(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!


By spfxted

8 years ago



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There are 8552 posts in this topic. You are on page 171 of 172.
#8501 9 days ago

Anyway to stop the ball from bouncing back out of the skull when you flush the shot with the right flipper?

I have the game at 6.5 degree.

Raise the back legs higher? Add something to soften when it hits?

#8502 8 days ago

Hey all. I've got a discolored square in my ColorDMD LED. Sometimes it goes away, but it's hanging around a bit.

ColorDMD is only about a year old. Bought New. Moderate home use. I reseated the cables etc, didn't see anything crazy on first glance. Next I'm going to try re-uploading the software via the USB, but just checking if this looks familiar to anyone!

Thanks. G

IMG_9623.jpeg
#8503 8 days ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hey all. I've got a discolored square in my ColorDMD LED. Sometimes it goes away, but it's hanging around a bit.
ColorDMD is only about a year old. Bought New. Moderate home use. I reseated the cables etc, didn't see anything crazy on first glance. Next I'm going to try re-uploading the software via the USB, but just checking if this looks familiar to anyone!
Thanks. G
[quoted image]

That looks to be a bad RAM chip on the DMD controller board. Swap boards between BSD to see the problem move to it and to show the other board works in T2. The part is not in an IC socket unless someone by chance replaced it in the past.

#8505 7 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

That looks to be a bad RAM chip on the DMD controller board. Swap boards between BSD to see the problem move to it and to show the other board works in T2. The part is not in an IC socket unless someone by chance replaced it in the past.

Thanks for the tip. I'll give this a shot! G

#8506 5 days ago

on my progress to rebuilding the flipper after the melted coil, I also decided to swap the cabinet switches.... I got new switches, and it seems like these are shorter than the actual switches that came with the game...

Has anyone replaced the switches with shorter ones? see the pic, I just do not want to take these out to encounter a problem down the road, like for example, the PF interfering with the switch or something like that....

IMG_5476 (resized).jpeg
#8507 5 days ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

on my progress to rebuilding the flipper after the melted coil, I also decided to swap the cabinet switches.... I got new switches, and it seems like these are shorter than the actual switches that came with the game...
Has anyone replaced the switches with shorter ones? see the pic, I just do not want to take these out to encounter a problem down the road, like for example, the PF interfering with the switch or something like that....[quoted image]

Yes, I had to drill new holes, you also have to remove some spacers so there is no interference, especially on the right side.

#8508 5 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Yes, I had to drill new holes, you also have to remove some spacers so there is no interference, especially on the right side.

ok that is good to know, I will not do any of that... I am just going to look for the right part, I think Marcos has it, these look like PBL switches and people complaint of them being shorter.

#8509 5 days ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

ok that is good to know, I will not do any of that... I am just going to look for the right part, I think Marcos has it, these look like PBL switches and people complaint of them being shorter.

I bought from Marcos and still had to drill and remove a spacer so save your money.

#8510 5 days ago

Daisy Chain wire Question.

The Yellow White wire Row 4.

Plumb bob/Tilt Test position (Switch 24) Grip trigger, left sling, High Escape route, Right ramp made, Target 4 and not used.

I know they are daisy chained but I for the life of me cant understand where the White /Yellow wire from the Gun trigger is connected to the playfield or from where it is daisy chained.

I know one White/ yellow wire on the trigger switch is daisy chained to the plumbob tilt.

I know the High escape route is chained to the right ramp made switch, which in turn, is daisy chained to target 4 and from there on to the left slingshot.
,
Target 4, Left sling , Right ramp made and High Escape route all work.

I have a dead trigger switch and plumb bob /tilt switch.

The reason being is that the wire leading to the gun trigger switch before it daisy chains to the plumb bob is either disconnected at the other end or broken from within.

However If I run a jumper wire to the White/Yellow wire lug on any of the other working switches then to the trigger switch at the yellow white lug, the trigger switch and the plumb bob works.

I have started to pull the White/ Yellow wire from the trigger switch out of the harness but am at a dead end as I cannot see where it goes due to the playfield in the way.Its leading to the main Harness Group.

I cannot see or find the first wire in the link as I would think that is the one from the wpc board leading to the first switch. I do not see any missing wires from any of the other switches that should be daisy chained to the trigger switch.

From what I am seeing it appears that one of those switches should have 3 White /Yellow wires connected the 3rd being the one that should go to the trigger switch but nada?

I know this was long winded but would anyone know where the other end of the trigger switch wire terminates?

This way I can see if it just came off of a lug or I can test the wire for a break in the insulation.

I could run a very very long jumper but I hate hacks.

Thanks.

#8511 5 days ago

Cards are spoken for- no longer available

I’m leaving the club and have some spare T2 instruction cards I don’t need. Printed on nice card stock and fits the apron perfectly. Art was downloaded from pinballcards.com. I’m willing to mail them for free in the us to the first three people who respond saying they would like to have them. Totally free, not trying to profit here. Buyer should consider donating to the pinballcards.com like I did when I downloaded them.

63679A7F-0D02-443C-9633-AA4E9CFD9DD9 (resized).jpeg963243EE-86DC-41CD-A915-0BFCCCB190C3 (resized).jpeg

#8512 5 days ago
Quoted from Eddie:

Daisy Chain wire Question.
The Yellow White wire Row 4.
Plumb bob/Tilt Test position (Switch 24) Grip trigger, left sling, High Escape route, Right ramp made, Target 4 and not used.
I know they are daisy chained but I for the life of me cant understand where the White /Yellow wire from the Gun trigger is connected to the playfield or from where it is daisy chained.
I know one White/ yellow wire on the trigger switch is daisy chained to the plumbob tilt.
I know the High escape route is chained to the right ramp made switch, which in turn, is daisy chained to target 4 and from there on to the left slingshot.
,
Target 4, Left sling , Right ramp made and High Escape route all work.
I have a dead trigger switch and plumb bob /tilt switch.
The reason being is that the wire leading to the gun trigger switch before it daisy chains to the plumb bob is either disconnected at the other end or broken from within.
However If I run a jumper wire to the White/Yellow wire lug on any of the other working switches then to the trigger switch at the yellow white lug, the trigger switch and the plumb bob works.
I have started to pull the White/ Yellow wire from the trigger switch out of the harness but am at a dead end as I cannot see where it goes due to the playfield in the way.Its leading to the main Harness Group.
I cannot see or find the first wire in the link as I would think that is the one from the wpc board leading to the first switch. I do not see any missing wires from any of the other switches that should be daisy chained to the trigger switch.
From what I am seeing it appears that one of those switches should have 3 White /Yellow wires connected the 3rd being the one that should go to the trigger switch but nada?
I know this was long winded but would anyone know where the other end of the trigger switch wire terminates?
This way I can see if it just came off of a lug or I can test the wire for a break in the insulation.
I could run a very very long jumper but I hate hacks.
Thanks.

I am new at repairing my pinball machine so take it with a grain of salt and use this reference for both of our education and discovery, lol.

here is a copy of the manual, maybe this is related to the coin door board?

If it is working when you are jumping it, my guess is that the diode in that circuit (look at the picture) must be fried....

But again, I am not an expert sooo.......

Look at J1 position 3, J6 Position 3. The diode in between this too, check it with your DMM

Screen Shot 2021-02-25 at 8.25.32 PM (resized).png

Then check your CPU board for connectors J207-position 2 and J209-position 4 (white yellow cable)

make sure these are all connected to the connectors on the cpu board, cables are not loose etc. If the cables are ok, check the transistors for the colums and rows in the positions mentioned above

Screen Shot 2021-02-25 at 10.23.07 PM (resized).png

#8513 5 days ago

has anybody here replaced the coin door in their T2?
I have the original early model that looks like this:

Screen Shot 2021-02-25 at 11.17.07 PM (resized).png

the only one available new is this one:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/09-61000-X

And I am curious to know if someone has replaced it with that one, and IF the locking bar has to be replaced too?

Currently, in the one I have, the locking bar lever slides in between the 2 coin mechanisms when locked as they are spaced out to each side of the door, and in the door in the later model the 2 mechanisms are closer together, which makes me thing the locking lever I have will not work?

#8514 5 days ago

Anyone know where to find decent overlays to cover wear on the PF?

#8515 5 days ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

Currently, in the one I have, the locking bar lever slides in between the 2 coin mechanisms when locked as they are spaced out to each side of the door

That's not correct - the lockdown lever should be to the right of the coin door opening when locked (well away from any of the coin mechs). While you have the 2 coin entry version, other parts of the world have 3 coin mechs in that door so definitely something wrong with your receiver.

Switching to the later DBV model door will not solve this issue and possibly will be worse for where the lever is

#8516 5 days ago
Quoted from Andrzej:

Anyone know where to find decent overlays to cover wear on the PF?

I saw this mentioned in a previous post:

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/terminator-2/3772/overlay-for-terminator-2

#8517 5 days ago
Quoted from Eddie:

I know they are daisy chained but I for the life of me cant understand where the White /Yellow wire from the Gun trigger is connected to the playfield or from where it is daisy chained.

No, the PF and cabinet switches have their own daisy chains.

You need to check J212-8

T2 switch connections (resized).JPG
#8518 5 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

That's not correct - the lockdown lever should be to the right of the coin door opening when locked (well away from any of the coin mechs). While you have the 2 coin entry version, other parts of the world have 3 coin mechs in that door so definitely something wrong with your receiver.
Switching to the later DBV model door will not solve this issue and possibly will be worse for where the lever is

I guess I was hallucinating... It must be that T2 has been out of commission for 2 weeks now and the locking bar is never engaged so I automatically assumed it fit in the centre, but, it does not...

so, I guess I can replace the door with the new style door? is there any value in keeping the old/early williams door? it is in ok shape but some genius decided to spray painted it grey... I guess I could sand blast it and re paint black...

I am also getting the pistol grip re-chromed professionally soon! bringing T2 to its full glory.

IMG_5485 (resized).jpeg

#8519 5 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

No, the PF and cabinet switches have their own daisy chains.
You need to check J212-8[quoted image]

thanks for that Manny. I guess I was not too far off then, not bad for a newbie huh!?

I checked my boards (to try to help the other owner, but did not find J212... anything J2XX is on the cpu board but that board does not have a J212 connector. what am I missing?

#8520 4 days ago

Thanks for the link. Found this site in my search too, was just hoping to find a good alternative in the states.

#8521 4 days ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

is there any value in keeping the old/early williams door?

Yes!! PM me when you replace it, and i'll buy it from you!

#8522 4 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Yes!! PM me when you replace it, and i'll buy it from you!

I am not selling it if it adds value to the game as I know these are unobtanium.
What is the best way to restore this? Do people care for chrome doors or is it preferred to have the original black wrinkle on them? if so, is that powder coating?

#8523 4 days ago

Personal choice. See pictures in this post. It all depends on what you like and the type of restore you want to do!

#8524 4 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

No, the PF and cabinet switches have their own daisy chains.
You need to check J212-8[quoted image]

Manny I discovered this last night but not through the manual.

My problem was that I was using the switch matrix chart the whole time and it was throwing me off.

Turns out that I decided to repin all of the connectors Including J212 which I wasnt focusing on.

When I pressed in on the wires in its connector I had the continuity. I knew right then it was a connector issue going to J212.

I had just reworked the MPU so I knew the header pins were good.

Was going nuts not realizing that the Gun Trigger considered a cabinet switch!

Wish I saw your post last night, thanks for taking your time to help.

#8525 4 days ago
Quoted from cconway84:

I’m leaving the club and have some spare T2 instruction cards I don’t need. Printed on nice card stock and fits the apron perfectly. Art was downloaded from pinballcards.com. I’m willing to mail them for free in the us to the first three people who respond saying they would like to have them. Totally free, not trying to profit here. Buyer should consider donating to the pinballcards.com like I did when I downloaded them.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I will take a set. Sent pm.

#8526 4 days ago
Quoted from Eddie:

Manny I discovered this last night but not through the manual.
My problem was that I was using the switch matrix chart the whole time and it was throwing me off.
Turns out that I decided to repin all of the connectors Including J212 which I wasnt focusing on.
When I pressed in on the wires in its connector I had the continuity. I knew right then it was a connector issue going to J212.
I had just reworked the MPU so I knew the header pins were good.
Was going nuts not realizing that the Gun Trigger considered a cabinet switch!
Wish I saw your post last night, thanks for taking your time to help.

that is ok, I guess I did not do anything...

where is J212?

#8527 4 days ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

I know these are unobtanium.

Not true, but some individual bits of the complete assembly can be hard to find.

#8528 4 days ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

that is ok, I guess I did not do anything...
where is J212?

On the MPU board

#8529 4 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

On the MPU board

thanks, weird I did not see it last night.

#8530 4 days ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

is there any value in keeping the old/early williams door? it is in ok shape but some genius decided to spray painted it grey... I guess I could sand blast it and re paint black...

That is the original coin door - it looks in good shape and you could simply repaint it. You don't necessarily need to sand blast the door, you could use a paint stripper or simply sand back the door (either by hand or with a wheel on a drill). The DBV coin door that you are thinking about purchasing was never originally on T2.

This clip shows how you can clean up a coin door and recreate the speckled paint that the original coin doors have

#8531 4 days ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

thanks, weird I did not see it last night.

WPC89 CPU board (resized).JPG
#8532 4 days ago
Quoted from Andrzej:

Anyone know where to find decent overlays to cover wear on the PF?

Don’t buy the Pinball centre decal unless you intend on restoring your whole playfield. The decal actually has a grainy top layer for clear coat to adhere to. I got caught by this.

#8533 4 days ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

thanks, weird I did not see it last night.

Yeah, ya get tired and stuff starts disappearing sometimes

#8534 4 days ago

Thanks Manny, I will take a look again to make sure I am not crazy, lol.

On a different topic... I made my own cabinet switch by dissasembling the old and new switches, took the longer blade from the old one and replace it in the new one...

806835D3-251F-4D79-ADEF-4EA5B11C7224 (resized).jpegE0DEB389-B9F3-4A7F-B1A3-9011CC766FC9 (resized).jpeg

Now things are going to be mounted as they should or otherwise the switch gets too close to the coil on the shooter lane.

#8535 4 days ago

further to the cabinet switches, I need a hand identifying a 3rd cable in both my cabinet switches.

Each switch is molex-ed, and there are 2 cables connected to it, however, there is a 3rd cable coming from the box (J110), that is not connected to the them.

The cables not connected are: Black/Blue and Black/yellow for left and right flipper respectively.

Do you guys know what these are and why are not being used?
I can't find this info in the manual, partly surely my fault as I am still not very good with this.

IMG_5493 (resized).jpegIMG_5494 (resized).jpeg

#8536 4 days ago

I am digging in the manual and this is what I see:
Screen Shot 2021-02-26 at 10.57.15 PM (resized).png

So those black wires go into positions 8-9 at J110, according to the schematic, the trace leads to to J109 positions 1-2... I look in my game and there are no cables coming out of J109 positions 1-2...

I presume this wiring is there for games that require more than 2 flippers? or is there something missing in my game?

#8537 3 days ago

Good news Terminator fans...after the last two movies bombed, I was skeptical we'd get anymore out of this franchise. Looks like we're getting a Terminator anime on Netflix in the near future...

"The most terrifying killing machine in sci-fi history is back, just like it promised. Project Power’s Mattson Tomlin and legendary anime studio Production I.G are teaming up for an animated series set in the Terminator universe."

https://twitter.com/NXOnNetflix/status/1365406286557380611?s=20

#8538 3 days ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Good news Terminator fans...after the last two movies bombed, I was skeptical we'd get anymore out of this franchise. Looks like we're getting a Terminator anime on Netflix in the near future...
"The most terrifying killing machine in sci-fi history is back, just like it promised. Project Power’s Mattson Tomlin and legendary anime studio Production I.G are teaming up for an animated series set in the Terminator universe."
https://twitter.com/NXOnNetflix/status/1365406286557380611?s=20

Is that a thing here? I thought only 20 somethings in Japan were into anime.

#8539 3 days ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

further to the cabinet switches, I need a hand identifying a 3rd cable in both my cabinet switches.
Each switch is molex-ed, and there are 2 cables connected to it, however, there is a 3rd cable coming from the box (J110), that is not connected to the them.
The cables not connected are: Black/Blue and Black/yellow for left and right flipper respectively.
Do you guys know what these are and why are not being used?
I can't find this info in the manual, partly surely my fault as I am still not very good with this.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Ottawaflip:

So those black wires go into positions 8-9 at J110, according to the schematic, the trace leads to to J109 positions 1-2... I look in my game and there are no cables coming out of J109 positions 1-2...
I presume this wiring is there for games that require more than 2 flippers? or is there something missing in my game?

They were there for the upper flippers so they are not used - the interboard wiring shows what the connections are intended for

T2 Flipper connections (resized).JPG
#8540 3 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

They were there for the upper flippers so they are not used - the interboard wiring shows what the connections are intended for[quoted image]

thanks Manny for validating that for me and pointing me in the right direction.

Would it be acceptable to remove the wire since it is not needed?

#8541 3 days ago

another question please Manny65, do you know if the capacitor at the cabinet switch (not the Eos) has polarity? I finished the left side but I could not make out what kind of capacitor it is, I presume it is a ceramic capacitor and therefore it has no polarity.
correct?

IMG_5490 (resized).jpeg

#8542 3 days ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

thanks Manny for validating that for me and pointing me in the right direction.
Would it be acceptable to remove the wire since it is not needed?

Why? This is how it came out of the factory and I personally wouldn't change it - then again it is your machine and you can do whatever you want with it.

#8543 3 days ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

another question please Manny65, do you know if the capacitor at the cabinet switch (not the Eos) has polarity? I finished the left side but I could not make out what kind of capacitor it is, I presume it is a ceramic capacitor and therefore it has no polarity.
correct?
[quoted image]

It's a .1 uf 500 volts ceramic disc capacitor - ceramic capacitors has no polarity

Google is your friend

#8544 3 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

It's a .1 uf 500 volts ceramic disc capacitor - ceramic capacitors has no polarity
Google is your friend

perfect, yes that was the first thing I did, I had no way whatsoever of confirming what it was though... better safe than sorry, thanks.

#8545 2 days ago

manny65 I decided to install new caps at the cab switches since I am rebuilding the flippers... I was placing an order with Mouser as I needed some connectors and this is the only one they had, I believe this matches the specs of what is in there... I was not sure but I ordered it anyways:

Will this work? I did some research before pulling the trigger and this is the closest I got, my goal was to get a 0.1uf 500v ceramic disc capacitor and got this:
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/594-S104Z93Z5VL83L0R/

I compared it to the one sold at Marcos and GPE, and it seems like it matches MOST of the specs posted on GPE which are:
Part Number CCD-0.1uF-500V-P9.5
Capacitor, Ceramic Disc, 0.1uF, 500VType: Z5V
Tolerance: +80%/-20%
Lead Spacing: 9.5mm
Lead Length: Full Length
Body Diameter: 15mm
Manufacturer: UniOhm

am I good or did I order the wrong thing?

#8546 2 days ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

manny65 I decided to install new caps at the cab switches since I am rebuilding the flippers... I was placing an order with Mouser as I needed some connectors and this is the only one they had, I believe this matches the specs of what is in there... I was not sure but I ordered it anyways:
Will this work? I did some research before pulling the trigger and this is the closest I got, my goal was to get a 0.1uf 500v ceramic disc capacitor and got this:
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/594-S104Z93Z5VL83L0R/
I compared it to the one sold at Marcos and GPE, and it seems like it matches MOST of the specs posted on GPE which are:
Part Number CCD-0.1uF-500V-P9.5
Capacitor, Ceramic Disc, 0.1uF, 500VType: Z5V
Tolerance: +80%/-20%
Lead Spacing: 9.5mm
Lead Length: Full Length
Body Diameter: 15mm
Manufacturer: UniOhm
am I good or did I order the wrong thing?

Looks good but I'm no expert ...

#8547 1 day ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

thanks Manny for validating that for me and pointing me in the right direction.
Would it be acceptable to remove the wire since it is not needed?

Williams used generic "universal" sections of harnesses across many games, this saves production/engineering costs. Not every wire is used in every game.
Its never a good idea to alter the factory wiring, and no benefit ever comes from doing it.

Quoted from Ottawaflip:

Part Number CCD-0.1uF-500V-P9.5
Capacitor, Ceramic Disc, 0.1uF, 500VType: Z5V
Tolerance: +80%/-20%
Lead Spacing: 9.5mm
Lead Length: Full Length
Body Diameter: 15mm
Manufacturer: UniOhm
am I good or did I order the wrong thing?

Those should work fine, all that cap does is absorb energy to prevent sparking/arcing in your leaf switches, no rocket science involved.

#8548 1 day ago

Some pics of my modded #T2. Been taking parts off and cleaning, waxing, replacing rubbers and modding.

20210301_175523.jpg
20210301_175544.jpg
20210301_185607.jpg
20210301_185711.jpg
20210301_182009.jpg

#8549 1 day ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Williams used generic "universal" sections of harnesses across many games, this saves production/engineering costs. Not every wire is used in every game.
Its never a good idea to alter the factory wiring, and no benefit ever comes from doing it.

Those should work fine, all that cap does is absorb energy to prevent sparking/arcing in your leaf switches, no rocket science involved.

I figured that was the case for the wiring, same foundation for that generation of game then they use what they need when they need it.
I am not modifiying the wiring at all, will just leave factory looking.
This T2 will probably stay with me for a long time so I am going to baby it.

I am now contemplating installing new decals on the cab, chroming the gun/shooter and either re-do the clear coat on the PF (have a few insert failures, maybe 3-4) or just replace the PF altogether.

My T2 is the game that got me into pinball in 1992, and it is the game that is teaching me how to play better and fix them too! I really like fixing it. It makes me happy to bring it back to its full glory.

Wednesday this week also Avengers is arriving! Great times ahead!

#8550 15 hours ago
Quoted from mikespins:

Some pics of my modded #T2.

1.gif
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