(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!


By spfxted

8 years ago



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  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by eyeamred2u
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There are 8342 posts in this topic. You are on page 167 of 167.
#8301 18 days ago
Quoted from DrBernd:

Hi, here‘s a short description:
- turning on the game or knocking down the skull drop target turns on the searchlights
- starting a game or loading the gun starts search modus/movement
- succeeding the skill shot starts destruction modus/shaking
The ship is milled from a solid aluminium block and finally chrome-plated, so absolutely worth the money.
Just my 5 cents...

Thanks for the video. It definitely helps to understand what the mod does. It is very impressive. If after you hit the target with the cannon, the ship went completely dark and nose dived forward, I'd buy it in a minute.

#8302 18 days ago

Wow! Definitely amazing, I went to the website and couldn't navigate my way to an English selection? Is there a way for people in the states to order it?

Quoted from DrBernd:

Hi, here‘s a short description:
- turning on the game or knocking down the skull drop target turns on the searchlights
- starting a game or loading the gun starts search modus/movement
- succeeding the skill shot starts destruction modus/shaking
The ship is milled from a solid aluminium block and finally chrome-plated, so absolutely worth the money.
Just my 5 cents...

#8303 18 days ago

Why you don't send an email to avo on his page?

#8304 18 days ago

Went to the AVO site. Seems like a PIA to order. Not sure how to determine international shipping cost. Must wire payment to their bank... not sure exactly how I would do that and if another fee will be charged to do that. I doubt I would have purchase protection paying this way as well.

If anyone in the USA buys one, please post what your total costs were and how you went about actually paying.

#8305 18 days ago
Quoted from gac:

Went to the AVO site. Seems like a PIA to order. Not sure how to determine international shipping cost. Must wire payment to their bank... not sure exactly how I would do that and if another fee will be charged to do that. I doubt I would have purchase protection paying this way as well.
If anyone in the USA buys one, please post what your total costs were and how you went about actually paying.

I had the same experience when trying to order one. The deal killer for me was wiring payment to their bank account. There would be zero protection if they decide not to ship the item or it gets "lost" in shipment. There's also a statement on their website that says U.S. orders could have additional charges. So, I can place the order, wire them money and they can then respond with, "we need an additional $200 for U.S."

And if you then try to cancel, they can say "ok, but the money you've already transferred is not refundable, Sorry."

No thanks.

#8306 18 days ago
Quoted from rx3:

I had the same experience when trying to order one. The deal killer for me was wiring payment to their bank account. There would be zero protection if they decide not to ship the item or it gets "lost" in shipment. There's also a statement on their website that says U.S. orders could have additional charges. So, I can place the order, wire them money and they can then respond with, "we need an additional $200 for U.S."
And if you then try to cancel, they can say "ok, but the money you've already transferred is not refundable, Sorry."
No thanks.

I'm out...

#8307 17 days ago

Hi there,
Sorry, please excuse my late answer here. The first production run of the UT2HS is nearly sold and the sale gives me a bit hectic at the moment.
Unfortunately, my website is currently only available in German.
But I am happy to help anyone who wants to buy a UT2HS.
The purchase price for customers outside the European Union is 290 euros net, as they do not have to pay German VAT.
Shipping to USA / Canada as a small parcel is 32 euros. It comes with DHL including tracking and insurance of the shipment. However, it takes around 30 days for the transport. Those who want it faster pay 64 euros. Pickup through your parcel service or shipping on your Fedex account is possible as well.
Payment via PayPal is possible, please allow me to add on 15€ if you dont pay through family and friends. I don´t want to pay the paypal fees.
Here some more detailed information:
Description:
This kit is a modding for the Terminator 2 pinball machine. The „Ultimate Hunter Ship“ replaces the original part and includes additional features.

Functions:
Depending on the game situation, there are different modes that the Hunter Ship goes through.

Homeposition:
On home Position: red and blue Wing LED (at the back) and two blue turbines LED´s are activated and light up

Skillshot:
The movement mode is started as soon as a ball is in the shooter lane for a certain time. The Hunter Ship rotates, the searchlights are on and the LED running light is activated. If the "Skillshottarget" is hit now, the Hunter Ship goes into destruction mode, i.e. the LEDs flash and the Hunter Ship shakes back and forth. If the target is not hit, the ship will automatically return to the home position.

Multiball:
If the head is hit the first time and the drop target is triggered, the searchlights are activated. If the head is hit the second time and thus the bullet is conveyed to the pistol, the movement mode is started. If the illuminated target is hit after firing the pistol, the destruction mode is activated. If the illuminated target is not hit, the Hunter Ship returns to the home position.

You will find the instruction manual here.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ud6gztdpvy29ify/AAC0f0nYxBhT_dmPZJ75ASkqa?dl=0

The ship is CNC machined from a high quality aluminum block and then chrome plated.

Email to:
info@avo-pinball.de

I´m happy to answer your questions.
Andreas

#8308 17 days ago
Quoted from gac:

Went to the AVO site. Seems like a PIA to order. Not sure how to determine international shipping cost. Must wire payment to their bank... not sure exactly how I would do that and if another fee will be charged to do that. I doubt I would have purchase protection paying this way as well.
If anyone in the USA buys one, please post what your total costs were and how you went about actually paying.

I've placed my order - I just used google to translate the german phrases to english. Andreas told me to place the order as "cash on pickup", it'll still show as 345 Euro but he'll go in and modify the order to remove the 19% Value Added Tax (VAT) and add the 32 Euro for shipping. So you'll pay 322 Euro if paying by PayPal family and friends transfer (Paypal will charge ~13 Euro in fees) or 337 Euro if buying with PayPal Buyer Protection.

#8309 17 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I've placed my order - I just used google to translate the german phrases to english. Andreas told me to place the order as "cash on pickup", it'll still show as 345 Euro but he'll go in and modify the order to remove the 19% Value Added Tax (VAT) and add the 32 Euro for shipping. So you'll pay 322 Euro if paying by PayPal family and friends transfer (Paypal will charge ~13 Euro in fees) or 337 Euro if buying with PayPal Buyer Protection.

What exactly are you buying? Is there a YouTube video of this in action?

What is the price with shipping to the US?

#8310 17 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

What exactly are you buying?

Ultimate T2 Hunter-killer Ship (UT2HS) which is sold by avo

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/167#post-6049017

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/166#post-6044173

Quoted from scampcamp:

Is there a YouTube video of this in action?

Quoted from scampcamp:

What is the price with shipping to the US?

322 Euro if paying by PayPal family and friends (Paypal will charge ~13 Euro in fees) or 337 Euro if buying with PayPal Buyer Protection (no Paypal fee)

#8311 16 days ago

Stop - the UT2HS is not designed by me!!!
I just redesigned the installation instructions and did the translation from German to English language.

#8312 16 days ago
Quoted from Averell:

Stop - the UT2HS is not designed by me!!!
I just redesigned the installation instructions and did the translation from German to English language.

Oops sorry averell I misunderstood your post - my apologises

I'll update my post

#8313 16 days ago

No problem, just order this damend ship, man.

#8314 16 days ago
Quoted from Averell:

No problem, just order this damend ship, man.

Haha don't worry that's already been done

#8315 16 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Haha don't worry that's already been done

and it´s shipping on next monday....

#8316 14 days ago

Decided to paint my dull worn guns. I cant afford powder coating, so this is a good bandaid.

3 light coats of satin black , 3 light coats of clear.
I left the trigger unpainted for contrast and because I figured it'd wear off and be half painted in no time.

pewpew1 (resized).jpgpewpew2 (resized).jpg
#8317 13 days ago

Anyone please help me locating where all GI lamps should be on the playfield!

I get several GI strings completely out when testing those in the menu, but don't know what they should light up?

#8318 13 days ago
Quoted from ravve:

Anyone please help me locating where all GI lamps should be on the playfield!
I get several GI strings completely out when testing those in the menu, but don't know what they should light up?

There are 5 GI strings - 2 for the backbox (top and bottom insert) and 3 for the PF (Right, CPU and Left). You should be able to easily trace the GI strings under the PF to find exactly which sockets they light. WPC machines often had GI issues due to the power it drew through the connector on the power board - that's the first place I'd suggest checking. Here's some pics however the left PF string is out on mine but pretty obvious it lights the plastics down the left side of the PF

T2 Upper Inserts (resized).jpgT2 Lower Inserts (resized).jpgT2 Right PF (resized).jpgT2 CPU (resized).jpgT2 Left PF (resized).jpg

#8319 13 days ago

Wow, thanks, that was exactly what I was looking for! Cheers

#8320 10 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Have you read Pinwiki on how to jumper the pins on the MPU to determine if you have MPU issue or wiring problems?

Quoted from Manny65:

How many green/violet wires are on switch #75 - there should be 2 green/violet and the yellow daisy-chaining wiring all soldered on the one terminal.
Equally the drop target and VUK ball popper switches will have 2 green/violet, while the shooter lane only has the single green/violet.
[quoted image]

Following back up to let you guys know that it was a broken wire (shocker I know) but it was all the way down at the 1 Bank Drop Target Assembly which I fixed a few weeks ago and must have broke it off at some point. So the drop target and switches are fixed and flippers rebuilt. Cleaning, Rubbers, and LED's to go......

#8321 9 days ago

Quick question for anyone thats done a teardown or had to work on the left ramp recently.

I had a piece of plastic snap off near the left ramp entrance and am confused how the Skynet sign, switch holder and lane guide fit together? Is it just the one screw and a nut underneath to hold all 3 together? There isn't a threaded post or anything obvious that they all fit into.

#8322 9 days ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Quick question for anyone thats done a teardown or had to work on the left ramp recently.
I had a piece of plastic snap off near the left ramp entrance and am confused how the Skynet sign, switch holder and lane guide fit together? Is it just the one screw and a nut underneath to hold all 3 together? There isn't a threaded post or anything obvious that they all fit into.

Read this for info:

http://creamyeagle.blogspot.com/2014/05/terminator-2-pinball-tear-down.html?m=1

#8324 9 days ago

Made some major progress tonight!

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#8325 9 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Made some major progress tonight![quoted image]

The anticipation gets so intense when you get that close to finishing, doesn't it? I was where you are just a few weeks ago.

BTW you're going to want one of these on the back end of your cannon:
https://www.pinballlife.com/tan-rubber-grommet.html

#8326 6 days ago

My Ultimate Huntership arrived yesterday. It was well packed and looks awesome! Now I just need to find time to install it....

#8327 6 days ago
Quoted from shepP:

My Ultimate Huntership arrived yesterday. It was well packed and looks awesome! Now I just need to find time to install it....

I received mine yesterday as well and agree that it was well packed for overseas shipping and looks fantastic. Looking forward to getting this mod installed

T2 HK Mod (resized).jpg
#8328 6 days ago

Alright new issue (I feel like I should be paying shrink fees here). I "assumed" that all the lights that were out were because of bad bulbs.

Now that I started to upgrade them to LED's I noticed the CPU light were all out, started to look at change bulbs etc. and disconnected and I get this (image below) pin was stuck and came off the board, and pin is broken as you can see it missing.

A quick look online and you cannot buy the lamp board (A-14518) anywhere. I have not gained the soldering on a board yet, though I guess I could try on this. Thankfully haven't had to deal with this yet so not sure where to turn next.

Appreciate any leads/ideas!

IMG_7972 (resized).jpg
#8329 5 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Alright new issue (I feel like I should be paying shrink fees here). I "assumed" that all the lights that were out were because of bad bulbs.
Now that I started to upgrade them to LED's I noticed the CPU light were all out, started to look at change bulbs etc. and disconnected and I get this (image below) pin was stuck and came off the board, and pin is broken as you can see it missing.
A quick look online and you cannot buy the lamp board (A-14518) anywhere. I have not gained the soldering on a board yet, though I guess I could try on this. Thankfully haven't had to deal with this yet so not sure where to turn next.
Appreciate any leads/ideas![quoted image]

More than likely you had a cold solder joint (the solder was cracked around the pin) and hence why all the lamps were out on that board. It's a 4 pin header on that board - parts list show it as 5791-10871-04 "4h spl sq pin .156"

You might be able to solder the pin back in or simply replace the whole header however I can't find the exact same part and not sure the which would be the best replacement (there are various .156 headers). I think this would be suitable https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CM15604

#8330 5 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Alright new issue (I feel like I should be paying shrink fees here). I "assumed" that all the lights that were out were because of bad bulbs.
Now that I started to upgrade them to LED's I noticed the CPU light were all out, started to look at change bulbs etc. and disconnected and I get this (image below) pin was stuck and came off the board, and pin is broken as you can see it missing.
A quick look online and you cannot buy the lamp board (A-14518) anywhere. I have not gained the soldering on a board yet, though I guess I could try on this. Thankfully haven't had to deal with this yet so not sure where to turn next.
Appreciate any leads/ideas![quoted image]

It is an easy fix, don't over think it. Desolder that hole location and clean that pin up and push it back in.

#8331 5 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

It is an easy fix, don't over think it. Desolder that hole location and clean that pin up and push it back in.

Yep, I am overthinking it but I am still missing another pin so I need to order something anyway. Then I can give it a go.

Quoted from Manny65:

More than likely you had a cold solder joint (the solder was cracked around the pin) and hence why all the lamps were out on that board. It's a 4 pin header on that board - parts list show it as 5791-10871-04 "4h spl sq pin .156"
You might be able to solder the pin back in or simply replace the whole header however I can't find the exact same part and not sure the which would be the best replacement (there are various .156 headers). I think this would be suitable https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CM15604

Thanks as always for helping and pointing out solutions!

#8332 5 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

More than likely you had a cold solder joint (the solder was cracked around the pin) and hence why all the lamps were out on that board. It's a 4 pin header on that board - parts list show it as 5791-10871-04 "4h spl sq pin .156"
You might be able to solder the pin back in or simply replace the whole header however I can't find the exact same part and not sure the which would be the best replacement (there are various .156 headers). I think this would be suitable https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CM15604

Go visit Ed at his store. He has some of the best prices and you can cut to length. He has friction lock if you need those in this section too.

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#8333 5 days ago

Well I feel like the thread is all about my machine lately and tonight I was finishing up the underneath LED’s before I fix the CPU (machine off) going well.

Turn it back on looking for LED’s not working and the start button something is up, well I don’t turn the machine off and you can see below the result.

I looked at this thread and pin wiki and figured it out myself unfortunately. Looks like find someone to do board work or pop my cherry. Ohh I shot this “shot” to drown my sorrows!

0868F5D3-5BA8-4537-B464-71A4A2E1374C (resized).jpeg6E548C92-EF71-4160-BA43-AF9766BF5AF2 (resized).jpeg7DAD019A-21F1-4A91-BA58-2071B9E6B289 (resized).jpeg
#8334 4 days ago

Anybody that has playfield graphics to send/sell to me? I have lots of damages and was going to try out to print own decals. I need images of the playfield, preferebly from the middle and up (but all images are interesting).

I know I can snap my own images or use a handheld scanner, but want to try here first.

Thanks!

#8335 4 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Well I feel like the thread is all about my machine lately and tonight I was finishing up the underneath LED’s before I fix the CPU (machine off) going well.
Turn it back on looking for LED’s not working and the start button something is up, well I don’t turn the machine off and you can see below the result.
I looked at this thread and pin wiki and figured it out myself unfortunately. Looks like find someone to do board work or pop my cherry. Ohh I shot this “shot” to drown my sorrows![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Oh no, been there and replaced those chips many times on boards.

#8336 4 days ago

Looking for a set of slingshot plastics. Anyone know where I might find a set? Marco is out of stock.

Thanks,
Pete

#8337 4 days ago
Quoted from peteyhugs:

Looking for a set of slingshot plastics. Anyone know where I might find a set? Marco is out of stock.
Thanks,
Pete

Ministry of Pinball is where I ordered from a few months ago. $31

#8338 11 hours ago

New issue when putting my T2 back together. Can't get the ball to eject cleanly to the plunger. Prior user bent the Ball runway guide, replaced that, also replaced the ball eject parts with new ones. Now I have the unit striking the ball well behind it, as you can see in my pics. Should I just drill new holes and reposition as it seems like the holes may have been off from the factory and solutions were done on the fly to make the game work.

Could someone take a pic of where the cam strikes the ball so I can compare. Thanks.

Ken

20210118_124412 (resized).jpg20210118_124438 (resized).jpg20210118_124625 (resized).jpg

#8339 7 hours ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

New issue when putting my T2 back together. Can't get the ball to eject cleanly to the plunger. Prior user bent the Ball runway guide, replaced that, also replaced the ball eject parts with new ones. Now I have the unit striking the ball well behind it, as you can see in my pics. Should I just drill new holes and reposition as it seems like the holes may have been off from the factory and solutions were done on the fly to make the game work.
Could someone take a pic of where the cam strikes the ball so I can compare. Thanks.
Ken
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Ken

The first 3 pics are with the striker arm at rest, while the 4th is where the arm makes contact with the ball. Note because the PF is tilted I'm holding the ball in place as it would sit normally. In comparing against yours I'd say they were pretty similar - does the ball not make it out of the trough or is it bouncing off the ball guide in the trough (see 1st pic above the striker and on the right)?? Maybe take a slow-mo video to help see what's happening?? Anyway let me know if you need any more pics

T2 ball release 1 (resized).jpgT2 ball release 2 (resized).jpgT2 ball release 3 (resized).jpgT2 ball release 4 (resized).jpg
#8340 6 hours ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Hey Ken
The first 3 pics are with the striker arm at rest, while the 4th is where the arm makes contact with the ball. Note because the PF is tilted I'm holding the ball in place as it would sit normally. In comparing against yours I'd say they were pretty similar - does the ball not make it out of the trough or is it bouncing off the ball guide in the trough (see 1st pic above the striker and on the right)?? Maybe take a slow-mo video to help see what's happening?? Anyway let me know if you need any more pics
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Never makes it out of the trough. Ball guide has been adjusted out of the way, as that was the first thing I thought to do. I do have a video, I will slow it down and then post it. Thank you for the pics.

#8341 5 hours ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Never makes it out of the trough. Ball guide has been adjusted out of the way, as that was the first thing I thought to do. I do have a video, I will slow it down and then post it. Thank you for the pics.

Do you have a cliffy installed? Just trying to think of other potential issues

#8342 5 hours ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Do you have a cliffy installed? Just trying to think of other potential issues

Yes, it is not in the way, confirmed that.

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