That is strange. If a ball is located in the ball drop. It should trigger and kick the ball up. Is this not the case?

He's getting 2 balls stuck in the skull, so if he's at the start of multiball and the game will want to the skull shot made plus either the saucers locked or balls drained, before activating the VUK. With the 2 balls stuck in the skull, the game will think there is one in the skull and the other is on the playfield (as it is not locked or drained); if you lock or drain the 3rd ball then the game will eventually go into ball search and kick one of the balls up to the cannon.

That's pretty much what happens. But, the second ball is behind and somewhat sitting on top of the ball that is in the saucer. When the game goes into ball search it tries to kick the ball in the VUK but it sometimes jams on the second ball at which point I need to shut the game down and manually get the two balls out - which is a giant PITA.

It turns out that I had already ordered a new set of plastics which are going to arrive soon. Hopefully that will fix the issue.

The plastic should not have anything to do with this issue. Is your target going down too slow? That target should drop very fast, then reset. Have you checked it?

From the photos I've seen in this forum I can't determine how far the right plastic protrudes into the area behind the saucer. But, something sheered my plastic. I'm hoping that if the area behind the saucer is reduced, it will help this problem but that is just a hope.

As far as I can tell, the target is working fine. If anything, I'd worry about it taking to long to go back up after the first ball gets locked. But, I'm not sure how I'd test that.

Ah sorry! Did not understand the illustration/image correctly.

The single black wire is probably J118-3. It connects to J1-2 on the motor regulator board mounted under the playfield. It provides Ground to the Cannon. Without this connection, the Cannon will move too fast, as mine did for the past 16 years

Please note: J116, J117 and J118 have identical pin-outs. So what's connected there could differ from the manual and from machine to machine. J116-3: "To cabinet" -> coin door, J118-3: "To Playfield" -> Cannon.

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Thank you

Ahh, I think I found my problem. The VUK does not have the ball popper cap #03-8053! I'm guessing the first ball falls into the hole thus allowing the second ball to crowd in. In addition, the VUK coil is an AE-26-1200 as opposed to the AE-23-800 that the manual calls for. Not that this is causing my problem but it is still one more poorly shopped component in this machine. It came with several incorrect coils, a missing knocker assembly and numerous dodgy wiring hacks.

Loving T2 so far. First game I ever purchase Pinsound for and Wow what a difference! Tough pill to swallow buying that board but it Really changes the experience no question. Think I may need to go Colordmd on this one also as it feels like a keeper.

I got the ball popper cap and corresponding dowel. A quick question: does the dowel just friction fit into the small hole near the tip of the plunger/armature? It seemed to be really tight and I was worried that I was missing something so I backed off. Thanks.

Yes

My T2 Chrome Edition project has been completed, after many hours, $$$, and mods. I stripped, gutted, prepped, painted and decaled cabinet, did a playfield swap with a new Buthamburg playfield, all mechs cleaned and rebuilt, most part tumbled, new targets, new plastics, legs, refinished the coin door, rails and lockdown bar, Flipper Fidelity speakers, Titans, full Comet LED kit with flashers, chromed wireforms and gun from Pinball Plating, new Rottendog CPU and power driver boards, ColorDMD LCD screen, Side blades, Chrome Edition translite, Voodoo glass, custom T2 skull and T800 figure. And probably a bunch of stuff I've missed. I'm super pleased with how it came out. Now on to something else.

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Wow, looks awesome!

Hey everybody. Is there any way to buy individual plastics or do you need a whole set? My two blue curved pieces that go around the skull at the back are pretty broken, so I'm looking to replace those. You can't see too well in these pics. Looks a little tricky back there but I may go for it haha. Thanks. G

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Marco has them in stock

31-1-50013-16 (left side of skull) https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1-50013-16
31-1-50013-19 (right side of skull) https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1-50013-19

However I've found that there is a fair bit of colour variation on different T2 reproduction plastics compared to the originals. That said given you need both these (so they'll match), it may not be as noticeable with you other plastics as they are not directly next to them.

Thanks for the tip, once again! Yeah they're pretty far back and obscured too, so probably not a big deal if the colors aren't 100% the same. Going to try and fix it up though because the skull even shakes a bit when i hit it, because the plastic bases are not solid. Thanks again!

What Manny said. The light blue has a little aqua tint to it. I'm glad I ordered both pieces even though I only needed the right one, this way they'll match.

OMG...get those plastics cab protectors off and put the metal ones on!
BTW it looks beautiful!

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I have metal cabinet protectors on there as well. Just wanted the red plastic ones as an accent. They don't touch the decals at all. Thank you.

pheeww...You had me worried. It's a lot of work to do decals. I know, I just did my T2.

Decals are not for the faint of heart. Actually the decals are fairly easy. Its the prep up to that point that is time consuming and tedious.

Hey I'm finally in the club. T2 has a special place in my heart since college. Bought it as a late Xmas gift to myself. Covid 19 has let me work in the basement to social distance myself and I've made alot of my own mods.. it has been fun.. already want a 2nd pin.

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My eyes hurt!

There's a spelling mistake at the apron - it's Judgment Day!

Lol ok now that’s funny. What college was that?

I guess this is a differents between american and british english?

holy crap..! I was so excited to get the decal and get it on. Didn't even notice. Even when it is on the translite. Thank you. Mr Webster and I will go back to the decal shop.

I'll blame the spelling on my 6th grade teacher.

https://www.dictionary.com/e/judgement-vs-judgment/

Both spellings are socially acceptable but judgment is the more common spelling. I cant say anything, I made the same mistake on my custom translight's first print. I only call it a typo because the movie's title lacks the e.

So honest feedback, the roses look really bad and out of place (Im aware of the roses in the movie). The Cyberdine building..... its a great idea but in the movie it didnt have a giant sign on the top, just one over the door. I'd ditch the words and put Arnie with a mini-gun in one of the windows instead.

If you use the plastic leg protectors against the decals, they will wrinkle and tear them. If you use the metal standoffs behind the legs, they are a smaller footprint and any damage they cause to the cabinet or decals is not visible. I used the metal standoffs against the cabinet, then installed the red protectors for accent, so they are not touching the cabinet at all. The plastic leg protectors are typically used against painted or silk screened cabinets. As far as your leg bolt spinning, your leg bracket inside the cabinet is probably stripped out.

Another question, one of the bolts on the front leg just spins. Does anyone know whats up with that.

You need to replace the leg support bracket inside the cabinet, as it’s stripped. A less expensive option is to add a nut to the leg bolt inside the cabinet.

Thank you. At this stage if decals are beat, just do the plastic. It probably won't get worse.

I forget where I got mine, probably ebay or something, Ive had em for years.

I found these and they look the same:
https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/playfield-machinery/flipper-bats-and-shafts/transparent-blue-williams-logo-pinball-machine-flipper-bat-with-shaft-20-10110-10/

or

https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/playfield-machinery/flipper-bats-and-shafts/transparent-light-blue-williams-logo-pinball-machine-flipper-bat-with-shaft-10110-30/

i always use metal protectors with any pin i get but plastic might be good in already rippled/ beat areas? Maybe cut around the plastic so it doesn't get worse but then your stuck with them for life unless you re-decal?

These are the only one flipper fingers for the T2.

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Does anyone have a nice used Hunter Killer ship they want to sell? Shoot me a PM please

Apron help!
Has anyone restored or replaced the decal on the apron?
I am so sick and tired of bad reproduction parts. I bought “official licensed” apron decal. The colors are not sharp. But the worst thing is that it’s not black enough?

Would love to hear from others if they had good results? Maybe I bought from a bad seller?

On the images you can see the black difference.

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I sent my original apron to Mr_Tantrum and he made me a replacement one that looks factory. Shoot him a PM.

If you don't find one Marco sells them: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8570

I found one. Thank you

Done!
And thank you

Can I ask how me charged?

Hi group, can some help me with the size of these nuts and bolts for this light board. I believe they are #8-32 but not sure, I am missing mine, need the length too when I go to order from the vendor.

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Be faster to just ask him direct, I dont remember :/

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The blackest of blacks and you cant tell its a vinyl.

Thinking about getting these chrome flippers from Pinball Life. Anybody have any experience with these or have some they recommend instead? Thanks! G https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-bat-and-shaft-assembly-no-logo-gold-or-chrome.html

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I have the chrome flippers on both my T2 and T3. Beautiful!