(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

9 years ago


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2 Feature Adjustments (Update).pdf (PDF preview)
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2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png
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DSCN7404 (resized).JPG
fishtales-drain-002 (resized).jpg
WH20-ejects-inst001 (resized).jpg
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There are 9,189 posts in this topic. You are on page 183 of 184.
#9101 44 days ago

Various used T2 plastics for free. PM me

#9102 43 days ago

I noticed my right flipper assembly has this capacitor (?)attached to it, but left does not. Is left supposed to have one as well? Thank you

IMG_20220518_174121189 (resized).jpg
#9103 43 days ago
Quoted from JakePG:

I noticed my right flipper assembly has this capacitor (?)attached to it, but left does not. Is left supposed to have one as well? Thank you
[quoted image]

Yes, here's how the left-side one should be wired to your EOS switch.
100_8397 (resized).JPG

#9104 43 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Yes, here's how the left-side one should be wired to your EOS switch.
[quoted image]

Hm interesting. Thank you for the help and the picture. I guess this is the reason flipper occasionally gets intermittent? I originally thought eos switch was closed enough.

#9105 42 days ago
Quoted from JakePG:

Hm interesting. Thank you for the help and the picture. I guess this is the reason flipper occasionally gets intermittent? I originally thought eos switch was closed enough.

The cap is to stop sparks and arcing from the switch, your flippers will function normally without them. But you will go through switches often if the game was routed. So depending on how long that cap has been missing, your EOS may be toasted. Replace the switch and add the cap.

#9106 42 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

The cap is to stop sparks and arcing from the switch, your flippers will function normally without them. But you will go through switches often if the game was routed. So depending on how long that cap has been missing, your EOS may be toasted. Replace the switch and add the cap.

Very helpful. Thank you. Upon further inspection, I think the flipper may fade out occasionally because one of the wires isn't soldered to the contact. It was literally just put through the hole.

Already ordered new eos switches.

Are you able to tell me if this is the correct capacitor:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C2.2M250VA-NP

Thank for the help

#9107 42 days ago
Quoted from JakePG:

Very helpful. Thank you. Upon further inspection, I think the flipper may fade out occasionally because one of the wires isn't soldered to the contact. It was literally just put through the hole.
Already ordered new eos switches.
Are you able to tell me if this is the correct capacitor:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C2.2M250VA-NP
Thank for the help

Yes, that is the correct cap, it should come as a kit with a zip tie and sleeves to cover the leads.

#9108 42 days ago
Quoted from JakePG:

Very helpful. Thank you. Upon further inspection, I think the flipper may fade out occasionally because one of the wires isn't soldered to the contact. It was literally just put through the hole.
Already ordered new eos switches.
Are you able to tell me if this is the correct capacitor:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C2.2M250VA-NP
Thank for the help

No solder = more resistance, more resistance = more heat, more heat= less flippint power/fade and potentially melting the coil

13
#9109 41 days ago

Together at last

IMG_3093.jpg
#9110 38 days ago

Quick question for my hunter-killer ship owning friends...does anyone happen to know what size screw/locknut is used to mount the ship to its bracket? I made my own bracket but I can't seem to keep the ship secured. All of the mounting kits I see sold online appear to just include a regular screw and locknut, but none of them say what size they are

#9111 38 days ago

Hello fellow T2 owners! Does anyone know where I can get a replacement gun assembly? Did anyone make these aftermarket? I sent mine to get "chromed" and the UPS package was damaged and now I'm missing 1/2 my gun! It was insured but have no place to buy one.... and help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Added 37 days ago:

UPDATE. I found one.

#9112 37 days ago
Quoted from loscanones:

I would rather call that "heavy damaged area".
In my opinion you have only three options:
1. Restore the whole playfield - expensive like hell if not done by yourself. Actually it`s better to buy another machine than follow this procedure.
2. Use an overlay for that area. It costs ~40 bucks + transportation. It`s a pretty cheap and effective solution.
3. Do nothing, just clean it.
I attach a picture with the overlay, so you can get the idea.

[quoted image]

Fixing up a T2 I picked up a few years ago, needs too much work to be anything other than player's machine but these overlays from Pinball Center would really go a long way in the looks department, my question is are they recommended/worth the money?

#9113 37 days ago

NO

#9114 35 days ago

Fixing up my T2. All GI cables were soldered to the pins, gonna put back a connector as lights in backbox are out now...

I saw Green in manual is connected to J120-2 and to J121-5 ?? only have one green cable in my pin ?

Also have orange and white orange cable not mentioned in manual...

what's the best setup ? or maybe some pics of J120/121

#9115 35 days ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Fixing up my T2. All GI cables were soldered to the pins, gonna put back a connector as lights in backbox are out now...
I saw Green in manual is connected to J120-2 and to J121-5 ?? only have one green cable in my pin ?
Also have orange and white orange cable not mentioned in manual...
what's the best setup ? or maybe some pics of J120/121

Yes the manual has a mistake (the "White/Colour" & "Colour" wires are paired)
Top Insert - White/Brown (manual) White/Brown (machine)
Bottom Insert - White/Green (manual) White/Orange (machine)
Left Playfield - White/Violet (manual) White/Violet (machine)
Right Playfield - White/Yellow (manual) White/Yellow (machine)
CPU - (not listed in the manual) White/Green (machine)
Not Used - White/Orange (manual)

#9116 32 days ago

9e38ecb219b828f0a9519aecef0111eb36da33b0 (resized).jpg

Can someone kindly share a photo of a properly wired, working drop target solenoid (#28) or at least confirm the wiring in the picture above is correct?

I toasted the last coil I wired this way but since then I replaced a faulty transistor at Q20 which may or may not have led to the coil's demise. The coil was originally wired with the blue-yellow and smaller violet wire on the left lug and the larger violet-orange wire to the lug on the right. I wired it back this way after replacing the transistor but it still isn't activating and I'm hesitant to burn up any more components.

#9117 32 days ago
16538652530213650186722166873867 (resized).jpg
#9118 32 days ago
Quoted from Bohm:

[quoted image]
Can someone kindly share a photo of a properly wired, working drop target solenoid (#28) or at least confirm the wiring in the picture above is correct?
I toasted the last coil I wired this way but since then I replaced a faulty transistor at Q20 which may or may not have led to the coil's demise. The coil was originally wired with the blue-yellow and smaller violet wire on the left lug and the larger violet-orange wire to the lug on the right. I wired it back this way after replacing the transistor but it still isn't activating and I'm hesitant to burn up any more components.

When you say not working - do you mean in game play or solenoid test mode or both?

Worth reading https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Blown_.2F_Failing_Q20_Transistor_on_the_Driver_Board_and_the_Tieback_Diode

Assuming you have the tie-back connected at the driver board end, then this link will take you through the steps to troubleshoot where the issue is https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Coil_Fails_to_Work

#9119 32 days ago
Quoted from JakePG:

[quoted image]

Thank you, I had a lot of doubt after reading different things.

Quoted from Manny65:

When you say not working - do you mean in game play or solenoid test mode or both?
Worth reading https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Blown_.2F_Failing_Q20_Transistor_on_the_Driver_Board_and_the_Tieback_Diode
Assuming you have the tie-back connected at the driver board end, then this link will take you through the steps to troubleshoot where the issue is https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Coil_Fails_to_Work

This is great information so thank you. This helped me confirm the coil has voltage and will fire, continuity from the coil to the transistor is solid, the fuse is good and Tip102 at Q20 tests functional and we just replaced it so I'm still at a loss. That leaves testing transistor 2N5401 and IC LS374 at I think U2. Kind of debating sending the board off or just buying a new one, it has had a lot of work done to it and I'm a novice at board repair.

#9120 32 days ago
Quoted from Bohm:

Thank you, I had a lot of doubt after reading different things.

This is great information so thank you. This helped me confirm the coil has voltage and will fire, continuity from the coil to the transistor is solid, the fuse is good and Tip102 at Q20 tests functional and we just replaced it so I'm still at a loss. That leaves testing transistor 2N5401 and IC LS374 at I think U2. Kind of debating sending the board off or just buying a new one, it has had a lot of work done to it and I'm a novice at board repair.

Are you sure the return line to transistor is good? How did you fire the coil (briefly short the coil to ground, or short the transistor tab to ground or via the service menu)?

#9121 31 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Are you sure the return line to transistor is good? How did you fire the coil (briefly short the coil to ground, or short the transistor tab to ground or via the service menu)?

Yes, I checked continuity from the coil, through the connector to TIP102.

I shorted the transistor tab to ground

#9122 29 days ago

I am in the process of a playfield swap on my T2 and have this unknown bracket. Any idea where it goes?

IMG_5805 (resized).jpg
#9123 29 days ago
Quoted from Cocktaildave:

I am in the process of a playfield swap on my T2 and have this unknown bracket. Any idea where it goes?[quoted image]

I think this part does not go on the T2

#9124 29 days ago

Me either...

#9125 29 days ago

I sure couldn’t find a place for it on the playfield. Maybe it came out of the cabinet?

#9126 29 days ago

No, I have never seen this part in my T2 and the machine was disassembled to pieces.

#9127 29 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Yes, that will work.

OK so replaced my U8 with Nvram on a socket. Still have the same error on the cpu board : LED D19 and 21 on, D20 off.

Anyway to measure if my soldering was done ok as I had a lot of trouble to make soldering stuck on the pcb.

Or what else could be the cause of this issue?
IMG_0640 (resized).jpg

#9128 29 days ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

OK so replaced my U8 with Nvram on a socket. Still have the same error on the cpu board : LED D19 and 21 on, D20 off.
Anyway to measure if my soldering was done ok as I had a lot of trouble to make soldering stuck on the pcb.
Or what else could be the cause of this issue?
[quoted image]

That photo is pretty blurry, but from what I can see it is very likely that you damaged some pads/traces during the NVRAM installation and it may need professional repair or replacement.

#9129 29 days ago

What the heck have you done?
Man, this is really bad soldering!

#9130 29 days ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

OK so replaced my U8 with Nvram on a socket. Still have the same error on the cpu board : LED D19 and 21 on, D20 off.
Anyway to measure if my soldering was done ok as I had a lot of trouble to make soldering stuck on the pcb.
Or what else could be the cause of this issue?
[quoted image]

The only way to test is to follow every trace and do a continuity test on every pin.

#9131 29 days ago

Looks like way too much solder and soldering iron not hot enough.

#9132 29 days ago

This looks more like if soldered with a crap solder without lead and in addition extremely bad!

#9133 29 days ago

Tried iron at 380degr C (selectable up to 420), did not stick on pcb but solder got stuck on iron.
Tried weller gas iron (no temp control) same issue
Tried regular electric iron no temp control, no sticking...

Will indeed send board out to a professional for repair.

Just wondering why it didn't stick to the pcb...

I followed traces and got some beeps but some can't simply be followed or are maybe not used...
Found schematic drawing but even with it not very obviousto trace...

I changed some LM339 and ULN2803 (adding sockets) in the past and all worked out fine.

My vision : If you don't try it will remain broken, if you try and break it... own fault, live with it , trying is learning.

#9134 28 days ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Tried iron at 380degr C (selectable up to 420), did not stick on pcb but solder got stuck on iron.
Tried weller gas iron (no temp control) same issue
Tried regular electric iron no temp control, no sticking...
Will indeed send board out to a professional for repair.
Just wondering why it didn't stick to the pcb...
I followed traces and got some beeps but some can't simply be followed or are maybe not used...
Found schematic drawing but even with it not very obviousto trace...
I changed some LM339 and ULN2803 (adding sockets) in the past and all worked out fine.
My vision : If you don't try it will remain broken, if you try and break it... own fault, live with it , trying is learning.

As to why the solder wouldn't adhere to the PCB, there are a lot of variables - for example the desoldering and cleanup of the board prior, the solder and flux you used, and a fair bit of it comes down to your technique & skill.

Here's a thread that I found most useful https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1

Before attempting board work, it's worthwhile getting some old dead boards and practicing your technique

#9135 28 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

As to why the solder wouldn't adhere to the PCB, there are a lot of variables - for example the desoldering and cleanup of the board prior, the solder and flux you used, and a fair bit of it comes down to your technique & skill.
Here's a thread that I found most useful https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1
Before attempting board work, it's worthwhile getting some old dead boards and practicing your technique

Great link !!

#9136 27 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

As to why the solder wouldn't adhere to the PCB, there are a lot of variables - for example the desoldering and cleanup of the board prior, the solder and flux you used, and a fair bit of it comes down to your technique & skill.
Here's a thread that I found most useful https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1
Before attempting board work, it's worthwhile getting some old dead boards and practicing your technique

Most likely pads have been removed during the desoldering process. Sometimes partially and the solder has then nothing to adhere to.

If the solder is not flowing from and off a clean and corroded tip, then it has nowhere to go because there is no heat transfer.

If the tip is of poor quality and corroded the solder will not flow off the tip.

#9137 27 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Most likely pads have been removed during the desoldering process. Sometimes partially and the solder has then nothing to adhere to.
If the solder is not flowing from and off a clean and corroded tip, then it has nowhere to go because there is no heat transfer.
If the tip is of poor quality and corroded the solder will not flow off the tip.

Yep, it definetly looks like this is what happened, too hot, too long, or too old and not liking heat up again...??... figure it out
Sent it out for repair and wonder if they will be able to readd these pads in a way... and make it come alive again

#9138 26 days ago
Quoted from Bohm:

Thank you, I had a lot of doubt after reading different things.

This is great information so thank you. This helped me confirm the coil has voltage and will fire, continuity from the coil to the transistor is solid, the fuse is good and Tip102 at Q20 tests functional and we just replaced it so I'm still at a loss. That leaves testing transistor 2N5401 and IC LS374 at I think U2. Kind of debating sending the board off or just buying a new one, it has had a lot of work done to it and I'm a novice at board repair.

I reached the end of my abilities and gave up diagnosing and bought a replacement Rottendog. Figure I would send out the old board for repairs and have an extra for me or one of the guys in the area.

New board cured my drop down target issue but now the upper half of the back box GI doesn’t light up, also the lane change function and entering initials don’t work , which is weird but it’s clearly tied to the new board since they seem to work with the original board.

Recommendations where to buy a new driver board because I’m sending this one back and who do you like for repairs. I’ve had Ks Arcade repair a board for me but it looks like they’re not doing that anymore

#9139 26 days ago
Quoted from Bohm:

I reached the end of my abilities and gave up diagnosing and bought a replacement Rottendog. Figure I would send out the old board for repairs and have an extra for me or one of the guys in the area.
New board cured my drop down target issue but now the upper half of the back box GI doesn’t light up, also the lane change function and entering initials don’t work , which is weird but it’s clearly tied to the new board since they seem to work with the original board.
Recommendations where to buy a new driver board because I’m sending this one back and who do you like for repairs. I’ve had Ks Arcade repair a board for me but it looks like they’re not doing that anymore

Populate your own driver board with one of Victor’s designs (pinsider dumbass)

05FF2916-AB1A-44EB-A244-DB9884761B2C (resized).jpeg204F865C-53B1-48BA-AD53-0C689F7DA101 (resized).jpegEE9F6C7D-567A-4BA1-8756-D5A76DD4A12B (resized).jpeg
#9140 26 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Populate your own driver board with one of Victor’s designs (pinsider dumbass)[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What do you mean by populate?

#9141 26 days ago
Quoted from Bohm:

What do you mean by populate?

Install the parts yourself.

#9142 22 days ago
Quoted from Bohm:

What do you mean by populate?

yes populating the board means that you source and install the parts yourself using an soldering iron, or in other words, hand soldering the board rather than using a machine like the factory did back in the day.

That said, I just finished my second batch of PIN2DMD screens. I usually make 10 at a time and they are currently all sold out / pre sold thanks to a group of pinsiders.
I am just waiting on the last shipment of LED panels and they are all going out the door soon.

I produced some for myself and installed it on my TSPP, the files for TSPP are not free and the author requires a 'donation' of about $30 after all fees are said and done (PayPal) BUT, Terminator 2 files are free. The author that made them decided to released them for free.

So if anybody wants a screen I have one left (that I kept for myself) but I am happy to sell. I only advertise the screen in either thread of games I own or owned previously, so you will see me talking about this on the TSPP thread, Indiana Jones and also here.
I no longer own Indiana Jones nor T2 but those did have and still do have a pin2dmd screen in.

If you want the screen, let me know, it is actually ready to be shipped (the rest are waiting for more panels). Once these batch in complete, I can always make more, the turn around for production is 2-3 months due to parts shortage, so I will be selling these to people that ask for them and get themselves on a list.

screens are $350 per unit plus cost of colour files as needed, includes the wire harness to connect to your driver board and memory card with files pre loaded if you need them or you can load yourself and pay the author of the files as needed. T2 is free.

if you would like me to preload paid files, I would require pre payment for the files as needed so I can pay the author. Paid files are linked to a specific screen and cannot be shared nor used on a different screen, therefore I do not wish to buy files I do not intend of using, which is why I ask for your cooperation and paying in advance . Paid files will not work in another screen, so do not waste your energy trying when you get your screen.

Here is my TSPP

Thank you

#9144 15 days ago

I am installing my Cliffs set on my T2 and have three pieces that I’m not sure about. One of the goes on the drop target under the skull, but there’s another rectangle that I don’t know it’s location as well as a long bar with a slight bend crease in it. The fluffy website says one is a Outlane Drain protector but not sure precisely where that’s meant to go. Anyone out there who installed Cliffy’s set have any tips?

F799E9BE-5717-4DB4-94A6-69753421C8F7 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#9145 15 days ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

I am installing my Cliffs set on my T2 and have three pieces that I’m not sure about. One of the goes on the drop target under the skull, but there’s another rectangle that I don’t know it’s location as well as a long bar with a slight bend crease in it. The fluffy website says one is a Outlane Drain protector but not sure precisely where that’s meant to go. Anyone out there who installed Cliffy’s set have any tips?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Cliff's picture consistancy is poor for having pics of each piece for every game, but these pics should help...
WH20-ejects-inst001 (resized).jpgfishtales-drain-002 (resized).jpg

#9146 15 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Cliff's picture consistancy is poor for having pics of each piece for every game, but these pics should help...
[quoted image][quoted image]

thanks for these. Big help! Question, what’s the second picture of? I realize it’s not T2 but not sure what I’m looking at.

#9147 15 days ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

thanks for these. Big help! Question, what’s the second picture of? I realize it’s not T2 but not sure what I’m looking at.

The ball return trough under the arch (apron). Take the apron off, you'll see wear in that spot, center the protector over the wear.

#9148 15 days ago

This will help...

DSCN7404 (resized).JPG

DSCN7389 (resized).JPG

#9149 13 days ago
Quoted from Averell:

This will help...
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

those cliffy things are only great at being ball traps, the saucer might work well. If you want to save yourself some hassle, I would mylar the edges down.

#9150 13 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

those cliffy things are only great at being ball traps

Not usually, but I agree that I would worry about a slow roller getting stuck in between those 2 cliffy's. But probably nothing a little nudge wouldn't fix.

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