The white plugs do not have the required specification and burn due to the high current flow of the GI.
If you want the Powerdriver to last permanently, you have to reduce the power of the lighting (LED), or change to the black connectors!

dscn5353jluec (resized).jpg

The other end of the connection is more important than the pins. Tin plated Phosphor Bronze type crimp on contacts increases the current carrying capacity (7A vs 4.5A for the tin plated). Also consider Trifuricon that contacts the pins on 3 sides instead of 1.

There are also MarKK contacts (and associated special housings) that contact the pins on all 4 sides that have the highest capacity (13A).

All these work with the same .156 pins.

So I'm having an intermittent issue that's getting on my nerves (and tragically robbed my wife of her highest score ever) ... sometimes during play, the white lights under the Hunter Killer ship (you know, the ones for ball launch skill shot and cannon targeting) drop out randomly. For example, we'll get the cannon loaded up, but no light(s) come on. 9 times out of 10 when it happens, it's usually during the cannon shot, but I have seen it a few times during initial ball launch as well. I disconnected / reseated the connectors on both the light board underneath, and in the backbox, but it's still happening. Of course, it doesn't happen consistently. Suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Mine was doing that same thing. I reflowed the solder joints on the light board for the connector and that fixed it.

Could also be a switch that is gapped too tight, qualifying the ball before it actually makes it to the playfield.

It's not acting like it's reacting with the ball -- it's simply not lighting up the lights. In other words, the sound still proceeds normally ("beeping" through each one for the skill shot, or the "whirrr" and the cannon as it rotates), and the ball launch via trigger still operates normally.

Ok, I was thinking this would probably be my next step. I'll try that when I get a chance (who knows when, my schedule is erratic) and will post back.

I’d just dremel it right up the coil and pull it from the bottom.

Rule of thumb is if the old one is coming out that hard, the new one will go in just as hard. This is a sign the coil was overheated, shrinking the core. Usually a sign the coil should be replaced.

To get that insert out, push a cylindrical tool (awl, small screw driver, etc) between the coil former and the sleeve. You will collapse (kink) or crack the sleeve, making it super easy to remove.

Nut driver works well

Hey guys, I have a T2 and am trying to install EL light strip on the wireforms. I am struggling to figure out where to start and where to end (as well as what double sided tape to you) as the instructions I got were pretty 'light' in that area. Has anyone done this that could lend their advice? I started a thread here so as not to jam this thread up.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t2-el-light-modneed-some-help#post-4870056

Many thanks!

Was the van in the film a SWAT van? I don't think so....

Can this be fixed? Its a Driver board for a T2. As far as I can tell its the original board for the machine. I have replaced it with a Rottendog, but would like to have this one fixed so I can put it back in if need be.

20190312_174758_resized (resized).jpg

20190312_174847_resized (resized).jpg

I’d give it a try. Especially if you have other machines. Make sure you replace that molex connector as I’m sure it’s probably fried too.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CKWMS-A-12742

I couldn't hope to have the skills to fix it myself. Ill have to do some checking around here in CO to see is someone can fix it.

That is an easy fix and a common problem on this driver board. New header pins and maybe some jumper wires to patch the burned traces.

This Power Drive could be fixed by a specialist without doubt.
A lot of them are in these bad conditions.

Can someone please shed some light on my software? Ver M-25...

I searched the web with no luck. Not sure if I should upgrade to L8 or not. The sound ROM is L3.

Thx,

Rob

IMG_7778 (resized).jpg

Bump... Anyone know anything about ver M-25?

I think it's a customized Game ROM.
L8 is the last official setup, but there's a L8.1 setup with deactivated attract mode "Boom Boom" and quicker overview of scores for tournament mode.

Have rejoined the club, here are some quick cleaning tips for T2

NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO

This is a joke right bro? Jesus.

I hope whoever posted this is joking... and that they clearly state as much so as to not confuse new players/owners who are looking for advice.

a joke? uh oh.....NOW you tell me!

Does anyone have a good color match for the speaker grilles?

Ha ha - classic!

Yep, for those that don't get the Aussie sense of humour, this was done as a bit of a light hearted joke during a pretty tragic event - its our way of dealing with things, have a laugh at ourselves when we can.

It was a machine that i restored nicely a few years ago, and spent 3 days underwater (up to the bottom of the DMD) in our massive North Queensland flood event a month ago (some are saying a 1 in 2000 year event). Its the only time i will ever get to hose a pinball off, so why not do it for a laugh!!!! I'm sure an extra minute of water after 3 days won't make any difference!

Surprisingly, the playfield is quite good. I'm going to give a fair crack at rebuilding this one when time permits.

Red color for speaker grill is RAL 3000.

Thanks for explaining Rob! I saw this clip pop up on YouTube a couple of times and was puzzled why you would do this. I like your sense of humour. Good luck with rebuilding it! Seems like a hell of a job. What will you do to dry it?

I'm hoping someone here can help me out with a part I just can't seem to find.

We recently got a T2 and am doing a complete teardown/rebuild. In doing so I found that I'm missing the small ball guide that's installed left of the metal ramp (see pic). I looked up the part and I believe it's part# 01-10159.

I can't seem to find one online. So, I'm hoping that maybe someone has a spare parts parts playfield that they can rob for me or point me in the right direction to find a replacement?

Thx,

Rob

IMG_8078 (resized).JPG

Yeah, that's what I need. Anyone have any leads?

Thx,

Rob

So, I was able to fabricate the piece using an old ramp protector I had lying around! Looks like it belongs!

Rob

IMG_8090 (resized).jpg

I'm also looking for a set of NOS slingshot plastics. The repro set I got off eBay are completely washed out!

Add placed here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-nos-terminator-2-slingshot-plastics

is any T2 owners out there can help, please let me know!

Thx,

Rob

IMG_8070 (resized).jpg

The cabinet is useless and falling apart. The playfield and cabinet were stripped and parts given a clean, things like plunger links were starting to rust so they will all need to be replaced. I am talking to a few guys and hoping that a reasonable playfield becomes available at the right price. While this playfield looks OK at this point in time, if I am going to restore it, I want to make sure its done well and there won't be issues down the track. Only problem is, budget is pretty lean at the moment!

Hang in there Rob..
started my playfield swap last week and all spares should be ready to sell next week or so.

I’m from Athens OH looking to buy a T2, willing to travel a few hours. Anybody selling or know anybody selling? Thanks

Champion mate! No rush

Just added the Apron and Translite from original T2 chrome version. I guess it’s matching now much better.

2D5FF22B-E574-44D6-9AF0-D1657A63A77A (resized).jpeg

69535084-30A0-40B8-9D8A-7040740CF7AD (resized).jpeg

7F948847-8CB0-4A0A-8539-E1BB442B136C (resized).jpeg

CA7F5CBB-102B-4861-9D33-44D1E1AA5054 (resized).jpeg

I think I have some loose wires somewhere as a few of the lights don't stay on all the time, but do when I wiggle the connector. So I should probably learn how to re-do the wiring now (I bought the T2 because I wanted to learn!). From what I gather, they're just molex connectors connecting to the light boards, right? Anyone have recommendations on what tool to buy and where to buy the actual molex connectors? At first, I assume I can just snip the current molex and crimp on a new one to see if that works. If not, then there may be a break in the wire itself, in which case I should trace continuity with a multimeter and then replace the wire itself with a 22ga wire? (I bought this awhile ago in preparation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R5CFBC8/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title )

Let me know if I'm on the right track - any suggestions are welcome.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=CF15612
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-IDC156

Well it’s been a fun half a decade...I’m out...I’m pretty sad..but nothing a HUO TWD can’t fix... ...keep nailin those Super Jackpots boys...!!!..............”I’ll BE BACK”..........Joey

I have the Chrome T-1000 mod from Brock if anybody is interested...it has a small chip out of the corner but still mounts fine...$25 shipped...Thank you..........Joey

3EE3521B-080D-43FB-BD93-61DBAE7DEAF9 (resized).jpeg

I'll take it if it's available - message me. Going to bed so will respond in the morning. Thanks.

I’m in! I see I have some reading to do...

2964E084-16EB-4413-A232-EA4F09FE2F94 (resized).jpeg