I like the skull in that modded T2, way better than the stock Skull I think. Where can I get one? or at least.

THE TWO BALLS UNDER THE SKULL PROBLEM: A FIX THAT WORKS FOR MY PINBALL!

I did some fine tuning to counteract the problem of the 2 balls under the skull.

After these changes I no longer have any problems with the 2 balls under the skull while playing.

First, I applied the tip with the metal under the skull, or as can be found on the internet, the use of foam in the skull.

The problem is just wear on the meganism under the skull.

I replaced this spring, a new one, a little bit stronger:
(See picture 1)

After doing this I made the following adjustment to the switch at the popper under the skull. I have made it so that the drop target shoots back as quickly as possible when it has to be up with a multiball.

(see picture 2)

First, I replaced the microswitch (2).
Second, I shortened the spring of the microswitch (1) so that it can be raised a bit higher. So he can now pass the part where I added the number (4). Normally, (4) stops the spring.

The problem I encountered then was that the spring often went wrong.

With the help of a screw (3) I make sure that this could not happen again.

If you do this, the drop target under the skull will rise again much faster as soon as a ball hits it.

I hope you understand a little bit.

I used google translate for the translation: D

If you have questions, just ask: D

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Tried both of these things and didn't work.

Does everyone's gate swing both ways (sorry to get personal, haha)? I am thinking that might be the problem?

the switch there is supposed to be shaped as an S (sorta), not straight like you have there... I am not sure if this is the issue you are having but your switch installation is questionable and it is probably what it delayed the drop up target etc...
You do not have to angle the switch like you have it there, this is not how it is supposed to be installed.
I am not sure if this what is causing your issue, but could be?

LOL no that's a one way gate and this is probably your issue

It's supposed to be a straight switch actuator based on the manual diagram and part number 5647-12693-31

T2 switch (resized).JPG

Yep, I found post 4850 which explains the differences which is why I deleted the second post. Time to tear is back apart again and see if I put the wrong one back in its place or if I can steal one from another spot. I hate to pay another $20, plus shipping, plus wait to get it corrected.

Below is what the gate looks like - the leg of the wire on the left side (shown with the red arrow) stops the gate swinging the other way and consequently stops the ball bouncing back out like you are experiencing. If you gate swings both ways, then the wire must be broken - you could buy some wire make a replacement one

T2 skull gate (resized).JPG

This helps a ton, I started looking through the images for exactly this. Also great idea about making a replacement, I can probably make something work.

Appreciate it as always!

Update, I fixed it with the metal park of a chip clip (I kid you not). Fit perfectly around the gate to keep it from going to far in either direction.

When I was replacing the fallen switch, mine is shaped so you do not have to twist the switch like he is doing in his picture. The drop target goes beyond that axis in my case. I have to replace that switch anyways as it is old so I will be taking a closer look soon...

With that said, my game is up and running!

full flipper rebuild and also connected the cable coming from the gun regulator that was hanging off at the power driver...

So, NEW ISSUE #1
Now that it is connected the gun moves slower. To confirm this, I took it the cable off the board (it is a single neutral/black cable at J116 or J117 can't remember) and when I do that, the gun then works MUCH faster.

I remember when I bought noticing the gun was noisy, still is, but because it moved so fast I did not care to look into it further... Now that it is properly connected and presume the motor regulator board is doing something, it is showing how truly slow the gun moves...

So.. I did some searches, and it seems like the obvious thing to look for is gunk accumulated in the shaft part of the cannon. I will be also cleaning the gearbox I think as it will be easily accessible.

Anything else that I should be looking for??

The gun works, it fires, but it just moves awfully slow... I am not going to play the game until I figure it out as I am afraid the motor might be working under too much load.

NEW ISSUE #2
The flippers are not a strong as they used to be.
I replaced both coils, all new wiring, all new parts, ALL NEW EVERYTHING. I used coils model numbers recommended in the manual, both identical.
I have read Vid9000 guide on flipper rebuild and I made a better job than what is shown in those pictures, my soldering is flawless and so is my wiring.

I am not sure if I tuned the EOS properly? as in order to leave the 1/16" gap when the EOS is open (VID9000 or whatever his name is recommended in the FLIPPER REBUILD guide here on pinside), I might be engaging the EOS too soon? I can't think of anything else... Throw me a bone here so I can look into it.

But yeah, I noticed I lost some power, maybe this is the game is supposed to be and maybe before the EOS was not engaging making my flippers VERY powerful... I am not sure now.

I have also replaced the cabinet switches. Everything seems to be working very well and no overheating nor HOT coils as of now except for the difference in power. I can make all ramps and make all shots. My game plays how I remember T2 being when I was a kid, it was somewhat weak at the flippers, now it feels like that, before it felt like those flippers were gonna send the ball through the cab.

Send me some love. I am getting closer to the finish line here!

Looking for a set of slingshot plastics. The ones with the tan color not grey.

Thanks,
Pete

quick edit:

flipper are perfect now, the EOS just needing some fine tuning as it was opening too early through the stroke.

Gun:
it was pretty stuck with some old lube, I removed it and cleaned it. The motor no longer whines as it used to so that is good, however, I find the gun maybe moving a bit slow, but it could also be that I am used to when it was very fast (the motor regulator board was disconnected)

This is where I ordered mine from.

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/terminator-2-slingshot-set.html

Curious if anyone has ordered the CPR back glass for their T2. Mine has a translite and have been thinking about ordering a glass.

For me it works, I never have the problem anymore with two balls under the skull. Maybe there are more solutions. The only one for mee is this one
It's not the normal shape maybe but I think the drop target is a little bit worn out. And I found this solution. This doesn't mean everybody must do it. But for my pinball it works

Hello to all count me in,
Im going to restore a T2 in the next weeks, ive got one with a nice playfield, and is working almost 100% (have some bulbs and flashers off) not a big deal i guess.

Where you can find best skull version? Inside Europe if possible.

I have in the buy list...
T2 Skull
T2 Hunter Ship
Realistic LED Eyes for T2 Pinball
Terminator 2 Target Decal
Terminator 2 Slingshot Set
Terminator 2 Plastic 31-50013-16
Terminator 2 Plastic 31-50013-19
Terminator 2 Plastics 31-1-50013-14_15
Terminator 2 Hunter Ship Wire
Terminator 2 starpost set
New Set of Rubbers Transparent
New Leg Levers
Playfield Protector
Cabinet Leg Protector SET (Black Color)

What more is a must have on this machine?
Thanks
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LED/OCD if you'll be using LED's in the inserts. Looks harsh without it, fantastic with it.

Light blue cab/leg protectors match the cab color pretty well, if you decide to go that way.

Word of warning, if you're getting those replacement plastics from Ebay and they're the same ones I got, the light blue and gray won't match your existing plastics, and the orange is nothing like the fluorescent orange on the original plastics. Yours look pretty broken though so I guess you have no choice.

You should be able to get all your parts in Europe pretty easily from the major pinball suppliers over there - there's lot of love for T2's in Germany

Buthamburg (Germany) makes licensed T2 plastic sets (as well as cabinet decals and PFs) and this will mean they'll all match - send Peter a PM

Here is everything I bought, from where, and how much (US).
Slingshot Plastics (Ministry of Pinball) 31
New Rubbers (Titan) 42
LED's (Comet) 139
NVRAM Installed (PS) 25
L8-2 ROM (PS) 16
New Balls (Ball Barron) 10
Metal Decals Pinside (Flashinstinct) 28
Pin Shoes Light Blue - (Coin Taker) 28
Flipper Rebuild/Posts/Brite Eyes (Pinball Life) 74
TERMINATOR 2 (Williams) Hunter Ship (Marco) 36
Misc. Bolts/Gun Fastners (Marco) 53

Dave

Im happy to see a lot of support...

Someone by the skull from ministry of pinball?
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/terminator-2-skull.html

Thanks

Its part of the plunger assembly, the plastic tip is not sold separately.

I may have a used skynet, let mw check when I get home.

Take off the apron cover and look at the assembly. The correct part is A-6306-2, not sure what was used in your game.

Hey T2 owners, who needs a new secondary cable run from the transformer to J115.

I have made a couple and have enough cable to make 5 secondary harnesses, more if needed but time is limited so only 5 for now.

If you own a T2, these are usually in need of some love, even more so if you T2 has been serviced by an operator + chainsaw. lol

I am located in Canada, each harness is about 80 inches long - I can make longer on request -
These are the Yellow / Yellow white cables running from the transfo to your driver board.

The cables will have:

14 amp molex connector
41695 Molex housing at the driver board
New Molex connector at the transformer
Connectors are crimped to perfection using pro crimp tools.
Can also be soldered (after crimping) as an extra precaution if you desire, there will be an extra charge, this is unnecessary as I have tested the crimps on a hundred connections already and are extremely strong. The option is there and the decision is yours, $10 extra.

I do not use the loop method at J115, instead, I fork them off before the connector, making a much more reliable connection. It also looks better.

Cost per harness is $80 USD shipped anywhere in Canada. $100USD for the US.
Includes tracking number.

Cheers
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Hey all. I just replaced the plunger coil and now the ball is hitting the 2nd from bottom target below the ship instead of the middle target when you launch. Is this normal because it's a newer and stronger coil or is it not aligned or something? I purchased the entire setup with brackets, not just the coil. Can anyone provide any insight? Thanks.

do you see the ball bouncing against any ball guides before entering the playfield?
what brand is the coil? sounds like the coil is weak or the mount is not centered.

All games vary a bit and sometimes you'll get these variations when rebuilding coils and mechs. Not all T2's will hit the middle target from the ball launch - as long as it's consistent then it doesn't matter, you just need to adjust your timing on when to pull the trigger

Well, historically speaking T2 was designed to hit the middle, that is how it always played to me since 1992 on the gazillion t2s I played.

The coil is either too weak or too strong.

What coil brand is it? I am curious.

Mine hits the 2nd target from the top from the shooter lane.

It's exactly the same as stock - https://www.pinballlife.com/kicker-bracketauto-launch-assembly-right.html

It seems too strong.

Maybe loosen the screw at the end of the shooter lane ball guide and fiddle with the placement until you get the trajectory you want? I have to do this too, currently my plunged balls hit between the 3rd and 4th target, so it feels like I'm cheating on the skill shot as it accepts either one.

Thanks. Which screw do you mean?

And mine has always hit second from the bottom. It's consistent and I just time for hitting that target.

So I was able to "fix" it. Basically the new coil is too strong, so I had to angle it up a bit so it makes contact with the ball more toward the top, thus launching it a little slower. It hits the 3rd target every time now.

Good to hear you got it sorted.

Another thing that can have a bearing on this is if you've swapped out the rubbers for after-market versions that have a slightly different thickness, as the shooter lane ball guide can be in a marginally different position. This is where you can adjust the trajectory as jibmums had mentioned

T2 ball launch exit (resized).jpg

I have had luck with pincoil brand.
I presume that even though they are marked as the actual part number, the coil can simply be wound up differently and will give you more power, so it is hard to say... when I did my T2 I did both coils just because I did not want to end with different brands and therefore different power on each side, even though I had to do one side only.

Just joined the club. I remember playing it back in the day and finally got one of my own.

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Congrats!!

I have 2 things I just can't seem to fix so off to the expert fellow T-2ers'

The target ights for the cannon are intermittent, they work I can hit the right target at the right time from playing so much and it regristers points or hits but the lights are not on. Works about 50/50

The second issue is the bonus lights on the right start with the 5,000,000 light and progresses down the board towards 250,000 Proper points are awarded jus the wrong lights are on.

Any help is greatly appreciated, gotta it get it working perfect love this game.

I can't say with 100% certainty that mine are correct, but this is how they were when I bought the machine and they're both set up logically to prevent balls from getting hung up underneath; in one case where the plastic meets the red ball guide, and the second case to block off the wire ramp bracket. The one in your photo hanging out there in space is pretty much not helping anything.
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Spin the light PCB around 180 degrees.

Wow sounds so easy, where would I find the light PCB? I have no clue sorry to bother you.

Under the playfield, under the inserts they light up.

LTG : )

Thanks going down to finger this out appreciate it!

TMI

LTG : )

They are to avoid ball hangs and were most likely created after the manual was printed so it doesn't show them. There are actually 3 triangular plastics - jibmums shows the placement of the 2 you typically find on machines ... the third one is a bit more of a mystery where it was planned for (I remember looking into this some time ago but can't recall what I worked out ... old age kicking in)

Hey guys, just picked up a T2, this is my first older game so I fumbling through it. One of my pop bumpers isn’t lighting up. I suspect the lighting isn’t original so I’m trying to match the bulb “PB” is this on an LED? And if so would this
be an appropriate replacement?

Flat Dome 6.3 volt LED
Brand: Titan Pinball
Product Code: LED-Flat-555-WH
Availability: In Stock

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