Okay I'm thinking White is the way to go, thanks for the feedback!

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Way better with white. All colored GI should be a crime.

I just repinned a bunch of connectors and will be re-installing the boards back into my backbox tonight. Right now I haven't fully connected all the switches and light boards underneath the playfield yet. Question - I haven't had the machine on since I brought it home, and I want to plug in the connectors and turn it on to see what kind of shape the DMD display is in, but I don't want to risk sending current anywhere it shouldn't be just in case something is in contact with something else it shouldn't be underneath the playfield. What connectors should I leave unconnected for now so as not to risk damaging anything?

Can anyone tell me what screws are used for the black plastic playfield rear glass channel? Length, hex or phillips, #6 or #8? Coarse thread wood screw? Thanks.

I’m not sure the screw size # but definitely larger and longer than the normal silver screws found under the playfield. Wood screws about 3/4”.

Make sure you cover all solenoid wires, 75v.

I installed the loot skull with red eyes from Pinball Life. The ball gets caught between the jaw and the pop bumper cap, have to fix that.

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Interesting, you went with a bit of a side profile rather than straight on like the original, haven't seen that done before - was this because you wanted the different look or you didn't want to cut a hole in the back of the skull?

COOL BLUE. 5000K+ for the Pin Stadiums. What color are the leds in the GI?

Why is your skull turned? That is why it is getting stuck....

Hey guys, wondering if there was ever a definitive fix for that ball rolling past the drop target problem. I've tried everything I could think of, including tightening the spring on the back, put in a brand new drop target and replaced the pull down spring.

Just switch wiring, but everything properly twisted, soldered, and covered with heat-shrink tubing.

I have a few of those ugly hardware store wood screws in the cabinet, I bet that's where they came from. Will have to replace with proper hex-heads.

Looks like you have it turned because you didnt want to cut it. Dont worry! You wont see the cut section at all. Just do it a little at a time so you can take away the least amount possible.

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Hi, another quick question. When upgrading to the L8 software is there anything else that needs to be changed? The one I'm working on has L2 installed, we can switch to L3 and it works, but when we go to L8 the game just hangs and won't boot.

edit: nevermind, turns out L8 uses a different chip!

did you lose the metal plate that sits below your skull too? if so how did you secure it?

I have mine set to a cool white and my UV flasher is tied to the left saucer. Makes jackpots SUPER AWESOME!!!

Did you try putting foam in the skull? I did and the foam started deteriorating and it sucked. Install the loot skull and there is nowhere for the 2nd ball to go.

I was afraid those bright eyes would be too bright. I'm sure I can turn it just needs trimming.

I used the stock stainless bracket to secure it, same mounting holes as well.

do you have a better picture of that area?

I would turn it, cut the back off like I did. 20200120_122004 (resized).jpg

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nice, how did you attach it to the horse shoe piece of metal? drill a hole and use a metal screw + bolt to secure it?

I centered it on the metal bracket, drilled a hole and used 10-32 machine screw, washer and locknut. I also used a hot glue gun on the outside of the lower head where it meets the metal bracket to stabilize the head from side to side movement and also hide any wires.

Anyone do a shop job recently that could help me with these ring sizes? The rubber kit I got was wrong and I didn’t find any good documentation on exactly what size these are supposed to be. Marked them in color for an easy response.

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Download the manual.

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No, the ball would get stuck on top of the first ball in the saucer, or behind the drop target. I upgraded to the latest software (L8) and turned on the drop target down during multiball option. Most of the time the second ball will come back down now, and if it does get stuck one round of ball search seems to find it.

The old rubber ones may still have the size embossed if it was not worn down.

Sorry for the delay in my response, I forgot I'd posted here the other day so wasn't checking.

I drilled a hole in the metal bracket (that's some tough material!) and put a screw through it and into the skull. Unfortunately, the screw head was slightly blocking the ball entrance, so I elevated the skull and bracket on the black spacers.
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Need drill bits for metal,not wood drill bits. Makes a big difference.

anyone have a line on where I can find replacement bolts for the gun? both the mounting bolts and the ones that hold it together.

https://www.pinballsearch.com will search all the main suppliers around the world, so easy to find these hard to source parts

You can get the part numbers from the manual and/or the parts list (https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2524 - Documentation section)

The 4 mounting bolts (looks like Marco has all of these)
4 x 4700-00060-00 fw .219X.500X.063
4 x 4700-00129-00B fw .203x.468x.030 black
4 x 4010-01097-24B ms 10-32x1 1/2 t-r bttn head
4 x 4410-01132-00 nut 10-32 esn

The 4 bolts that hold it together (Marco has the bottom 4 items)
1 x 02-4546 fastner-button head - looks like everyone is out of stock. Maybe see if PPS are getting more made??
3 x 02-4547 fastner-button head 1/2" - PPS has these in stock
4 x 4702-00014-00B lw 1/4-20internal tooth-black
4 x 4702-00013-00B lw #10 internal tooth-black
4 x 4010-01097-06B ms 10-32x3/8 t-r bttn head
4 x 4700-00129-00B fw .203x.468x.030 black

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Long shot but does anyone have a new cliffy set for T2? I didn’t give myself enough time when I ordered it. Kinda at a stall on my restoration. I would send you the new kit I ordered when it arrives in a few week.

Thanks

So i am still having issues with the drop target but have resolved most of them. The drop target drops when hit and goes back up as it is supposed to. But i am still getting an error on switch 71. which is the drop target high switch. From what i can tell there is only one switch on the drop target and it triggers when the drop target is hit and drops. I cant find a high switch. Also it looks like only half of the skull target is visible when fully up so i am assuming thats part of the problem as well. But it still plays fine.

Any advice?

Anyone in need of a drop target decal? I'm going thru my pinball stuff and found a new target decal. I would prefer that this goes to someone who needs it and not someone who is going to put it in a drawer. Free, including postage. Please PM and tell me about the condition of your current decal.

Steve (in Las Vegas)

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Look at your switch matrix. You have a high switch(71) and a low switch (75) these are your target switches in the game along with the drop target feature. It has been awhile since I played T2, but I believe there is a sequence for the drop target to go from low to high or vice versa using the targets on the left side of the playfield. Hopefully, a T2 regular chimes in here.

I would check all the Targets to make sure there are no broken wires or broken diodes. Do all the usual testing and inspections.

My nearly 30 year old, never replaced decal could probably use a refresh!

(also) Steve (in Las Vegas)

Winner, winner, chicken dinner! Send me your address via PM and I'll drop it in the mail.

Steve G

The drop target has a single switch (77). The switches 71-75 are the 5 white standup targets you shoot from the plunger or cannon (the high refers to high up on the PF ie target closest to the skull; equally low refers to the target lowest on the PF ie closest to the flippers) - these are not associated with the drop target.

If switch 77 is closed the target is down, if it is open the target is up. smcclain65 you mention that only half of the skull target is visible, so I think the target is not being physically held up correctly - the coil plunger pushes the target up and it should clip onto a small ledge (#14 Stop Target) that holds it up, the ball then knocks it off that ledge and the spring pulls the target down. So I'd remove the target from under the PF so that it makes it easier to check and work on.

Manually push the plunger up - this will push the drop target (#1) up and it should clip on the Stop Target (#14). If the target is not staying up on the Stop Target, this might be because the Stop Target is worn/missing or the little wedge on the back of the drop target that sits on the Stop Target is worn or the other possibly is that the spring (#10) isn't keeping the drop target pushed forward such that it can hang off the Stop Target. If working correctly the drop target will be hanging off the Stop Target and you can let the coil plunger fall back down, the switch (#19) should now be in the open position ie the target is up (if you manually push the switch arm down you should hear it click as the switch closes). Now the simulate the ball hitting the target, simply knock the target - this will push the target off the Stop Target and spring (#17) will pull the target down, there is a tab on the drop target that will push the switch arm down and it doing so closes the switch ie the target is down.

Let us know how you get on

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Anyone have pictures of where the wires come in that feed the pop bumpers , the GI near the cannon, and the cannon?

Im trying to iron out the last of the bugs and I cant find my "before playfield swap" pictures.

No problem. Just finished bottom side.

The GI for the pops came a little short in my opinion so I made extensions. One wire goes to the tie point in the middle then the other goes to the front most lead (closest the player) which should be tied with a wire to the other two leads.

Let me know if you need the cannon motor and pictures.

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For those that have installed the new repro playfields ... how are they holding up? Do they need more clearcoat or is the playfield holding up factory direct?

Hey guys, would a couple of you mind checking out the thread that holds down this end of the left rear metal wall (circled in yellow) on your T2's and tell me if it has a washer between the playfield and the wall? Mine does, and I'm sure it's original, no idea why it would be there though unless it's a mistake. You can see the washer in the photo, and yes there's the also the usual washer underneath the playfield as well. Maybe it kept that end of the wall from digging into the playfield?

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Yes mine has the washer as well. Washers under a ball guide is used to either protect the PF from the ball guide being pulled down too tight and cutting into the PF, or to address alignment of components (although this I don't believe this is the case here).

You can clearly see it in the below tear down pic

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I dunno - I find it interesting... everyone likes different things and if he decides he doesn't like it he can always change the color

Yup, yours has it on the left side but not on the right side, just like mine. Guess it's staying. Thanks for checking.

Hey @Manny65, I found your album of T2 teardown photos online. It's been very helpful in instances where I didn't take pix of details but should have. Here's a link if it will help anyone -
http://creamyeagle.blogspot.com/2014/05/terminator-2-pinball-tear-down.html

Terminator 2 mantle edition roughly 1/24 size about 5” tall
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Cute. Elaborate?

Ever seen the paper pinbal models? Its one of those.

Where did you get that T-1000? I want one like that. I don’t need the lights, and want the transition of cop to silver look.

Here’s my HK ship mod I just finished.

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