(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

9 years ago


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  • 9,370 posts
  • 668 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by tripplett
  • Topic is favorited by 244 Pinsiders

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There are 9,370 posts in this topic. You are on page 188 of 188.
#9351 13 days ago
Quoted from tripplett:

Is there a tutorial somewhere on what hardware and steps are required to burn a new rom? I looked up a few things but they covered older burners that had troubles with current versions of Windows or were USB only and had problems supplying the required external power for some of these chips. Sorry, I don’t know a lot about burning rims yet. I once looked into burning PIC chips - but that was like 25 years ago.

I will recommend the GQ-4x4. I have the older version (GQ-4x) and it's very easy to use and reliable. It uses current windows based software and will program pretty much any eprom you need for pinball games and PICs as well.

https://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4282

#9352 12 days ago
Quoted from tripplett:

Is there a tutorial somewhere on what hardware and steps are required to burn a new rom? I looked up a few things but they covered older burners that had troubles with current versions of Windows or were USB only and had problems supplying the required external power for some of these chips. Sorry, I don’t know a lot about burning rims yet. I once looked into burning PIC chips - but that was like 25 years ago.

I personally use this burner and have not had any issue https://amzn.to/3LxorBe

#9353 12 days ago
Quoted from mikespins:

I personally use this burner and have not had any issue https://amzn.to/3LxorBe

Do you buy your chips from amazon? If so, which ones have you had good luck with? Link?

#9354 11 days ago
Quoted from Averell:

Good to know - thanks.
We found some more issues to fix with the next release.

Checked today and I'm running L5

Know where I can get a set of L8.3?

Or is L8.4 close enough that I should just wait?

#9355 11 days ago
Quoted from Br81zad:

Checked today and I'm running L5
Know where I can get a set of L8.3?
Or is L8.4 close enough that I should just wait?

I think you can download it at www.ipdb.org on the T2 page.

#9356 10 days ago

Yes, L8.3 is available at IPDB T2.
Next release will take a while, so you can swap to L8.3.
But keep in mind if you don't use PinSound you have to change U14 to U14 Profanity to have the callout "FUA" in the game.
In fact, then you have to change two Roms, one on the CPU (Game Rom) and the other on the soundcard (U14).
If you have PinSound, you have to download my improved soundpack at pinsound.org.

#9357 10 days ago
Quoted from Averell:

Yes, L8.3 is available at IPDB T2.
Next release will take a while, so you can swap to L8.3.
But keep in mind if you don't use PinSound you have to change U14 to U14 Profanity to have the callout "FUA" in the game.
In fact, then you have to change two Roms, one on the CPU (Game Rom) and the other on the soundcard (U14).
If you have PinSound, you have to download my improved soundpack at pinsound.org.

Averell, I dont have Pinsound, do you absolutely have to replace U14 for L8.3 to function? I don't want the profanity stuff, or "FUA". I'm really just fiending for an LED patch, and losing the slamming door sound in attract mode would be a bonus.

#9358 10 days ago

i'm running 8.1, which I believe was the first version to remove the slamming door sound. 8.1 doesn't have the the profanity callouts.

#9359 10 days ago

You don't need U14 Profanity if you don't like.
L8.3 offers this as an option and you can switch Profanity On or Off.
If the call out "FUA" is missing in the sound rom, it doesn't mater, Arnie just remain silent without issues.
Download the file and read the enhanced adjustments and you understand.

#9360 7 days ago

Started having an issue where the VUK behind the skull is staying in the up position at all times preventing the ball from sinking into the hole/cradle.

If I manually place the ball in the cradle and manually depress the plunger, it fires the ball up and through the habitrail no problem.

Anyone encounter this before? I've tried looking for previous posts on the site, but nothing I've found quite matches this problem.

#9361 6 days ago

Joined the club tonight! Long time in the making.

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#9362 6 days ago
Quoted from tomaszb1:

Joined the club tonight! Long time in the making.
[quoted image]

Welcome, This is a must have title, as a terminator fan, it's the one I wont ever sell.

#9363 6 days ago
Quoted from Br81zad:

Started having an issue where the VUK behind the skull is staying in the up position at all times preventing the ball from sinking into the hole/cradle.
If I manually place the ball in the cradle and manually depress the plunger, it fires the ball up and through the habitrail no problem.
Anyone encounter this before? I've tried looking for previous posts on the site, but nothing I've found quite matches this problem.

Sound like the VUK spring that ensures the plunger comes back down is broken or the coil sleeve needs replacing. You need to lift the PF and inspect the mech - should be pretty easy to determine the issue

pasted_image (resized).png

#9364 6 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Sound like the VUK spring that ensures the plunger comes back down is broken or the coil sleeve needs replacing. You need to lift the PF and inspect the mech - should be pretty easy to determine the issue
[quoted image]

Awesome, thanks. That's where I'll start.

#9365 6 days ago

I don't have a working example to compare to, but I would imagine the dowel pin should be fully inserted into the armature when properly assembled. (See image). There's also some chipping to the mounting bracket (also highlighted), but I wouldn't think that would cause the malfunction.

It's tough to see in the pic, so I took a video. The popper cap has a LOT of play, and that dowel rod appears to crash into the fork switch. I think we may have found the culprit.

VUK1 (resized).png
#9366 6 days ago

Dowel pin was definitely sticking out too far, but there was also a slight bind in the alignment of the armature and coil. It was catching on the down stroke and the spring isn't strong enough to overcome it. That was the real issue.

Also noticed one of the leads to the coil was in rough shape. Going to reflow that while I'm in here. Anyway, thanks Manny65 for the assist!

#9367 6 days ago
Quoted from Br81zad:

Dowel pin was definitely sticking out too far, but there was also a slight bind in the alignment of the armature and coil. It was catching on the down stroke and the spring isn't strong enough to overcome it. That was the real issue.
Also noticed one of the leads to the coil was in rough shape. Going to reflow that while I'm in here. Anyway, thanks Manny65 for the assist!

It should be easy to remove the entire mech - probably 4 screws (get yourself some nut drivers if you don’t already have them). The bottom end of the sleeve is broken, so expect that replacing the sleeve and centre the dowel pin, as well as giving the mech a clean will resolve the issue. Check the armature is not damaged

#9368 6 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

It should be easy to remove the entire mech - probably 4 screws (get yourself some nut drivers if you don’t already have them). The bottom end of the sleeve is broken, so expect that replacing the sleeve and centre the dowel pin, as well as giving the mech a clean will resolve the issue. Check the armature is not damaged

Yep, did all of that and mounted it back in. Plays fine for now (got my new personal best of 114mil ), and it looks like the replacement sleeve is available on Marco.

Thanks again!

#9369 5 days ago
Quoted from Br81zad:

Yep, did all of that and mounted it back in. Plays fine for now (got my new personal best of 114mil ), and it looks like the replacement sleeve is available on Marco.
Thanks again!

Given you've just picked up this game and based on the condition of the coil sleeve in the VUK, probably worthwhile in buying a bunch of sleeves for all the coils (check the manual and parts list as some mechs use different sleeves) as well as a flipper rebuild kit, some new balls and rubbers. These are all standard maintenance items and it'll get you more familiar with all the components in this game, as well as ensuring the game plays well (now and into the future).

#9370 5 days ago

I just had a similar problem with the VUK in the skull. The solenoid fired and launched the ball AND cap up into the wireform. Took the assembly out and discovered the tip of the plunger had broken off where the hole for the pin goes. It looked like I could replace the tip of the plunger by removing a second dowel however Marco only sold this as a complete plunger (part A-11336). I went ahead and bought a new cap (part 03-8053) and pin (part 20-9314-7) so it's all new. I regret not getting a new spring but the old one was ok. Replaced the sleeve while I had it all apart. Should be good now for a long time.

After doing this I'd recommend anyone else remove the two switch screws and remove the switch from the assembly before removing the 4 main screws. This allows the whole assembly more room to move around without the shorter and thin switch wires restricting it or risking damaging the switch or it's wires. It's obviously easier to replace those parts if you unsolder the solenoid and do it all on the bench but it's possible to do it right in the machine if you take your time and remove the switch to get more wire slack.

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