I bought and installed this in my T2. It's one of the most professional well designed mods I have on any of my machines. It's expensive, but once you get it and see the quality, the high price makes sense.

I want to join! Just bought a T2 last week from a friend as my second pin. Very good condition and plays great after a good scrub down and wax. Slowly and methodically going over the machine to fix or replace a few things before I add a few tasteful mods. Having a blast playing it so far (posted up a 210M score this morning) and I feel it compliments the Whirlwind next to it very well.

Lots of great info in this thread. I'm slowly reading through it and taking notes of all the cool stuff you are all doing to your machines. I'll keep an eye on this thread and pop in to help if needed.

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good lookin machine! bravo sir. im a big fan of the neo-geo sittin in there too.

your first order of mod business is as follows:
- pinsound+ sound board
- external sub
- color DMD

I would do Red DMD filter versus Color DMD, unless u already have it in there, can't tell from picture. Old School! Change out the Hunter Ship for a nice Die cast model. Change out the skull for a more realistic one.

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+BriteEyes
+NVRAM

Thank you kindly. Just restored the Neo Geo earlier this year.

The first critical mod is a cup holder. Then upgraded sound, subwoofer for both pins, new skull and HK ship. Do you have a color DMD on your T2? The videos I've seen online look a little underwhelming for the high price tag. Not sure I could justify the cost.

Was also considering powdercoating the legs, rails, and gun since I have a guy locally that can do it cheaply. My whirlwind has a gray textured powdercoat that feels great on the hands when playing, I'd like to do something similar but in a different color for the T2.

The previous owner put the red DMD filter in. Planning on upgrading both of the toys. That skull is badass and much more realistic, where can you buy it?

Good call. Cheap upgrades too.

T2 does not need colour dmd, but if its a must, pin2dmd is sufficient.
T2 is the first dmd pin and as such did not get a lot of animations nor a lot of good ones for that matter.
The only cool animation is the t1000 opening the elevator and the hunter ship target during ball launch/miltiball.

Colour dmd is a waste on this game.

The skull ,then add britemod eyes, very easy.
I custom painted my coin door and added the T2 coin rejects from Rocket City.
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That seems to be the consensus from what I've heard and the videos I've seen. Thanks for the input.

Nice, found a few on ebay for cheap. The brighteyes mod will cost just as much as the skull haha. Going to get both ordered. Thanks!

The coin door looks great.

I brought this skull from a seller here on pinside. It looks awesome! Could be a little brittle on the mounting so I cut a metal plate fitting the whole bottom and glued that on. Rock solid after that.

Also the UT2HS hunter killer ship from avo-pinball is just awesome! Expensive, but it transforms the T2 pinball to a much more modern machine.
https://avo-pinball.de/ultimatives-terminator-2-hunter-ship

The pinsound ultimate pack for this machine is also highly recommended. Big improvement to the normal speakers.

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I became a member a few weeks ago and for my first pin, I couldn’t have picked a better one. Pin is in great shape, redid the plastics with the protectors, NG LEDs for the PF and GI, HK mod, Skull mod on its way, and need to replace the right ramp. Here’s a few shots with the mods I added so far.

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I appreciate the shoutout from eyeamred2u on the Coin Reject Buttons. Shameless self-plug, I also make a cool Start Button for this game:

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These are available here in my Pinside shop:
Coin rejects: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/04785-3d-coin-reject-buttons-terminator-2
Start: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/05356-3d-start-button-terminator-2-and-3

/self-plug

For other mods, I agree with some of the others presented above and here are some links and other options:

-- DMD red filter, all you need is a sheet of Rubylith, for example (check dimensions first): ebay.com link: itm
Edit: looks like it's here in ulek's Pinside shop too; naturally I support the idea of buying from a Pinside vendor! https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1012-ulekstore/02173-red-dmd-filter-for-terminator-2-judgement-day-pinball

-- I also did the loot crate skull (and incorporated the Brite Eyes mod into it)
Loot crate skull: ebay.com link: itm
Brite eyes mod: https://www.pinballlife.com/briteeyes-terminator-eye-mod-for-terminator-2-pinball-machines.html

-- Instead of the lighted Hunter Killer ship like some folks have suggested, I used this gorgeous die-cast one:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/CINEMACHINES-Die-Cast-Collectibles-Series-3-Terminator-2-Hunter-Killer-Aerial/284975556

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-- I also found this very cool hi-fidelity T2 skeleton, that I placed in the right ramp:
https://www.amazon.com/FLY-Terminator-Warrior-Skeleton-Collection/dp/B0876B67CX/

Happy modding! Congrats on getting your hands on one of the best games ever!
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I personally think color DMD is the best upgrade you can make on any DMD era game. You’ll always get you money back when you go to sell the game and it looks fantastic. Sure there not a ton of animations on T2, but i still love it.

Also, technically Gillian’s Island was the first Williams DMD game, not T2. Gillian’s came out in May of 1991 and T2 in June. Even though T2 was the first Williams game “designed” with the DMD it’s technically the 2nd Williams DMD game to market.

Love your work, gonna ask for some custom stuff on my Godzilla.

T2 is one of my all time favorites. Loved doing the restoration for my good friend and adding all the cool upgrades.

No need to self-plug... this start button is awesome! The one that you custom made for me has a light blue background base that really fits the machine perfectly. Unfortunately, the color washes out a bit in the pics but you get the idea. Great mod!

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Haha that's definitely been one of my biggest challenges -- they're hard to photograph and they never look as good in the pics as real life. That was a common comment at the two shows I did recently (Pinball Expo and Free Play Florida), "I've seen these online but they look so much better in person!"

Thanks again guys.

I'm working on an improved ramp mod right now.
This ramp mod was released some years ago, but the circuit always had development status.
The new improved circuit is ready so far, but I have to do some wiring and check if it works.
What will the ramp mod do?
There are these two signs in front of the ramps... these sign will be illuminated and the light will be switched from white to red if the related flasher is flashing.

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First test today was successful - it works.

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Final status of the ramp mod beneath the playfield and now it's time to reassemble the top of the playfield.
I had some trouble with the motor regulator board and decided to renew it , so I have unsoldered all the old parts.
I hope to get spare next week.

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Awesome mod.
Because I saw some people talking about Colour screens the other day, just wanted to drop a line saying that I will have 4 Pin2DMD screens for sale, $275 USD, soon. These are new units with Evo boards (latest gen).

If you want one make sure you to contact me so I can put one aside for you, these will be ready in 20 days (estimation).

PM sent

Today I finished the wiring in the backbox.
You can see this machine is equipped with Visaton speakers, PinSound 1 and Color-DMD.
The holder for the laser is ready also.
And the playfield gets more and more complete... using a new licensed set of plastics from BUT.

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it is looking really sweet! I miss my T2

Some progress on pin2dmd.

First screen is ready and in my machine.
Works perfectly.

I will provide the screen, the wire harness and the memory card.
Note:
You will need to pay the artist for the colour files, $10-20 euros depending on the game, and I can preload them in the memory card once you send the files to me.

Good news is T2 has free files available.

Look up Pin2dmd colour files to see a list of games and see if your game has been colorized.

At the moment I only have 3 screen available out of 5, as one of my friends is taking one and I am keeping another.

If you do want one please let me know asap.
I am not advertising this anywhere else other than here and the Indiana Jones thread as these are the only 90s games I care about, that said, these will work on a bunch of other games.
Just look up pin2dmd colour files on virtual pin universe.
Please note that virtual pin colour files are not the same as real pin files.

Installation is very easy.
Plug and play.

Please note:
I will not be making these again any time soon, only made 5 as this is the minimum amount one can order from pcbway.

I am not making more not producing nor selling any other mods.

I was able to reduce costs by putting a lot of my time into these and sourcing parts from different parts of the world, therefore, this is why I am selling for less than other vendors.

That said, I am not selling at cost, there has to be something for me, my time etx, if you do want cost, you can do so by ordering the parts and building yourself producing 5 screens takes about 2 months and can cost anywhere from $500 to $1000 usd depending on the cost of parts when ordering…

Prices are:
$275 usd/$350 cad plus shipping
Includes:
Wire harness
Memory card
Pin2dmd led colour screen

If you do want one, please let me know asap.
No need to pay until it is ready, however, only thing I ask please is do not commit or reserve one unless you are taking it 100% when ready. No holds, no exceptions.

The next 4 should be ready as soon as I receive more chips I am waiting from a vendor abroad. Should arrive in 15-20 days.
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Received the last missing part today, the big capacitor.
Now everything on the board is new and it works.

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Started to mount the new Ramp from Starship Fantasy... what can I say, it fits in perfect, no issues at all.

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Where’d you get the bracket for the sky net plastics that go at the entrances? (Mine are busted)

These brackets are part of the Ramp Mod.
Unfortunately no more available... I had them somewhere in a box for years.
Now, that I reassemble my T2 I try to complete everything I have planned in the past.

The right one works...

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Need some help. My gun all of a sudden isn’t firing. Went through everything and the switch is good. The gun kicker solenoid isn’t firing off in the test. Where should I look first?

Pinwiki.com

If yours isn't kicking during the test, then it may be a different issue (since the test should override the condition I'm about to describe) but posting this again for posterity for guns that don't fire during normal operation/gameplay:

Underneath the cannon (bottom side of the playfield), there's a cam and a switch (with a roller on the leaf) that rides along the edge of the cam as the cannon rotates. The cam has a "notch" that this roller drops into, as the cam rotates. The cannon can only fire when this switch is open, i.e., during the time the roller drops into the notch. Check the position of the switch, and that you hear the switch 'click' open as it drops into the notch (it should open almost immediately as it starts down the slope of the notch). On mine, the leaf had bent a little bit so the switch wasn't 'opening' until it was at the very bottom of the notch, which equated to having a very limited window when the cannon would actually fire.

This is the mechanism, but outside the game.

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Made good progress today... there's only one issue with the drop target, I think the switch or diode is damaged.
Next step is to activate the shaker motor via PinSound 1 and some small electric circuits for LED-Stripes in the cabinet and in the speaker panel.
And of course, I have to replace the skull with a better part.

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Your cannon solenoid should fire in test mode regardless of the switches (ie the cannon opto or the cannon positional home and at mark switches that are all used during the game). I'd begin by checking you have 50V at the coil and if you do have power at the coil try shorting the transistor to see if the coil fires. Let us know what you find

Anyone have a solution as to why I can only enter 2 initials for a high score?

I've not seen this before but interesting that 4 other Pinsiders have experienced this as well on a T2 https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cant-enter-three-initials-for-a-high-score

Have you confirmed that backspace allows you to enter 3 initials (ie what the others experienced)? An what f/w version are you on?

Let me look around, I believe I have the schematics

Here's the WPC Schematics (1993) PDF - the Audio board used in the T2 is on page 14 & 15. As per Pinwiki just be aware that R23 & R24 varied depending upon the pre-DCS game - on T2 they should be 150K (the schematic shows them as 120K) and also R22 & R25 should be 120K (the schematic shows them as 150K)

WPC Schematic Manual 1993.pdf

My bet is that your start switch is wired incorrectly. If the wire that should be attached to the NO terminal is attached to the NC terminal instead, this will cause the problem you are describing.

Question: when you start a game, if you press and HOLD IN the start button, does the game start? Or does it actually start when you release the start button?

Thanks I'll test that tomorrow. I picked the pin up last week. So anything is possible. I can backspace and enter all three letters. But who wants to do that.

Confirmed I can backspace to enter all three initials. Question when entering initials can you use the trigger to advance to the next initial?

Think you'd have to select " " (ie the space character) and then pull the trigger to get it to move to the next initial.

Did you check how the start button is wired, as per EStroh post?

Good Morning and Merry Christmas.

I am trying to get some help as it seems I am having trouble tracking down a wire location on my T2. I can find the wire in the manual, but I can not figure out where it states what game piece the wire ultimately ends up/terminates? When removing my Drop Target mech, I found the wire disconnected and by the length it seems that it would go somewhere around the area of the drop target mech. I assume it may have come loose when I was removing the mech, but I am not really sure? It is a white wire, with a violet stripe. It comes from J209-7 of the CPU board. Any help would be greatly appreciated, either by visual identification where it goes, or anyone that could tell me how in the manual it defines where this wire terminates.

Thanks in advance,
Patrick

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The non-banded side of the diode, but I think that wire goes to the switch for the drop target, not the coil

How many wires are on the switch on the non banded side that are white w/purple? Should be 2 attached.