If you are missing the screw & washer and need to replace them, note that they are brass to magnetically isolate the bracket from the coil core. Here are the part numbers if you need to replace them and if you are in the US then Marco has them all in stock
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Edit: I didn't see the lock washer used on mine (although I didn't pull it apart), so it might not have been used

Hi all; I’ve got a terminator missing the Playfield plastics on the left side of the head (colored Playfield plastic to the left of the head with a piece of clear plastic stacked over it)

I need to order those two plastics and the appropriate stand offs and screws. Anyone have detailed pictures of that area or the list of parts for the standoffs and screws?

Check out this documented teardown http://creamyeagle.blogspot.com/2014/05/terminator-2-pinball-tear-down.html

Also the Parts List from IPDB will given you all the specific part numbers that are used - look at the components that make up A-14933 "skull plfd plastic assy"

And if you are replacing 31-1-50013-16 (plastic on the left side of the skull) then you should consider replacing both the left & right plastics (ie 31-1-50013-16 & 31-1-50013-19) as a set as the colour of the repro plastics often vary from the original.

I can attest to this. The left & right of the head plastics I bought off ebay were more of an aqua and dull orange instead of light blue and neon orange. Not terribly noticeable if you play with the lights off though.

Finishing up my T2.

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Hey what's up guys!

Owned a T2 since 2014 but just officially joined pinside and wanted to say thanks for all the helpful technical information, insights and links in this club that has kept my pin going!

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Couple of chromies on the go..one for me, one for a friend

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Why you gotta make me miss my T2 so much? :/

He'll be back

Hi all!
Just joined the T2 club.
Here some mods i made to boost my T2 pinball.
T800 SKULL and Hunter Killer interactive lights:

If you like them, all my mods are available in my shop on Pinside.
thanks

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Can someone post a picture of the wires connected to the illuminated start button. My start button is not original, I am going to purchase the factory one part # 20-9663-3 and want to make sure I wire it correctly.

Thanks In Advance,
Pete

Here ya go

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Thank You so much.

The Classic Pinball Podcast just released an episode featuring this game:
https://podbay.fm/p/the-classic-pinball-podcast/e/1627380464

Can someone, ANYONE, please tell me how the feet on the legs should be set on this game? I had them all flat but the play seemed slow so I raised the back and it drains like a MF now.

Thanks Manny!!

Typically set the PF angle to 6.5 degree and then adjust if required. Here's the instructions from the manual

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I'm not real tall (5'9") so on my games, I bury the front levelers (with the nut in place), and the rears have about 1.25-1.5" of threads between the bottom of the nut and the leveler pad to hit 6-6.5 degrees. This is based on a W/B WPC cabinet... As far as draining, practice practice practice! If pinball was easy, it wouldn't make any money!

Few more pieces to my chrome edition done...not long now

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I have a quick tech question regarding power to the T2 gun motor.

Is there a reason that T2 doesn't use the +12V from connector J118 position 2? The ground from the motor returns to this connector at position 3.

It seems the motor regulator board is performing the same function as the PDB.

Thanks in advance for any insight you might have.

Hey guys, more frequently I'm getting a kind of a toilet bowl affect when shooting the skull. (Note the wear) It rolls around for a few seconds before finally sitting to lock. Would a cliffy's stop this from happening, make it more difficult to lock? Anyone have it installed?

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It's a typical wear spot because the ball is shot up there with speed and can catch the rear edge of the VUK - if you are going to install a cliffy you'll need to fill the wear hole first. The ball can bounce and roll around before settling in VUK but it's not an issue that needs to be fixed.

Looking at your picture, the VUK cap (where the ball settles before being fired up to the load the cannon) is missing or odd looking. See the black cap (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8053) in the below pic and a wonder if that is contributing to what you are seeing

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So that's what this is! The cap has been off and inside the cabinet since I bought the machine years ago and I've never known, probably because I've never had an issue loading the cannon. How difficult is it to replace the assembly? And since I'm there I've been thinking about replacing the drop target so I can light it up red... hard to justify because if it ain't broke don't fix it.

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The VUK and drop target are different assemblies.

You'll need to pull out the VUK and checkout the plunger to see if it or anything else needs to be replaced, or has the dowel pin that holds the cap on simply broken. Page 2-22 of the manual shows the assembly and parts

Oh for sure, I meant since I'm in that same vicinity might as well.

I can already tell that the plunger is broken, the tip is still inside the cap stem above the pin, so I'll just order a new assembly...and I will have that manual handy as I go... thankyou!!

You don't need to replace the whole assembly - more than likely there is nothing wrong with the assembly bracket, coil, cap ...

Also you might struggle to find anyone selling an entire assembly

No no just the assembly I need. No need to replace everything...
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-11336
Again thankyou I wouldn't have known it was broken without your input.

I had the same issue with a T2 that I recently acquired. I did the foam fix per the service bulletin, which by itself does nothing to solve the problem. I then adjusted the switch, as PinballBeast suggested, as follows:

1. Adjust the drop target under the skull so that it is perfectly flush with the playfield.
2. Make sure the drop target is clean and then lubricate it with silicone spray (be sure to control any overspray)
3. Clean the micro switch at the bottom of the drop target with electronics cleaner.
4. Adjust the switch (by bending the lever) so that when the drop target is at the very bottom of its stroke, the switch lever is just resting on the body of the switch. Adjusted in this way, the switch will register as early as possible (to reset the drop target) but will not impede the drop target from reaching the adjustment stop.

Thus far, I have not had a ball stuck under the skull. My fingers are crossed.

I have my T2 up for sale in the market.

Another couple of chromes on the planet....

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With a custom coloration (not as custom as max tho, thank god)

Newbie here and immediately starting off with a weird question. I am playing with thoughts of making some T2 pinball display "statue" to honor all the times I have played on the machines. For that I am looking for 3 parts, the gun handle, and the 2 "Skynet command center" and "articifical intelligence lab" plastics. I know I can get the plastics as repro's (though I prefer the original), but the gun handle is a different story. It doesn't need to function as I only want to make a display with it. Does anyone know where I could perhaps purchase a gun handle to make my display with?

[Images are not mine, they are only used for reference]

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Please see attached picture. The rings I pointed out with the red arrow look to be to big. I used 3/4" inside diameter. Anyone try a different size?

Thanks In Advance,
Pete

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It will be hard and expensive find the gun. I think in pinball Australia spare part they have 1 for 500 bucks. I may have the 2 original and also 2 new signs. Let me know to look for them.

I think I used 1/2 inch Also clear 3/4 are a bit smaller than silicon I think I can remember.

Need some help fellas, my machine keeps blowing fuses.
Even when it’s turned on but not being played it blows them. Any ideas?
Cheers.

Which fuses ?

Yo pull n

If you driver board is original it will need to be rebuilt. Caps bridges rectifiers and other parts as well.

Use a TiltAudio card and you can do just that : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rebuilding-sound-for-de-jurassic-park-using-a-pi

Thought you all might want to see my latest 3D Start button ... nice when I occasionally make one for one of my own games, lol!

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Since this era game has that smaller, recessed button -- whereas today's games (and my mods) use larger 1.5" buttons -- mine includes a new housing assembly & switch to fully replace the original one.

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The housing mounts in the same hole and uses the same wires (4 spade terminals -- no soldering required), and covers up the counterbore in the cabinet.

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A few more pics:

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Available via my website (https://rocketcitypinball.com)or in my Pinside shop (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/05356-3d-start-button-terminator-2-and-3)

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I'm looking for suggestions on what to use to replace the missing wire guide to the left of the red line shown.

I think its #12-6466-45. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6466-45

Thanks.

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You can make your own from piano wire - search Marco's for "piano" will show you various thicknesses they have available. Get one the same thickness as the other wire guides on your machine

Alternately you can use 3/32" welding rod, easily found at Lowes or Home Depot. Use a pair of pliers instead of the "pinball jig" that's available, and you'll get much tighter corners like the originals.

My T2 diamond plate playfield is mylar protected and I would like to remove the mylar using the freeze method. Has anyone had any issues removing the mylar and damaging the paint? Any tips or advice?

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…no problems with my T2 playfield using this method. But you should work very slowly, be patient

Freeze spray worked fine for me as well

Hi everyone. C as n somebody take a pic from motor cannon board and either post it or send it to me. A green wire came loose and I want to resolver it (gun not working now). Thank you

Hope this help

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