(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

10 years ago


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There are 9,785 posts in this topic. You are on page 195 of 196.
#9701 17 days ago
Quoted from Quadrider:

I’ve been on a mission to figure out a way to adjust the T2 kickback to feed into the rollovers and pop bumpers every time. Not sure if SR originally designed it to, but I feel it only makes logical sense… (E.G. Getaway kickback into the mountain). In fact, most T2 owners say their kickback just feeds into the chase loop and falls right back down. Well I finally got it to work 100% of the time.
I replaced the kickback coil, plunger, and return spring (not sure if you would have to, but I did it before I figured out the solution). Basically, I installed 2 small thin washers under the red screws and 1 under the yellow screw in between the coil bracket and PF. Also, the coil needs to be adjusted as far left as possible without the plunger hitting the bend out in the side rail right before the coil. The idea is that the plunger hits the ball at dead center along with pushing it left for a smooth feed along the kickback left guide rail.
Under the cannon, There’s 2 screws on the side rail that need to be removed (marked in blue). Lightly hand bend this side rail towards the right, flexing it towards the cannon base and GI Bulb (green arrow). Unfortunately in order for this to work, you have to leave those 2 screws out to allow the guide rail to essentially flex during the impact. After bending the rail to the right, I tried drilling new holes in the PF and screwing the rail back in using the newly drilled holes, but unfortunately it doesn’t work…. it acts like a solid wall and doesn’t allow the ball to move up into the chase loop. The rail must be able to lightly flex to mitigate and sponge the impact. I’m not really concerned about PF wear along the rail, as it barely moves when the ball impacts it anyways. Worst case, maybe I’ll put a thin strip of Mylar under the side rail.
Good luck!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Do you have a video of this? Sounds pretty interesting.

#9702 17 days ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Do you have a video of this? Sounds pretty interesting.

Unfortunately no, I don’t. I suppose I could upload one. As long as you follow what I laid out, it should work. Mines been working perfectly and kicking back into to rollovers and pops 100% of the time. Once in a while, it’ll actually even loop all the way around and return down the escape route orbit.

#9703 17 days ago
Quoted from AD72:

Thank you! Ordered one. Do you have an outline for the bracket you fabricated to mount the jaw you could share?

I just used the standard Skull chin guard, which you can still get from Marcos if you don’t don’t have one.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10279-G

#9704 17 days ago

I’ve only had my T2 about 6 months. When I first got it the kickback wouldn’t make it to the pops. I’ve since started shopping everything. So far the underside of the playfield is done. All switches cleaned, new coil sleeves, anything broken or bent repaired, solder joints checked, diodes checked, etc.

I don’t recall anything abnormal on the kickback but I do know I cleaned the coil & plunger and put a new sleeve in it. Checked the end of the plunger too but it was fine. Now it will send it up to the pops about 70% - albeit usually just to the first roll through. Part of it may be how early or late the switch fires too. But I don’t think I adjusted it.

Like you said alignment probably plays a good role in how solid a hit you get and that may end up being game dependent. You could also take a few windings off the coil. I’m happy with 70% but I may take a look at the side side and up down alignment a little more now that you mentioned it. I also think my game is ever so slightly tilted left. Not enough to make a huge difference but does seem to help a little with sdtm drains - so I didn’t fix it. That may also make the kickback too now that I think about it.

#9705 16 days ago

Guys, how hard is it to remove the playfield from T2? I want to clean it completely and will rather do that on a bench than in the cabinet. But I have never removed a pf before so I really don´t know which way is the quickest.
I have already removed all connectors and pcb´s from the backbox, because I want to clean/inspect the pcb´s. The connectors are still "hanging" in the backbox, but not connected to anything. Do you recommend me to remove the playfield as well, as it should be pretty straight forward now that the connectors are removed from the backbox, or should I leave the playfield in the cabinet? How hard is it to remove the pf from here? Never removed a pf before.

So what I´m asking is which is the quickest way in your opinion, to clean the whole pf (=plastics, ramps, etc will have to be removed). Will it be faster to keep it in the cabinet, or will it actually be faster to remove it and do the work outside the cabinet (including the time for removal/re-installation of the pf)?

#9706 16 days ago
Quoted from ravve:

Guys, how hard is it to remove the playfield from T2?

I've removed half a dozen playfields for different games and they all just lifted out once you have everything disconnected (double check). It is easier with two people. I haven't removed my T2's playfield yet, but I doubt it is any different.

Do you have something you can put it on to work on outside of the cabinet? Like sawhorses or a rotisserie? The risk is it falling over or off of whatever you are working off of and the playfield getting damaged. You'll have to weigh the risk vs reward yourself.

#9707 16 days ago

Hey all - I've searched this thread and haven't seen anyone with a similar issue, and would love some advice. I just replaced a blown fuse that controls the solenoid that pushes the ball up the small ramp into the ball trough when it drains. Everything is working now, but when the ball is pushed into the trough by the solenoid, it is forceful enough to knock another ball into the shooter lane. So when my ball drains, another one gets unintentionally kicked in, auto-launched, and my game never ends. Great for a high score, but definitely not as Sir Ritchie intended.

I checked the settings to see if there was a way to decrease the strength of the solenoid, but I don't think that was a thing yet in the early 90's. Any advice that you can give me to solve this? Much appreciated!

#9708 16 days ago

Does anyone in here happen to own the pinball dreams chrome kit from way back when? I’m trying to get an inventory list of all the pieces that were included in the deluxe kit. Found one randomly from a seller that is claiming it has all the parts but he doesn’t really know what was originally included either. He acquired it as part of a larger collection purchase, so I’m just trying to make sure it’s not missing anything. The lighted apron and coin door overlay are included, which were my primary concerns anyways but it’d still be nice to know I’m not missing anything considering the price tag I’ve agreed to pay for it!

#9709 16 days ago
Quoted from BubbaBeast:

Hey all - I've searched this thread and haven't seen anyone with a similar issue, and would love some advice. I just replaced a blown fuse that controls the solenoid that pushes the ball up the small ramp into the ball trough when it drains. Everything is working now, but when the ball is pushed into the trough by the solenoid, it is forceful enough to knock another ball into the shooter lane. So when my ball drains, another one gets unintentionally kicked in, auto-launched, and my game never ends. Great for a high score, but definitely not as Sir Ritchie intended.
I checked the settings to see if there was a way to decrease the strength of the solenoid, but I don't think that was a thing yet in the early 90's. Any advice that you can give me to solve this? Much appreciated!

You're correct, you can't "dial down" the power on the coil via a menu setting. You have something mechanical going on. My first suggestion is to remove the apron, start a game, and take a good look at the phenomenon. Hopefully the problem will be evident.

#9710 16 days ago
Quoted from Dna127:

Initially as a complete skull it is far too long to fit as is due to it being a complete skull. But in terms of height and width when compared to the original plastic one did by side, it’s basically the same, just a lot longer from front to back. I did decide at one point to go with the loot crate skull mod but that looked too small imo.

I wanted it to be in the same position as the original, which is why I cut the sides so that I could mount it further back and in the same place as the original skull.
It was a bit more work than just cutting the sides as I had to grind some of the inside of the skull away so that the wire form had enough clearance.

That way the wire form could be completely hidden from one side and I could mount right back so you could still see the drop down target when playing.

What lights/bulbs did you use for the eyes in the skull?

#9711 15 days ago
Quoted from Quadrider:

I’ve been on a mission to figure out a way to adjust the T2 kickback to feed into the rollovers and pop bumpers every time. Not sure if SR originally designed it to, but I feel it only makes logical sense… (E.G. Getaway kickback into the mountain). In fact, most T2 owners say their kickback just feeds into the chase loop and falls right back down. Well I finally got it to work 100% of the time.
I replaced the kickback coil, plunger, and return spring (not sure if you would have to, but I did it before I figured out the solution). Basically, I installed 2 small thin washers under the red screws and 1 under the yellow screw in between the coil bracket and PF. Also, the coil needs to be adjusted as far left as possible without the plunger hitting the bend out in the side rail right before the coil. The idea is that the plunger hits the ball at dead center along with pushing it left for a smooth feed along the kickback left guide rail.
Under the cannon, There’s 2 screws on the side rail that need to be removed (marked in blue). Lightly hand bend this side rail towards the right, flexing it towards the cannon base and GI Bulb (green arrow). Unfortunately in order for this to work, you have to leave those 2 screws out to allow the guide rail to essentially flex during the impact. After bending the rail to the right, I tried drilling new holes in the PF and screwing the rail back in using the newly drilled holes, but unfortunately it doesn’t work…. it acts like a solid wall and doesn’t allow the ball to move up into the chase loop. The rail must be able to lightly flex to mitigate and sponge the impact. I’m not really concerned about PF wear along the rail, as it barely moves when the ball impacts it anyways. Worst case, maybe I’ll put a thin strip of Mylar under the side rail.
Good luck!
[quoted image][quoted image]

This has come up before and I took a look at the original T2 promo video to see what the kickback did - the first kickback doesn't make the top lanes, but think the second one does based on where Steve reaches for the ball, so there was variation even with the original promo machine.

If you're interested, there's also various posts on techniques people have used to get the ball more reliably up to the rollover lanes from the kickback - probably easiest to search the thread for kickback and then scan the posts.

#9712 15 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I took a look at the original T2 promo video to see what the kickback did

Not to take anything away from SR (or the mullet ha) and an incredible pin design but it is apparent that Williams didn't have access to much of the movie material when this game was created. I'm sure that was discussed before somewhere in this 195 pages of goodness. So many iconic points in the movie, music, callouts, characters, etc from the movie just aren't in it. T-1000 is the obvious one. He's on a plastic or two and the back of the playfield but a toy would have been cool (yes I'm aware of 3D printed add ons). The back glass and cabinet could have contained more of this great movie. Music and call outs too. Anyway I'm sure I'm not telling you all anything you don't already know. Love this game and movie, just wish they had meshed better.

#9713 15 days ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

What lights/bulbs did you use for the eyes in the skull?

I just used a couple red comet bulbs to light the eyes.

#9714 15 days ago
Quoted from tripplett:

Not to take anything away from SR (or the mullet ha) and an incredible pin design but it is apparent that Williams didn't have access to much of the movie material when this game was created. I'm sure that was discussed before somewhere in this 195 pages of goodness. So many iconic points in the movie, music, callouts, characters, etc from the movie just aren't in it. T-1000 is the obvious one. He's on a plastic or two and the back of the playfield but a toy would have been cool (yes I'm aware of 3D printed add ons). The back glass and cabinet could have contained more of this great movie. Music and call outs too. Anyway I'm sure I'm not telling you all anything you don't already know. Love this game and movie, just wish they had meshed better.

The game was designed prior to the release of the T2 movie and they were restricted on what was able to be put on the pin. The movie and the game both came out in July 1991

#9715 15 days ago

Is there a 3D print of the T-1000 for in front of the pop bumpers?

#9716 15 days ago

Anyone have a decent used plastics set for this game? Skull and space craft needed too

#9717 14 days ago
Quoted from tripplett:

I've removed half a dozen playfields for different games and they all just lifted out once you have everything disconnected (double check). It is easier with two people. I haven't removed my T2's playfield yet, but I doubt it is any different.
Do you have something you can put it on to work on outside of the cabinet? Like sawhorses or a rotisserie? The risk is it falling over or off of whatever you are working off of and the playfield getting damaged. You'll have to weigh the risk vs reward yourself.

Just built myself a pinball rotisserie, I´ve decided to remove the playfield completely Wish me luck! Btw, if anyone have photos or descriptons on which connector goes where in the backbox, that would be appreciated! Long story short, my game came with an empty backbox (except for the wire harness/connectors), I have all pcb:s ready but need to make sure to connect them right... Already searched the web to gather pics and hopefully I have enough, but still if u guys have more pics or similar, it would be nice

#9718 14 days ago
Quoted from ravve:

Just built myself a pinball rotisserie, I´ve decided to remove the playfield completely Wish me luck! Btw, if anyone have photos or descriptons on which connector goes where in the backbox, that would be appreciated! Long story short, my game came with an empty backbox (except for the wire harness/connectors), I have all pcb:s ready but need to make sure to connect them right... Already searched the web to gather pics and hopefully I have enough, but still if u guys have more pics or similar, it would be nice

There are 52 pages in the topic image gallery of this thread, I have sussed out a lot of issues using it. I kind of forget about it sometimes but it is a useful tool, just have to do a little searching. I got this one off of page 2.

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#9719 14 days ago

Just realized that post may have come off a little harsh and I really didn't mean it to be. I've gotten my fair share of help on this site and I'm happy to pass it on whenever I can, especially on this game (it has been a problem child). I used the topic image gallery for Paragon to help me put it back together because I didn't take the best pictures, looks like Terminator has a lot of images too but I'm sure most of us will gladly help you out.

#9720 14 days ago
Quoted from Bohm:

There are 52 pages in the topic image gallery of this thread, I have sussed out a lot of issues using it. I kind of forget about it sometimes but it is a useful tool, just have to do a little searching. I got this one off of page 2.[quoted image]

Thx, already checked most of the image galley, not so much backbox images but some are useful

#9721 14 days ago
Quoted from ravve:

Thx, already checked most of the image galley, not so much backbox images but some are useful

Page 3-7 to 3-10 in the manual shows most of the board connectors and their associated wire colours. Also the vast majority of the connectors are keyed, so that will help as well. I'd suggest that you do all of these and then see what (if any) connectors you have left unplugged - if you can't work out where they go take some pics and we can help you out.

#9722 14 days ago

Well I can finally be part of the club!
ACED4F46-D247-44A4-BBAA-14120AB6BEBA (resized).jpeg

#9723 14 days ago

After driving 8 hours round trip, Im now part of the club. Needs a little work and Im going to trick this one out.

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#9724 14 days ago
t 2 welcome pinside (resized).jpg
#9725 13 days ago
Quoted from PBlank:

Well I can finally be part of the club!

Welcome. Good specimen. Looks like you have LEDs and yellow flippers with orange rubbers. Any other mods?

#9726 13 days ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Needs a little work and Im going to trick this one out.

Looks good, I don't like the black rings but it should clean up nicely. What kind of things did you have in mind for it?

#9727 13 days ago

Has anyone installed these PinGraffics blades? If so did you like them? Any other blades people liking in their T2? I'm looking through the image gallery and see a few mirrors but that's all. Thanks.

https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/holo-terminator-2-pinblades

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#9728 13 days ago
Quoted from tripplett:

What kind of things did you have in mind for it?

Clean the playfield, new rubbers, new LED lights. I will polish all hardware and wire ramps. I have coming a new skull as posted by MG7322 above in this thread. Going to make my own custom t-1000. Its on its way. I have a new manhunter/destroyer ship that I will add the light mod to. Im thinking I will add mirror blades to this game. I have them in my Medieval maddness game and like how they expand the look of the playfield. The game all works, so mostly cleaning and adjusting is needs. Once the playfield is finished I'll work on the cabinet. I not sure yet if I want to do a cabinet decal or just fix and repaint certain areas. Im also not sure if this game is a keeper yet as my game room is full. If I do keep it, Color DMD and pinsound card with custom sounds would be excellent.

#9729 13 days ago
Quoted from tripplett:

Has anyone installed these PinGraffics blades? If so did you like them? Any other blades people liking in their T2? I'm looking through the image gallery and see a few mirrors but that's all. Thanks.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/holo-terminator-2-pinblades
[quoted image]

I like those a lot, with the right LEDs they will look really good. I went with these:

1F06C445-DB6C-48D7-98ED-91582D714937 (resized).jpeg
https://mezelmods.com/collections/terminator-2-pinball-mods/products/terminator-2-gameblades

#9730 13 days ago
Quoted from tripplett:

Has anyone installed these PinGraffics blades? If so did you like them? Any other blades people liking in their T2? I'm looking through the image gallery and see a few mirrors but that's all. Thanks.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/holo-terminator-2-pinblades
[quoted image]

My opinion is go with mirrors. It looks so good with the theme of the playfield and the light show at the end of a game.

#9731 13 days ago

Don't forget to update the Game Rom.

#9732 13 days ago

I went with T2 chrome edition side blades from retrorefurbs

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/terminator-2-chrome-pinball-sideblades/

4E2F796B-B371-4213-961D-36298570EBCC (resized).jpeg
#9733 13 days ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Going to make my own custom t-1000.

I could not find any posts about 3d printing one. I have only seen the cast one. I just put together a 3D printer and am itching to make some stuff for T2.

Quoted from bicyclenut:

I not sure yet if I want to do a cabinet decal or just fix and repaint certain areas.

The pink (or was it red?) is faded on the sides of my cabinet. I was thinking of making some stencils and reshooting just that color.

Quoted from bicyclenut:

Im also not sure if this game is a keeper yet as my game room is full. If I do keep it, Color DMD and pinsound card with custom sounds would be excellent.

I just joined the club as well. Mine is at work at Omron Robotics so the theme is fitting. I got my engineering team into playing pinball now and T2 is a perfect level of intro difficulty.
I am going to get a TiltAudio board as soon as the parts are available.

#9734 13 days ago
Quoted from tripplett:

Welcome. Good specimen. Looks like you have LEDs and yellow flippers with orange rubbers. Any other mods?

I haven't done anything yet. That's how it came. I'm looking at things I can add to pimp it out a bit. So far on the list is, new rubbers, all new leds, cleaning up and chroming the handle, speaker ring lights, Hunter Killer ship mod, pinsound board and speakers, and some misc toys here and there. I don't want to add too much noise to it, but just accents. Open to other suggestions!

#9735 13 days ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Color DMD and pinsound card with custom sounds would be excellent.

I'd check pics and video of ones with a color dmd before you buy one. I hear it isn't as beneficial on this pin. Lots of folks putting a red film over the existing display though - gives it a nice red color.

#9736 13 days ago
Quoted from tripplett:

I'd check pics and video of ones with a color dmd before you buy one. I hear it isn't as beneficial on this pin. Lots of folks putting a red film over the existing display though - gives it a nice red color.

Thats exactly what I was thinking! thanks for the heads up

#9737 13 days ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

After driving 8 hours round trip, Im now part of the club. Needs a little work and Im going to trick this one out.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome, yours looks like mine did it was in pretty tough shape. If you are going to do new decals the ones that planetary pinball sell are made by the guy in Germany, they are a dead on match for the original nice bright fluorescent colors on it.

#9738 13 days ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

Awesome, yours looks like mine did it was in pretty tough shape. If you are going to do new decals the ones that planetary pinball sell are made by the guy in Germany, they are a dead on match for the original nice bright fluorescent colors on it.

Were these cabinets originally screened on the wood or decals?

#9739 13 days ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Were these cabinets originally screened on the wood or decals?

They had a black vinyl coating that was applied to the cabinet and then the image was silkscreened directly onto that. It wasn’t a decal per se but not really that different from a decal. It was a real bitch to get it off plus my cabinet was a disaster somebody broke the bottom and it was held together with Sheetrock screws. It took a lot of work and help from my father in law to get the cabinet back together. The. I had to sand and bondo the hell out of it to get it smooth for the decals. If you have the time and like doing the type of work it’s very satisfying

#9740 13 days ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

If you have the time and like doing the type of work it’s very satisfying

I dont anymore. Ive done so many EM cabinet restores that im sick of them.... So not sure where I stand with this now. thanks for the info

#9741 13 days ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

After driving 8 hours round trip, Im now part of the club. Needs a little work and Im going to trick this one out.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Mine might be rougher than yours. It's not bad enough that I feel the need to restore it because it plays good and presents fine in a lineup, LEDs work wonders, so I'm going to stick some money in it, make it more interesting. Good to know about the Color DMD, that's a lot of scratch for something lame.

#9742 13 days ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

I dont anymore. Ive done so many EM cabinet restores that im sick of them.... So not sure where I stand with this now. thanks for the info

Depends on how far you want to go with it. You could always have a new cabinet built, Paul at virtua pin is supposed to make an awesome product and he will even add the decals

#9743 10 days ago
Quoted from tripplett:

Has anyone installed these PinGraffics blades? If so did you like them? Any other blades people liking in their T2? I'm looking through the image gallery and see a few mirrors but that's all. Thanks.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/holo-terminator-2-pinblades
[quoted image]

I have them installed - they look better than the picture

5A6B8B7B-6061-4FB2-810B-B54ECC2DF7F4 (resized).jpeg
#9744 10 days ago

making my own Hunter/Destroyer light mod

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#9745 6 days ago

Hello all. Does anyone have a good scan of the inserts? I bought a set to repair my playfield only to find out that those are peel and stick and not waterslide decals that can be use in the clearcoat process. I scan them but the colours are faded compared to how the original inserts were. I need all inserts or even some of them depending what do you have. Thank you.

#9746 5 days ago
Quoted from Averell:

Let me tell you, that we are working on L8.4 right now.
We found some minor bugs that still remained in the old L-8 code, but we make really good progress and we are sure, this time all remaining issues will be fixed.
And we have some more features that we want to include, to make the gameplay more interesting.
For instance we will add a switchable feature to improve the behavior of hit and miss for the 5-target-bank and an option to change the ball saver timing.
Of course all these changes will be comprehensive in a changelog.
And the new features will be descriped in an enhanced manual.
I think, early next year we are able to release a last update.
So be patient and enjoy L8.3... until L8.4 will be available at IPDB.

Any news on this? no rush as I want it to be right... but I would love to have better ball save options - especially on subsequent fires at those 5-target banks like for jackpot & super jackpot. Mine loves to drain after the cannon fire shots.

#9747 5 days ago

So for the past month or so I’ve been amassing parts to do a chrome edition build on my T2 and I was fortunate to score an original pinball dreams chrome kit! However, the kit turned out to be not complete and out of sheer coincidence I was hooked up with a gentleman in NYC that had the remaining pieces I was missing. Only problem was he didn’t want to break up the kit so I had to buy the entire thing again, which means I have a few duplicate parts to sell now.

These are the real deal and are very hard to find, but will not include the coin door or apron since those are the two pieces I needed to complete my build. Still, if anyone is interested in making an offer shoot me a DM! Will be posting on the marketplace early next week if nobody’s interested.

Here’s a list of all that’s included:

Backbox/Speaker Cover
Pop bumper covers
Chrome plastic replacements for the two pieces around the back skull mount
Chrome cover for above the three middle stand up targets
Chrome T2 sling covers
Chrome gun cover
Chrome flipper covers
Chrome backboard cover w/red target inserts (would be a prime candidate for adding some lighting mods too!)
T800 covers with blue inserts
Custom chrome apron cards

Not interested in selling separately at the moment, but will consider all offers. All pieces still have the protective film on them and will be good as new! Put a piece of history and some added bling on your game! Last photo is the name of the original manufacturer for proof of authenticity.

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#9748 5 days ago

does anyone have this top plastic they could sell me? Mine cracked today. Please let me know if you do. Thank you

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#9749 5 days ago

tripplett

We made very good progress with Game Rom L8.4 and have released two Beta-version for testing by selected audience.
But last Tuesday we found an issue regarding ballsaver in combination with locked balls and now we have to compare L-8 with L8.4 again.
And we improve Jackpot and Super Jackpot with a switchable function to let the targets appear randomly.
The code for 255-issue and bonus multiplier is fixed also and we want to integrate a switchable timer for autofire.
I received a tip from Randy Perlow that the first WPC devices have a problem with displaying on the Color DMD. At startup, various fragments are displayed very briefly, which are not an error, but somehow disturbing. Maybe we can find a way to fix the problem with an adjustment of the timing.
Furthermore, Color-DMD has extended the display in color when Profanity is used. So if the term "FUA" appears in the selection, it will be displayed in the correct color... also the huntership animation now runs without errors. For this you have to update your Color-DMD to version 4.2.

#9750 4 days ago

I'm about to embark on my 4th t2 resto.
I've done 2 beautiful chrome editions but I think it's time for a change as they are a bit common now...
mmmm let's see !

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