Terminator 2: Judgment Day
Williams, 1991I have also placed some Mylar on the playfield:
1. in front of the slingshots
2. at the end of the wire ramps where the balls drop down on the surface
3. on the entire area where the cannon shots the balls to the targets, incl. CPU inserts
4. over the "Autofire" banana insert
Made a boneheaded move and not sure what’s next.
I was installing Cliffys on my T2, and knocked off the wires for the drop target coil. The soldering in this table is a bit rough so the wires broke easily.
I thought I read the schematic right but it didn’t apparently because when I powered it on I got Magic Smoke from the coil and shut it down. Coil was very hot to the touch.
Fixed the issue with the wires and started it up again. I now have Ground Shorts on rows 2,3 and 4. Just to make sure it was the board and not the PF I disconnect J209 and still has shorts on 2 and 4.
Signs are pointing to me frying the board. I’ve read about the u18-u20 IC chips that control this and most likely need to be replaced.
What I’m curious about is:
Which board would have been affected from this? MPU or Driver?
Isn’t this what the fuses are supposed to stop from happening?
What’s the best way to repair this one?
Thanks for any insight.
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:Made a boneheaded move and not sure what’s next.
I was installing Cliffys on my T2, and knocked off the wires for the drop target coil. The soldering in this table is a bit rough so the wires broke easily.
I thought I read the schematic right but it didn’t apparently because when I powered it on I got Magic Smoke from the coil and shut it down. Coil was very hot to the touch.
Fixed the issue with the wires and started it up again. I now have Ground Shorts on rows 2,3 and 4. Just to make sure it was the board and not the PF I disconnect J209 and still has shorts on 2 and 4.
Signs are pointing to me frying the board. I’ve read about the u18-u20 IC chips that control this and most likely need to be replaced.
What I’m curious about is:
Which board would have been affected from this? MPU or Driver?
Isn’t this what the fuses are supposed to stop from happening?
What’s the best way to repair this one?
Thanks for any insight.
Specifically which wires came off and where did you initially resolder them to? Pics would be useful as well
Ground shorts are associated with a short in the wiring or issue with the MPU board. J209 connects the PF switch rows, while J212 connects the cabinet switch rows. So remove both J209 and J212 and see if the ground shorts still exist as it is possible that the ground shorts are in the cabinet switch wiring.
Quoted from Manny65:Specifically which wires came off and where did you initially resolder them to? Pics would be useful as well
Ground shorts are associated with a short in the wiring or issue with the MPU board. J209 connects the PF switch rows, while J212 connects the cabinet switch rows. So remove both J209 and J212 and see if the ground shorts still exist as it is possible that the ground shorts are in the cabinet switch wiring.
I reversed a wire from the coil to the switch operating the coil. I tested the game with j209 and 212 disconnected and still had the Ground Short errors.
Can anyone offer advice on a display issue I have? Had the issue before and now it’s back again. Pics below.
It happened before a couple years ago on the original amber/orange DMD display and so I had removed the connectors from the board and the display and just cleaned them all with a toothbrush. It was good for a couple years after I did that. Then I sold the machine to a friend this past December and just bought it back recently. Now it’s doing it again but on the color DMD he installed. I removed the connectors again and reseated them several times and it seemed ok but came back after a game or two. I’ll try to clean it again like I did before but looking for a better solution or at least one that will last longer?
TIA
7D448C33-0897-439C-82D0-E291FF445BF5 (resized).pngEDF9B9FA-26E1-426D-A0B5-F0DF157F8C85 (resized).pngFC75B4F2-331A-4303-AF1E-CBB11457942C (resized).jpegQuoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Can anyone offer advice on a display issue I have? Had the issue before and now it’s back again. Pics below.
It happened before a couple years ago on the original amber/orange DMD display and so I had removed the connectors from the board and the display and just cleaned them all with a toothbrush. It was good for a couple years after I did that. Then I sold the machine to a friend this past December and just bought it back recently. Now it’s doing it again but on the color DMD he installed. I removed the connectors again and reseated them several times and it seemed ok but came back after a game or two. I’ll try to clean it again like I did before but looking for a better solution or at least one that will last longer?
TIA[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Maybe replace the ribbon cable? BTW, diggin' the blue plasma pop bumpers.
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Can anyone offer advice on a display issue I have? Had the issue before and now it’s back again. Pics below.
It happened before a couple years ago on the original amber/orange DMD display and so I had removed the connectors from the board and the display and just cleaned them all with a toothbrush. It was good for a couple years after I did that. Then I sold the machine to a friend this past December and just bought it back recently. Now it’s doing it again but on the color DMD he installed. I removed the connectors again and reseated them several times and it seemed ok but came back after a game or two. I’ll try to clean it again like I did before but looking for a better solution or at least one that will last longer?
TIA[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
When you are saying "connectors" I'm guessing you are referring to the ribbon cable? There are 3 ribbon cables, all 3 are used in relation to the DMD images. They can become an issue such as what you are seeing, and you'll find replacements available at pinball suppliers
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:I reversed a wire from the coil to the switch operating the coil. I tested the game with j209 and 212 disconnected and still had the Ground Short errors.
Believe you've put ~75V into the MPU's switch matrix circuit (which runs at 12V), so I'd expect the MPU will need work.
You also shorted the coil activating it (which is fine) but it got hot because it wasn't a short pulse. If in correcting the wiring the coil now works correctly, then you turned it off in time before the slow blow fuse went (or the fuse has the wrong rating), however I'd still suggest disassembling the coil, if you can't remove the coil sleeve easily (because the coil has swelled/melted) then you should replace the coil and sleeve.
Quoted from gac:Maybe replace the ribbon cable? BTW, diggin' the blue plasma pop bumpers.
Thanks.
Quoted from Manny65:When you are saying "connectors" I'm guessing you are referring to the ribbon cable? There are 3 ribbon cables, all 3 are used in relation to the DMD images. They can become an issue such as what you are seeing, and you'll find replacements available at pinball suppliers
Thank you.
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Can anyone offer advice on a display issue I have? Had the issue before and now it’s back again. Pics below.
It happened before a couple years ago on the original amber/orange DMD display and so I had removed the connectors from the board and the display and just cleaned them all with a toothbrush. It was good for a couple years after I did that. Then I sold the machine to a friend this past December and just bought it back recently. Now it’s doing it again but on the color DMD he installed. I removed the connectors again and reseated them several times and it seemed ok but came back after a game or two. I’ll try to clean it again like I did before but looking for a better solution or at least one that will last longer?
TIA[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I would be curious to know what the issue is here. Granted replacing the cable and inspecting connectors would be my first choice. it looks like corrosion of some sort is affecting the connection. Your previous attempt might have created a temporary and somewhat improved connection until corrosion built up again.
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:Made a boneheaded move and not sure what’s next.
I was installing Cliffys on my T2, and knocked off the wires for the drop target coil. The soldering in this table is a bit rough so the wires broke easily.
I thought I read the schematic right but it didn’t apparently because when I powered it on I got Magic Smoke from the coil and shut it down. Coil was very hot to the touch.
Fixed the issue with the wires and started it up again. I now have Ground Shorts on rows 2,3 and 4. Just to make sure it was the board and not the PF I disconnect J209 and still has shorts on 2 and 4.
Signs are pointing to me frying the board. I’ve read about the u18-u20 IC chips that control this and most likely need to be replaced.
What I’m curious about is:
Which board would have been affected from this? MPU or Driver?
Isn’t this what the fuses are supposed to stop from happening?
What’s the best way to repair this one?
Thanks for any insight.
Hmmm... I had a similar situation not long ago and the ground shorts were a damaged U20 and U14 IC on the MPU. I shorted the solenoid to a lamp circuit and that initially caused the damage. You can confirm with a logic probe, read through this thread for guidance:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t2-ground-short-rows-2-7-at-start-up#post-6920891
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Can anyone offer advice on a display issue I have? Had the issue before and now it’s back again. Pics below.
It happened before a couple years ago on the original amber/orange DMD display and so I had removed the connectors from the board and the display and just cleaned them all with a toothbrush. It was good for a couple years after I did that. Then I sold the machine to a friend this past December and just bought it back recently. Now it’s doing it again but on the color DMD he installed. I removed the connectors again and reseated them several times and it seemed ok but came back after a game or two. I’ll try to clean it again like I did before but looking for a better solution or at least one that will last longer?
TIA[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I'm having the exact same issue on Fish Tales, I could touch the ribbon cable and it would correct so I changed all the ribbon cables but it still does this, albeit very infrequently. I'm going to clean it with LPS Electrical cleaner and a soft brush next.
Quoted from Bohm:I'm having the exact same issue on Fish Tales, I could touch the ribbon cable and it would correct so I changed all the ribbon cables but it still does this, albeit very infrequently. I'm going to clean it with LPS Electrical cleaner and a soft brush next.
[quoted image]
sounds like just might need to replace the header and you are good to go?
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:sounds like just might need to replace the header and you are good to go?
Yeah, I try to avoid doing any type of soldering on circuit boards because I don't have a lot of practice and I'm bad at it but this will be the next step if cleaning doesn't work
Quoted from Bohm:Yeah, I try to avoid doing any type of soldering on circuit boards because I don't have a lot of practice and I'm bad at it but this will be the next step if cleaning doesn't work
Send it to a pro.
You have lots ot options there.
I do this work all the time and can do it for you if you want, but I am in Canada.cheers
Quoted from Bohm:I'm having the exact same issue on Fish Tales, I could touch the ribbon cable and it would correct so I changed all the ribbon cables but it still does this, albeit very infrequently. I'm going to clean it with LPS Electrical cleaner and a soft brush next.
[quoted image]
I’ll grab some of this, can’t hurt to try it.
Thanks
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Send it to a pro.
You have lots ot options there.
I do this work all the time and can do it for you if you want, but I am in Canada.cheers
I appreciate it.
Currently I harass a friend of mine who got me into pinball, he's pretty good at repair and lives close by.
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Can anyone offer advice on a display issue I have? Had the issue before and now it’s back again. Pics below.
It happened before a couple years ago on the original amber/orange DMD display and so I had removed the connectors from the board and the display and just cleaned them all with a toothbrush. It was good for a couple years after I did that. Then I sold the machine to a friend this past December and just bought it back recently. Now it’s doing it again but on the color DMD he installed. I removed the connectors again and reseated them several times and it seemed ok but came back after a game or two. I’ll try to clean it again like I did before but looking for a better solution or at least one that will last longer?
TIA
With power off, reseat both ribbon cables at all the board connections that start at the top of the MPU board. (5 ribbon cable connections.)
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:Made a boneheaded move and not sure what’s next.
I was installing Cliffys on my T2, and knocked off the wires for the drop target coil. The soldering in this table is a bit rough so the wires broke easily.
I thought I read the schematic right but it didn’t apparently because when I powered it on I got Magic Smoke from the coil and shut it down. Coil was very hot to the touch.
Fixed the issue with the wires and started it up again. I now have Ground Shorts on rows 2,3 and 4. Just to make sure it was the board and not the PF I disconnect J209 and still has shorts on 2 and 4.
Signs are pointing to me frying the board. I’ve read about the u18-u20 IC chips that control this and most likely need to be replaced.
What I’m curious about is:
Which board would have been affected from this? MPU or Driver?
Isn’t this what the fuses are supposed to stop from happening?
What’s the best way to repair this one?
Thanks for any insight.
Reference MPU board
WPC-089MPULayout (resized).jpgQuoted from gac:Maybe replace the ribbon cable? BTW, diggin' the blue plasma pop bumpers.
Quoted from Manny65:When you are saying "connectors" I'm guessing you are referring to the ribbon cable? There are 3 ribbon cables, all 3 are used in relation to the DMD images. They can become an issue such as what you are seeing, and you'll find replacements available at pinball suppliers
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I would be curious to know what the issue is here. Granted replacing the cable and inspecting connectors would be my first choice. it looks like corrosion of some sort is affecting the connection. Your previous attempt might have created a temporary and somewhat improved connection until corrosion built up again.
Quoted from Bohm:I'm having the exact same issue on Fish Tales, I could touch the ribbon cable and it would correct so I changed all the ribbon cables but it still does this, albeit very infrequently. I'm going to clean it with LPS Electrical cleaner and a soft brush next.
[quoted image]
ok, happy to report I resolved the display issue on my T2. I did grab a can of contact cleaner but I also removed the dmd board as this person indicates in this Youtube video.
I also went ahead and cleaned many other connectors and ribbons while I was at it. Display working great again but my sound is now coming and going... I think my machine is mad at me for selling her 6 months ago 
Ha ha! anyway, opened back up again and got the sound going but it started fading out again. DANG IT! I'll have to mess with it more again sometime this weekend... 
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Display working great again but my sound is now coming and going
Reseat this one again. Bad shared data connection on one pin.
Any bent Male header board pins can cause issues when the ribbon cable is plugged in.
Looks like to me that this ribbon cable is is need of replacement.
2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Reseat this one again. Bad shared data connection on one pin.
Any bent Male header board pins can cause issues when the ribbon cable is plugged in.
Looks like to me that this ribbon cable is is need of replacement.
[quoted image]
For the sound or display?
Thanks.
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:For the sound or display?
Thanks.
It can affect both, in the case right now your sound is flaky.
Quoted from Averell:Be prepared for a new Game ROM release very soon.
gif-eating-popcorn-61.gifWe are currently testing the latest new settings and improvements on five machines.
An extended description of the A2 adjustments and the entire change log is ready.
There are many new setting options, an integrated profanity part, LED and DMD bugfixes and many more.
You will be amazed and excited about what is possible.
After decades, the T2 will be much more playable than ever.
Quoted from Averell:We are currently testing the latest new settings and improvements on five machines.
An extended description of the A2 adjustments and the entire change log is ready.
There are many new setting options, an integrated profanity part, LED and DMD bugfixes and many more.
You will be amazed and excited about what is possible.
After decades, the T2 will be much more playable than ever.
Please tell me you removed that bong sound when the game is idle. It's like an attract sound that you can't disable.
Quoted from Averell:We are currently testing the latest new settings and improvements on five machines.
An extended description of the A2 adjustments and the entire change log is ready.
There are many new setting options, an integrated profanity part, LED and DMD bugfixes and many more.
You will be amazed and excited about what is possible.
After decades, the T2 will be much more playable than ever.
This is great news! Can we see the change log, please?
Have a new issue with my T2, the sound is going in and out. Sometimes the game boots fine, but it never gets through a full game with the sound correct. It will drop out or get stuck. Sometimes the noise the game makes when booting is normal and others it is super loud. I ordered new ribbon cables and installed, no change. I pulled the board and reseated the roms, no change. Any advice from the group, should I buy the sound board rebuild kit or just call it a day and send the board in for repair. Anyone have an educated guess which component or components cause this type of issue. Thanks in advance.
Quoted from frodak99:Have a new issue with my T2, the sound is going in and out. Sometimes the game boots fine, but it never gets through a full game with the sound correct. It will drop out or get stuck. Sometimes the noise the game makes when booting is normal and others it is super loud. I ordered new ribbon cables and installed, no change. I pulled the board and reseated the roms, no change. Any advice from the group, should I buy the sound board rebuild kit or just call it a day and send the board in for repair. Anyone have an educated guess which component or components cause this type of issue. Thanks in advance.
To confirm it’s the sound board, you could swap it with the board in your Black Rose & see if the issue follows the board.
Not sure that your issue is specifically listed in here but worth a read if you are looking to repair the board yourself https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Pre-DCS_Sound_Board_Issues
Quoted from Manny65:To confirm it’s the sound board, you could swap it with the board in your Black Rose & see if the issue follows the board.
Not sure that your issue is specifically listed in here but worth a read if you are looking to repair the board yourself https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Pre-DCS_Sound_Board_Issues
Will do.
Quoted from Manny65:To confirm it’s the sound board, you could swap it with the board in your Black Rose & see if the issue follows the board.
Not sure that your issue is specifically listed in here but worth a read if you are looking to repair the board yourself https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Pre-DCS_Sound_Board_Issues
Always great advice when you have a spare board, hope you can narrow this down. Sound board is an easy fix, however best to send it to the boards guru's.
Quoted from Manny65:To confirm it’s the sound board, you could swap it with the board in your Black Rose & see if the issue follows the board.
Not sure that your issue is specifically listed in here but worth a read if you are looking to repair the board yourself https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Pre-DCS_Sound_Board_Issues
I did swap boards, the problem is gone so the issue is on the sound board. Interestingly, the Black Rose board is much louder so I needed to change the minimum volume setting. I'll probably send the board out to be repaired, unless someone thinks they know what the issue is. I've done some board work, but as there are not replacements available having it professionally restored seems like a good decision.
Quoted from frodak99:Any advice from the group, should I buy the sound board rebuild kit or just call it a day and send the board in for repair. Anyone have an educated guess which component or components cause this type of issue.
Quoted from frodak99:I did swap boards, the problem is gone so the issue is on the sound board.
You can certainly replace the electrolytic capacitors. It may also be the amplifier. Those are just guesses without any evidence.
Quoted from frodak99:Interestingly, the Black Rose board is much louder so I needed to change the minimum volume setting.
This is likely due to the resistor value changes between non-fliptronic pre-DCS sound boards and fliptronic pre-DCS sound boards. The balance between the speech, sound and music changed with the resistor value changes.
Quoted from frodak99:I'll probably send the board out to be repaired, unless someone thinks they know what the issue is. I've done some board work, but as there are not replacements available having it professionally restored seems like a good decision.
I have a reproduction board available but as of this post I need to order more of them (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/3#post-5825899). I don't move many of these as most people choose to repair their old board or replace their board with a Pinsound. When replaced with a Pinsound that typically makes an OEM board available.
Repair is almost always cheaper than replace!
Quoted from frodak99:Interestingly, the Black Rose board is much louder so I needed to change the minimum volume setting.
Quoted from DumbAss:This is likely due to the resistor value changes between non-fliptronic pre-DCS sound boards and fliptronic pre-DCS sound boards. The balance between the speech, sound and music changed with the resistor value changes.
Great pick up! I forgot about those resistors being different 
Yesterday, late in the evening we found an issue regarding ball search caused by missing ball.
We found what went wrong and can fix this issue. This evening we will check again with a new code.
Release candidate should be ready end of this week.
Got my t2 14 days ago. Up to page 120 on this thread.
Taking all topside off and cleaning .removed mylar.
Gonna touch-up and auto clear.
Upper backbox gi and back left playfield gi weren't working.
Replaced fuses and back left playfield gi is good.
Upper backbox is why I'm posting.
Replaced connector with molex style. Continuity from connector up to lights.
Tested the header pins and was getting 7.9 volts.
Put connector on header pins
And no joy.
So pull board and reflow header? Even though I'm getting a good voltage reading?
Thx for any help.
Quoted from lowbeau67:Got my t2 14 days ago. Up to page 120 on this thread.
Taking all topside off and cleaning .removed mylar.
Gonna touch-up and auto clear.
Upper backbox gi and back left playfield gi weren't working.
Replaced fuses and back left playfield gi is good.
Upper backbox is why I'm posting.
Replaced connector with molex style. Continuity from connector up to lights.
Tested the header pins and was getting 7.9 volts.
Put connector on header pins
And no joy.
So pull board and reflow header? Even though I'm getting a good voltage reading?
Thx for any help.
When you tested the voltage the DMM was set to VAC with one probe on the specific coloured wire and the other probe on the white wire that has the same color "tracer"? Did you test the other GI string voltages and get a similar reading?
Pinwiki provides a great information and troubleshooting on the GI which may help https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems
Quoted from Manny65:When you tested the voltage the DMM was set to VAC with one probe on the specific coloured wire and the other probe on the white wire that has the same color "tracer"? Did you test the other GI string voltages and get a similar reading?
Pinwiki provides a great information and troubleshooting on the GI which may help https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems
Yes I tested appropriate header pins 1 and 7 for upper backbox gi.Got voltage reading 7.9
Pins 2 and 8 read 5.8 volts for bottom backbox lights which have worked on both idc and new molex connector.
Put new 11 pin molex connector
on and no voltage to upper backbox lights.
This was happening with original idc connector so I put new molex on.
With connector not connected
I have continuity from crimps up to lights.
Puzzling
I'll read up some more.
Happy Fourth of July! We did a block party today and I set up T2 and DESW in a garage for the neighbors and kiddos to enjoy. Hope everyone has a great fourth!
303CDD8A-7317-465D-AB82-937A2C7F671D (resized).jpeg32700AF6-D687-4B62-9484-7DBF4A3661B8 (resized).jpegQuoted from lowbeau67:Yes I tested appropriate header pins 1 and 7 for upper backbox gi.Got voltage reading 7.9
Pins 2 and 8 read 5.8 volts for bottom backbox lights which have worked on both idc and new molex connector.
Put new 11 pin molex connector
on and no voltage to upper backbox lights.
This was happening with original idc connector so I put new molex on.
With connector not connected
I have continuity from crimps up to lights.
Puzzling
I'll read up some more.
So I read some more.
Was buzzingfor continuity for brown wire gi.
Got over to j115 and pin 8 must have fried.
So this must be my problem.
So new connector at j115 and new headers I assume
Quoted from lowbeau67:So I read some more.
Was buzzingfor continuity for brown wire gi.
Got over to j115 and pin 8 must have fried.
[quoted image]
So this must be my problem.
So new connector at j115 and new headers I assume
Classic t2!
Is it running leds? If not switching over to led will eliminate this in the future.
Ocd board is a must on this one!
I miss my t2!
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Classic t2!
Indeed... I've never heard of a T2 that the GI header didn't cook at some point with incandescent's. Mine is HUO and still fried with only being turned on when playing! God bless the inventor of the super-bright LED!!
Found some old j115 threads with some good info.
Got all the parts I need since I repinned all my sdb and mpu connectors on my meteor restoration last year and bought all kinds of stuff from gpe.
Will report back when resolved.
Thx.
Small ball flow issue...
When a ball is leaving the game it's shot back up thru the troughs and it pushes the closest ball to the game a bit up.
This results in the game still thinking ball is in game and not giving boni. You can see ball very close to shooter lane. If i hit the machine on the right side it falls back in place and points are counted.
Have been looking how to adjust but can't find it... it's like it's shooting the ball to strongly up to the center/right trough when entering on the left trough.
Can this be adjusted ? Will add a pic.
Quoted from lowbeau67:Found some old j115 threads with some good info.
Got all the parts I need since I repinned all my sdb and mpu connectors on my meteor restoration last year and bought all kinds of stuff from gpe.
Will report back when resolved.
Thx.
Replaced J115 header pins
and put new molex connector
on and extended original yellow and
yellow white wires and "y'ed" into 11 new trifurcon
pins.
Reinstalled driver board with new headers and
reconnected everything and upper backbox lights
are back on.
Just posted mine for sale in the market if anyone is interested in joining the club.
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