That's the reason why I decided to restore my T2 the original way with only some unique improvements.

I’m in the market for a T2. Are the Chrome editions more valuable?
Cheers!
Richard

I can tell you the chrome parts are not cheap to procure, so in that sense they’re certainly worth more!

There are lots of iterations and interpretations of a chrome editon. All personal taste.

I don't like the original blue theme myself.

A machine is worth what it is to you personally I think.

Fellow T-2’ers

I found out why my skull wasn’t always working.

Where can I buy the plastic ball cradle driver rod?

Here’s a pic with the broken part and a faint red arrow pointing at it.

Thanks in advance!!

5DFDF561-E112-4031-A6F2-56A04FFD1A6E (resized).jpeg

Marco Specialties. ( Marco pinball).

Thanks I am not very efficient at finding the correct item at Marcos.

It leads me to this part

515-5352-00 plunge

From this kit:

VERTICAL UP KICKER (VUK) COMPONENT KIT
#565-0029-01
Vertical Up Kicker (VUK) repair kit contains plunger, cap, spring, spring compression clips and roll pin.

Order this kit if you need the 545-5227-00 Vertical Up-Kicker ball "cup".

Ships un-assembled.

Contains the following components:

545-5227-00 ball popper cap
515-5352-00 plunger
266-5025-00 spring
270-5010-00 compression ring (3)
251-5004-00 roll pin
Reference:

Data East / Sega / Stern 565-0029-01
Wico 18-002900
Weight: 0.1 lb

But doesn't say it is for T2

Product Compatibility
DATA EAST
STAR WARS (Data East) , TALES FROM THE CRYPT,

And mine is black not natural nylon.

PLUNGER ASSEMBLY 3.875 INCHES
#A-11336
Ball popper armature and nylon tip extension assembly.
Overall length 3.875 inches (98 mm)

Reference:
D-12642 bottom ball popper assembly
B-12505 bracket
D-11335-2 ball popper assembly
B-11631 bracket
A-11336 armature
D-11335-1 ball popper assembly
20-9314-7 roll pin dowel 3/32 inch diameter x 1/2 long
515-5352-00
Weight: 1.73 oz

BALLY
ATLANTIS (Bally), BLACK ROSE, DR DUDE, DR DUDE, ELVIRA, PARTY ZONE,
WILLIAMS
BANZAI RUN, BLACK KNIGHT 2000, F-14 TOMCAT, FISH TALES, HURRICANE, SPACE STATION, TERMINATOR 2,

Are you looking for this?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8053

Thanks for taking the time and looking at this for me. I need the shaft that fits into the plunger cap.

If you look at my pic I need the part that get driven up by the coil the top of it broke off and you can see where the pin goes into it cuz it is broke there.

Oh, I see you found it in the post I quoted.

The manual has all the parts listed (you can download the manual from IPDB if you don't already have it)

You'll need parts 2, 3 & 4 in the below pic, and you should replace the sleeve (#10) while you're at it

pasted_image (resized).png

Thanks I have the manual and the part I need is not on that fig. That’s why I was asking for help.

The part I need is between arrows 4 and 10.

Maybe it is part 2 if it’s one piece???

Thanks

Correct the armature (#2) is sold as one piece

Theres no such thing as a T2 that the VUK didn't self destruct at some point... Mine is HUO and i'm the original owner, and mine blew up many years ago too!

Thanks so much!!!

John

I had mine blow up in October - fired the cap and ball up into the wireform. Here's the plunger, cap, and roll pin I ordered from Marco to get it going:

Plunger: A-11336 - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-11336
Cap: 03-8053 - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8053
roll pin: 20-9314-7 - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9314-7

I would also replace the spring while you have it apart. It's a little tricky to get it all back together so you won't want to do it again until you need to.
Spring: 10-135 - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-135

Edit: yes part #2 "plunger" could be sold as two pieces but is only sold as one piece. You can also probably reuse your cap but if you are in there I'd just replace it.

Recently lost my right flipper, no power.

On the power driver board Fuse 112 was good ,but Fuse 102 was blown, replaced it and it blew again. I am suspecting BR3 rectifier, but haven't pulled the board to tested it yet. My pins don't break down often but when they do I need to go into learning mod, but there is much to learn, so I am looking for advice if I am on the right path from someone who knows these old Williams boards better than me.

When mine was doing this it was my right flipper leaf switch making contact with the plunger. Took me a while to figure it out.

I ill check that tonight. You are referring to the EOS?

No, for me it was the right flipper cabinet mounted leaf switch, the one actuated by the flipper button. It started happening when a I installed a new leaf switch and didn't realize it was touching the plunger, there's not a lot of clearance between them. I had to rearrange the blocks on the new leaf switch to make room and I added a strip of electrical tape for good measure.

Thanks I will certainly check the clearance in that area.

I'd doubt that it's BR3, as it powers all your solenoids as well as both flippers and you only have an issue with the right flipper (I assume that the left flipper and solenoids all work fine?). Does the fuse blow immediately or only when you start a game or only when you press the flipper button?

Replace F102 and disconnect J109 and J110, then power the game on - if F102 blows then the issue is on the power driver board, otherwise it's on either the PF or cabinet.

Thanks I will try this to narrow it down.

I had a Dirty Harry with one right flipper out and blowing fuses and I found a bad rectifier on the Fliptronic board that fixed it. Thought it might be similar with the Power Driver board on T2.

I will dig deeper. Thanks.

T2 is pre-fliptronics, so BR3 powers all coils.

When is the fuse F102 blowing?

I changed the fuse last night, powered up and started a game, no power to flipper. I didn't check to see if it blows on power up or just when a game starts.
I need to find more fuses.
Would you know what q # transistor on the Power Driver board would be associated with the Right flipper? The manual doesn't have good schematics or board layout.

T2 doesn't use transistors for the flippers, it's more like a simple circuit with a switch (the flipper button switch). BR3 sends power to the coil (so before starting a game you should have 50V power on the coil lugs - assuming F102 hasn't blown). The circuit then goes to the flipper button switch (hence the need for a high power leaf switch, compared to what is used on fliptronics games), and then back to the power driver board. The relay on the power driver board is how the game controls when the flippers can and can't be used, when the game is started the relay closes connecting the flipper button leaf switch to ground, such that when the button is pressed current will pass from BR3 through the coil and then the flipper button leaf switch to ground.

Here's the associated schematics for the flippers
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png

I robbed the fuse from the working left flipper and put it in F102, power on, tested voltage on coil lugs, 70 VDC, fuse didn't blow till it hit the flipper button.

Either a bad coil or wrong wiring at the coil.

I checked the clearance at the leaf on the cabinet switch and it does hit the ball plunger when button is hit, never did it before but something must have changed. Would that cause a short. I need to round up some fuses to do more testing. Out of stock of 3a slo blow.

That's your huckleberry!

After the restoration of my T2 I figured out that there a two different switches for the Flipper buttons available, an old version and a new version.
The difference is the height of the switch, but it didn't convince me at all.
I made some custom modification to ensure nothing will be short circuited.

DSCN9181 (resized).JPG

DSCN9183 (resized).JPG

DSCN9184 (resized).JPG

DSCN9185 (resized).JPG

I am waiting on 3A Slo fuses from Digikey, but in the meantime, would 4A slo be too much to test with? It is a 2.5A from factory spec but had 3A installed, but I am worried 4A may be too big to use temporary to see if the cabinet switch shorting on the plunger is the problem.

I wouldn't, but that's just me. I've turned small problems into big ones by taking shortcuts too many times

I better wait for the right size. I am modifying the switch now to get more clearance. I am hopeful that is all my problems.

I have to say, I love this fucking game, even though it is pissing me off right now. I am just mad I am not playing it.

I have a few of these in my fuse kit with different amp ratings. It might be overkill for you but if you are going through a lot of fuses, these work great for testing purposes. I just solder 2 inch wire with alligator clips to the terminals.

https://a.co/d/7bT0Qax

That looks like a great idea for testing. Much better than going through several fuses to check for problems. I may get these for future issues. Thanks.

You can also solder a blown fuse to them and then snap right into the fuse holder.

Update, I got a buddy to borrow (steal) a couple fuses from work, put it in and blows F102. Removed coil and installed a different known working one and boom we are back in business. I can't see that coil blowing but maybe one or both of the diodes is cooked?

But thanks for all the help from everyone. We are back in business.

Test the resistance between the faulty coil lugs (https://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html shows you should have 4.0 ohms and 133.0 ohms on the 2 wirings). Suspect you have a short on one of them - as you mentioned possibly a shorted diode

Smart!

Looking for terminator 3 club?

Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Thanks

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t3-clubrise-of-the-machine

Terminator 3

Thanks so much for help, I did the spring and new cap as you suggested.

Everything is working perfectly now!! Whoot Whoot!!

ONe last question is there a easier way to get that little pin put back into the new plunger plastic hole. OMG it took me forever and the way I was pushing, pulling, and grabbing that thing I can't believe I didn't wreck something.

So please you guys have to have some trick or tool to getting that thing back in there. And don't tell me to spit on it!! LOL

Have a few more original parts to sell if anyone is interested:

Original T2 apron (does not have wireform protector)
Sling plastics and the two plastics that surround the skull (new, in great condition)
Original speaker panel (used in. Players condition)
Legs, channel housing, and various cabinet parts
Cannon mod cover with blue inserts

Hit me up for pictures or any questions. Could have more parts that I’m forgetting about so just send me a message if there’s something you’re looking for.

You ain't lying here. I cussed at that pin for a while. I took the whole assembly out of the game and to my workbench. Don't try to do it in game, go ahead and unsolder the coil. The switch you can unscrew and leave in the game. The way I did it was to get it started by hand then 'press' it in by squeezing with a pair of channel lock pliers. Don't try to hammer it in or you'll just be frustrated (spit or no spit).

Wow, wish you had posted this before I just spent $50 ($25 each) for them from Marco.

Okay glad there was not a easier trick way to get it in. I left the assembly in my game and what I did was file the one end of the pin to a point. The first time I did not take enough off of it. Then it helped me get it started and I pushed it in using a vise grip on both sides of the assembly. But as you know that pin needs to in a bit deeper so it doesn't hang up on the cup itself so I used a needle nose and a small wire to push it in the final 1/16" and man did my back let me know how stupid I was for leaving it in the game. For anyone doing this in the future follow the advice from tripplett and remove it from the game all together. Oh and I was going to use a hammer I just didn't have the guts to swing it hard inside the cabinet!

Thanks again,

John

Sending you a PM!