(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by gac
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There are 11,161 posts in this topic. You are on page 194 of 224.
#9651 1 year ago
Quoted from atg1469:

Do you happen to remember what T800 skull you were using in this setup? I'm trying to make my own but I think it will be too big for the space and yours seems to fit more appropriately.

Looks like the Loot Crate skull - if you search in this thread you’ll get lots of posts on the specific skull

#9652 1 year ago

I like the ice blue GI. The ‘clown puke’ blue looks good too - but seems too dark. Probably better in person. I’m going to get leds for mine this year so I’m filing all this away for reference - thanks for the info. That moving hunter killer is the best HC mod I’ve seen yet - but I’d have to try a few resistors or something to slow it down 50%. I’d love to hear more about this mod @estroh.

#9653 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Looks like the Loot Crate skull - if you search in this thread you’ll get lots of posts on the specific skull

This. It looks like there are a bunch on ebay for under $10.

#9654 1 year ago
Quoted from AD72:

EStroh What are the HK and figure mods you have there? I just got a T2 and it is all stock. Lighting looks good!

The interactive HK ship is from AVO Pinball.
I just picked up the figures from Ebay many years ago. Judge-dreads (from the UK) sells an interactive one with led eyes (also on Ebay).

#9655 1 year ago
Quoted from chrishoyle99:

Thanks Averell, sounds like some fun extra sounds could be added with YouTube to .ogg converter
Are you saying to name a new file to replace Terminator main theme 2 or that you can add a Terminator main theme 3 , 4 and so on which will be played randomly -
Also is there a limit to the length of the file?
Does it need to fade in / out?
Many thanks Averell

If you like, I can send you a complete Soundtrack for your PinSound via Email. You will receive a link where to download. Just copy all on your USB Flashdrive and enjoy.
You can add each sound you like without limitation and no need of Fade In or Fade Out for the main theme.
Jingles or other parts are different.
The latest Soundtrack includes "You Could Be Mine", "Bad To The Bones" and many others.

#9656 1 year ago

So oddly my T2 doesn’t have a service outlet in it. It has a cap where the outlet should be which I’m guessing can be replaced with this part from PBL. My question is what wires would I tap into to power the new outlet?

https://www.pinballlife.com/ac-service-outlet-snap-in-receptacle-with-wire-leads.html

2DB8A359-A573-493B-AF26-9F040153603D (resized).jpeg2DB8A359-A573-493B-AF26-9F040153603D (resized).jpeg
#9657 1 year ago
Quoted from atg1469:

So oddly my T2 doesn’t have a service outlet in it. It has a cap where the outlet should be which I’m guessing can be replaced with this part from PBL. My question is what wires would I tap into to power the new outlet?
https://www.pinballlife.com/ac-service-outlet-snap-in-receptacle-with-wire-leads.html
[quoted image]

Most export games didn't have service outlets in the early WPC games (such as T2), so guessing that your machine is a re-import.

Here's how it should be wired

WPC Service Outlet (resized).jpgWPC Service Outlet (resized).jpg

#9658 1 year ago
Quoted from atg1469:

My question is what wires would I tap into to power the new outlet?

I'd like to add a missing varistor and fuse holder to mine (yep, someone bypassed the main fuse) sometime in the next week so I'll make sure to take a picture of how it's wired and post it.

#9659 1 year ago
Quoted from tripplett:

I'd like to add a missing varistor and fuse holder to mine (yep, someone bypassed the main fuse) sometime in the next week so I'll make sure to take a picture of how it's wired and post it.

that’d be great, thank you!

#9660 1 year ago
Quoted from atg1469:

So oddly my T2 doesn’t have a service outlet in it. It has a cap where the outlet should be which I’m guessing can be replaced with this part from PBL. My question is what wires would I tap into to power the new outlet?
https://www.pinballlife.com/ac-service-outlet-snap-in-receptacle-with-wire-leads.html
[quoted image]

From the picture,
1) White to Blue
2) Green to Green-Yellow gnd
3) Black to Brown.

#9662 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

From the picture,
1) White to Blue
2) Green to Green-Yellow gnd
3) Black to Brown.

My man!! Exactly what I needed, thank you!

#9663 1 year ago

Next question, does anyone know if this apron would fit T2?

https://www.pinballlife.com/hobbit-bottom-arch-black.html

I know a lot of JJP parts are interchangeable with Bally/Williams so hoping this might work as a base for the lighted chrome apron I’m trying to create.

#9664 1 year ago
Quoted from atg1469:

Next question, does anyone know if this apron would fit T2?
https://www.pinballlife.com/hobbit-bottom-arch-black.html
I know a lot of JJP parts are interchangeable with Bally/Williams so hoping this might work as a base for the lighted chrome apron I’m trying to create.

Hobbit is wide body. Don’t think it will work

#9665 1 year ago
Quoted from singapore_pin:

Hobbit is wide body. Don’t think it will work

Shit. Yeah, you’re probably right. I guess the follow up question is does anyone know of a flat apron (without the card holder cutouts) that would fit T2? I can do the custom metal cuts and lighting but I need the right piece to start with.

#9666 1 year ago

In case anyone's selling...looking to buy an upgraded skull mod. All the options I've found on here are either out of stock or no longer being made. Any help tracking one down would be appreciated.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/149527

#9667 1 year ago

I bought this one from Italy.
That guy who sells this is listet here on PinSide.
The second version is more stable also.

DSCN9300 (resized).JPGDSCN9300 (resized).JPG

#9668 1 year ago

I am finishing up a playfield swap and the metal ramp top terminator plastic has me a little stumped. The metal ramp holes are too small for a 6-32 screw. Looking at my and others shop pics and it shows attached with 4 hex head screws but how? Should I tap the holes for a 6-32 screw or drill it up for a screw and nut or find a tiny screw and nut? Just looking to keep it as original as possible. I have learned some things and will post some of my findings when I finish it.
Thanks for any help!
David

IMG_3810 (resized).JPGIMG_3810 (resized).JPG
#9669 1 year ago
Quoted from Averell:

I bought this one from Italy.
That guy who sells this is listet here on PinSide.
The second version is more stable also.
[quoted image]

Apparently he’s out of stock…

#9670 1 year ago
Quoted from Cocktaildave:

I am finishing up a playfield swap and the metal ramp top terminator plastic has me a little stumped. The metal ramp holes are too small for a 6-32 screw. Looking at my and others shop pics and it shows attached with 4 hex head screws but how? Should I tap the holes for a 6-32 screw or drill it up for a screw and nut or find a tiny screw and nut? Just looking to keep it as original as possible. I have learned some things and will post some of my findings when I finish it.
Thanks for any help!
David
[quoted image]

Are you sure that the part is not fastened with #6 hex head sheet metal screws?

#9671 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Are you sure that the part is not fastened with #6 hex head sheet metal screws?

Yeah, 6-32 screws will not fit unless I tap the hole. I can do that unless someone has another idea.

#9672 1 year ago
Quoted from Cocktaildave:

Yeah, 6-32 screws will not fit unless I tap the hole. I can do that unless someone has another idea.

I took mine off to confirm and as vec-tor indicated it's a #6 sheet metal screw (this is not a 6-32 machine screw that you need a tapped hole in the metal)

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4106-01115-08

#9673 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I took mine off to confirm and as vec-tor indicated it's a #6 sheet metal screw (this is not a 6-32 machine screw that you need a tapped hole in the metal)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4106-01115-08

Ahh! Damn it. Yes I am a dumbass Lol.
Thanks. Sheet metal screw for the win. Thanks!

#9674 1 year ago
Quoted from atg1469:

In case anyone's selling...looking to buy an upgraded skull mod. All the options I've found on here are either out of stock or no longer being made. Any help tracking one down would be appreciated.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/149527

I used this skull which is made from resin when I restored my T2. I had to modify it quite a bit to fit but it’s a good size in terms of the rest of the playfield.

I was worried being resin it could get damaged but it held up great even after taking the pin to a show last year.

AD34E99A-8371-4639-B510-4484090E9E09 (resized).jpegAD34E99A-8371-4639-B510-4484090E9E09 (resized).jpeg0097032C-26DD-41D0-A8C8-1630C3E6E1F1 (resized).jpeg0097032C-26DD-41D0-A8C8-1630C3E6E1F1 (resized).jpeg9081CDEB-52F6-471D-890D-FFD584FEE442 (resized).jpeg9081CDEB-52F6-471D-890D-FFD584FEE442 (resized).jpeg
#9675 1 year ago
Quoted from Ant-H:

I used this skull which is made from resin when I restored my T2. I had to modify it quite a bit to fit but it’s a good size in terms of the rest of the playfield.
I was worried being resin it could get damaged but it held up great even after taking the pin to a show last year.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have one that is similar. You did a better job cutting out around the vuk than I did. Looks great.

IMG-20190127-WA0002 (resized).jpgIMG-20190127-WA0002 (resized).jpg
#9676 1 year ago

Today, January 17th is officially Judgment Day. Although they’re not referring to this game, I’ll still take the opportunity to play mine.

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#9677 1 year ago

Ant-H Scoot Who makes that T800 skull? Looks good!

#9678 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I have one that is similar. You did a better job cutting out around the vuk than I did. Looks great. [quoted image]

Thanks mate. It took me absolutely ages of adjusting and cutting to fit right and then mod the eyes to take a couple of red comets.

It was worth it though as looks great when playing.

750F4072-96DD-4FBC-B5E6-B866021F9774 (resized).jpeg750F4072-96DD-4FBC-B5E6-B866021F9774 (resized).jpeg
#9679 1 year ago
Quoted from AD72:

Dna127 Scoot Who makes that T800 skull? Looks good!

It’s made by Nemesis. You can buy them from Amazon I believe.

#9680 1 year ago
Quoted from Ant-H:

It’s made by Nemesis. You can buy them from Amazon I believe.

This is great, what did you use to cut it? The edges are very sharp and clean

https://a.co/d/fu846Yd

This is the wall mount, which is more expensive, but may be easier to work with since the back is open and the eyes light up already, may be too big to fit though.

#9681 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

This is great, what did you use to cut it? The edges are very sharp and clean
https://a.co/d/fu846Yd
This is the wall mount, which is more expensive, but may be easier to work with since the back is open and the eyes light up already, may be too big to fit though.

While it looks great, I believe it'll be too large to fit - the original skull is 140mm (H) x 85mm (W), while this one is 230mm (H) x 160mm (W)

#9682 1 year ago

Hello,

I just want to announce that Color-DMD has uploaded an update for the Chroma LCD DMD - Version 4.2.
In conjunction with the Profanity Rom or the Game Rom L8-3 and onwards, the Selection is now also displayed correctly in color, including the callout "Fuck You Asshole".
Also, the Hunter Ship animation is now displayed flicker-free.

#9683 1 year ago

I just finished putting my game back together after a 10 year on and off again restoration. Everything is pretty much functioning besides the minor tweaks here and there but one thing I am running into is when the game goes into either multi-ball mode it does not recognize the balls are locked and kick the next ball up. It sits idle for 10-15 seconds and starts to search for the balls and then kicks balls out of the locks. Any idea what is going on ow what I can even check. I thought it was the through switches but tests each one in test mode and they are all registering

#9684 1 year ago

That sounds like the switches in the locks themselves, the database hole and top lock. Check those in the switch test.

#9685 1 year ago
Quoted from vikingerik:

That sounds like the switches in the locks themselves, the database hole and top lock. Check those in the switch test.

Tried them and they are working too

#9686 1 year ago

Easy to cut and modify for the pin, have to make a bracket underneath to bolt it up. Ran the OE wires to the eyes so they still light up. Fits good with no clearance issues if you make your hole right.

EC06211A-F04D-4D49-BB30-50299B88F9FA (resized).jpegEC06211A-F04D-4D49-BB30-50299B88F9FA (resized).jpeg43FCCC10-8C45-4CC0-AC8C-1FD786F83C26 (resized).jpeg43FCCC10-8C45-4CC0-AC8C-1FD786F83C26 (resized).jpeg9234543B-CE3C-427F-B8AA-CCCE39B4DF09 (resized).jpeg9234543B-CE3C-427F-B8AA-CCCE39B4DF09 (resized).jpeg45FDDC7D-5335-4192-8325-CBF0F79836F3 (resized).jpeg45FDDC7D-5335-4192-8325-CBF0F79836F3 (resized).jpeg582A86D2-5470-4514-BB16-094DDE431369 (resized).jpeg582A86D2-5470-4514-BB16-094DDE431369 (resized).jpegB69963FE-4CB6-4348-9870-7FF6FEDD6EAB (resized).jpegB69963FE-4CB6-4348-9870-7FF6FEDD6EAB (resized).jpeg212FB95E-3E8C-40E3-9089-41313CE6F41B (resized).jpeg212FB95E-3E8C-40E3-9089-41313CE6F41B (resized).jpeg
#9687 1 year ago

That looks smaller than the one Ant-H used. I guess there are variants of that Nemesis T-800.

#9688 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

This is great, what did you use to cut it? The edges are very sharp and clean
https://a.co/d/fu846Yd
This is the wall mount, which is more expensive, but may be easier to work with since the back is open and the eyes light up already, may be too big to fit though.

I used a Dremel multi tool with a cutting blade for the initial cuts then swapped over to a grinding bit to slowly get the clearance I needed.

#9689 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

While it looks great, I believe it'll be too large to fit - the original skull is 140mm (H) x 85mm (W), while this one is 230mm (H) x 160mm (W)

Initially as a complete skull it is far too long to fit as is due to it being a complete skull. But in terms of height and width when compared to the original plastic one did by side, it’s basically the same, just a lot longer from front to back. I did decide at one point to go with the loot crate skull mod but that looked too small imo.

I wanted it to be in the same position as the original, which is why I cut the sides so that I could mount it further back and in the same place as the original skull.
It was a bit more work than just cutting the sides as I had to grind some of the inside of the skull away so that the wire form had enough clearance.

That way the wire form could be completely hidden from one side and I could mount right back so you could still see the drop down target when playing.
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#9690 1 year ago
Quoted from MG7322:

Easy to cut and modify for the pin, have to make a bracket underneath to bolt it up. Ran the OE wires to the eyes so they still light up. Fits good with no clearance issues if you make your hole right. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah thats the exact one I used. Looks awesome.

#9691 1 year ago
Quoted from AD72:

That looks smaller than the one Dna127 used. I guess there are variants of that Nemesis T-800.

No, I think it is the same. I think the photos I took make it look larger that it actually is.

IMO the Nemesis skull is perfect for the game as it has the right quality and detail along with it being a good size to make it the focal point of the playfield which I think the original was always lacking.

#9692 1 year ago

Don't you have to have one locked in the skull other

Quoted from Ant-H:

Initially as a complete skull it is far too long to fit as is due to it being a complete skull. But in terms of height and width when compared to the original plastic one did by side, it’s basically the same, just a lot longer from front to back. I did decide at one point to go with the loot crate skull mod but that looked too small imo.
I wanted it to be in the same position as the original, which is why I cut the sides so that I could mount it further back and in the same place as the original skull.
It was a bit more work than just cutting the sides as I had to grind some of the inside of the skull away so that the wire form had enough clearance.
That way the wire form could be completely hidden from one side and I could mount right back so you could still see the drop down target when playing.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome!

A friend gave me a bunch Terminator memorabilia and the loot crate skull was included. I thought about using it but I agree that it’s just a bit too small

#9693 1 year ago
Quoted from Ant-H:

No, I think it is the same. I think the photos I took make it look larger that it actually is.
IMO the Nemesis skull is perfect for the game as it has the right quality and detail along with it being a good size to make it the focal point of the playfield which I think the original was always lacking.

Thank you! Ordered one. Do you have an outline for the bracket you fabricated to mount the jaw you could share?

#9694 1 year ago

Good afternoon all. I brought my T2 out of storage today. It was only there for a few months. When the game powers on, the cannon cycles with no end. Only when I open the coin door and hit the enter button does it stop. Everytime i turn the game on all the settings have been erased and i have to start the process over. Replaced the batteries...same issue. Other than that, everything plays and works great....until its turned off and back on again. Need some wisdom from the group!

#9695 1 year ago
Quoted from Joeynelyse:

Good afternoon all. I brought my T2 out of storage today. It was only there for a few months. When the game powers on, the cannon cycles with no end. Only when I open the coin door and hit the enter button does it stop. Everytime i turn the game on all the settings have been erased and i have to start the process over. Replaced the batteries...same issue. Other than that, everything plays and works great....until its turned off and back on again. Need some wisdom from the group!

Let it cycle for a long time. It's normal for it to go through about as many as 20 or 30 cycles until it's satisfied that it knows exactly how the gun is moving. Once it does that once, it will remember that as long as the batteries are holding data between powerups.

If that doesn't help, then you've got something wrong with the "gun home position" switch, try testing that individually in the switch test.

#9696 1 year ago

Im restoring a T2 i got the other day. What are most of you using for GI? Frosted cool white or clear cool white?

#9697 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Im restoring a T2 i got the other day. What are most of you using for GI? Frosted cool white or clear cool white?

I use comet frosted sunlight for all my GI.

6E35BCCF-E5CA-4604-AC3F-1678556CECC6 (resized).jpeg6E35BCCF-E5CA-4604-AC3F-1678556CECC6 (resized).jpeg
#9698 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

What are most of you using for GI?

Comet warm white, just posted a pic a few days ago just a few posts up on this page of the thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/194#post-7355932

#9699 1 year ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

Comet warm white, just posted a pic a few days ago just a few posts up on this page of the thread.

Thank you. I saw that. Im going to try and go with the the cool white look or a blueish/purplish white look. Kinda like the look in this scene. No clown puke. We shall see. I ordered a bunch of different option from Comet. Thanks for the imput.

Screenshot 2023-01-22 at 9.35.29 AM (resized).pngScreenshot 2023-01-22 at 9.35.29 AM (resized).png
#9700 1 year ago

I’ve been on a mission to figure out a way to adjust the T2 kickback to feed into the rollovers and pop bumpers every time. Not sure if SR originally designed it to, but I feel it only makes logical sense… (E.G. Getaway kickback into the mountain). In fact, most T2 owners say their kickback just feeds into the chase loop and falls right back down. Well I finally got it to work 100% of the time.

I replaced the kickback coil, plunger, and return spring (not sure if you would have to, but I did it before I figured out the solution). Basically, I installed 2 small thin washers under the red screws and 1 under the yellow screw in between the coil bracket and PF. Also, the coil needs to be adjusted as far left as possible without the plunger hitting the bend out in the side rail right before the coil. The idea is that the plunger hits the ball at dead center along with pushing it left for a smooth feed along the kickback left guide rail.

Under the cannon, There’s 2 screws on the side rail that need to be removed (marked in blue). Lightly hand bend this side rail towards the right, flexing it towards the cannon base and GI Bulb (green arrow). Unfortunately in order for this to work, you have to leave those 2 screws out to allow the guide rail to essentially flex during the impact. After bending the rail to the right, I tried drilling new holes in the PF and screwing the rail back in using the newly drilled holes, but unfortunately it doesn’t work…. it acts like a solid wall and doesn’t allow the ball to move up into the chase loop. The rail must be able to lightly flex to mitigate and sponge the impact. I’m not really concerned about PF wear along the rail, as it barely moves when the ball impacts it anyways. Worst case, maybe I’ll put a thin strip of Mylar under the side rail.
Good luck!

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$ 329.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
5,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Lawrenceburg, IN
$ 259.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 99.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 9.95
$ 49.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
 
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
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