I'd say USD$50-60

Free, merry Xmas I will take take. Lol

Does anyone currently have the chrome head out of their machine? Could you please measure the length of the red and yellow wires from the bulb holders in the head to the molex connector? Need to replace this as a previous owner snipped it for some reason. Any photos of how/where the wire is routed through the playfield would help as well. Thanks!

Edit: one other question - the metal "horseshoe" at the rear of the chrome head (circled in green), should this be tucked into the head, or should the head be tucked into it? I'm looking through photos and seeing it both ways. Mine had one side in and one side out.

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My wires are 8.5 inches long from the light bulb to the molex connector. I have a different skull attached, but the old skull has scratch marks on the inside of the head so I'm assuming that protector went inside the skull.

Finally some noteworthy progress over the weekend. Finished cutting out and installed the playfield protector. I kept all tolerances pretty tight, about 1/16" away from posts and guides, and tucked it under rubbers and plastics so that as few edges are seen as possible. The result is that it's barely noticeable and looks like a clearcoat. Now I can finally get on with the repopulation!

Side note: boy oh boy, that rubber chart in the manual is both incorrect and incomplete.

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Powder Coated gun is back, time to install!

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I installed my right habitrail today and notice that it's sitting low so that the ball actually hits the Robert Patrick plastic over the orange standups. I added a few shim washers under the bracket where it bolts to the right slingshot post, but it's still too low. I think maybe the problem is that it's sitting too low on its right side, as it's resting slightly on that front plastic on the right woodrail too, and there's no support for it at all on that side. Has this been an issue on anyone else's machine? How did you fix it?

Yes very common for the Robert Patrick plastic to have wear marks around the last letter of "Kickback" from the wireform laying on the plastic and causing it to rub on the post underneath it.

Yeah, this plastic has that, and also parallel rub marks across the top from the two strands of the wireform that lay right on top of it. The bigger problem though is that since the wireform sits right on the plastic, the ball hits the edge of it and then rides along the topside of the plastic. Only a matter of time until it breaks.

Oh I hadn't noticed that - will have to double check mine ...

I'm looking for a Gun Handle to bring a project T2 back to life. Let me know if anyone has one for sale.
thanks

Joined the club back in August, and finally got around to a complete PF Teardown. Along with leveling the raised inserts, new plastics, Titans, Comets, I installed the loot skull with the PBL eyes. Super impressed with how awesome crystal clear pop bumper caps and comet red pop bumper rings look!! Came out great! One thing I missed were the 2 broken rubber posts behind the 3 advance stand up targets. Anyone know the size or part number of these from Marco?

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The 2 on the left should be the same post, while the one of the right has a screw hole in the top - hopefully you'll be able to determine the post part number from the post list (this is from the manual)
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Thanks Brother! Its looking like the 2 on the left are the 4056 and the one on the right is the 4057. That’s what I’ll order. Thanks again!!!

...the one on the right looks more like the 4036 acc. to the manual

Checked it on the game, you are 100% correct. 4036 it is. Thanks!

Whichever one you order for the rightmost post, 4057 or 4036, make sure the top is tapped for a #6 screw. That's what holds down the habitrail bracket.

Need a pic of the back of the mpu board!

Please, if anyone has this specifically for T2, post it.

I want to see how w3 and R93 are connected.

Thanks mates!

Here is my take on the terminator 2 skull replacement. I hand sculpting a neck and added some shiny wires for some detail and mounting, painted in skull details as it came sloppy, added led with a connecter for easy removal. Overall I’m happy with it although if I were making it again I definitely have some changes that I would make that I think would make it even cooler.

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Wow that looks very cool - well done!!

Dude that is badass. I would buy that if you made them and I still owned.

Nobody has made any new rules yet?

Thought I was all done and gonna post pix of the finished game, and now the "dialing in" problems surface after the first few games. So it looks like the holes for the right inlane/outlane wire guide were drilled all the way thru my playfield, and every time the ball exits the right habitrail it knocks the wireform down into the pf a little bit. I was wondering why that wire was down at pf level when I got the game, and now I know. Any of you T2 owners had this problem? I'm thinking the best fix is a screw and washer under the playfield next to each hole.

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I guess the best fix would be to repair the damaged pf: remove the wireform, fill the holes with e.g. „2 compound liquid wood“ and finally drill new holes only half the way through the playfield...

I not seen this ever before and would suggest repairing the PF as per DrBernd post above. Also the ball shouldn't be hitting the top of the wire guide when exiting the wireform, maybe need to adjust the wireform to avoid re-damaging your repaired holes.

So long awaited and now available again:

The Ultimate Terminator 2 Hunter Ship

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Visit this website and order the best mod ever made for Williams Terminator 2 Pinball Machine!

https://www.avo-pinball.de/shop/mods/ultimatives-terminator-2-hunter-ship/

regards
Averell

Finally got Ah-nold all buttoned up and he's playing nice and tight, like a new game. I was worried what problems might turn up since I'd only played one ball at the estate sale before I bought it (cannon would barely turn), and then had to send the MPU to Chris Hibler for damage control and make some wiring fixes here and there, but it all turned out great. LED/OCD hopefully arriving later this week. Still some minor tweaks to make, the main one being that the cannon, while it now turns and shoots just fine, doesn't turn counter-clockwise far enough to hit that bottom target, only the one next to it. I'm thinking it's the "gun mark" switch #32 that just need to be moved a little further down the bracket slot?

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Here is my positioning or you can auto calibrate it.

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Can the link be changed to English? 335 Euro? $433 USD? Does that include shipping?

It's not my homepage, AVO offers the information in German only.
Shipping is extra and it's helpful to order a bunch of it to spare some money.
So, maybe some more Pinheads are interested in the UT2HS?
In combination with PinSound and digital remastered mix this mod is mindblowing.

Just watch this... it's an older version, but ... whoouuuu.

Now that's bloody awesome!!!

It looks great but $433 plus shipping?

It looks really cool! The price is a little daunting though. How does it interact with game play other than the awesome rotating before the ball is shot?

This mod is of very high quality.
All components are designed for a long life.
For instance, the servo has a metal gearbox and the ship itself is made of metal and perfectly milled and polished in a very complex process.
The ship also includes very complex control boards that provides various functions.
The kit is tested and there is also an English installation instruction included.
The price is much fair if you know how the entire process and manufacturing was.
It took nearly three years to get this thing done!

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What are the "various functions"? Thanks

That looks super cool.

I’d buy one!

I wonder how much Stern would charge for this mod?

This is what you would get.

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Dude you are NUTS! I love it! That has to be over $300.

It's well over $300.

Looks fantastic but would like to know what all the functions are and how it connects for power, etc. Really has nothing on website listing.

Installed new topper from Tilt Topper. Lovin' it.

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You should write an email to AVO-Pinball Germany, he can answer all your questions.

Finally finished up my Shadow and am back on T2. Coming across a new error (not sure if it is new or never noticed before).

Switch 71,72,73,74,75 are all out.
Checked the board and made sure it was fully plugged in (it is)
No broken wires under the playfield- I see that all the switches are "daisy chained" together into 75 which then has the green-violet wire coming out.
No errors on the machines
Every other switch is working

Any advice on to where to go next?

Do switches #76 Ball Popper, #77 Drop Target and #78 Shooter lane work? If not then you have a whole column out otherwise it's a diode/wiring issue

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76-78 all work. I’ll keep checking wires, game is so dirty from Italy it looks like!

Thanks!

Have you read Pinwiki on how to jumper the pins on the MPU to determine if you have MPU issue or wiring problems?

How many green/violet wires are on switch #75 - there should be 2 green/violet and the yellow daisy-chaining wiring all soldered on the one terminal.

Equally the drop target and VUK ball popper switches will have 2 green/violet, while the shooter lane only has the single green/violet.

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Hi, here‘s a short description:
- turning on the game or knocking down the skull drop target turns on the searchlights
- starting a game or loading the gun starts search modus/movement
- succeeding the skill shot starts destruction modus/shaking
The ship is milled from a solid aluminium block and finally chrome-plated, so absolutely worth the money.
Just my 5 cents...