Please keep me on the list. I'm in.

deleted

My board doesn’t have a hole big enough to clear the white disc of the motor to mount it. Possible an aftermarket board?

Is this just a static version, no movement?

The board and motor look like the original. Mine is mounted the same as jibmums

Note that the motor terminal lugs go through the PCB - so where you have wires soldered on should be holes to let the lugs come through the PCB and in doing so the inner center of the end to the motor will then be able to slide into the hole on the PCB, such that the PCB sits flush on the end of the motor. If still having issues maybe post some new pics showing the issue

Here is the version from above, but additionally with tinting film. With it it is no longer so bright. If you want to install it in a topper, you can easily remove the foil again.
Again, the T800 can look in 6 different directions. From left to right and upwards.
IMG_1075 (resized).JPGIMG_1076 (resized).JPGIMG_1077 (resized).JPG

I will soon open a separate section so as not to bother this forum further

It would be nice, and not that difficult, to install a small trimpot allowing you to adjust the brightness to your liking.

**Solved**
Ok I finally figured it out. When you start a game and it kicks the ball to the shooter lane, if the balls in the trough do not roll forward to activate the right trough switch and you hit the skill shot you will start multiball. The balls were not advancing all the time due to the incline of the game. I had a incline of about 8 deg. and this I guess was to much for the ball advance forward. I have the game set at 6.5 deg. now and balls always advance to the right trough switch and no more rando multiball at the start of a ball.

Can somebody tell me if this is the correct coil sleeve for T2 flipper?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7066-4

yes

Im currently coming to the end of my T2 restoration and thought I’d share a mod that I made a few months back but have only just got to the stage where I could install it.

Its a simple dress up mod for the start button on 90’s Bally / Williams cabinets to cover up and hopefully avoid any future ware to the decals around the start button.

I made these for all my games and each ring 3mm thick and machined from 303 stainless steel.
That way I thought it gave me different options in regards to finish depending on my games. The one on my Terminator 2 has been chrome plated to match the rest of the game.

It’s fixed in place with ultra thin 3m tape. I used the exact same spec 3m tape that comes with Cliffy protectors so it should come off.

B91C0B73-F36A-4BA0-BF25-755F7FE51425 (resized).jpeg8833153F-CBCC-4AD9-A383-411A4245F537 (resized).jpeg071E2CF7-25C2-40AA-918E-D7FD8D35845F (resized).jpeg6E80D98A-740D-49B7-8365-541808A75BF0 (resized).jpeg

Are you planning on selling these?

If there was enough interest, yes I probably would. I’ve got a few spare at the moment.

Interested!

Just rebuilt my flippers a week ago and everything was great. Tonight I fire it up and the right flipper goes dead. No movement. Tests show the switch is firing on the DMD. The wires look good and connected. No idea what happened. Any ideas? Everything else works fine. Thanks for any insight.

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

Do you have 50V at the coil lugs? If not check your fuses

The flipper button cabinet switch is registering as working, yes. But looking at your coil, the solder looks pretty weak and connections don’t look the greatest so I’d be willing to bet it’s that - a bad solder connection on your flipper coil on one of those 3 lugs.

Yes, it almost looks like the wire was just wrapped around the lug and not soldered?

Fuse blown. And pretty common issue. Unless you recap the driver board. Look in the book for the fuse number. Good luck.

Update. I changed the F102 fuse and the flipper works. Except when I hold it down. There’s a hum and the fuse goes. Could this be the EOS?

Yes. It could also be the shoddy soldering to the flipper coil as previously mentioned.

Here is how I wire my flippers, some say overkill, but I have not issues from customers

20201129_102808 (resized).jpg

Looks like your right EOS needs some adjustment... Its not closed.
And its odd that you use a plunger spring AND a pawl spring. Not typical.

Nope, works perfectly and perfect. Looks can be very deceiving.

It was the EOS. It wasn’t opening when the flipper bar was fully engaged. A little bending and bingo.

Help! According to pics I find, I should mount the gate on the post found at the blue arrow, not at the red arrow as showed in my pic.
However, doing that will make the plastic rise since the gate-bracket will get in between.

Can anybody confirm that I should indeed move the gate to the blue arrow?

Thanks!

20220414_164609 (resized).jpg

I think yes. On mine, the gate is at your blue arrow. The plastic is indeed slightly higher, it sits about 2 mm above the edge of the ball guide. It doesn't look like this attachment is causing the spacing - the post at your red arrow is tall enough to create that clearance by itself.

I’ve just put comet leds in my T2 and noticed that 3 of the bulbs immediately flicker and not a steady on then off when in attract mode. All other bulbs seem fine.

It’s the bulb in the middle and one at the end of the below video.

I’ve tried swapping the bulbs, and they work fine in other sockets. I’ve reflowed the solder but nothing has fixed it. All 3 are connected to the J133-2 string (red/black wire). I also tried re-setting the connector but still no change.

Can anyone advise me on what is causing this?

That is the best coin door I have ever seen, Ant-H ! Where did you get it ?

Here are before and after resto pics of mine, both have gate mounted where you have the blue arrow. I was concerned during reassembly also, but haven't given it a second thought since.

before (resized).jpgafter (resized).jpg

is the mylar around the pop bumpers factory? what about right next to the drop targets on upper left pf?

Thanks. Morpheus is your guy.

Following on from my flickering led issue, I’ve just tried it in game as well and they also flicker slightly even when they should be off.

It’s the bulbs for both the left and right vault key insert. I’m really stumped as to what could be causing this.

Here’s a video of them during game play

Whilst trying to get to the bottom of the flickering leds, I thought I’d finally wire up my T-800 eye mods on the cabinet and back box.

5602BD55-CFDC-4C6A-894F-260CA745C146 (resized).jpeg

765B2DA1-5204-45A3-A498-F2EF4D4B2F3E (resized).jpeg

Looks like ghosting that can be solved via patching the rom. Shoot me a PM if you need help with this.

Yes, it’s definitely the blue arrow. I remember I had the same dilemma when I refitted mine a couple of weeks ago.

9A4A0CB0-B6E4-4D9C-9339-FFA5F1042C31 (resized).jpeg

Would this still happen even with non- ghosting leds? It’s strange, I only have the problem with these certain 3 bulb sockets.

I'm not 100% sure but I think it's possible. I use regular LEDs without any non-ghosting features myself with the non-ghosting rom and it works extremely well.

I have comet 2 SMD in my T2 in all insert controlled lamps as well as in the GI and none of them appear to flicker. They aren’t “non-ghosting” either, just regular.

Missing my T2 and wanted to check in.

Question, has anyone updated the playfield hinge bracket with perhaps a later version such as that one used in IJPA or perhaps Stern?

I find Stern bracket to be the best one as it makes maintenance on a PF a lot easier, easier cleaning etc.

Have started repairing and making my T2 into a chrome edition - a few swear words (mistakes) but I am learning

571DE54A-9479-4728-8164-F53D9B668BB5 (resized).jpeg

30E1735A-C215-45DF-836E-974F8DD19722 (resized).jpeg

13484D46-5406-42C3-B72B-6FAA8989F971 (resized).jpeg

Curious about this too. I really hate the service “stick”

If and when I get a t2 this will be the first mod I’d do to it.

I am no longer in the club (owned it twice), so I am looking for someone in the Continental US or Canada that is willing to take pictures of my lenticular apron cards installed in their game in exchange for a free set. The first person to reply to in this thread will be the recipient.

Store Link-
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1289-youbentmywookie/06751-terminator-2-lenticular-3d-apron-cards

Simulated 3D-
T2.gif

Videos-

I'm in!

Awesome… pm me your address!

Thanks everyone!

PM sent

I have brought a pair of the T2 eyes mod from Gnassel and I can highly recommend them. He is a straight up guy and if you want to make either your skull or a custom topper more inactive this T2 eyes mod is the perfect way to go The mod is really well put together and top notch quality. Instead of using the eyes in the skull on the playfield I worked with Gnassel to be able to install them in my custom T-800 topper. He was really helpful getting the size and cable length to fit for a topper compared to the playfield skull. The eyes are really bright and even the small LED used gives more than enough light for the eyes in the topper.

Beside Gnassel's T2 eyes the topper is 3D printed with silky silver PLA to give it the metal likeness of the T-800. The base is printed in Black and then the T-800 letters are painted with silver metallic paint. The model was found on thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3163402 and printed in 60% size of the original (the reason for this was due to limited ceiling clearance above the machine. Behind the shield is a cool white flasher installed. I also want to install a red LED strip on the back of the base to light up the wall behind in red, but I didn't have one in stock so have to wait until I get one.

Here is a couple of video of the topper in action

T2 topper1 (resized).jpg

T2 topper2 (resized).jpg

I'm the lucky recipient of the T2 apron cards. I took some pictures but they really don't do these cards justice as they are hard to photograph. They really look fantastic in person.

IMG_4181 (resized).jpgIMG_4178 (1) (resized).jpgIMG_4180 (resized).jpgIMG_4183 (resized).jpgIMG_4184 (resized).jpg

I have a Lighted Pinball Mods Hunter Killer ship that I can have a trusted friend being to Allentown. $75.00. PM me if interested.