(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

11 years ago


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#9601 1 year ago

Need some help guys.

Right flipper engages when you hit the start button (not when you just turn it on) so I looked underneath and found the right diode connection in the the first picture below had broken, probably due to vibrations over time. So I replaced both diodes thinking this would solve the issue, however it still does it. It’s my understanding that T2 flippers are engaged solely through switches and that there are no transistors involved, so looking around the only other thing I found is in the second picture, which looks like a possibly damaged ceramic disc capacitor (.1 uF 500V).

So could this be causing my issue and can I test it in circuit or does it have to come out? Also, how do I test it? I’m pretty sure I can play without in the short term but I wanted to get some help before I start snipping and cutting.

A little history; I replaced the cabinet leaf switch a few months ago and it started locking on because it was making contact with the plunger, which managed to burn through a few fuses before I figured it out. It may have damaged the capacitor then but that wouldn't explain why it isn’t working now. Also, I don’t think it’s coincidence the diode connection and capacitor broke at the same time (if capacitor is actually broken)

Update: just found out the left flipper activates the plunger so now I'm completely lost.

4AEFB7F2-8FF2-445C-8AE3-998D55A5EBCB (resized).jpeg4AEFB7F2-8FF2-445C-8AE3-998D55A5EBCB (resized).jpeg51EE8422-A537-4B0A-9B99-F9BB4EEA47F2 (resized).jpeg51EE8422-A537-4B0A-9B99-F9BB4EEA47F2 (resized).jpeg

#9602 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

Need some help guys.
Right flipper engages when you hit the start button (not when you just turn it on) so I looked underneath and found the right diode connection in the the first picture below had broken, probably due to vibrations over time. So I replaced both diodes thinking this would solve the issue, however it still does it. It’s my understanding that T2 flippers are engaged solely through switches and that there are no transistors involved, so looking around the only other thing I found is in the second picture, which looks like a possibly damaged ceramic disc capacitor (.1 uF 500V).
So could this be causing my issue and can I test it in circuit or does it have to come out? Also, how do I test it? I’m pretty sure I can play without in the short term but I wanted to get some help before I start snipping and cutting.
A little history; I replaced the cabinet leaf switch a few months ago and it started locking on because it was making contact with the plunger, which managed to burn through a few fuses before I figured it out. It may have damaged the capacitor then but that wouldn't explain why it isn’t working now. Also, I don’t think it’s coincidence the diode connection and capacitor broke at the same time (if capacitor is actually broken)
Update: just found out the left flipper activates the plunger so now I'm completely lost.
[quoted image][quoted image]

With T2 (pre-fliptronics) the 50V power goes through the flipper button leaf switch. However the flippers can only work when the relay is active, which is enabled when you start a game - this is why with your issue the flipper only engages when you hit the start button. Therefore you have a short through your flipper button leaf switch - for example the leaf switch is permanently close, or you have a dead short through the capacitor, or those wires are shorted somewhere else.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Using a DMM (with the machine turned off) you can do a connectivity test between the 2 lugs on the leaf switch. If shorted (which is suspected), unsolder the capacitor and retest it should now be open. Then test the capacitor to confirm it's shorted and needs to be replaced.

Note the current solder connection on the leaf switch isn't great - here's a great thread on soldering that helped me when I first started out https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1

As for the issue with the left flipper activating the plunger, that sounds like a diode issue (either failure or installed backwards) which will cause multiple switch activations in the switch matrix. Check out this video which will help you identify the switch/diode with the issue

#9603 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

With T2 (pre-fliptronics) the 50V power goes through the flipper button leaf switch. However the flippers can only work when the relay is active, which is enabled when you start a game - this is why with your issue the flipper only engages when you hit the start button. Therefore you have a short through your flipper button leaf switch - for example the leaf switch is permanently close, or you have a dead short through the capacitor, or those wires are shorted somewhere else.
[quoted image]
Using a DMM (with the machine turned off) you can do a connectivity test between the 2 lugs on the leaf switch. If shorted (which is suspected), unsolder the capacitor and retest it should now be open. Then test the capacitor to confirm it's shorted and needs to be replaced.
Note the current solder connection on the leaf switch isn't great - here's a great thread on soldering that helped me when I first started out https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1
As for the issue with the left flipper activating the plunger, that sounds like a diode issue (either failure or installed backwards) which will cause multiple switch activations in the switch matrix. Check out this video which will help you identify the switch/diode with the issue

Thanks Manny! Really appreciate your help and information.

Did the connectivity test and removing the capacitor fixed all the issues, which brings up several different questions.

Do you think the diode wire break caused the capacitor to go bad? Game was working fine until the other day.

Also, the left flipper no longer activates the plunger. Looking at the switch matrix video it seems possible that the capacitor was also causing that, imitating a diode failure in a way.

Game is working good again but I’m going to replace the capacitor anyway, looks like it’s not absolutely necessary but will prevent excessive fouling of the flipper switch contacts.

#9604 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

Thanks Manny! Really appreciate your help and information.
Did the connectivity test and removing the capacitor fixed all the issues, which brings up several different questions.
Do you think the diode wire break caused the capacitor to go bad? Game was working fine until the other day.
Also, the left flipper no longer activates the plunger. Looking at the switch matrix video it seems possible that the capacitor was also causing that, imitating a diode failure in a way.
Game is working good again but I’m going to replace the capacitor anyway, looks like it’s not absolutely necessary but will prevent excessive fouling of the flipper switch contacts.

Yes you should replace the capacitor as it is there to reduce sparking and possible damage to the flipper switch contacts.

Unsure that the original diode issue would have caused the flipper switch's capacitor to fail, although electronics at that level is not my strong point.

I'm struggling to see the connection between the flipper switches and the plunger being activated ... that said it's good to hear that you've identified the failed component causing the issue.

#9605 1 year ago

Quick question guys, restoring a T2 and one of the riveted metal tabs to the clear ramp plastics (Skynet) is broken, I know Marco has sold them in the past but I can't find them. Anyone know where to purchase them now? Thanks!

#9606 1 year ago
Quoted from truemagoo102:

Quick question guys, restoring a T2 and one of the riveted metal tabs to the clear ramp plastics (Skynet) is broken, I know Marco has sold them in the past but I can't find them. Anyone know where to purchase them now? Thanks!

Skynet ramp has 2 different rivets - I think the chrome rivet is used on the top for the wireform and the nickel rivet used on the ramp flap. Both use the same washer. This is from the Parts List that you can download from IPDB

07-6688-19A rivet 7/32X1/8 chrome
07-6688-22N rivet 5/16X1/8 nickel
4700-00003-00 fw .125X.281X.032

Marco has these in stock but they are zinc plated, so if you use them you may want to replace both so that they look consistent. From a quick Google, nickel and chrome rivets are available elsewhere if you specifically want those

#9607 1 year ago

Does anyone know where I could find a set of chrome target decals?

#9608 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Skynet ramp has 2 different rivets - I think the chrome rivet is used on the top for the wireform and the nickel rivet used on the ramp flap. Both use the same washer. This is from the Parts List that you can download from IPDB
07-6688-19A rivet 7/32X1/8 chrome
07-6688-22N rivet 5/16X1/8 nickel
4700-00003-00 fw .125X.281X.032
Marco has these in stock but they are zinc plated, so if you use them you may want to replace both so that they look consistent. From a quick Google, nickel and chrome rivets are available elsewhere if you specifically want those

Thank you! Actually I have a set of rivets but I'm looking for the metal link that the plastic is riveted on to, if that makes sense.

#9609 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I'm struggling to see the connection between the flipper switches and the plunger being activated ... that said it's good to hear that you've identified the failed component causing the issue.

I jumped the gun on this. I thought I had it fixed until I was putting it back together and when I started a game it did it again, and it's not just the left it's both. I went through the switch test to see if I could see it on the screen but I couldn't replicate it. When I started a new game it wouldn't do it. Long story short it seems to do it only when it's cold, after it warms up it behaves normal. My next move is to look for shorts and the diodes on the related components in the switch matrix (video was a big help, thanks), seems like there is just a bad connection somewhere.

#9610 1 year ago
Quoted from truemagoo102:

Thank you! Actually I have a set of rivets but I'm looking for the metal link that the plastic is riveted on to, if that makes sense.

Are you talking about the ramp flap https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10096

If you're after the bracket hanger 01-10095 (the metal bracket riveted on the top of the ramp), then might be harder to find as a single part - maybe pick up a used ramp that'll have one or replace the ramp entirely with a new ramp (that includes both the ramp flap and bracket hanger).

#9611 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

I jumped the gun on this. I thought I had it fixed until I was putting it back together and when I started a game it did it again, and it's not just the left it's both. I went through the switch test to see if I could see it on the screen but I couldn't replicate it. When I started a new game it wouldn't do it. Long story short it seems to do it only when it's cold, after it warms up it behaves normal. My next move is to look for shorts and the diodes on the related components in the switch matrix (video was a big help, thanks), seems like there is just a bad connection somewhere.

I believe there's a setting that allows you to launch the ball using the flippers buttons - is that turned on?

When it occurs, is it just when there is a ball in the shooter lane? or every time you press the flipper button (regardless where the ball is on the PF)?

#9612 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I believe there's a setting that allows you to launch the ball using the flippers buttons - is that turned on?
When it occurs, is it just when there is a ball in the shooter lane? or every time you press the flipper button (regardless where the ball is on the PF)?

No, I looked at that setting and it's off.

Just when the ball is in the shooter lane, it won't activate after it launches the ball

#9613 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

No, I looked at that setting and it's off.
Just when the ball is in the shooter lane, it won't activate after it launches the ball

What version of s/w are you running?

#9614 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Are you talking about the ramp flap https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10096
If you're after the bracket hanger 01-10095 (the metal bracket riveted on the top of the ramp), then might be harder to find as a single part - maybe pick up a used ramp that'll have one or replace the ramp entirely with a new ramp (that includes both the ramp flap and bracket hanger).

Yeah the metal hanger bracket hanger is what I'm out for. At least I have the part number so that helps.

#9615 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

What version of s/w are you running?

Does this look right?

23E26DD6-04BF-48B5-BB05-581BED741454 (resized).jpeg23E26DD6-04BF-48B5-BB05-581BED741454 (resized).jpeg
#9616 1 year ago

Looks good, but the software is... old.

#9617 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

Does this look right?[quoted image]

Yes that version shouldn't be causing any issues ... maybe try a factory reset just to make sure.

The other thing is to check the solder joints for cracking or poor connections - the solder should be smooth and nicely formed. If the problem disappears as the game warms up, this could point to a poor connection somewhere (like the solder joints on the flipper button leaf switch you posted earlier - not being critical, just trying to give you pointers as to what could be the problem and what to look for).

Hope this helps

#9618 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yes that version shouldn't be causing any issues ... maybe try a factory reset just to make sure.
The other thing is to check the solder joints for cracking or poor connections - the solder should be smooth and nicely formed. If the problem disappears as the game warms up, this could point to a poor connection somewhere (like the solder joints on the flipper button leaf switch you posted earlier - not being critical, just trying to give you pointers as to what could be the problem and what to look for).
Hope this helps

I appreciate your help and I'm glad you linked me to the solder thread. My approach to soldering was all wrong because I honestly didn't know what I was doing. I see a lot of redoes in my future.

#9619 1 year ago

Anyone have a gun calibration procedure? My gun off slightly causing the ball not to roll into it (gets stuck on the wire form). Seems like it can’t find the home position all of a sudden. If it does the self calibration the game will play fine the rest of the night. Also before I do the self calibration during multi-ball it will just rotate back and forth and not go home. (Screwing up my multiball event of course)

Going to dig into this today. Thanks in advance for guidance.

#9620 1 year ago
Quoted from MG7322:

Anyone have a gun calibration procedure? My gun off slightly causing the ball not to roll into it (gets stuck on the wire form). Seems like it can’t find the home position all of a sudden. If it does the self calibration the game will play fine the rest of the night. Also before I do the self calibration during multi-ball it will just rotate back and forth and not go home. (Screwing up my multiball event of course)
Going to dig into this today. Thanks in advance for guidance.

I don't know what you mean by self-calibration but I had more or less the same problem. Most likely the “home” switch is out of position making contact with the cam too early or the switch isn’t working properly, so I would pull the cam out, confirm both switches are working in switch test and clean them with an electrical cleaner, re-install the cam then move the home switch to a better contact position. Make very small adjustments, I had a hard time lining mine up and it's frustrating because you have to check it every time you adjust but I would start with this

#9621 1 year ago

Ok! That’s a place to start

#9622 1 year ago

Not pinball but just built this model. 13 pounds.

30B961AF-29C4-46F4-9429-A8A38F096EBB (resized).jpeg30B961AF-29C4-46F4-9429-A8A38F096EBB (resized).jpeg8241007D-FEDB-4FE7-9164-2BB96EC710E4 (resized).jpeg8241007D-FEDB-4FE7-9164-2BB96EC710E4 (resized).jpeg
#9623 1 year ago

Reporting back, those switches just needed some very fine tuning. Adjust and check, adjust and check. In summary look at those switches and understand how they work on test mode.

#9624 1 year ago

Just wondering if anyone has a version of the pinsound track they might be willing to share which adds GNR you could be mine and Bad to the Bone into the pinsound soundtrack - ideally has the FUA sound in there also for the new Averell rom version but either way would be great. . Let me know if you have this and willing to share .

#9625 1 year ago

Finally joining the club!

Got my T2 as a "DYI kit" from my friend He partially dismantled the game in his workshop some time ago and then realized that he doesn't have time/patience to clean and fix the game. So I got some cardboard boxes, put everything I could find in them and took it home. Some parts might be missing, the cabinet is not in best shape, but the playfield is decent and the game at least boots. It's going to be interesting adventure for sure, but he will be back

IMG_3326s (resized).jpgIMG_3326s (resized).jpgIMG_3328s (resized).jpgIMG_3328s (resized).jpg
#9626 1 year ago
Quoted from Isac:

Finally joining the club!
Got my T2 as a "DYI kit" from my friend He partially dismantled the game in his workshop some time ago and then realized that he doesn't have time/patience to clean and fix the game. So I got some cardboard boxes, put everything I could find in them and took it home. Some parts might be missing, the cabinet is not in best shape, but the playfield is decent and the game at least boots. It's going to be interesting adventure for sure, but he will be back
[quoted image][quoted image]

This documented teardown might be useful http://creamyeagle.blogspot.com/2014/05/terminator-2-pinball-tear-down.html

If you've got any questions, just post them here

#9627 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

This documented teardown might be useful http://creamyeagle.blogspot.com/2014/05/terminator-2-pinball-tear-down.html
If you've got any questions, just post them here

That is amazing! Thanks a lot, that's gonna help me for sure. The fact that it has all the screws documented is a life saver. The screws I got are all mixed together in one plastic container

#9628 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

This documented teardown might be useful http://creamyeagle.blogspot.com/2014/05/terminator-2-pinball-tear-down.html
If you've got any questions, just post them here

I haven't read through the whole page but be careful identifying parts based solely on those listings. A cursory glance shows a number of errors right off the bat just on the lower and middle playfield listings, all those #4 machine screws should be #6.

#9629 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I haven't read through the whole page but be careful identifying parts based solely on those listings. A cursory glance shows a number of errors right off the bat just on the lower and middle playfield listings, all those #4 machine screws should be #6.

Yes good catch and thanks for the heads up

Quoted from Isac:

That is amazing! Thanks a lot, that's gonna help me for sure. The fact that it has all the screws documented is a life saver. The screws I got are all mixed together in one plastic container

As per jibmums comment, don't take the teardown details as gospel as the op might have made mistakes and/or items might not reflect how the machine originally rolled off the production line; that said it is a good starting point. I cross reference everything with the parts list and the manual (both are downloadable from IPDB) to confirm and get the B/W part number to source any missing components.

#9630 1 year ago

Curious, are there any specific LED lighting kits you folks feel stand above the rest? The game I purchased came with LEDs but I'm not loving the color layout. I recently added a blue LED strip to the top of the back panel and was surprised to see how UV reflective the paint is on the plastics and playfield! I really love these neon accents and would like to incorporate a setup that accentuates these features, but I also don't want to create a "blue monster" if you catch my drift! Any help (and photos of solid setups!) would be appreciated, thanks!

#9631 1 year ago
Quoted from atg1469:

Curious, are there any specific LED lighting kits you folks feel stand above the rest? The game I purchased came with LEDs but I'm not loving the color layout. I recently added a blue LED strip to the top of the back panel and was surprised to see how UV reflective the paint is on the plastics and playfield! I really love these neon accents and would like to incorporate a setup that accentuates these features, but I also don't want to create a "blue monster" if you catch my drift! Any help (and photos of solid setups!) would be appreciated, thanks!

For the most part I like white LED's for the GI and color matching for the inserts. I bought this kit from Comet and I'm pretty happy with it

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/terminator-2-led-kit

#9632 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

For the most part I like white LED's for the GI and color matching for the inserts. I bought this kit from Comet and I'm pretty happy with it
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/terminator-2-led-kit

Did you keep the incan flashers or go LED on those too?

#9633 1 year ago
Quoted from tripplett:

Did you keep the incan flashers or go LED on those too?

The only place I kept incandescents is in the hot dog. Flashers there were too bright and distracting, they're good everywhere else. I really like the way the cannon action looks with it's LED flasher and also the game over sequence when everything is dark and only the flashers are in operation.

#9634 1 year ago
Quoted from atg1469:

Curious, are there any specific LED lighting kits you folks feel stand above the rest? The game I purchased came with LEDs but I'm not loving the color layout. I recently added a blue LED strip to the top of the back panel and was surprised to see how UV reflective the paint is on the plastics and playfield! I really love these neon accents and would like to incorporate a setup that accentuates these features, but I also don't want to create a "blue monster" if you catch my drift! Any help (and photos of solid setups!) would be appreciated, thanks!

This is probably the most divisive topic in all pinball!

My two cents: It's your game - feel free to experiment and do what you want.
My (more detailed) two cents - I have a pretty decent collection of W/B pins, and I almost always use some version of white for the GI and I have migrated from using matching colored LED's for the inserts (I mostly just use white there as well). My BIG exception is T2. I love the glowing florescent rings in the game and I don't think the artwork is all that great otherwise (not an easy thing to admit on a T2 forum page). So for those reasons I just went ahead and did blue "clown puke" lights on this one to try it out with the intension of going back to cool white at some point... but I never did. So my TOTAN sitting right next to it glows in all warm white, and the IJ on the other side is all sunlight white... but the T2 sitting between them looks completely menacing with it's blue light and florescent highlights... I love it!

<Picture not added due to expected backlash>

#9635 1 year ago
Quoted from EStroh:

This is probably the most divisive topic in all pinball!
My two cents: It's your game - feel free to experiment and do what you want.
My (more detailed) two cents - I have a pretty decent collection of W/B pins, and I almost always use some version of white for the GI and I have migrated from using matching colored LED's for the inserts (I mostly just use white there as well). My BIG exception is T2. I love the glowing florescent rings in the game and I don't think the artwork is all that great otherwise (not an easy thing to admit on a T2 forum page). So for those reasons I just went ahead and did blue "clown puke" lights on this one to try it out with the intension of going back to cool white at some point... but I never did. So my TOTAN sitting right next to it glows in all warm white, and the IJ on the other side is all sunlight white... but the T2 sitting between them looks completely menacing with it's blue light and florescent highlights... I love it!
<Picture not added due to expected backlash>

I want to see this beast! Can you DM me some pics please?!

#9636 1 year ago
Quoted from EStroh:

This is probably the most divisive topic in all pinball!
My two cents: It's your game - feel free to experiment and do what you want.
My (more detailed) two cents - I have a pretty decent collection of W/B pins, and I almost always use some version of white for the GI and I have migrated from using matching colored LED's for the inserts (I mostly just use white there as well). My BIG exception is T2. I love the glowing florescent rings in the game and I don't think the artwork is all that great otherwise (not an easy thing to admit on a T2 forum page). So for those reasons I just went ahead and did blue "clown puke" lights on this one to try it out with the intension of going back to cool white at some point... but I never did. So my TOTAN sitting right next to it glows in all warm white, and the IJ on the other side is all sunlight white... but the T2 sitting between them looks completely menacing with it's blue light and florescent highlights... I love it!
<Picture not added due to expected backlash>

Let's see this blueberry!

#9637 1 year ago

Oh crap I'm going to be crucified for this post but here's my "clown puke" T2.

In my defense this is the only pin I've done this to... I otherwise HATE anything other than white in the GI's. I also a have a Pinsound Rammstein mix running on this pin (that I created) as well as a shaker and a TON of mods. You really have to play it to appreciate the adrenaline rush - personally, I play it more than any other pin than I have here (stock looking AFM, TOTAN, TZ, IJ, TNA, W20, etc).

I'm sure 95% of the folks reading this are climbing the walls right now (so sorry). But hey, it's my favorite pin and I'm NEVER going to sell it!

IMG_3058 (resized).jpgIMG_3058 (resized).jpgIMG_3083 (resized).jpgIMG_3083 (resized).jpg

#9638 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yes good catch and thanks for the heads up

As per jibmums comment, don't take the teardown details as gospel as the op might have made mistakes and/or items might not reflect how the machine originally rolled off the production line; that said it is a good starting point. I cross reference everything with the parts list and the manual (both are downloadable from IPDB) to confirm and get the B/W part number to source any missing components.

I will try to double-check what I can. Friends that operate pinball machines in my local arcade have several T2s in their collection, so that's gonna be my safety net when I get lost

#9639 1 year ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Oh crap I'm going to be crucified for this post but here's my "clown puke" T2.

Well that will definitely stand out in a lineup! Many years ago I experimented with some blue GI, but found it so dull I couldn't see the ball nearly as well. Is that a problem for you?

#9640 1 year ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Oh crap I'm going to be crucified for this post but here's my "clown puke" T2.
In my defense this is the only pin I've done this to... I otherwise HATE anything other than white in the GI's. I also a have a Pinsound Rammstein mix running on this pin (that I created) as well as a shaker and a TON of mods. You really have to play it to appreciate the adrenaline rush - personally, I play it more than any other pin than I have here (stock looking AFM, TOTAN, TZ, IJ, TNA, W20, etc).
I'm sure 95% of the folks reading this are climbing the walls right now (so sorry). But hey, it's my favorite pin and I'm NEVER going to sell it!
[quoted image][quoted image]

So umm.... that's pretty awesome, I bet it looks even better in person.

My T2 had a rough former life and isn't in the best condition cosmetically but still flips pretty good, so I've unwisely spent a lot of money dressing it up, but now it actually presents pretty good in my line-up. I think LED's made the biggest difference visually but making my own soundtrack for it would be incredible, so how did you do that? I'm sure it's been covered a hundred times so if you can just direct me to a thread or give me some key words it would be much appreciated.

#9641 1 year ago

Have any of you that used one of the reproduction plastic ramps had an issue with it fitting in your game. I have a starship fantasy ramp (I believe he makes the repros that PP and Marco sells if I am not mistaking). I can’t get the ramp to fit into the game it seems too tight and sits about 1/4 inch higher than the posts that you screw it into down by the front of the ramp. Am I going crazy here?

#9642 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

making my own soundtrack for it would be incredible, so how did you do that? I'm sure it's been covered a hundred times so if you can just direct me to a thread or give me some key words it would be much appreciated.

It's just a Pinsound board (with a Pinsound shaker in it as well). The long version of how this is done can be found here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tantrums-guide-to-pinsound/page/3

But in short, it's fairly easy. Go to the Pinsound site and download one of the T2 sound packages... maybe the original one to start with. The file and folder structure is pretty straightforward and intuitive. All you really need to do is replace the "stock" .wav sound file with your own replacement .wav file(s) for each sound you want to change. Getting the music cut where you want and setting audio levels when you create the .wav files is the time consuming part. I use Audacity for this. If you want to share your results with others you can load it up on the Pinsound website. I've made about 8 versions for Getaway (including Van Halen, the music from John Wick, etc) and some for a few for other pins as well. There really aren't too many music files in a T2 pin to deal with (about a quarter as many as are in a Twilight Zone).

#9643 1 year ago
Quoted from dmieczko:

Well that will definitely stand out in a lineup! Many years ago I experimented with some blue GI, but found it so dull I couldn't see the ball nearly as well. Is that a problem for you?

It actually doesn't look this blue in person. But no, it's easy to track the ball.

#9644 1 year ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Oh crap I'm going to be crucified for this post but here's my "clown puke" T2.
In my defense this is the only pin I've done this to... I otherwise HATE anything other than white in the GI's. I also a have a Pinsound Rammstein mix running on this pin (that I created) as well as a shaker and a TON of mods. You really have to play it to appreciate the adrenaline rush - personally, I play it more than any other pin than I have here (stock looking AFM, TOTAN, TZ, IJ, TNA, W20, etc).
I'm sure 95% of the folks reading this are climbing the walls right now (so sorry). But hey, it's my favorite pin and I'm NEVER going to sell it!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I think it looks awesome (and very similar to mine!) No clown puke there.

#9645 1 year ago
Quoted from chrishoyle99:

Just wondering if anyone has a version of the pinsound track they might be willing to share which adds GNR you could be mine and Bad to the Bone into the pinsound soundtrack - ideally has the FUA sound in there also for the new Averell rom version but either way would be great. . Let me know if you have this and willing to share .

You can easily put in a sound into the matching music folder.
Convert that sound to .ogg and name it as shown in the picture below.
PinSound will play the sounds randomly.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#9646 1 year ago
Quoted from Averell:

You can easily put in a sound into the matching music folder.
Convert that sound to .ogg and name it as shown in the picture below.
PinSound will play the sounds randomly.
[quoted image]

Thanks Averell, sounds like some fun extra sounds could be added with YouTube to .ogg converter

Are you saying to name a new file to replace Terminator main theme 2 or that you can add a Terminator main theme 3 , 4 and so on which will be played randomly -
Also is there a limit to the length of the file?
Does it need to fade in / out?

Many thanks Averell

#9647 1 year ago

EStroh What are the HK and figure mods you have there? I just got a T2 and it is all stock. Lighting looks good!

#9648 1 year ago

Here's what my T2 looked like before I sold it last year. Used Comet Ice Blue bulbs throughout playfield and color matched bulbs in the inserts.

20220622_203802 (resized).jpg20220622_203802 (resized).jpg

#9649 1 year ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Oh crap I'm going to be crucified for this post

For the public record, I've seen his T2 in person and it is the most beautiful thing I've seen.

#9650 1 year ago
Quoted from mycarlooksfast:

Here's what my T2 looked like before I sold it last year. Used Comet Ice Blue bulbs throughout playfield and color matched bulbs in the inserts.
[quoted image]

Do you happen to remember what T800 skull you were using in this setup? I'm trying to make my own but I think it will be too big for the space and yours seems to fit more appropriately.

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