Anyone knows what controls the bulbs to the "auto fire" insert?
If they are not working, where/what to troubleshoot except for the obviuos (lamp sockets)?

That's pretty cool, but the first video shows a flutter/glitch type movement in the eyes? Is that really happening? Not good, if it is.

That is the sequenze it use when you hit the hunter ship with the Canon. It looks really cool. If you miss then it have an led above the 5 it have In a straight Line so it can emitate Roll eyes.

I'm sorry. What exactly does that mean?

Watch the first video Sehested posted - I noticed something strange with the eye movement as well but it doesn’t happen the the second video or on any of the clips you’ve posted, so I wonder if it was an issue with the video??

In the first video we see the game end sequence. Here all flasher are wildly controlled and here also all patterns of the eyes run through. Except for the rolling eyes, because that would look strange here.
As Sehestedt already mentioned, this is a special effect as soon as the huntership is hit. It would be conceivable to take this out here, but then it would look exactly like the Payback Time. A little bit of variety is allowed
@Brett, I haven't forgotten you. I'm still waiting for feedback from Scott.
Frank

So how many T2 owners have changed out their skull eyes for something a little more fitting? I think we all feel there’s just something “off” with the eyes the way they are. Well I was lucky enough to purchase the skull eyes mod from Gnassel (Frank). When he first posted his mod I knew I had to have it. It is exactly what the game has been needing. The eyes look towards the ball at certain times such as when the ball is on the wire ramps, in the left saucer, in the pop bumpers…an absolutely must have mod for this title. If this game was currently being produced by Stern this a mod that would probably only be available in the Premium edition and we’d all gladly pay the extra for it! Frank is a great guy and made sure I was happy with the mod. Even though he’s located in Germany he was always available to me via text in case I had any questions or problems, but installation was very easy. Trust me, if I can do it anyone can. Take a look at the quick video I made, then contact Frank. He’ll help make your T2 skull look the way it should have when it left the Williams factory. Oh and by the way, you might as well snag the lit ramp signs from him while your at it!

Hi friends . I need I need help... it was happening to me that a line of light was very weak... now it doesn't turn on anymore and maybe it turns on a little and stays off... I don't know what to do anymore... please help me!!!

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What's the issue? You need to describe what you are doing and what is happening. I'm not sure what you mean by "a line of light was very weak"

Are you saying that the machine doesn't start up when you turn it on (but you've posted pics of the PF with lights on)? Or are you saying that you can't start a game?

Looks like he lost power on a lamp column.
As far as I can tell by the pics…

I think he means a GI string is out. Probably just a fuse if that's the case.

Arh yes possibly - it looks to me that both the central string (CPU lights) and the right string are both out

Asanteiro if it's your GI lights that you are referring to you can go into test mode and check which light strings aren't working. Then use the below to check the fuses for those strings and if they are ok then check the connections / connectivity from the power driver board to the GI lights.

T2 GI Fuses (resized).jpg

T2 GI connections (resized).jpg

Hello,

I have a question regarding the adjustment A.2 21 "Drop Target Down Multiball" in the service menu.

pasted_image (resized).png

I can't find a description for this function.
Can someone tell me, for what this setting is used for?

During multi ball the drop target normally starts in the up position, so it takes 2 shots (the first to drop the target) to lock a ball into the skull. With this setting enabled, the drop target does not raise at the start of multi ball so the first shot to the skull will lock.

You're correct about the setting (it lowers the drop target at the start of multiball if it happens to be up.) Although a slight clarification - the game doesn't intentionally raise the target at the start of MB, it just stays in whatever position it was in. Most often it will be down anyway, from when the gun was loaded to start multiball.

The exception is for starting multiball via the escape route, in which case the drop target will be up, unless this setting is set to drop it.

The other exception is if you just barely beat the timer into the skull, such that the drop target timed out and reset before the ball settled onto the switch in the skull.

Excellent - thank you for information.

I think that the drop target function must work differently.
When a multiball starts, it must stay down.
As soon as a ball is locked in the skull, the drop target must stay up.

Hey all. I was having some battery issues with my MPU board, so I replaced it with a new Rottendog one. I installed it and everything was working great at first. I went back in a few minutes later to tighten the screws on the board a bit and now my gun / plunger isn't firing. I checked all the wires etc and nothing seems loose but just curious if anyone here had any first troubleshooting solutions. Not sure if I blew a fuse on it or something. Thanks so much! G

Go into test mode - check the shooter lane switch is working and test the plunger solenoid. This will determine which is causing the issue

Battery problems? …. Acid?
If yes check your molex connectors at the cpu and see if the terminals are green.

Green= corrosion due to battery acid, and this will cause intermittent connections at the switches.

Has anybody ever replaced the spring that goes into the gun? I bought a new spring from marco, but I feel it's too big because I can't push it down far enough to get the screws back on

If you're talking about the gun handle/shooter grip, I have, part #10-304 from Marco, and it works fine.

yes, that's the part I got. I'll snap a picture of it later today

Messed with it when I got home. Turns out I was putting metal piece on backwards. All good now

Was playing with test menu and settings and suddenly in test the menu freezed up, no exiting via black left button possible !!

Did an on/off and now I have a scrambled screen at start and no sound and LED D19 and D20 in on position.
When I remove the ribbon cable for audio on the MPU (upper left) the playfield comes alive and I can play, but no display, no sound.
Did a reseat of all ribbon cables and cables going to MPU board, no effect.
The LED on the DMD board is on. Also did a reseat of display cables.

Suggestions ?

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I believe the cable you unplugged also goes to the dmd board? My guess will be the issue being on the dmd board itself.

Try leaving the ribbon cable connected to the mpu and sound board but unplug it from the dmd board. If it works with sound then you know it’s the dmd board.

I had this problem recently as well. Was working fine then one day nothing worked. Tried re-seating all the ribbon cables a number of times but still didn’t fix it.

In the end I re-flowed solder on the ribbon cable pins on the actual dmd board and this sorted it out.

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Left cable connected on sound board and MPU, MPU LED's are reacting ok
D20 blinking, D21 fix on; D19 off
No audio, (and of course no display)
Playing a game goes ok...

Ok so the game boots when the dmd board is disconnected, but with no audio either. I still think the issue is with the dmd board.

Do you have another working Wpc game? If you do, Put the dmd board from that game in T2 and then plug everything in and try again.
If it all works, that would confirm the issue is with the dmd board. You could also try the ribbon cables from the other game as well. It’s a case of process of elimination.

Or have you tried plugging the ribbon cable into the mpu and dmd boards in but leaving the sound board unplugged? If it dosent boot that would also indicate the dmd board being the issue.

I would try re-flowing the solder on the ribbon cable pin connectors on the dmd board.

Took DMD board from my Getaway, no changes !!

so as soon as I connect a DMD board the MPU board seems to start flipping, D19 on, D21 on, D20 off...

If It doesn't boot with just mpu and dmd connected, that does point to the dmd board imo.

Yeah I don’t think it will be the ribbon cables but worth testing just in case.

Swapping the dmd board out for the one in your getaway will confirm. I put the one from my Addams in and it worked straight away.

As written , Getaway board works the same way (no display, no sound) in T2 and....
T2 board works fine in Getaway !!!

So it's something else..... anyone, ideas?

Ribbon cable?

I assume you swapped the ribbon cable between the 2 games... If you didn't mess with any hardware when the game went nuts in test mode, I would suspect the RAM chip.

If you swapped over the ribbon cables from getaway as well and still have the same issue, then it could be the ram chip?

swapped cable... no effect...
RAM chip is not something I have in spare ...
You mean the L-x chip (Have a L-8)

Thats the ROM. The RAM chip is U8 on this diagram... It will likely require some soldering skills to change. install a socket and upgrade to NVRAM if you're going to do it.

WPC CPU Board Diagram (resized).jpg

Did you swap both ribbon cables to the DMD board or just the top one that daisy-chains with the sound board? My understanding is that the daisy chained ribbon cable sends command signals & addresses. The addresses reference the specific call-out and music held on the sound ROM (that is on the Audio board); as well as addresses to animations to display on the DMD from the DMD controller board. However the DMD controller board doesn’t have a ROM with the animations on it, but rather it has a RAM chip that is loaded with the animations at boot time from the game ROM chip on the CPU board. These animations are passed to the DMD controller via the second ribbon cable that only connects the CPU and DMD controller boards. If you haven’t already tried swapping the 2nd ribbon cable, I’d suggest doing this - make sure the game is off when swapping the cables. Typically scrambled DMD images are ribbon cable or RAM chip.

Of course this doesn’t explain why you aren’t getting any sounds - when you turn the game on, do you get the single “dong” sound? This indicates that the sound board is working correctly

If you want to confirm the issue is on the CPU board, you could swap the CPU boards b/n the T2 and Getaway - you’ll need to also swap the game ROM chips on the CPU boards.

Just swapped other cable as well but no effect

Have one dong at start, when only flat cable is connected to audio board and not to DMD board. If DMD board is connected as well NO dong...

Wille change CPU board with Getaway one today (CET time)

Chip I have on mine is a MS6264L-10PC, are both types ok to use ?

NVRAM ? you mean there is a RAM chip integrating Nvram ? model ?

FM1608

Thanks Manny! I went into test modes. Shooter lane switch is working but plunger solenoid isn't. So weird since it was working when I had the new board loosely installed, then stopped working when I tightened it up. I tried loosening it a bit but didn't make a difference.

The manual says the plunger plugs in at J127, so I checked that, replugged it etc.

Here's a little video of the new board installed, in case anything leaps out.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k10aik9ucd2d04g/IMG_3048.MOV?dl=0

Thanks so much for the guidance! G

So check you have 50v at the plunger coil. Check the resistance of the plunger coil. If both of these test good then try grounding the driver transistor tab for the plunger solenoid, if that works then test your driver transistors - the Pinwiki WPC webpage will give you details of how to test

Thx!!

Gonna see if I can get hold of on quickly, in the mean time I'm gonna try my Getaway CPU board...

Just did a swap and now it works fine...

Is there a way to test this U8 to be sure that's the exact cause before soldering it out ?

Unfortunately not with it soldered in place, you'd need a Williams test set for that. All your symptoms indicate a RAM issue, and i'm quite confident that is the problem. The fact that this started when you were in the game settings (which are stored in the RAM chip) when the problem started, is the primary factor in my diagnosis.

Quite a few people see their RAM chips fail in games 20-22 years old, especially ones that were heavily routed and powered on the majority of its life. Upgrading to the NVRAM will give you the benefit of current tech and eliminate the need for batteries. You should also de-solder and remove the battery holder from the board while you have it on bench.

Hello friends ...
How are !!!!
I tell them that I solved the problem of the lights, under the Pf had a cable almost cut .. black / red color.
I cut it and put it back together.
Issue solved !!!!

ok, thx

Last question: I see FM 1608 P (64KB) and FM 1608-120-PG (no idea what 120 and G stands for)
Is first one ok as that's the one my regular supplier has available.

Standard RAM is a 28-pin FM1608-120... 120 is the chip speed, ignore the letters after. This is probably NOT NVRAM unless it specifically says so.
For NVRAM, google "RAMTRON FM1608 NVRAM" and order one from a pinball supplier that will ship to you, sorry I cant be much help for the German market.
Make sure you get a 28-pin DIP socket for it and solder that onto your CPU.

Thanks Manny. You've always been a big help to me (and lots of others on here).

I'm still learning, so I got scared of some of those tasks and terms haha, but I sacked up and turned on the machine to get started....

And now the plunger is working again... haha

Will see if it starts acting up again but hopefully not.

Thanks again,

G

so this is ok despite the 120 is missing ? Or do I need to make sure it has a speed of 120 (ns I guess)

fm1608 (resized).png

FM1608 is nonvolatile : https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/82469.pdf
There are no "volatile" versions of this chip.
I have ordered from AliExpress and have not had any issues whatsoever.

Yes, that will work.