I've seen this before and it was a broken ground wire on one of the coin switches.
(Topic ID: 27799)
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Quoted from Br81zad:My T2 is doing a fun trick now.
The coin mechs aren't registering credits and the test/menu buttons aren't registering (so i can't even set it to free play).
Anyone else run into something like that? I've only had time to check a few things:
- Fuses all look good. I even pulled one and powered on the machine, it registered the correct missing fuse during the auto check
- All LEDs on each board are either on/off/flashing as normal with the exception of LED 7 on the Power Driver Board. That one should be 'on', but it isn't
- Oh and the Slam Tilt registers as it should (I was just checking everything on the coin door)
Post a close up pic of the bottom of your mpu
Fisherville, KY
Quoted from loneranger:I've seen this before and it was a broken ground wire on one of the coin switches.
I'd buy that. Next thing I planned to do was get my meter out and see if the controls/coin units were getting power.
Quoted from Br81zad:My T2 is doing a fun trick now.
The coin mechs aren't registering credits and the test/menu buttons aren't registering (so i can't even set it to free play).
Just worked on a Demo Man last week for the same problem . It had the black wires to the coin mech closest to the menu buttons broke loose.
check your wiring.
I should also point out that the orange wire appears to have been snipped intentionally. It is for the left coin switch, (the right and center still work)
Not sure what the benefit of killing a coin door like that is. Wouldn't it be easier just to tape over the slot if it was acting up? Lol
I noticed in Soulrider911 's rebuild that he used double rubber rings in the upper R playfield. Mine are only singles. What was original and what's everyone's recommendations? And any color preference?
08ca15c7b8330ceb417e6c056c868a57d8379459 (resized).jpgQuoted from dtrimberger:I noticed in Soulrider911 's rebuild that he used double rubber rings in the upper R playfield. Mine are only singles. What was original and what's everyone's recommendations? And any color preference? [quoted image]
they should all be double-ringed as the machines came with metal and plastic posts specifically for double rings. Note double ring posts to the left of the upper lanes also.
Quoted from jibmums:they should all be double-ringed as the machines came with metal and plastic posts specifically for double rings. Note double ring posts to the left of the upper lanes also.
[quoted image]
Thanks. And the white looks great. Currently have light blue in my titan cart but that might need to change to white or red.
Anything on the ring chart that isn’t accurate? I’ve been seeing some different numbers between the manual and the titan lists
Melbourne
Quoted from tomaszb1:Does anyone have or can point me in right direction for a new plastic set? Seems like sold out in all the common places…
These are the guys that actually make them (under license) https://www.buthamburg.de/en/playfields-plastics/31-1-50013-terminator-2-playfield-plastic-set
Quoted from Manny65:These are the guys that actually make them (under license) https://www.buthamburg.de/en/playfields-plastics/31-1-50013-terminator-2-playfield-plastic-set
Got a set in from Peter a few months back. Was absolutely perfect. The colors, cut, and quality were spot on.
Quoted from Iamthelaw:Have a weak right flipper, replaced eos and flipper button switch, still weak. Plunger, coil stop and sleeve are alll good, any suggestions?
What condition is the contact points on the flipper button’s leaf switch like?
Quoted from Manny65:What condition is the contact points on the flipper button’s leaf switch like?
I put a new one on so Brand new now, gap seem correct
Quoted from Iamthelaw:Have a weak right flipper, replaced eos and flipper button switch, still weak. Plunger, coil stop and sleeve are alll good, any suggestions?
If all your components are new, did you also clean or replace the bushing that goes through the playfield? The flipper shaft can bind there. Also, did you properly "gap" the flipper when re-tightening the mechanism? You should have a credit-card thickness gap between the flipper bat and the bushing for proper alignment / movement.
I'm in the process of doing a playfield swap and I'm looking to replace my somewhat broken and chipped skull. Any recommendations as to which reproduction to go with? I've searched through the forum and it looks like the answer has changed over the years. Also, are there opinions on this skull:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1253-dystopic-pinball/05222-t800-terminator-2-v2
It looks nice but the price gives me a bit of a pause.
Quoted from dmieczko:If all your components are new, did you also clean or replace the bushing that goes through the playfield? The flipper shaft can bind there. Also, did you properly "gap" the flipper when re-tightening the mechanism? You should have a credit-card thickness gap between the flipper bat and the bushing for proper alignment / movement.
Put a new bushing in, I will have to double check the gap and eos gap tonight, and report back
Quoted from Iamthelaw:Put a new bushing in, I will have to double check the gap and eos gap tonight, and report back
With the power off, manually raise the flipper bat feeling for any resistance or binding, and compare it to the left side (which I believe is behaving properly - right?). Compare the vertical movement of both bats. What's the resistance of the power and hold windings on the coil, and how do they compare to the left flipper coil?
Now with the power on, what's the voltage at the left and right flipper coils?
Quoted from Manny65:With the power off, manually raise the flipper bat feeling for any resistance or binding, and compare it to the left side (which I believe is behaving properly - right?). Compare the vertical movement of both bats. What's the resistance of the power and hold windings on the coil, and how do they compare to the left flipper coil?
Now with the power on, what's the voltage at the left and right flipper coils?
Think my switches were just a little off, adjusted both tonight and she’s back, thanks
Check out the awesome new PowerBladez for T2, by Pingraffix! They are in pre-order now and will be a small, very limited run, so make sure to order now!
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/terminator-2-powerbladez
Quoted from mikespins:Check out the awesome new PowerBladez for T2, by Pingraffix! They are in pre-order now and will be a small, very limited run, so make sure to order now!
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/terminator-2-powerbladez
[quoted image]
I just placed my (pre)order. Once they get 10 orders, they will be produced. These look really cool. I have PowerBladez by PinGraffix in my Munsters and they are awesome. Order now before us NY guys get them all!
Quoted from dtrimberger:Quick led flasher question. Warm or cool white? And SMd or flat top?
Warm gives you the yellow light similar to old-school incandescent. Cool (natural) is a white light, and my overwhelming preference.
As far as style, that depends on where you put it... If its a backbox or PF insert in a light-board, use a flat top... In a dome, sideways mounted PF insert or hidden under a PF plastic, use a tower. In any case, if you feel a particular flasher is too intense with a flat top, use a tower instead.
In some cases, a white flasher looks like crap and washed out in colored inserts, especially inside red & blue domes and inserts, and a color matched flasher is needed. If you're using a bayonet style flasher, Comet's "flex flasher" is best in every PF insert.
The T2 I have has the old incandescents. I have cool whites in my cart right now to replace them so I guess I was looking to see if anyone has a preference in this pin.
I've got cool white in mine and like it. Feels more future-robot-ish to me than the warm white.
It's all subjective though. Not cost effective, but it may be worth just buying some of each to try out for yourself and pick your preference
Quoted from Br81zad:I've got cool white in mine and like it. Feels more future-robot-ish to me than the warm white.
It's all subjective though. Not cost effective, but it may be worth just buying some of each to try out for yourself and pick your preference
Cool white gi with cool white flashers definitely the way to go.
I also went for cool white on my T2. As BR81zad said, the cool white fits the T2 theme the best, in my opinion. I actually still use regular warm white flashers in my Rollergames given that theme, and I like the slower light fade with traditional flashers in that machine versus the quick on/off of the LED flashers.
Hey folks, just picked up a T2 today. Haven't had a Bally/Williams in years. Anyways, I was doing some minor work such as swapping out some LEDs I had on hand and replacing rubber.
After having the playfield up to replace the buttons (start and flipper buttons). I put the PF down and start to play and the cannon doesn't work. I went into switch test mode and all 3 of the switches (2 underneath and 1 on top) seem to work. The motor doesn't even seem to be trying to run. I checked the connections and they seem ok. I noticed a wire underneath the motor (coming out of a green board...red arrow in the pic) not connected to anything but I don't see the other end of this if it were cut. (R2 in the pic attached) Any thoughts?
T2 Cannon (resized).jpgAfter poking around for a bit, that loose wire seems to have been soldered and it wasn't broken. It seems to be a perfect reach for the solder point I am showing in this pic (red arrows). Can someone be so kind as to snap a pic of that board? I want to make sure that is where it is supposed to go. Will post this in the T2 group as well.
T2 Cannon (resized).jpgAfter poking around for a bit, that loose wire seems to have been soldered and it wasn't broken. It seems to be a perfect reach for the solder point I am showing in this pic (red arrows). Can someone be so kind as to snap a pic of that board? I want to make sure that is where it is supposed to go.
T2 Cannon (resized).jpgQuoted from tripplett:I’ll be home in 30 minutes or so and can snap a pic for you
Thanks. I think I found my issue. I don't believe it is the board. No flashers either. So I don't have 12V. Now to find out why. Did I mention it has been many years since I've had a WPC? 
Well I had already taken the pictures. Maybe it will help someone. I don’t have any resistors on R2 or R1. R2 seems to have a jumper.
Looking at the schematic I agree this isn’t your issue. It appears to be a board meant to reduce noise in the circuit.
Quoted from tripplett:Check the fuses?
F111 for flashers, F115 (12v switch) & F116 (12v secondary) for the 12v circuits.
What does the switch tests show? What happens with menu T.12 Gun Test?
Thanks. I also started a thread in the tech forum. Fuses all good. (Pulled and tested). I am not getting 20v at the power driver board's 20v test point. So that seems to be the issue.
Quoted from dinot:Can someone be so kind as to snap a pic of that board? I want to make sure that is where it is supposed to go.
[quoted image]
Here's a pic of mine with a new (and correct) resistor soldered in.
Quoted from jibmums:Here's a pic of mine with a new (and correct) resistor soldered in.
[quoted image]
Thank you for the pic.
Mine looks like it was hacked up. But it was working for a while. I no longer have 20v at my power driver board so as bad as a soldering job I have on mine, I think the power driver board is the issue. (and hopefully only issue)
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This is sold.
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Have a “one of a kind” T2 Banner that will look awesome by your machine or hanging on a door.
The banner is a little smaller than a Stern banner. Including a picture of a stern Godzilla banner and a Rick and Morty banner as an example of the size. The Rick and Morty banner is the same size as the T2 banner.
$175 plus $10 to ship in the US.
PM me if interested.
844C6714-64AE-4DEA-94F2-0FB3523A677C (resized).pngCD35F378-E542-4696-B402-9B459CCD02AC (resized).jpeg
Sold.
Have a playfield glass dust cover for T2.
$30 includes shipping in the US.
Pm me if interested.
1244FFD5-37B0-424D-9229-19110E8DD61D (resized).jpeg29EF154B-1C62-4BAA-8B4E-EA32D261C484 (resized).jpeg7FCAE5A7-19EA-44E6-87EA-6A6967076A7B (resized).jpegC91757C3-0038-4507-B7CE-0B66E8AB54EB (resized).jpeg************
This is sold.
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Have Bright Mods speaker light kit for T2. Brand new.
$35 shipped in the US
Pm me if interested.
7F16FB16-F52B-47C9-B6FC-1F4925023339 (resized).jpegC343D440-2375-41DF-A970-E71CABAEF825 (resized).jpeg
Sold.
Need help. Restoring a T2 that was operator owned and set for 15+ years. The scull has a diod in it but does not show one In the manual. The diod drops the voltage to 2 volts so at the least it’s in backwards. Is it supposed to be there?
image (resized).jpgQuoted from legotech1:Need help. Restoring a T2 that was operator owned and set for 15+ years. The scull has a diod in it but does not show one In the manual. The diod drops the voltage to 2 volts so at the least it’s in backwards. Is it supposed to be there?
[quoted image]
Here's pics of mine, hope this helps. Looks like yours is wired the same as mine but swapped left-to-right.
101_1244 (resized).JPG101_1246 (resized).JPG
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