Ok I have done switch and coil tests all working fine. ok so when I'm in a game with the glass off and I roll the ball into the lane the kickback coil fires so it does recognise and fire, but what's so so weird when I install the glass back and have a game and the ball drains to left lane the, with the kickback light lite it does not fire. I take this that normal ball game speed is too fast for switch to recognise the ball the kickback function before it hits the ball through. Any thoughts?? the game is level and at the right pitch...

So while the switch is working, the ball is not always triggering the switch. Try adjusting the wire actuator to try to get a more consistent triggering regardless of the ball speed or position

yeah I thought I'll try that and yes that's the fix, I lifted up the wire/bent up more to allow more height and response. seems to work so far yay.

Have a T2 that was underwater for 3 days from floods (3 years ago now). Finally have it resurrected and doing some testing. The cannon shaft seems to have slop in it - can move it around 6mm or so either way. For the first game, ball loaded in the cannon no worries, but then when it went back to the home position, it didn't go all the way - its slightly angeld towards the centre of the playfield, rather than directly in line with the wireform ramp. This means the ball doesn't load into the cannon - just sits at the entrance due to the cannon not being perfectly aligned.

I tried adjusting the switch on the cam under the playfield, but if i make it travel further, the cannon just keeps rotating left and right as it doesn't find the home switch - so it appears the original adjustment was as far as i could go without the switch never being actuated.

When the cannon is in the angled postition, i can rotate it on the shaft no worries back to straight in line. Is there a grub screw or something similar than tightens the shaft up? (Its been a year or so since i rebuilt that mechanism, so can't remember!)

Two issues with my T2 as I was going through it. The PCB board under the cannon is just hanging. Where is it supposed to go? Also, to the left of the right ramp is a post sleeve with a really long flathead screw. Is this stock or a previous owner didn’t fix right. Thanks!

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Are you referring to this post, or a different one? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/179#post-6815354

The post above explains the switches, however my issue is slop/movement in the cannon itself and appears unrelated to switches - i've adjusted the switches and the problem remains. If there is an older post about movement in the cannon and a fix, that would be great. I am concerned it may be a gearbox issue

The gun board should be soldered/mounted to the bottom of that motor where those orange wires on your machine have it hanging now. Here are a couple of pics:

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Here's a photo of what this area should look like.
Your post that holds up the "Skynet Command Center" plastic is correct, but there should also be a metal plate screwed to it that protects the left side of the ramp (and a corresponding metal plate for the right side).

Instead of screws, there should be a flat-top post for the black rubber sleeve behind that, and then two white rubbers should go around the post behind that one, as shown in the photo. I believe the part # for the double-rubber post is 02-4450 and for the black sleeve is 02-4057. Your previous owner did a real chop job on that area!
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Part # for the black sleeve POST is 02-4057......not for the sleeve itself.

Parts - For Sale

T2 Cannon Pivot mount Archived

Used, fair condition - “From my parts pile From a T2 for the cannon assembly 15$ 4$ shipping”

2022-09-01

Sherrill, NY

TheCnyPinGuy

15 (Firm)

Archived after: 44 days

Viewed: 153 times

Status: Not sold

Incase anyone is seeking

Hey Rob - you want to double check that you don't have too much play between the under PF mech and the above PF cannon (there will always be a small amount). Raise the PF and with your left hand hold the linkage arm pointed to with the red arrow (this will remove any play that could come from the gearbox or the linkages), then with you other hand rotate back and forth the cannon. Looking between the gearbox and PF, you'll see a very small amount of the male drive shaft (that comes back through the gearbox) which is held still by you left hand but the female shaft from the cannon (has the circlip on it) will have a bit of play. If the slot in the cannon shaft (or the T-piece on the gearbox shaft) is worn you could be getting more play here and causing your issue. Take a look at the below pics - you'll get what I mean. If of course there isn't that much movement but when you stop holding the drive linkage with you left hand, and the amount of play significantly increases then the issue is with either the gearbox and/or the linkage arms (that you can see in the first pic). To inspect the drive shaft coupling, pull the circlip off the cannon shaft and you'll be able to lift the cannon off from above the PF

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Thanks for this! I had no idea. I cant seem to find those metal plates that go on each side of the ramp. Any idea what part they are?

The Skynet ramp protectors you can get from Cliffy http://www.passionforpinball.com/t2.htm

You'll find the posts you need to replace those 2 screws on the left side of the ramp are listed in the manual, and you might need some different sized rubbers (refer to the manual and jibmums pics for how it should be setup)

Thanks Brett, that is great info - will see if i have time on the weekend. Also spoke to another guy today who had the same issue after a playfield swap. He said that all cannons have slop/movement....he actually bought a new geatbox and the problem remained with the same amount of slop. He ended up working out that by rotating the whole mech slightly (where it attaches to the playfield), that sorted the issue. I will try that - i can't see any movement in the slottled connection under the playfield, so hoping moving the whole thing clockwise a few mm will sort it

The mod is now done.
New:
Payback Time
Big (oval) or small eyes (round)
The small eyes can also look upwards
When the gun moves the eyes aim for too
Blinking can be switched off
A few random surprises...

If someone is interested, I can build some more. It's quite a fiddly job.
Here is a recent video. Have fun!

Gnassel I would be interested in a set of eyes. What do ya think you would be charging? And is there a price difference between the two?

Will they work when I have an upgraded skull like this one? https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1253-dystopic-pinball/05222-t800-terminator-2

Mod looks very interesting if it could fit in the upgraded skull. Great work!

Gnassel indicated previously that it'll work in replacement skulls - it just leverages the original wedge (T10) socket to physically hold (but not power) the LED eyes. Note that when you replace the skull, you need to retrofit the lamp bracket assembly for the eyes into the new skull, regardless of whether you are using incandescents, LEDs or Gnassel's eye mod.

Here's Gnassel's post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/179#post-6796021

^^^^^ Definitely interested

Well done Gnassel! your mod is pretty awesome. Please let me know once you start selling

So a simple fix for anyone that has a cannon alignment issue like me a few posts above or where there is slop or movement in the shaft and cannon doesn't point straight up the wireform is to just rotate the motor mount slightly. See pic where the original mark was and it's moved slightly and works fine now

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This is how the machine started....

And almost finished

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Hopefully they can be used on the the CreoPinball skull as well. Those eyes look fantastic!

That's the skull I have so if it works with the upgraded skull as expected I'm in. I would love to hear which of the two versions other people prefer and why.

What is the full story here?
I understand this intends to be a joke so I presume the game was trashed?
Which parts did you save

The alternative skull looks really cool. Unfortunately, I do not know how the LEDs are attached there. I only have the original version. Should it be plugged T10 LEDs, then it should go. Otherwise, the LEDs need to be fixed somehow from the inside.

Currently I would like to offer the mod here in the area (Germany) with T2 owners to get feedback. If everything goes well, I will open an extra thread here.

Everything is assembled here by hand. The eyes take the most time because everything is so tiny. Price wise it will be around 200$. Including shipping cost.
But first... testing and waiting for feedback.

By the way, both variants look great.
One version has 6 smaller LEDs. 5 in series and one looks upwards. If you have not hit the target.
The other version has an oval housing. Here are only 5 LEDs installed. They are more powerful. There is still a 6th LED missing, which can then also look up. I'll try to implement that here as well.

Thanks for your interest.

This is the kind of ingenuity I expect from people who make mods, you’ve got a mini controller board and etc all done up nice instead of just finding a random toy and putting a light in it. Very nicely done.

Best mod I have seen in a while!

I am interested in this mod. I love how it looks but the blinking wouldn't make sense to me since there are no eye lids.

Machine was underwater for 3 days in floods, water level was above the DMD. Playfield was actually fine (this happened 3 years ago, so plenty of time for it to fall apart) All boards fine, just a hepa of work pulling and cleaning everything

I cant beloeve the machine survived such thing.
Incredible

Looks great, I am interested.

Gnassel what is the width of the small round T2 eyes?

Im making a custom topper for my T2 and thought that your mod might make it more interactive. The max width of the eyes in my topper is 9mm.

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Looks great! Do you want to paint it then?
Is it a 3D print? Can you send me a cutout of one eye as .STL, then I'll try how it looks built in there.

Here are the dimensions of both variants.
White: over all dimensions, yellow: vissible LEDs

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Yes it is 3d printed. I have printed it with sliky silver PLA so it has a little bit of metal likeness to it. Due to this I don’t want to spend the time to sand and paint it. Some of the small details will disappear in that way.

The eye ball itself is actually 10mm but the outer part of the eye is only 12,5mm. Maybe it would be possible to increase it slightly in a new print. Is there any of the sides of you lamp that could be trimmed slightly or does wires go all the way to the edge?

It would look awesome with a set of your T2 eyes in that topper!

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I got a plastic kit and have these two triangles with serial numbers on it. Where do they go?

Question 2. Rebuilding the flipper. Does the yellow resistor go a specific direction or is it any way goes onto the EOS switch. There aren’t any directional markings so I’m assuming it’s the latter.

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+1

The yellow (capacitor) is not polar and can be installed either way.

The triangle pieces are to stop trapped balls, see this post (click on it to go directly to it with pics):

The yellow part is a capacitor. No specific direction

The plastics are there to avoid balls getting trapped...not sure if I have a pic right now

I've placed these plastics this way... sometimes multiballs may bounce all around that area.
These plastics help to prevent damage.

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They keep the ball from getting stuck on those two areas.

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Silver Pla, great idea!

12mm? Sure

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And Eyes Version #3

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I’ve been noticing the right sling firing about 90 percent of the time when I hit the right ramp. I can’t tell if it’s when I hit the switch or if it’s a vibration thing. Sometimes both slings will fire when the ball is somewhere else. I don’t think this is part of the gameplay. What would I look for ghost firing of a solenoid? They work fine whenever the ball hits the leafs behind the rubber.

Leafs too close and making contact when they shouldn't?

Slide the glass off and go into switch test mode. Then pound on the playfield with your fist. If it triggers any switches then you will know that some leaf switches needs adjustment.

Did you recently replace the sling rubbers? I find that new rubber is typically tighter than the rubber being replaced and can push the gap on the leaf blades closer together causing this to happen. If so, slightly adjust the gap as suggested above.

I’m so in!