Beat ya to the punch. I gave all the connectors a good reseating, including the ribbon cables. The DMD was also in known good working order with no visible dark spots or ghosting before the game stopped booting, so I'd be surprised if it was the display itself that conked out, but anything's possible I guess. Gotta do a little more testing with the multimeter when I have some free time but after reading what I can find on the internet, it seems like I might have some dead transistors/some burning going on maybe

Your game is working correctly, that is just an outhole kicker, not a rocket launcher... The ball should come thru a return lane when ejected.

Return spring is missing, broken, worn out and/or deformed.

What were the crazy numbers? First step is to confirm proper voltages are being supplied by the DMD driver board. Make sure to set your meter on the proper range. There should be over 100V DC there. Be careful!

Check with your meter, all the fuses on the DMD board to make sure they are good.

If you are getting attract sounds and attract patterns in the inserts on the playfield, the game is booting and your problem is a display issue.

My plastics are yellowed slightly from either smoke or sun damage I am not sure. What would be the best thing to try and bring these back mean green and some novus?

Dang that sucks, and repos are not available anymore I don't think. I know marco sells or or two pieces but from what I have heard the colors are off on them

I have bought a licensed set and it looks great. There are some still in stock fx. Here https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/catalog/product/view/id/7695/s/terminator-2-plastic-set/category/155/

You can get them right from Peter: [email protected]

I put a set on mime and they are perfect!

Couple years ago someone posted how to get the yellow out of plastics...it’s a chemical reaction you need...so no “normal” cleaner will work...you need to mix a few things together...I’ll try to find the thread.............Joey

Here it is.....!!!...bu bye yellow plastics....!!!..........Joey
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/say-goodbye-to-old-yellowed-plastics

Can anyone help with with a picture of the connector coming of the backbox lights? Last thing I need to finish this restore.

Anyone interested in an ALT translight? All original hand drawn art and would be $110 shipped in the CONTUS
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I'll get a pic with it on my T2 when I get a chance to run over to storage and hook it up.

I am

False alarm on my T2 I think.....big thank you to the people who replied with some advice. I pulled the board and the F602 fuse looks totally fine but tests dead. In between the game failing for the first time and grabbing the meter a week later, I didn't test the fuses til I had time to pull the board out today to start going through the surface mount components. Fuses were the first thing I checked and sure enough one was dead - that explains the -125 and -113 rails being dead and I bet if I toss a replacement 3/8A slow blow in there it will come alive once again.

Now I just need to redo the burnt GI headers...then we'll be looking good

Here's an idea of another topper design for the T2, made of stainless steel.
Not again a damned head - I'm fed up with these.

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I'm going to ensure fitment , and snap some pix of it lit up, yours will be the first order filled if you still want one This is probably going to be a very limited run,maybe 50 total

That will look dope with flashers in it!

Awesome can't wait to see it. I have some fire leds to use that i have in my current translite. Its got some spots i had to touch up and was filthy when i got it.

Great work! Any plans of making any to sell?

Not for sale, the bodywork was done by another pinhead.
I have to prepare wiring and lights... will be unique.

OK so the F602 fuse was a good place to start, but not the solution. The replacement fuse I put in there blew immediately when I turned the game on. I am still getting attract sounds/flashers when the game turns on. I infer from this that the problem is likely specifically with the DMD driver board. My plan now is going mounted component by mounted component and looking for discrepancies from the stated values in the manual.

Looking at the schematic, F602 is the first place power arrives from header J605 (the AC transformer). Does that mean I should specifically be looking at the transformer? Or can the fuse be blown due to a component issue on the driver board as well?

Unlikely the transformer is the cause of you fuse blowing. Much more likely the cause is on the DMD driver board or the DMD itself. You can try replacing the fuse again and turning it on without the DMD connected. If it doesn’t blow again, check the voltages the DMD driver board is generating. Might just be worth it to buy a power section rebuild kit from GPE or similar.

Here is the reason my pop bumper caps are opaque white. They light up red and the center flashes blue when struck

I’m not 100% sure I got the root cause, but it looks like I had the wrong coil sleeve on the cannon coil that was interfering with the launch. I’m not sure why the problem would have started when it did, but so far it seems to have fixed it.

Good Afternoon. I have a question regarding my T2. I'm just curious if anyone has had this happen to them before. I turned my machine on, everything is normal. No problems. I set it up for 2 games. I usually wait to line up my drop target before pulling the gun trigger initially., but this time, when I pull the trigger, the machine goes dark, the display goes blank, and the machine reboots. After rebooting, if I pull the trigger immediately o game 1, everything is fine. If I wait til the lights fall on the drop target I wanna hit, BOOM, it reboots the machine again. Ok, my dumbass has to try it a 3rd time, same thing. So now, I power down the machine, wait a few minutes, and restart it. Once I do, everything us fine, no problems, and it plays great the rest of the night. And yes, there was beer involved which is why I kept trying it over and over. Has anyone had anything like this happen before?

Joined the t2 club yesterday ..

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Added T2 to the line-up. Was with the seller for over 4 years...long story.. finally in my gameroom!

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One more

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Will need a HK ship

Very nice

Anyone have a DIY solution for making the T2 skull eyes cooler? I do not feel like spending $15 on two LEDS for the real mod.

check around posts 3056 to 3073

Im,new to the t2 club.. Just about finished with my machine..,, adjustments . led bulbs . rubbers ., gun rebuild ECT ect ..,
Im haveing trouble on my kick back in the left outline.. I know most of the time the ball is suppose to make the orbit on the kick back . mine does not.it hits the metal on the right side and falls back imto the pf ... I've adjusted the coil mech sevral ways . re sleeved the coil ...tryed to adjust the lane. ., with a little improvement but not alot... Not a huge deal but I like things to work properly ,, I just waxed the shit outa the metal and lanes.., any suggestions are cool..

it's normal

5 year owner...mine made it to the pops twice..........Joey

Officially in. Fan of the movies, then one came up local. Restored cab, new playfield, pinsound, chrome trim and good mods. Price was fair if parts and pf work added up. Happy to have this in the lineup!
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Pic is borrowed from sellers ad as I have not set up yet....

Looks great. Where can I buy one?

Ok cool.. Good to know.. I tweaked. Adjusted. Waxed. Sleeved ECT.. Haha

My understanding is that stock flipper coils on T2 were under powered to start and just get worse as the game gets older. I did a flipper rebuild on mine and put the next most powerful coils in it. I love the way it shoots now. No problem getting to the lanes, upper lock or the pops.

I think they were referring to the left out lane kick back reaching the pops. Like how Getaway should hit the tunnel

Is there a more powerful coil I could use on the kick back ?

I do not know, bought it from a local guy that had it lying around. Complete set with all kinds off chrome things.

Which nr did you get in?

Ive never heard or seen this be an issue with t2. Just keep your mechs clean and you shouldnt have a problem.

Oh gotcha. See what happens when you come into the middle of a conversation? I've noticed my kickback has no trouble getting up to the pops after a playfield waxing and new balls. Not sure if that's the trick or not.

Not sure I understand.

I can't remember where I read about others having this problem. Mine had the stock coils and it was still under powered even after a rebuild. That's why I put the next level coil in there.

Which Nr. Coil or color (blue, red, green)?