(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

10 years ago


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  • 9,475 posts
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  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by Luckdragon100
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There are 9,475 posts in this topic. You are on page 189 of 190.
#9401 34 days ago

I've seen this before and it was a broken ground wire on one of the coin switches.

#9402 34 days ago
Quoted from Br81zad:

My T2 is doing a fun trick now.
The coin mechs aren't registering credits and the test/menu buttons aren't registering (so i can't even set it to free play).
Anyone else run into something like that? I've only had time to check a few things:
- Fuses all look good. I even pulled one and powered on the machine, it registered the correct missing fuse during the auto check
- All LEDs on each board are either on/off/flashing as normal with the exception of LED 7 on the Power Driver Board. That one should be 'on', but it isn't
- Oh and the Slam Tilt registers as it should (I was just checking everything on the coin door)

Post a close up pic of the bottom of your mpu

#9403 34 days ago
Quoted from loneranger:

I've seen this before and it was a broken ground wire on one of the coin switches.

I'd buy that. Next thing I planned to do was get my meter out and see if the controls/coin units were getting power.

#9404 34 days ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Post a close up pic of the bottom of your mpu

I'm on daddy duty for a couple hours, but I'll take one as soon as I can

#9405 34 days ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Post a close up pic of the bottom of your mpu

What are we looking for?

20221029_204521 (resized).jpg20221029_204604 (resized).jpg
#9406 33 days ago

Looks clean

#9407 33 days ago

L8.3

#9408 33 days ago
Quoted from Br81zad:

My T2 is doing a fun trick now.

The coin mechs aren't registering credits and the test/menu buttons aren't registering (so i can't even set it to free play).

Just worked on a Demo Man last week for the same problem . It had the black wires to the coin mech closest to the menu buttons broke loose.

check your wiring.

#9409 33 days ago

Found a loose ground pin and I'm back in business

Profanity turned on (big thanks to Averell and loneranger for L8.3), and back on free play.
20221030_102542 (resized).jpg20221030_102607 (resized).jpg

#9410 33 days ago

I should also point out that the orange wire appears to have been snipped intentionally. It is for the left coin switch, (the right and center still work)

Not sure what the benefit of killing a coin door like that is. Wouldn't it be easier just to tape over the slot if it was acting up? Lol

#9411 32 days ago

I noticed in Soulrider911 's rebuild that he used double rubber rings in the upper R playfield. Mine are only singles. What was original and what's everyone's recommendations? And any color preference?

08ca15c7b8330ceb417e6c056c868a57d8379459 (resized).jpg
#9412 32 days ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

I noticed in Soulrider911 's rebuild that he used double rubber rings in the upper R playfield. Mine are only singles. What was original and what's everyone's recommendations? And any color preference? [quoted image]

they should all be double-ringed as the machines came with metal and plastic posts specifically for double rings. Note double ring posts to the left of the upper lanes also.

101_1217 (resized).JPG

#9413 32 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

they should all be double-ringed as the machines came with metal and plastic posts specifically for double rings. Note double ring posts to the left of the upper lanes also.
[quoted image]

Thanks. And the white looks great. Currently have light blue in my titan cart but that might need to change to white or red.

Anything on the ring chart that isn’t accurate? I’ve been seeing some different numbers between the manual and the titan lists

#9414 31 days ago

Does anyone have or can point me in right direction for a new plastic set? Seems like sold out in all the common places…

#9415 31 days ago
Quoted from tomaszb1:

Does anyone have or can point me in right direction for a new plastic set? Seems like sold out in all the common places…

These are the guys that actually make them (under license) https://www.buthamburg.de/en/playfields-plastics/31-1-50013-terminator-2-playfield-plastic-set

#9416 30 days ago

Have a weak right flipper, replaced eos and flipper button switch, still weak. Plunger, coil stop and sleeve are alll good, any suggestions?

#9417 30 days ago

Got a set in from Peter a few months back. Was absolutely perfect. The colors, cut, and quality were spot on.

#9418 30 days ago
Quoted from Iamthelaw:

Have a weak right flipper, replaced eos and flipper button switch, still weak. Plunger, coil stop and sleeve are alll good, any suggestions?

What condition is the contact points on the flipper button’s leaf switch like?

#9419 30 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

What condition is the contact points on the flipper button’s leaf switch like?

I put a new one on so Brand new now, gap seem correct

#9420 30 days ago
Quoted from Iamthelaw:

Have a weak right flipper, replaced eos and flipper button switch, still weak. Plunger, coil stop and sleeve are alll good, any suggestions?

If all your components are new, did you also clean or replace the bushing that goes through the playfield? The flipper shaft can bind there. Also, did you properly "gap" the flipper when re-tightening the mechanism? You should have a credit-card thickness gap between the flipper bat and the bushing for proper alignment / movement.

#9421 30 days ago

I'm in the process of doing a playfield swap and I'm looking to replace my somewhat broken and chipped skull. Any recommendations as to which reproduction to go with? I've searched through the forum and it looks like the answer has changed over the years. Also, are there opinions on this skull:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1253-dystopic-pinball/05222-t800-terminator-2-v2

It looks nice but the price gives me a bit of a pause.

#9422 30 days ago
Quoted from dmieczko:

If all your components are new, did you also clean or replace the bushing that goes through the playfield? The flipper shaft can bind there. Also, did you properly "gap" the flipper when re-tightening the mechanism? You should have a credit-card thickness gap between the flipper bat and the bushing for proper alignment / movement.

Put a new bushing in, I will have to double check the gap and eos gap tonight, and report back

#9423 30 days ago
Quoted from Iamthelaw:

Put a new bushing in, I will have to double check the gap and eos gap tonight, and report back

With the power off, manually raise the flipper bat feeling for any resistance or binding, and compare it to the left side (which I believe is behaving properly - right?). Compare the vertical movement of both bats. What's the resistance of the power and hold windings on the coil, and how do they compare to the left flipper coil?

Now with the power on, what's the voltage at the left and right flipper coils?

#9424 29 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

With the power off, manually raise the flipper bat feeling for any resistance or binding, and compare it to the left side (which I believe is behaving properly - right?). Compare the vertical movement of both bats. What's the resistance of the power and hold windings on the coil, and how do they compare to the left flipper coil?
Now with the power on, what's the voltage at the left and right flipper coils?

Think my switches were just a little off, adjusted both tonight and she’s back, thanks

#9425 29 days ago

Check out the awesome new PowerBladez for T2, by Pingraffix! They are in pre-order now and will be a small, very limited run, so make sure to order now!

https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/terminator-2-powerbladez

pbl_terminatorblades_red.png

#9426 29 days ago
Quoted from mikespins:

Check out the awesome new PowerBladez for T2, by Pingraffix! They are in pre-order now and will be a small, very limited run, so make sure to order now!
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/terminator-2-powerbladez
[quoted image]

I just placed my (pre)order. Once they get 10 orders, they will be produced. These look really cool. I have PowerBladez by PinGraffix in my Munsters and they are awesome. Order now before us NY guys get them all!

#9427 26 days ago

Posted in cameo thread but wanted to share here also.

Custom decals from my cameo

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#9428 25 days ago

Quick led flasher question. Warm or cool white? And SMd or flat top?

#9429 25 days ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

Quick led flasher question. Warm or cool white? And SMd or flat top?

Warm gives you the yellow light similar to old-school incandescent. Cool (natural) is a white light, and my overwhelming preference.
As far as style, that depends on where you put it... If its a backbox or PF insert in a light-board, use a flat top... In a dome, sideways mounted PF insert or hidden under a PF plastic, use a tower. In any case, if you feel a particular flasher is too intense with a flat top, use a tower instead.
In some cases, a white flasher looks like crap and washed out in colored inserts, especially inside red & blue domes and inserts, and a color matched flasher is needed. If you're using a bayonet style flasher, Comet's "flex flasher" is best in every PF insert.

#9430 25 days ago

The T2 I have has the old incandescents. I have cool whites in my cart right now to replace them so I guess I was looking to see if anyone has a preference in this pin.

#9431 25 days ago

I've got cool white in mine and like it. Feels more future-robot-ish to me than the warm white.

It's all subjective though. Not cost effective, but it may be worth just buying some of each to try out for yourself and pick your preference

#9432 22 days ago
Quoted from Br81zad:

I've got cool white in mine and like it. Feels more future-robot-ish to me than the warm white.
It's all subjective though. Not cost effective, but it may be worth just buying some of each to try out for yourself and pick your preference

Cool white gi with cool white flashers definitely the way to go.

#9433 16 days ago

I also went for cool white on my T2. As BR81zad said, the cool white fits the T2 theme the best, in my opinion. I actually still use regular warm white flashers in my Rollergames given that theme, and I like the slower light fade with traditional flashers in that machine versus the quick on/off of the LED flashers.

#9434 10 days ago

Hey folks, just picked up a T2 today. Haven't had a Bally/Williams in years. Anyways, I was doing some minor work such as swapping out some LEDs I had on hand and replacing rubber.

After having the playfield up to replace the buttons (start and flipper buttons). I put the PF down and start to play and the cannon doesn't work. I went into switch test mode and all 3 of the switches (2 underneath and 1 on top) seem to work. The motor doesn't even seem to be trying to run. I checked the connections and they seem ok. I noticed a wire underneath the motor (coming out of a green board...red arrow in the pic) not connected to anything but I don't see the other end of this if it were cut. (R2 in the pic attached) Any thoughts?

T2 Cannon (resized).jpg
#9435 10 days ago

Ooops. Sorry.

#9436 10 days ago

After poking around for a bit, that loose wire seems to have been soldered and it wasn't broken. It seems to be a perfect reach for the solder point I am showing in this pic (red arrows). Can someone be so kind as to snap a pic of that board? I want to make sure that is where it is supposed to go. Will post this in the T2 group as well.

T2 Cannon (resized).jpg
#9437 10 days ago

After poking around for a bit, that loose wire seems to have been soldered and it wasn't broken. It seems to be a perfect reach for the solder point I am showing in this pic (red arrows). Can someone be so kind as to snap a pic of that board? I want to make sure that is where it is supposed to go.

T2 Cannon (resized).jpg
#9438 10 days ago
Quoted from dinot:

Can someone be so kind as to snap a pic of that board?

I’ll be home in 30 minutes or so and can snap a pic for you

#9439 10 days ago
Quoted from tripplett:

I’ll be home in 30 minutes or so and can snap a pic for you

Thanks. I think I found my issue. I don't believe it is the board. No flashers either. So I don't have 12V. Now to find out why. Did I mention it has been many years since I've had a WPC?

#9440 9 days ago

Well I had already taken the pictures. Maybe it will help someone. I don’t have any resistors on R2 or R1. R2 seems to have a jumper.

Looking at the schematic I agree this isn’t your issue. It appears to be a board meant to reduce noise in the circuit.

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#9441 9 days ago

Check the fuses?
F111 for flashers, F115 (12v switch) & F116 (12v secondary) for the 12v circuits.

What does the switch tests show? What happens with menu T.12 Gun Test?

#9442 9 days ago
Quoted from tripplett:

Check the fuses?
F111 for flashers, F115 (12v switch) & F116 (12v secondary) for the 12v circuits.
What does the switch tests show? What happens with menu T.12 Gun Test?

Thanks. I also started a thread in the tech forum. Fuses all good. (Pulled and tested). I am not getting 20v at the power driver board's 20v test point. So that seems to be the issue.

#9443 9 days ago
Quoted from dinot:

Can someone be so kind as to snap a pic of that board? I want to make sure that is where it is supposed to go.
[quoted image]

Here's a pic of mine with a new (and correct) resistor soldered in.

100_8912 (resized).JPG

#9444 9 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Here's a pic of mine with a new (and correct) resistor soldered in.
[quoted image]

Thank you for the pic.
Mine looks like it was hacked up. But it was working for a while. I no longer have 20v at my power driver board so as bad as a soldering job I have on mine, I think the power driver board is the issue. (and hopefully only issue)

#9445 8 days ago

Have a new unused replacement Skull for T2.
(Plastic set in the picture has been sold.)

Pm me if interested.

$35 includes shipping in the US

3A32D6BE-936A-4BA8-9338-B40F065C5F20 (resized).jpeg

#9446 8 days ago

************
This is sold.
**********+*

Have a “one of a kind” T2 Banner that will look awesome by your machine or hanging on a door.

The banner is a little smaller than a Stern banner. Including a picture of a stern Godzilla banner and a Rick and Morty banner as an example of the size. The Rick and Morty banner is the same size as the T2 banner.

$175 plus $10 to ship in the US.

PM me if interested.
844C6714-64AE-4DEA-94F2-0FB3523A677C (resized).pngCD35F378-E542-4696-B402-9B459CCD02AC (resized).jpeg

Added 7 days ago:

Sold.

#9447 8 days ago

Have a playfield glass dust cover for T2.

$30 includes shipping in the US.

Pm me if interested.

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#9448 8 days ago

************

This is sold.

************

Have Bright Mods speaker light kit for T2. Brand new.

$35 shipped in the US

Pm me if interested.

7F16FB16-F52B-47C9-B6FC-1F4925023339 (resized).jpegC343D440-2375-41DF-A970-E71CABAEF825 (resized).jpeg

Added 7 days ago:

Sold.

#9449 6 days ago

Need help. Restoring a T2 that was operator owned and set for 15+ years. The scull has a diod in it but does not show one In the manual. The diod drops the voltage to 2 volts so at the least it’s in backwards. Is it supposed to be there?

image (resized).jpg
#9450 6 days ago
Quoted from legotech1:

Need help. Restoring a T2 that was operator owned and set for 15+ years. The scull has a diod in it but does not show one In the manual. The diod drops the voltage to 2 volts so at the least it’s in backwards. Is it supposed to be there?
[quoted image]

Here's pics of mine, hope this helps. Looks like yours is wired the same as mine but swapped left-to-right.
101_1244 (resized).JPG101_1246 (resized).JPG

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