Here’s a question:

Got a T2 that I’m finally getting a chance to work on. Burned connectors at J114, J115 and J120.

Take a look at the stuff going on in the back of J115!!! How can I tell if this is right, or even ok???
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Not the prettiest trace repair ive seen, but not the ugliest either! Its right, so unless you want to replace the board or try to make it prettier, leave it alone.

I picked up a nice T2 a couple of weeks back. I am getting air balls off the post sleeves (I also posted this question to the tech forum). No issues with the targets, just the sleeves. I have checked to make sure the posts are not angle backward and the slope of the pin is right at 8 degrees. I also checked the rubber alignment on the flippers to make sure they were not too low.

Any thoughts? I was wondering if tapered post sleeve might alleviate the problem?

Thanks

Cool, will do. I have a couple of pins that need replacing in those spots. Can I get close up pics of J115 and J120?

Here’s what I’m dealing with:
J115 looks to have the loops in the right spots, but want to verify. Look at the far right though, orange wire, it just ends and isn’t connected to anything. Does it loop in?

J120 some of the pics I saw only have like 5 wires in use. I can’t go by color, so trying to see if the cluster of wires is unnecessary

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Set up and played a few. Installed color dmd (found ribbon cable not good enough for that display, swapped and good to go). Nice fast game.

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Sorted out the J115 and J120 wiring, but still have one last thing to solve. Extra bonus, when putting back the connectors, I noticed on one of the pics that the connector they had marked as J108 was actually for J505 on the sound board and BOOM - the no sound issue was fixed!

So after replacing the pins and headers at J115 and J120, I have most of the GI back up, what’s missing is the lower half of the back box. None of the GI was working before, so this is progress, but any ideas where to look next? I believe these go through the connectors I just replaced. Pics below:

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Orange and White/Orange for the bottom GI in the backbox (on the J120 connector - I think they are J120-2 and J120-8)

Looks like you have a credit dot too, so make sure you go through all the switch tests after you sort the lighting out.

Has anyone done a T2 Playfield swap?

What would you recommend:
Have the playfield in the cabinet or outside the cabinet while populating it?

I would like to do minimal damage on the cabinet etc.

Ps. if you have done a thread with images of the process, please share a link

easiest in my opinion is to have it outside the cabinet. Put the playfields side by side. And just put things over one by one. So you know where each item should go. In between, make photo's, lots of them. When you take something of, clean it, refresh it, polish it, and then put it on, it may take some time.

Agree with Peterg...outside easiest and best imo. I have a ton of photos if you get stuck.

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that is one hell of a chroem edition! Would love to see that finished.

Looking to buy the wire form that goes behind the five bank targets? Or if anybody knows where to get one or the wire to make one. thanks

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I made my replacement. You need Steel Music Wire (I got mine at Ace Hardware) in the same diameter. I used bolt cutters to make the cut. You can get a wire bending jig, but if you look at how they work, you can make a temporary one by putting some nails in wood in the right pattern. Easy peasy!

I might have that. I'll check when I get home.

Thanks Peter. Think I already posted pics some time ago but here you go.

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I'm pretty sure this is the one you're missing. Looks like it lines up.

So pm me your address. You can just pay me shipping once I find out how much.

Unless... you happen to be local or headed to York and have a T2 wall hanger playfield that would look better in my game than the piece of poop that's in there now

I also have
Wall hanger Addams, dr who, DM, JD, cftbl, acdc pro, ghostbusters prem, and other playfields to trade.

I know there are some nice NOS playfields out there for sale, but I'm trying to fix this up on the cheap.

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And now for the next piece that's missing from this T2 and hopefully the last. I'm missing the bracket ball guide that goes on top of this post right here in front of the ramp. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Any one got some used slingshot plastics I could buy from them?

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The bottom of the 31-1-50013-16 playfield plastic goes on that post

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/31-1-50013-16.html

Does anyone else have a T2 with no ball gate (A-13505) under the skull? Or has anyone played a T2 for a while that didn't have that gate? Just wondering what kind of problems one gets from not having it.

My game has that part # gate in the shooter lane (just purchased) and at the top right of the loop. I didn't even realize a gate should be under the skull, and that it was missing.

Got my parts from Marco yesterday and wondering if I should put another order in just for the skull gate, or if it's not a big deal I could wait till I need other stuff.

Thanks for any feedback.

Believe the gate is to stop balls bouncing back out. A full powered shot from the right flipper could potentially hit the wireform behind the VUK and bounce back over the VUK and come out.

There are traces/pads on the top and bottom of the board... When replacing the pins, you solder from the bottom, and sometimes the solder doesn't flow through to the pads on the top, and you'll have no connection. If you used the plastic header connector spacer-base, you cant see under it. You may need to remove the plastic or carefully pry it up a bit and flow some solder from the top of the board. I've have his occur several times when repairing roasted GI connectors on WPC boards.

Interesting, that might be it. I had to do some modifying on pins 10,11,12 at J115. Not sure if it’s any of those, but they were the most scorched. Also around pin 7 and 8 I think.

Thanks.

Rebuilt one of the pops today and played a bunch of killer games with no issues. Think I'll wait till i need other stuff till i order that gate.

So I still have no progress on the GI situation. It is an in line problem somewhere, because if I swap J120 and J121 I still get nothing on the lower half backbox GI. I’m new to digital multimeters, so need to figure that out.

Went hunting for other problems, only the right speaker is working. The left and cabinet speaker have nothing. I have two sets of wires, black and black/yellow, and they are in the right spots. Swapping those connectors (J504 and J505) doesn’t change the result. So need help there too.

Next, take a look at the pictures below on the skull assembly. The switch is hanging by a single screw, and the lever seems too short to make connection with ... I think the drop target? (It was too the right of the bottom of the assembly.) on top of that, I have a stray yellow/purple wire not connected to anything.

Any thoughts on the speaker or stray wire? And can I get a pic for what your switch looks like on the skull assembly?

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On the drop target switch, the loose white/purple wire should be soldered to the same switch lug as the other wire/purple wire on the switch.

Yes you'll need a second screw (4002-01105-8 Mach. Screw, 2-56 x 1/2") to hold the switch into place - in looking at your picture you have the plastic guide for the actuator so you may want to use the 4002-01105-10 Mach. Screw, 2-56 x 5/8" ... just check the length of the current one. The drop target has a plastic tab on the back that will push the switch actuator arm down when the target drops (below is a pic to give you an idea - the switch in the picture may have a longer actuator arm than what it should) . The switch is 5647-12693-31 and Pinball Life indicates the actuator arm is 1.9" long. Btw the plastic guide for the actuator goes on the outside of the switch to stop the actuator arm deflecting away rather than going down (see the 2nd image)

As for the lower insert GI string, that could simply be that one of the 2 associated wires in the connector itself is not making contact - if you have the original IDC style connector they are notorious for this. So swapping the connectors between J120 and J121 proves that the issue is somewhere from the connector through to the string itself. First place I'd check is the connector, there are IDC tools for pushing the wires into the connector or some people use a very small screwdriver as an alternate with varying degrees of success.

Let us know how you get on
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I’m seeing that I need some sort of a spacer to get the leaf on the switch to be far enough out to reach that tab protruding out from the drop target. The bottom of the drop is hitting it and bending the whole thing. In your pic, is the lead switch angled out from the micro switch base?

If the actuator arm of the switch doesn't reach the tab on the drop target, then it's wrong and you should replace it.

Basically the micro switch needs to work, in other words when the drop target is pushed up by the coil the actuator arm will go up and be on an angle as shown in the above pic (as the is an internal spring in the micro switch); when the drop target is released it'll be pulled down by the spring that attaches between the target and bracket until the target and coil plunger tab rest on the big screw (number 15 in the above diagram). One of the 2 screws that hold the micro switch in place (number 21) is in a slotted hole that allows the micro switch to be angled such that when the drop target is down the actuator arm has been lowered enough to trigger the switch (if you manually lower the drop target you should hear a tiny click as the actuator arm triggers the switch) however shouldn't be permanently bending the actuator arm (there may be a slight deflection in the arm itself but it is made of spring steel and designed to handle this), nor should the arm be catching the bottom of the target (the arm should sit parallel to the target and only the tab should make contact).

First thing to do is go into the switch test and check that the micro switch is working, if working then you just need to replace the switch actuator arm otherwise replace the whole switch with a new one that has the correct actuator arm length. This will ensure that the switch works, the arm is the correct length and that it is straight and shouldn't get hit by the bottom of the target (if it does then something is out of alignment - bent bracket or the switch or target is not installed correctly)

The switch it self I can confirm is working. But let me clarify what I mean, because I think I explained it poorly. The switch arm is shorter than the one above but it looks like it still reaches the tab, which I think is what you mean above. But what’s happening is my switch it’s positioned in a way that the tab isn’t hitting the switch, rather the bottom of the drop hits it, which may be why the switch was twisted all together with only one screw in it when I got it. When I place it back, it looks like I need to create more space where the bracket is mounted so the switch itself can sit further out so only the tab hits it. So wondering if that’s how it’s situated on your games, which some sort of spacer where the switch mounts onto the bracket.

As per my previous post the actuator arm shouldn't get hit by the bottom of the target, if it does then something is out of alignment - bent bracket or the switch or target is not installed correctly. In the below diagram, the black arrow is pointing to the drop target while the red arrow is pointing to the switch - so the switch should sit out far enough that only the drop target tab hits the actuator arm. Maybe best to post several pics of your mech, so that we can potentially spot the issue

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Leaving the club shortly...its been a great journey!

Hasta La Vista babies...

So fuse 112 which is the solenoid secondary keeps blowing on my T2. What would causes and where should I start looking?

Here's a new alternate translite that's available.

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On a game

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.

Ew dont bring that trash in here

lol.

That translight looks neat but doesnt line up with the LEDs very well. Im waiting on my final print so I can start selling my alt translight.

Nice, thanks. I see plenty of stuff on pinside that doesn't appeal to me but I just keep my mouth shut because my parents raised me to be a gentleman.

Comet LEDs matrix system is awesome for moving or adding lamps and flashers anywhere you want. Its cheap and easy! Best of luck with your translite sales!

CPR just released Terminator 2 Backglass with Real Custom Mirroring:
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/t2-glass/

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T2 Club should be the t2 club, not a general discussion.

Joined the club today! Surreal feeling pumped a million quarters into this baby as a teen.

Anybody have any leads on custom color Instruction Cards? Thanks. G

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Here's some that you can download and printout yourself

http://www.pinballcards.com/Search?submit_form=0&search=terminator
http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/

First "mod" on my new T2 today. Cool instruction cards I found here:
http://www.pinballcards.com/Pinball-Cards/Terminator-2-V1

Thanks for all the suggestions, folks who replied etc. G

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Nifty... Anyone with a minty translight want to buy this, and then sell me their minty translight?? PM me!

What would you pay for my T2 translite? I want this CPR Backglass.

Hi all. Still a newb here but I got a "Check Switch 62 - Left Ramp Made Error." The top part of the switch has come off the nub, so it's dangling loose and out of the lane. All the electrics still work, when i tap it by hand. Does anyone have any fixes for making the top metallic piece fit back on properly again? Many thanks and apologies if I got any of the terminology wrong haha.

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I assume you mean the actuator arm (the metal strip that the ball makes contact with) has come off the black plastic knob on the switch body, that the actuator arm pivots on. In this case unscrew the switch off the wireform so that it is easy to handle, the actuator arm will have 2 holes that clip onto those knobs on the switch (1 on either side of the switch). If that area of the actuator arm has been stretched you may need to press the metal sides slightly together so that it doesn't pop off the knobs on the switch. If the knob has been completely worn down and won't hold the actuator arm in place then you'll need a new switch. Once you have clipped the arm back into place, you should be able to press the arm and hear the switch click. Then just screw the switch back into place (note that the switch will need to be positioned such that a ball passing by will trigger the switch but still allow the ball to continue on down the wireform).