(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!


By spfxted

8 years ago



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  • 8,348 posts
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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by eyeamred2u
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There are 8348 posts in this topic. You are on page 165 of 167.
#8201 54 days ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

WTB: T2 project...I have repro playfield in its way! Any leads appreciated.

Place the ad in the Market place as well. Good luck in your search.

#8202 54 days ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

WTB: T2 project...I have repro playfield in its way! Any leads appreciated.

location?

#8203 54 days ago

Kansas

#8204 54 days ago

I think KSUWildcatFan is selling his? Or someone else listed one on a bunch of Facebook groups and I thought it was in Kansas.

#8205 53 days ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

I think KSUWildcatFan is selling his? Or someone else listed one on a bunch of Facebook groups and I thought it was in Kansas.

Unfortunately I don’t do Facebook...maybe I need to get that at some point.

#8206 53 days ago

Hey All! My new-to-me T2 has issues. Nothing registering in the top half of the playfield during switch test. Checked fuses and connectors, so just wondering what my next move should be? The left ramp entry looks like the first switch in the column, so maybe start there?

#8207 52 days ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

Hey All! My new-to-me T2 has issues. Nothing registering in the top half of the playfield during switch test. Checked fuses and connectors, so just wondering what my next move should be? The left ramp entry looks like the first switch in the column, so maybe start there?

I'd suggest testing every switch and marking those that don't work on the below switch matrix diagram to see if there is a specific pattern to which switches aren't working. From this you'll be able to focus in on where the issue is

T2 switch matrix (resized).JPG

#8208 52 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I'd suggest testing every switch and marking those that don't work on the below switch matrix diagram to see if there is a specific pattern to which switches aren't working. From this you'll be able to focus in on where the issue is
[quoted image]

Thank you for the chart. Not a lot of pattern to go on...it’s everything in columns 3,4,5 and 6. None of these switches register. All solenoids fire during the solenoid test though.

#8209 52 days ago

I think I might have found the root of the problem. One broken wire and one wire pulled out of the pin on J207. Also, why is this connector different than the others?

ED905C68-DD33-4DF4-A32C-69B0B333D4B6 (resized).jpeg
#8210 52 days ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

Thank you for the chart. Not a lot of pattern to go on...it’s everything in columns 3,4,5 and 6. None of these switches register. All solenoids fire during the solenoid test though.

Quoted from MasterBlaster:

I think I might have found the root of the problem. One broken wire and one wire pulled out of the pin on J207. Also, why is this connector different than the others?
[quoted image]

Firstly the different connector shows that it has been replaced as some time. The first diagram below is the wire colours and associated connector pins.

Also note that pin 1-3 on J212 are the same as J207 pins 1-3 (2nd diagram). Looking at the first diagram J212-3 isn't connected, however it is in your picture and J207-3 is as well, so this seems odd. So I believe this is where your issue is and probably best to repin that connector

T2 J207 (resized).JPGWPC CPU board connectors (resized).jpg

#8211 52 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Firstly the different connector shows that it has been replaced as some time. The first diagram below is the wire colours and associated connector pins.
Also note that pin 1-3 on J212 are the same as J207 pins 1-3 (2nd diagram). Looking at the first diagram J212-3 isn't connected, however it is in your picture and J207-3 is as well, so this seems odd. So I believe this is where your issue is and probably best to repin that connector
[quoted image][quoted image]

We are moving in a positive direction! I soldered the one wire that was broken back together. For the wire that was pulled out of the connector, I stripped a bit of insulation away and pushed the wire far enough in that it makes contact. So now the only columns not working are 3 and 5. I also suspect the connector/pins, so I will await the parts and report back once I get a new connector and re-pin.

#8212 52 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Firstly the different connector shows that it has been replaced as some time. The first diagram below is the wire colours and associated connector pins.
Also note that pin 1-3 on J212 are the same as J207 pins 1-3 (2nd diagram). Looking at the first diagram J212-3 isn't connected, however it is in your picture and J207-3 is as well, so this seems odd. So I believe this is where your issue is and probably best to repin that connector
[quoted image][quoted image]

All switches are working now! The temporary fix that I used on one of the pins seems to be holding for now, so I did the same thing for two other pins in that same connector (the red one in the picture). Maybe the wire is just too brittle, but it seems like maybe whoever did the crimping on those pins went a little too tight because the wires are breaking just at the end of the crimp connection. So all switches are registering now, and the game is playable (as long as the wires don’t jiggle out of the connector). Looking forward to re-pinning to make this a more reliable connection! Thanks all!!

#8213 51 days ago

Hello Group, finishing up a T2 shop out for a friend and have an issue with the plunger coil not working. What is the best way to test the coil? I used my meter and I get a reading of 11.7 ohms. Coil does not fire in Solenoid Test. The Gun trigger switch works, so it is not related to that. Thanks for any input.

Ken

#8214 51 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Hello Group, finishing up a T2 shop out for a friend and have an issue with the plunger coil not working. What is the best way to test the coil? I used my meter and I get a reading of 11.7 ohms. Coil does not fire in Solenoid Test. The Gun trigger switch works, so it is not related to that. Thanks for any input.
Ken

What coil do you have on the plunger? Looking at the manual it's a AE-23-800 and https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html shows it should have a resistance of 4.2 ohms

#8215 51 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

What coil do you have on the plunger? Looking at the manual it's a AE-23-800 and https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html shows it should have a resistance of 4.2 ohms

It is an AE-23-800 coil. Just re-measured and I do have 4.2 ohms. I also checked voltage(DC) and I have 75V on each lug.

My next step is to buzz out the TIP 102 Transistor Q58, then I will ground it momentarily to fire the coil. May have a bad TIP 102, I will also check the Diode

#8216 51 days ago

Just joined the T2 club! Gun and canon wont fire via the trigger. The thing is set to autofire and launches the ball from both on autofire. What should I look at as the cause?

#8217 51 days ago
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:

Just joined the T2 club! Gun and canon wont fire via the trigger. The thing is set to autofire and launches the ball from both on autofire. What should I look at as the cause?

Go into switch test mode and check that pulling the trigger is activating the switch. It could be your switch needs adjusting or has failed

#8218 51 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

It is an AE-23-800 coil. Just re-measured and I do have 4.2 ohms. I also checked voltage(DC) and I have 75V on each lug.
My next step is to buzz out the TIP 102 Transistor Q58, then I will ground it momentarily to fire the coil. May have a bad TIP 102, I will also check the Diode

Yep that's what I suspect is the case - let's us know what you find

#8219 51 days ago

New issue with Outhole. Can't get ball to eject into lane. Here are 2 videos of what is happening:

#8220 51 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yep that's what I suspect is the case - let's us know what you find

Update: coil is firing now. Not sure what happened, but just started working. Strangeness

#8221 50 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

New issue with Outhole. Can't get ball to eject into lane. Here are 2 videos of what is happening:

This is the trough mech (the outhole is under the apron and loads the balls into the trough). Remove the balls and lift the playfield, try manually moving the trough mech - the arm should swing up to strike the ball, kicking it into the shooter lane. Sometimes the mech needs to be adjusted in the screw holes for the arm to strike the center of the ball, however yours doesn't seem to have the full travel. You might need to replace the coil sleeve or something may have gone wrong with the mech. If it has the full travel and nothing seems to be causing resistance, go into solenoid test and test the coil (with the playfield up), if it seems to be working then it might just need to be adjust to strike the ball better

#8222 50 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

This is the trough mech (the outhole is under the apron and loads the balls into the trough). Remove the balls and lift the playfield, try manually moving the trough mech - the arm should swing up to strike the ball, kicking it into the shooter lane. Sometimes the mech needs to be adjusted in the screw holes for the arm to strike the center of the ball, however yours doesn't seem to have the full travel. You might need to replace the coil sleeve or something may have gone wrong with the mech. If it has the full travel and nothing seems to be causing resistance, go into solenoid test and test the coil (with the playfield up), if it seems to be working then it might just need to be adjust to strike the ball better

I will try adjusting it.

#8223 50 days ago

Almost ready to play games...

#8224 50 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Almost ready to play games...

Like the colours, not too over the top - well done!!

How did you go with the trough kickout, did it just need adjusting?

#8225 50 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Like the colours, not too over the top - well done!!
How did you go with the trough kickout, did it just need adjusting?

Thanks, plan to work on it this week. I tried not to go over the top with LED colors and balance it out with some orange plastics. I had more colors, but it was just a bit much. This seemed to be the best balance for me.

#8226 50 days ago

Is it possible to get the apron decal files somewhere so I can print and cut them myself? I have access to printers and I have a vinyl cutter so if I can get the files or scans I can create them.

If not, where can I buy them?

#8227 50 days ago
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:

Is it possible to get the apron decal files somewhere so I can print and cut them myself? I have access to printers and I have a vinyl cutter so if I can get the files or scans I can create them.
If not, where can I buy them?

PM me

#8228 49 days ago

Alright guys made some progress the last few days digging into issues.

Game resets settings when the game was turned off- board is on its way out for NVRAM (battery holder was loose).

ROM is L-6, is it worth upgrading to L-8?

My 1-Bank Drop Target Assembly is missing A-11388-2 https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-11388-2
Anything else I should order?

Thanks!

100E8E36-84AF-4369-ABF9-59AE13792E78 (resized).jpeg16EA2452-7323-4E6E-8ABF-3E48CDE42076 (resized).jpegC88AB79E-0055-4933-94A7-583B7071729A (resized).jpeg
#8229 49 days ago

Look in the manual!

#8230 49 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Alright guys made some progress the last few days digging into issues.
Game resets settings when the game was turned off- board is on its way out for NVRAM (battery holder was loose).
ROM is L-6, is it worth upgrading to L-8?
My 1-Bank Drop Target Assembly is missing A-11388-2 https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-11388-2
Anything else I should order?
Thanks![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Do the coils work? Does the drop target switch work? You can test the drop target even without the plunger (just need to manually lift the target). Probably worthwhile replacing the coil sleeve. Oh you're missing one of the 2 screws holding the switch.

Also the actuator guide is on the wrong side of the switch - see the diagram below the switch (red arrow) is between the drop target (black arrow) and the actuator guide (blue arrow). This stops the switch actuator being deflected sideways as the drop target falls

Plastic Guide1 (resized).jpg

#8231 49 days ago
Quoted from Averell:

Look in the manual!

LMAO

#8232 49 days ago

The manual can be your best friend. Anyone working on their game should have one and USE it. The pictures alone can answer almost every question about assembly. Good luck!

#8233 49 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Do the coils work? Does the drop target switch work? You can test the drop target even without the plunger (just need to manually lift the target). Probably worthwhile replacing the coil sleeve. Oh you're missing one of the 2 screws holding the switch.
Also the actuator guide is on the wrong side of the switch - see the diagram below the switch (red arrow) is between the drop target (black arrow) and the actuator guide (blue arrow). This stops the switch actuator being deflected sideways as the drop target falls
[quoted image]

Thanks for your useful help, I think it is obvious I did look at the manual but this part is pretty tough to get to and see each little detail.

Both the drop target switch and knock down work.

I will try and pull the whole assembly off tonight to see if I can move the actuator guide to the right spot.

Thanks again!

#8234 49 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Thanks for your useful help, I think it is obvious I did look at the manual but this part is pretty tough to get to and see each little detail.
Both the drop target switch and knock down work.
I will try and pull the whole assembly off tonight to see if I can move the actuator guide to the right spot.
Thanks again!

Yep the best thing is to remove the whole mech, then you'll be able to compare it accurately to the manual diagram. If you have any questions, just ask post them up

#8235 48 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Thanks for your useful help, I think it is obvious I did look at the manual but this part is pretty tough to get to and see each little detail.
Both the drop target switch and knock down work.
I will try and pull the whole assembly off tonight to see if I can move the actuator guide to the right spot.
Thanks again!

Can you take pictures of what the mech looks like, I have taken mine off a couple of times and i still think its not working right. The target doesn't come up enough.

#8236 48 days ago

It's the same assy like Indy, isn't it?

DSCN4125 (resized).JPG

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DSCN4129 (resized).JPG

DSCN4303 (resized).JPG

DSCN4304 (resized).JPG

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#8237 48 days ago
Quoted from smcclain65:

Can you take pictures of what the mech looks like, I have taken mine off a couple of times and i still think its not working right. The target doesn't come up enough.

Make sure you have your washer count(#9) in the pic from the manual, correct for the target, other wise the target will bind. When I rebuilt mine, I had to make adjustments to my washer count to get my target to work consistent.

#8238 48 days ago
Quoted from Averell:

It's the same assy like Indy, isn't it?

Yes it's the same mech - it was used in T2, STTNG, IJ and Shadow (possibly others as well)

Quoted from smcclain65:

Can you take pictures of what the mech looks like, I have taken mine off a couple of times and i still think its not working right. The target doesn't come up enough.

When you say it doesn't come up enough, can you manually push it up with your finger? Does it slide easily and latch on the stop (number 14 in the diagram)? They can become gummed up and not slide smoothly - disassemble and clean will usually fix this, and note what eyeamred2u said about the washers (number 9) on the 2 studs, as it is important to have it assembled correctly.

Single Drop Target1 (resized).JPG
#8239 44 days ago

Yucky original ramp flap has wear, some rust underneath, rough edges from the factory stamping, and a divot at the lower right where it looks like the ball would get hung up between the two post rubbers nearby and bashed during multiball.

before (resized).jpg

New ramp flap I cut, filed smooth, punched holes, and riveted yesterday. Much nicer. I expect the divot will reappear in time, but it ain't there now!

after (resized).jpg

#8240 44 days ago
Quoted from smcclain65:

Can you take pictures of what the mech looks like, I have taken mine off a couple of times and i still think its not working right. The target doesn't come up enough.

Here are a few pics.

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#8241 44 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Yucky original ramp flap has wear, some rust underneath, rough edges from the factory stamping, and a divot at the lower right where it looks like the ball would get hung up on the two post rubbers nearby.
[quoted image]
New ramp flap I cut, filed smooth, punched holes, and riveted yesterday. Much nicer. I expect the divot will reappear in time, but it ain't there now!
[quoted image]

What tool do you use to punch the holes? Any pic available?

#8242 44 days ago
Quoted from harig:

What tool do you use to punch the holes? Any pic available?

Neiko Power Punch 02612A. Works great, punching the holes was probably the easiest part.

ebay.com link

neiko (resized).jpg

#8243 44 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Yucky original ramp flap has wear, some rust underneath, rough edges from the factory stamping, and a divot at the lower right where it looks like the ball would get hung up between the two post rubbers nearby and bashed during multiball.
[quoted image]
New ramp flap I cut, filed smooth, punched holes, and riveted yesterday. Much nicer. I expect the divot will reappear in time, but it ain't there now!
[quoted image]

Nicely done - what did you use to cut the new flap?

#8244 43 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Nicely done - what did you use to cut the new flap?

Paper cutter for the two straight cuts, then Dremel cut-off wheel and sanding drum for the "Z" shapes on the sides. Finally, 300/400 sandpaper and needle files to straighten out the lines and corners, smooth the curves and de-burr the edges. The metal sheet for this flap seemed to be twice as thick as the ones I made last year for Jackbot, so more difficult to cut and pop the holes with the punch. The most important things are to measure & trace carefully, have patience, and don't rush the job.

#8245 42 days ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Here are a few pics. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for the pics. That last pic is what i needed the most with that leaf switch. It looks like mine is bent and i wasn't for sure if it should be. And what actually should be hitting it. I need to look at mine more closely and compare to yours.

#8246 42 days ago
Quoted from smcclain65:

Thanks for the pics. That last pic is what i needed the most with that leaf switch. It looks like mine is bent and i wasn't for sure if it should be. And what actually should be hitting it. I need to look at mine more closely and compare to yours.

The microswitch actuator arm needs to sit below the tab of the drop target (see the red arrow)

Drop target (resized).jpg

The switch is closed when the target is down, sometimes you need to adjust the switch position (see the 2 examples in the below pic) - basically you want the switch triggered when the target has come to rest on the height adjustment screw

sttng dt1 (resized).jpg

Note the plastic actuator guide in daveddd14 pic (red arrow) is on the wrong side of the switch. See the diagram, the guide is there to stop the switch actuator arm being push sideways as the drop target comes down.

T2 drop (resized).jpeg
Plastic Guide (resized).JPG

Hope this helps

#8247 41 days ago
Quoted from smcclain65:

Thanks for the pics. That last pic is what i needed the most with that leaf switch. It looks like mine is bent and i wasn't for sure if it should be. And what actually should be hitting it. I need to look at mine more closely and compare to yours.

If you need any more let me know. I’m currently waiting for parts.

manny65 thanks again it finally clicked at what you meant, when my new screws come I’ll move it!

#8248 41 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Neiko Power Punch 02612A. Works great, punching the holes was probably the easiest part.
ebay.com link
[quoted image]

Early Christmas present

Hole punch (resized).jpg
#8249 41 days ago

What is a fair price for this stuff? Anyone interested?

20201209_182731 (resized).jpg
#8250 40 days ago

Hey all, I have ONE T-1000 mod in colour available for sale. This is the original mod! Funny story, when I first created this mod back in 2012 Mark Ritchie bought one at Expo to show to Steve! Steve said it looked like it belonged in the game from factory.. and that's a compliment I'll never forget

$70 USD shipped in North America. PM me if interested!

939a33485d861fe86031bf3a4a1ac22db1ac31d6 (resized).jpeg

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