it they arent too badly missing.

Any cracks can be clamped and glued with titebond III glue.

Any loose joints can be countersunk and wood screws applied deeply and glued with titebond.
Use bondo to cover the screw heads.

For bad planking and unstable fibers, I mix titebond glue with about 25% water and paint it on then let it dry.
It sands out pretty good.

Fill any voids with Half-Time filler, it dries and is sandable in 10 mins, so you can keep working on it until your satisfied. You can also "butter" any end grain with half-time to give the front a more finished appearance.

Sand everything square, but very slightly round off sharp edges to keep wood fibers from splitting out.

Use Kilz oil based primer on the wood. 2 coats sanding very smooth, both coats.

You can get Kilz in gallon cans and use a foam roller and foam brush. For hard to sand areas you can get Kilz in a spray can.

Let the primer dry at least one day, maybe 2. It should not be super cold to the touch, but room temperature.

Primer has to be dry to sand properly. Dry sand, never wet (it raises the grain of the wood)

Use Rustoleum satin black paint or similar, 2 coats or more if you need to sand it out. It will take a week to dry if you have to sand out runs.

DONT PAINT THE BOTTOM OF THE HEAD. Leave it primer white or if it looks good enough, leave it alone. If you paint it, it will stick like glue to the bottom cabinet. It takes a LONG time for the paint to dry.

Apply decals, Trim them back 1/8" from the edges so they dont catch on things and lift off.

Seal the white edge of the decal with Sharpie oil based paint marker.

Reassemble, and your done!

It takes about 6 months for the paint to dry super hard and durable, until then its super easy to touch it up if needed.

Do the same with the lower cabinet, they dont have to be done at the same time.

Again, dont paint the bottom of the head, just leave it primered and lightly sanded, or leave it alone.

You can however paint the bottom of the head if you use urethane automotive paint.

It catylizes super hard and wont stick to the lower cabinet, basically it dries hard in a couple hours.

I do it both ways, but the Rustoleum looks more factory as they used cheap paint, and its WAY easier to touch up.

Painting and restoring cabinets is kinda fun and pretty easy.

Remember, its just a plywood box lol... not fine furnature.

On backbox Stencils:

Someone near you might have the silkscreen stencil, or let you borrow it. This is preferred.

It looks perfect with the yellow stenciled warning text.

By all means its not necessary, but it looks cool and the sign of a better job.

Dont be tempted to BUY the crappy big warning text sticker for the back.

Its better to just leave it alone, the stickers fall off and bubble horribly over time.

Cleaned up nice!

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Good job

Ordering leds. How many flashers does T2 have? Are they just in the back box? I’m

The game looks great!

There are #89 and #906 bulbs I havent got to them yet.

Off hand, at least a dozen #906 and maybe 6 or 8 #89 bulbs, but I dont have a count yet.

I was getting some buzz/flickering in the GI LEDs but turning off GI Dimming seems to have fixed it.

Thanks!

My game has the original ROM. I set my attract mode sounds to off. But am still getting a sound. Like the door slam sound when the screen switches images periodically.
Is this normal? Fixed it with the new 8.3 rom?

I’m placing an order for leds tonight. For the inserts should I go cool white or color match some? White for the GI or some blue and red?

Thanks!

Todays work was to replace the cannon switch and both ramp switches.

They were seriously bent out of shape and still only worked 7 out of 10 times....

The ramp switches had been replaced before, but the cannon switch looked melted, shrunken and horribly abused lol.

The new switches work prefecly after minor lateral adjustments.

You should never have to "bend" the actuator on switches (replace them)...They didnt do that at the factory...

I put in 100% sunlight frosted 2smd from comet.

It looks perfect in all cases.

I only put a color one "here and there" to accentuate a color, like in the terminator eyes in the playfield maybe (but they wiil probably make orange...).
He looks pretty good with the sunlight bulbs though.

For me its simple, I buy 100 or 200 555 sunlight 2smd frosted,

And 100 #44 sunlight 2smd frosted and go from there.

This works in nearly all games.

Sounds good!
Glad you got your switches fixed!

I put some leds in the back box that I already had. Cool white. The translite looks like it has faded quite a bit over the years from the incandescent bulbs.

Any one stock a good quilting translite?

Thanks!
Richard

Im seriously thinking of getting the CPR glass mirrored backglass.

It would be amazing! But it might make the rest of my game look worn and trashy....

Your game however looks GREAT!

The CPR mirrored back glass looks awesome.

Seriously, If it redid the cabinet, theres no way I would put a stale old translite in it.

CPR backglass all the way!

Hmmm, maybe. I was looking on their website earlier. If I am not mistaken the are a Canadian Company. Only a few hours from me.

I also want a pinsound board, and a pin2dmd HD from https://stumblorpinball.com/

Your game looks so good, I say GO FOR IT !!!

Yes, the 8.3 rom fixes the bong bong. But I’d just deal with it till 8.4 comes out in a month or so. It has a lot of new stuff in it. That is unless you have a rom burner and don’t want to wait.