What’s the difference between the standard and premium upgrade on the pinball pro speakers?
Quoted from athenspin:I would like to know this as well? Anbody upgrade T2 with pinball pro speakers? How are the results?
You missed my reply immediately after his question?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/145#post-5005252
Quoted from athenspin:What’s the difference between the standard and premium upgrade on the pinball pro speakers?
"The Premium high energy subwoofer is CHROME with a 50% bigger magnet and develops deeper/tighter bass than our regular subwoofer." Not sure why the explanation page on their website went away. Pulled this up with the Wayback Machine:
https://web.archive.org/web/20180204232258/http://pinballpro.net/shop/high-energy-upgrade/
Maybe shoot ovfdfireman to verify it's still accurate?
Quoted from cmack750:Looks good! Since it looks like you are into modding it a bit, I highly recommend mirror blades on T2 and replacing the hunter killer ship with the cinemachines die cast model.
I found a better ship im ordering. This one is from led pinball mods.
1ed4187b49a3c5cccbe36dc619444ae9203d924d (resized).jpg291a58f0853889f40e274b1b77e2e83e2a7907af (resized).jpgece635921538b3d43ade6ad8700336b9aca14b0f (resized).jpgQuoted from Rob-T-800:I found a better ship im ordering. This one is from led pinball mods.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice! I've had one in my cart for a WHILE. Other projects to work on before I get back to the T2. I do have LPM's lighted speaker panel (ultimate) for my TAF, and I LOVE it!! Planning to buy the ultimate version for T2 also.
Quoted from Rob-T-800:I found a better ship im ordering. This one is from led pinball mods.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That's the cinematics model I was talking about, which is VERY nice. Looks like they must have drilled it out and added LEDs to it. I just bought the model and attached the existing wireform to it and added an LED light strip to the bottom and attached it to the GI under the playfield. Can't even see the light strip, but it adds a lot of light to that part of the playfield, which really needs it. No idea how much the mod costs, but my DIY version of this: $25 for the model and $5 for the light strip.
Quoted from cmack750:That's the cinematics model I was talking about, which is VERY nice. Looks like they must have drilled it out and added LEDs to it. I just bought the model and attached the existing wireform to it and added an LED light strip to the bottom and attached it to the GI under the playfield. Can't even see the light strip, but it adds a lot of light to that part of the playfield, which really needs it. No idea how much the mod costs, but my DIY version of this: $25 for the model and $5 for the light strip.
Cheapest I've seen the Cinemachines version:
Are you sure this is the same one from LPM? If so, they obviously paint theirs with a silver paint, but how do they open up the turbines? They look solid on the CM model. Or are they removable?
Quoted from SeaLawyer:Cheapest I've seen the Cinemachines version:
https://www.bigbadtoystore.com/product/variationdetails/46292?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz7-hovSv4gIVAZSzCh3NMgmDEAQYASABEgKuWfD_BwE
Are you sure this is the same one from LPM? If so, they obviously paint theirs with a silver paint, but how do they open up the turbines? They look solid on the CM model. Or are they removable?
I bought mine off Amazon about 6 months ago with free shipping for that same price but there were only a few left at the time....it's more expensive there now. Supply and demand I guess.
I can't say for sure that LPMs is exactly the same....but the design appears to be identical at the very least. Maybe they cast one so they could reproduce/modify it. The engines on the cinematics model are not removable.
EDIT: without seeing it in person, but looking closely at the pictures of the LPM version, the turbines quality seems to be worse than the rest of the ship....and maybe even a different color/shade. This would support the idea of creating a hollow engine cast for the LEDs and then just replacing the original portion with them instead. Just a guess.
Quoted from athenspin:What’s the difference between the standard and premium upgrade on the pinball pro speakers?
Quoted from SeaLawyer:"The Premium high energy subwoofer is CHROME with a 50% bigger magnet and develops deeper/tighter bass than our regular subwoofer." Not sure why the explanation page on their website went away. Pulled this up with the Wayback Machine:
https://web.archive.org/web/20180204232258/http://pinballpro.net/shop/high-energy-upgrade/
Maybe shoot ovfdfireman to verify it's still accurate?
Thanks for posting the info. We actually did not take it down, just moved it. it’s on every kit page as a link. next to where you select the model you want we have in bold orange “click here to view the premium high energy upgrade” which takes you here http://pinballpro.net/premium-upgrade/
Now it is easier to order and to find, because before placing the order you must select which version you want on each kit. Before you had to know it existed to buy it.
Here is the kit for T2 found here https://pinballpro.net/shop/williams-wpc-89-speaker-kit/
Hope that helps!
Greg
Quoted from athenspin:I would like to know this as well? Anbody upgrade T2 with pinball pro speakers? How are the results?
Hey Fellas-I upgraded my speakers to Flipper Fidelity (I think they and pinball pro are about the same, except I picked up locally and saved on shipping)
I definitely noticed a solid upgrade in sound quality (how could you not with the original $2 paper speakers that were 28 years old) and added a subwoofer. I REALLY like what the subwoofer brings to the sound-the sub I bought from Amazon for $89 and can handle multiple pins
Glad I did it. I also added an LED kit to my machine that lights under glow, trough and shooter lane, back box etc. it’s bluetooth so I can change each color from my phone, strobe them/blink or even pulse as well as constant on. These 2 upgrades made the game so much more enjoyable!
Quoted from Nikrox2:After installing the new lighted hunter killer and the laser in the cannon mine is doing the extract thing. Hitting the bar not the targets.
At first thought it was more on the cannon side but I really didn’t make any adjustments there
Could it be I have the bar tightened to much or at lower level? (say attachment strip for ship under the bar instead of on top of it will raise the bar and force the ball down into the targets?)
Any suggestions or tips ?
(And no the laser target isn’t worth it as I can’t align it even close. But my granddaughters think it’s cool looking so leaving in there for them. Lol. But my 9 year old knows to score with the cannon so we need to fix this so she can get back to high scores again. Ha!)
Aha! Added in a small rubber ring to raise the bar up on both ends. Cannon is now hitting targets correctly now
F823D49F-2F31-40A2-A6F3-EA58C97C580C (resized).jpegQuoted from ovfdfireman:Thanks for posting the info. We actually did not take it down, just moved it. it’s on every kit page as a link. next to where you select the model you want we have in bold orange “click here to view the premium high energy upgrade” which takes you here http://pinballpro.net/premium-upgrade/
Now it is easier to order and to find, because before placing the order you must select which version you want on each kit. Before you had to know it existed to buy it.
Here is the kit for T2 found here https://pinballpro.net/shop/williams-wpc-89-speaker-kit/
Hope that helps!
Greg
Awesome, thanks Greg!! Love your premium kit! Have it on my TAF and T2. Gonna upgrade my TS as well. Makes a HUGE difference!!
Quoted from SeaLawyer:Cheapest I've seen the Cinemachines version:
https://www.bigbadtoystore.com/product/variationdetails/46292?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz7-hovSv4gIVAZSzCh3NMgmDEAQYASABEgKuWfD_BwE
Are you sure this is the same one from LPM? If so, they obviously paint theirs with a silver paint, but how do they open up the turbines? They look solid on the CM model. Or are they removable?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/109#post-3945643
Yours is AWESOME, rx3! You mentioned finding lenses for the turbines, but apparently re-used the fans somehow. I assume LPM does the same thing (including the chrome paint). Your wingtip LED's are frikking cool though!!
Quoted from SeaLawyer:Yours is AWESOME, rx3! You mentioned finding lenses for the turbines, but apparently re-used the fans somehow. I assume LPM does the same thing (including the chrome paint). Your wingtip LED's are frikking cool though!!
Thanks, man. Yeah I was using 2 different ships. The one with the lenses was a larger model. A lot of experimenting.
Quoted from embryonjohn:Got my Termie back together but I’m now left with an extra gate. I have one on the shooter lane, one on the A.I. ramp & one on the chase ramp. This is a forward only ramp. Where could it go?[quoted image]
It’s been a bit since I’ve owned a T2, but I feel like there was one at the skull. May be wrong.
Quoted from embryonjohn:Got my Termie back together but I’m now left with an extra gate. I have one on the shooter lane, one on the A.I. ramp & one on the chase ramp. This is a forward only ramp. Where could it go?
There's another one on the Skynet ramp -- but it's not a forward only ramp; neither is the AI one.
Quoted from maffewl:It’s been a bit since I’ve owned a T2, but I feel like there was one at the skull. May be wrong.
Here's the one I remember...
T2 Gate at Skull (resized).JPGQuoted from maffewl:Here's the one I remember...[quoted image]
That’s installed.
So is the sky net ramp. I’m beginning to think it was just in the bottom in the cabinet with the other trash
Just joined last Saturday!! This was one of those bucket list games I had to get. For me, it was the first pinball I ever played. I played it in a bowling ally when I was a youth. Never knew how to play pinball back then (still don't) Game used to always hand me my ass. She needs a good shopping, rubbers led's, some mods ect but is fully functional.
20190530_211128 (resized).jpg20190530_211131 (resized).jpgQuoted from embryonjohn:That’s installed.
So is the sky net ramp. I’m beginning to think it was just in the bottom in the cabinet with the other trash
I think you should look in the top right area (chase loop).
IMG_2988 (resized).JPGQuoted from pintibo:I think you should look in the top right area (chase loop).[quoted image]
Damn!
That’s it...
Now I gotta take it all apart...
Thank you!
Quoted from Malenko:I'll have a T2 Alt translight for sale soon. Completely original work of art as to not piss off Planetary Pinball, and Retro Refurbs cant steal it from me and sell it either. Im waiting for the first print to arrive so I can take some pictures of it installed
Can't wait to see it
hi guys how are you going ... a query on the sidebars ..
I bought a T2 a few months ago and I'm restoring it.
I think these bars are not the original ones, they do not cover the entire side and the top of the glass is the same. They tell me what it is like? or if they pass photos
greetings to all
20190601_230758 (resized).jpg20190601_230801 (resized).jpg20190601_230808 (resized).jpghow weird is not it? I want to buy all more plastic parts for the backglass and the one that holds the glass ... the measurements of the T 2 is 27 inches or 30? and the laterals 17?
Quoted from embryonjohn:I should have taken before photos before the cleaning. I had to wire brush the scum out of the once black grip. Gross...
The fricken gun off the game is heavier than most real guns. Do some games have plastic guns or are they all metal?[quoted image]
Looks great! After I finished cleaning mine when I first picked up my T2, my wife asked if I was going to clean the gun handle. I told her I just finished cleaning it! She pointed out all the "organic material" in the cross-hatching. I used a pick to scrape out a disturbing amount of additional stuff! :0
I've never seen anything other than metal on Williams game from this era.
Quoted from embryonjohn:I should have taken before photos before the cleaning. I had to wire brush the scum out of the once black grip. Gross...
The fricken gun off the game is heavier than most real guns. Do some games have plastic guns or are they all metal?[quoted image]
That is well done. Makes me feel like maybe I should clean up mine since it always bothers me but I just haven't dealt with it. What did you use as your cleaner to go along with the wire brush? You use a Polish as well?
Quoted from embryonjohn:I should have taken before photos before the cleaning. I had to wire brush the scum out of the once black grip. Gross...
The fricken gun off the game is heavier than most real guns. Do some games have plastic guns or are they all metal?[quoted image]
Goldeneye has a black plastic gun.
Quoted from cmack750:That is well done. Makes me feel like maybe I should clean up mine since it always bothers me but I just haven't dealt with it. What did you use as your cleaner to go along with the wire brush? You use a Polish as well?
This made quick work of the black crud packing the hatching. You might not even have to dismount the gun. I had to cause the internal spring was broken
4F900199-A2BC-44D0-A130-B652C2420C13 (resized).jpegQuoted from Asanteiro:hi guys how are you going ... a query on the sidebars ..
I bought a T2 a few months ago and I'm restoring it.
I think these bars are not the original ones, they do not cover the entire side and the top of the glass is the same. They tell me what it is like? or if they pass photos
greetings to all[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Mine is like this as well. Pretty normal. They had to make over 15000 of this machine so i imagine they were trying to crank them out in a timely manner.
Quoted from embryonjohn:[quoted image][quoted image]
incredible very good work .... I would like that I stay like this .. just with the brush ?? Do not you need anything else?
Quoted from Asanteiro:incredible very good work .... I would like that I stay like this .. just with the brush ?? Do not you need anything else?
Brush on the hatching.
Steel wool on the flat surfaces.
And since I had to take it apart to change the spring, I buffed the trigger which was black & rusty.
Now I can touch it without yearning for hand sanitizer.
I stumbled on a fantastic hi-fidelity action figure / model at Target the other day for $20. This thing moves at almost every joint imaginable -- even the hydraulic pistons "work".
By making him kneel, he tucks in quite nicely in the right ramp, atop the pop bumper. I haven't had time to secure him better -- right know he's just held in place by a part of his hip tucked under the ramp microswitch mount. He's already starting to shift, so I'll need to get on that.
Here it is on Amazon for $24. https://www.amazon.com/NECA-Classic-Terminator-Endoskeleton-Window/dp/B013SYTDT8/
20190531_202517 (resized).jpg20190531_202522 (resized).jpg
I replaced three connectors and header pins on my game J115, J120 and the Secondary plug on the right side of the board. All were hacked burnt. That got my pop bumpers lighting back up and got rid of the burning smell my game was putting off. Game is working great now!
20190606_221555 (resized).jpg20190606_221604 (resized).jpg20190606_221612 (resized).jpg20190606_230919 (resized).jpgSomeone really mishandled the front of this game. The side art and rest of the cabinet looks very good, but I couldn’t take looking at the wood tear out and angled aluminum so I ordered some 3 inch corner guard from Amazon and some boat lettering.
Whatcha think?
880E21A0-A1F6-4952-8431-7903937D1A5A (resized).jpegCan anyone tell me how far their loop kicker kicks the ball out? If you make a loop shot from the left side of the playfield, the ball will be locked and then kicked back out. I swear last time I played on in the wild it would kick the ball all the way back out that left loop. Mine kind seems to have a hard time and the ball only makes it into the lane section at the top center of the playfield and then goes down into the bumpers. It seems like it wants to shoot the ball out the left loop but either doesn't have enough power or something isn't aligned right.
Also any ideas why the shooter rod would stay out after it plunges the ball? It's not a coil locking on, the slightest vibration on the cabinet will get the plunger to retract back in. Do I need a new coil sleeve?
My T2 won't boot and I am having some trouble figuring out where to start. It turns on, everything lights up except the DMD, and you can hear the game go into attract mode through the speakers with the *thud thud* sound. However, you cannot start a game - something that I was told indicates that the machine is not booting up properly.
I checked all the display connectors in the head and none of them were burned or obviously broken. I didn't have a ton of time today, but I took my multimeter and measured the voltage of the J604 connector from the display driver board to the DMD. Every rail except for +5V was giving out crazy numbers. The +5V pin was seemingly totally unaffected and was stable at 4.98V during attract mode.
How should I continue to trace this issue further when I get a little more time this week? Should I check the voltage on the pins going to the display driver board from the power driver board? I feel like it has to be an issue with the display driver rather than the power driver since the rest of the game seems to come alive just fine. I checked the fuse panels and did not see any blown fuses. If there is anything I can take a picture of to help, please let me know, the extent of my repair work so far has been reflowing lamp sockets and resoldering bad joints on the stand up target banks.
Hello ... after two nights working on my T2 ... I show the results ..... thanks
EMBRYONJOHN
I followed your advice !!! I owe you one !!
Quoted from fatality83:Can anyone tell me how far their loop kicker kicks the ball out? If you make a loop shot from the left side of the playfield, the ball will be locked and then kicked back out. I swear last time I played on in the wild it would kick the ball all the way back out that left loop. Mine kind seems to have a hard time and the ball only makes it into the lane section at the top center of the playfield and then goes down into the bumpers. It seems like it wants to shoot the ball out the left loop but either doesn't have enough power or something isn't aligned right.
Also any ideas why the shooter rod would stay out after it plunges the ball? It's not a coil locking on, the slightest vibration on the cabinet will get the plunger to retract back in. Do I need a new coil sleeve?
I’m 99/100 times mine kicks it lightly so the ball ends up going through the lanes. Perhaps 1/100 times it may just barely make it back around - but due to gravity and not because it was rocketed back out.
Quoted from Asanteiro:Hello ... after two nights working on my T2 ... I show the results ..... thanks
EMBRYONJOHN
I followed your advice !!! I owe you one !![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow!!!
Your “before” gun almost looked like it was made out of aluminum with a ton of oxidation.
Now it’s sparkles like a new 800 series Terminator.
Great job...
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