I don't get it though, if the post is so close that the ring is hitting it, how could any size rubber on the post not get chewed up too? I was planning to use my dremel to grind a semicircle out of the ring so that they don't touch at all. Here's a pic of mine, you can see how the side of the post is worn down and how the post has worn the edge of the ring. The hole for the post is in the same spot as other T2's, right on the outer black circle.

t2 (resized).jpg

I have the same issue-metal post is worn down quite a bit by the bumper ring

I started my T2 restoration 5 years ago and today I fired it up for the first time. What a feeling!

I need some debug help.
Some insert light are not lighting and some a lighting constantly where they should blink. (Mabe ca. 15%)
What is the common course for this? How should I debug it?

Example of one light acting up:

Swap that bulb with the one next to it. If the problem stays in the same spot, its likely a trace on that little PCB or possibly wiring to that PCB. If the problem moves its the bulb.

Shouldnt the center target be red? and you should tweak their positions

Switching bulbs does not help.

It looks like its this row.
Should I look for connector 133?
Because my 133 only has one wire?

Also my left side GI is not working (have changed from 120 to 121 without any luck) But I guess thats another problem.
IMG_8265 (resized).jpgrow (resized).PNG

I just thought that if a row had trouble there where no light? Here there are light its just strange/abnormal

My T2 restoration is coming along pretty well. Been working on the cabinet in between playfield work. This "new" skull is a piece of crap. Has anyone used a better mod? Maybe 3D printed or something along those lines.

20200401_190320 (resized).jpg

20200401_190421 (resized).jpg

20200402_215912 (resized).jpg

Its hard to tell. But looks like the shape is correct but the makeup/paint job is crap.
Can you maybe save it by painting the black better and giving it teeth?

I unplugged the skull eyes and now all lights work as they should. I guess I have to check for a short and maybe the diode on the skull.

That's quite an overbite.

I've never seen one with a red target (or light) there, even back in the day playing it on locations.

I have never seen one with red target. The original did not have one and the reproduction does not have one.
I can use a red led if it was normal? But never heard or seen it before.

I've played a hand full, they all had red center targets and the one I bought also had a red center target.
I think mine was also a re-import.

Targets on the right in orange, in the middle in red and left in white.

Well all the T2's I've seen here in Australia have never had a red target there and checking the T2 Parts List is shows 5 white (A-14690-5), 3 orange (A-14690-15) & 3 red (A-14691-4)

How bright should the four CPU lights in the middle be? I find mine a lot dimmer than the rest of the lamps.
Is this normal? Seems odd.

I know for a fact mine werent stock, I mean its pretty obvious:
merp (resized).jpg

BUT, I always saw the center target red, so I just assumed they used what they had on hand in red (and in this case, white too lol).

Well I'm finally starting the teardown of a T2 I got for free from a friend's in-laws a few months ago. The game was sitting in their house for 20+ years and stopped working, I also don't think the glass had ever been taken off. The MPU ended up having the most acid damage I've ever seen on a game, once I replaced it the game booted up without any issues! The rest of the game is surprisingly clean.

The PF is overall pretty nice aside from the hotdog and one really weird wear spot below it. Is this a normal spot for wear? It seems pretty strange but I should be able to touch it up.

20200403_153442 (resized).jpg

20200403_153824 (resized).jpg

That's the result of the flipper dragging on the playfield, caused by a loose or broken flipper bushing.

Ah that makes sense. Hopefully I can touch it up

I don't think so. Playfield wear caused by flipper drag would fall along the arc of the movement of the flipper, and be curved. Those wear marks are vertical and straight.

No matter how slow you are assembling things and look at all the parts, I hate when you come up with something as an "extra". Looking through all my photos I can't see where I had removed this from. Any clues?

20200404_153024 (resized).jpg

20200404_153032 (resized).jpg

20200404_153056 (resized).jpg

20200404_153109 (resized).jpg

Hm, maybe a loose screw got caught under the flipper or something. Either way I'm happy with my touchup so far. I don't think I'll try to fix the dark blue area since it's not bad. Color matching the neon red/orange around the insert is going to be fun...

2020-04-04 (resized).jpg

LOL. I had tumbled it with some parts from the playfield. Got the whole playfield assembled and looked down and said WTF. Thank you. Makes perfect sense now. Out of context assembling the playfield.

Glad I could give you a chuckle today. We all need one.

Yep the A-14690 are rear mounted targets (the white and orange targets on the T2) while the A-14691 are front mounted (used for the red targets). I found it common to find a mix of targets on a T2, as the op simply used what they had on hand.

Sorry for bumping this question. But really need to know before I start to take everything apart for testing.
Is it normal that the four CPU lights are more dim compared to all other inserts? Or should they have same brightness level?

The should be roughly the same, just put brighter LEDs in them.

The CPU lights are GI - check whether you have the GI lights dimmed in your settings.

I find that they are not as bright as the inserts, but this might just be because of my settings (sorry not near my machine to test) or simply because they are GI.

Thank you. Reflowed solder on the board and it solved the issue.

Just joined the T2 Me to movement this weekend. Have always wanted this game and after a few plays it has proven to be a Great choice! From playing another one local I opted to pull the trigger on the PinSound setup on this one as the stock sound package is the only weak spot for me. Upgraded to LED's which Really makes the game pop and have a few minor mods including the speaker LED rings and eyes in route. Loving this game so far.

IMG_5056 (resized).jpg

Get the pinsound shaker as well. Out of all the games I have added a shaker to this one is by far my favorite. It really blends in well and makes the game more exciting.

Looks interesting but for $200 for a shaker I may opt to slightly upgrade the speakers as a priority. Most games I just go with the FF speakers but the results have been less then wow in most cases for the money. Considering just adding a sub and keeping the stock speakers unless someone has a better suggestion.

I'm also a fan of the pinsound speakers They seem to match really well with the board.

I just got the Britemods LED skull eyes and I'm having a hell of a time getting them into the bulb holders. The skull is out of the machine so it's not a problem holding the head in one hand and pressing the bulbs with the other, it just feels like the wedge bases are too thick and don't want to fit into the sockets. Anyone else have this problem? What did you do? If I press any harder I'm worried that my hand is going to slip and I'll crush the skull.

Double check that your metal flanges inside the wedge bases are not bent closed for some reason. Sometimes you have to tweak them open with a small screwdriver.

They're fine. Everything looks fine, I think it's just that the plastic wedge of the bulb is thicker than the base will allow. I'd had this happen before when putting wedge LED's into pop bumpers, but with those I can shove the bulb down hard with little fear of breaking anything. I thought maybe grinding off a little plastic from the bulb might help, but I don't want to ruin them.

I have a electrical issue and I really need your help.

If I unplug upper eyes (Skull) everything works perfectly.
If I connect the skull 90% of the time the light in that row is acting up (Being on constantly or blinking -seems like interferens to the game)

The LED's in the skull works just fine (they light up) and I dont measure any shorts in the skull either.

What should I look for? Could it be the diode on the skull wire or?

rowz (resized).PNG

I just picked up a T2 with a bunch of minor issues and have most of them sorted. But, I have a somewhat embarrassing question. The knocker is not working and I am unable to identify the solenoid/assembly. It might be missing or I might just be an idiot. It was not at all clear from the manual were this is located. A picture or description of where this is located would be greatly appreciated.

If a manual didn't come with the game get one. All your questions like this can be found in there. Very important to have when working on your game. Congratulations on your T2!

Ok, I'm sort of an idiot! Once malenko sent his picture I knew were it should go. But, mine is missing - I guess I'll need to use eyeamred2u's technique until I get a new assembly. Then, I went to check the manual and sure enough there it was called out in the upper right hand corner of the backbox - duhh.

IMG_2446 (resized).JPG