(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!


By spfxted

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by KevInBuffalo
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There are 7186 posts in this topic. You are on page 143 of 144.
#7101 48 days ago

The white plugs do not have the required specification and burn due to the high current flow of the GI.
If you want the Powerdriver to last permanently, you have to reduce the power of the lighting (LED), or change to the black connectors!

dscn5353jluec (resized).jpg

#7102 48 days ago

Doing both on this end (belt and suspenders)

#7103 47 days ago
Quoted from Averell:

The white plugs do not have the required specification and burn due to the high current flow of the GI.
If you want the Powerdriver to last permanently, you have to reduce the power of the lighting (LED), or change to the black connectors!
[quoted image]

The other end of the connection is more important than the pins. Tin plated Phosphor Bronze type crimp on contacts increases the current carrying capacity (7A vs 4.5A for the tin plated). Also consider Trifuricon that contacts the pins on 3 sides instead of 1.

There are also MarKK contacts (and associated special housings) that contact the pins on all 4 sides that have the highest capacity (13A).

All these work with the same .156 pins.

#7104 47 days ago

So I'm having an intermittent issue that's getting on my nerves (and tragically robbed my wife of her highest score ever) ... sometimes during play, the white lights under the Hunter Killer ship (you know, the ones for ball launch skill shot and cannon targeting) drop out randomly. For example, we'll get the cannon loaded up, but no light(s) come on. 9 times out of 10 when it happens, it's usually during the cannon shot, but I have seen it a few times during initial ball launch as well. I disconnected / reseated the connectors on both the light board underneath, and in the backbox, but it's still happening. Of course, it doesn't happen consistently. Suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

#7105 47 days ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

So I'm having an intermittent issue that's getting on my nerves (and tragically robbed my wife of her highest score ever) ... sometimes during play, the white lights under the Hunter Killer ship (you know, the ones for ball launch skill shot and cannon targeting) drop out randomly. For example, we'll get the cannon loaded up, but no light(s) come on. 9 times out of 10 when it happens, it's usually during the cannon shot, but I have seen it a few times during initial ball launch as well. I disconnected / reseated the connectors on both the light board underneath, and in the backbox, but it's still happening. Of course, it doesn't happen consistently. Suggestions?
Thanks in advance.

Mine was doing that same thing. I reflowed the solder joints on the light board for the connector and that fixed it.

#7106 47 days ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

So I'm having an intermittent issue that's getting on my nerves (and tragically robbed my wife of her highest score ever) ... sometimes during play, the white lights under the Hunter Killer ship (you know, the ones for ball launch skill shot and cannon targeting) drop out randomly. For example, we'll get the cannon loaded up, but no light(s) come on. 9 times out of 10 when it happens, it's usually during the cannon shot, but I have seen it a few times during initial ball launch as well. I disconnected / reseated the connectors on both the light board underneath, and in the backbox, but it's still happening. Of course, it doesn't happen consistently. Suggestions?
Thanks in advance.

Could also be a switch that is gapped too tight, qualifying the ball before it actually makes it to the playfield.

#7107 46 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Could also be a switch that is gapped too tight, qualifying the ball before it actually makes it to the playfield.

It's not acting like it's reacting with the ball -- it's simply not lighting up the lights. In other words, the sound still proceeds normally ("beeping" through each one for the skill shot, or the "whirrr" and the cannon as it rotates), and the ball launch via trigger still operates normally.

Quoted from Azfalconfixer:

Mine was doing that same thing. I reflowed the solder joints on the light board for the connector and that fixed it.

Ok, I was thinking this would probably be my next step. I'll try that when I get a chance (who knows when, my schedule is erratic) and will post back.

#7108 44 days ago

My flipper rebuild kit with new flippers came today (those that came with mine were shot and mismatched). So this def looks like it’s taking care of the problem.
My board is being worked on so no power but my left flipper was sticking and it’s really slamming back now

Question - started to put the right one back together Got the old stuff off. New swtich and end stop on. Grommet thru playfield all in. Just ready to put it all back together and then the old sleeve won’t come out. Ugh. It’s breaking off at the end. Last thing and I’m Dunn then this. Lol.

Any slick way to get that out? The left one going in was tight as well.

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#7109 44 days ago

I’d just dremel it right up the coil and pull it from the bottom.

#7110 44 days ago

Ah. Good idea. Didn’t know if I needed to replace the coil but I’ll try that. Thanks!

#7111 44 days ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

My flipper rebuild kit with new flippers came today (those that came with mine were shot and mismatched). So this def looks like it’s taking care of the problem.
My board is being worked on so no power but my left flipper was sticking and it’s really slamming back now
Question - started to put the right one back together Got the old stuff off. New swtich and end stop on. Grommet thru playfield all in. Just ready to put it all back together and then the old sleeve won’t come out. Ugh. It’s breaking off at the end. Last thing and I’m Dunn then this. Lol.
Any slick way to get that out? The left one going in was tight as well.
[quoted image]

Rule of thumb is if the old one is coming out that hard, the new one will go in just as hard. This is a sign the coil was overheated, shrinking the core. Usually a sign the coil should be replaced.

To get that insert out, push a cylindrical tool (awl, small screw driver, etc) between the coil former and the sleeve. You will collapse (kink) or crack the sleeve, making it super easy to remove.

#7112 44 days ago

Hope I can just get it out. It was working fine on the right so just wanted to do the full rebuild as I just got the machine. The left one was sticking a bit
I’ll try that this evening.

#7113 43 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

To get that insert out, push a cylindrical tool (awl, small screw driver, etc)

Nut driver works well

#7114 43 days ago

Omg! This is what was left. Virtually stuck all the way up the shaft But it’s out!

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#7115 43 days ago

Hey guys, I have a T2 and am trying to install EL light strip on the wireforms. I am struggling to figure out where to start and where to end (as well as what double sided tape to you) as the instructions I got were pretty 'light' in that area. Has anyone done this that could lend their advice? I started a thread here so as not to jam this thread up.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t2-el-light-modneed-some-help#post-4870056

Many thanks!

#7116 43 days ago

Ive seem that mod and wondered how it all worked and how to install it. (The photos makes it look easy ). I’ll be watching for any help you get Good luck!

#7117 38 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Loot crate looks WAY better. Only wish I had drilled my eye holes larger...might fix some day.
Original looks like a crappy halloween mask.
That one above looks like the t800 and jay leno had a baby, haha! What a chin!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Was the van in the film a SWAT van? I don't think so....

#7118 36 days ago

Can this be fixed? Its a Driver board for a T2. As far as I can tell its the original board for the machine. I have replaced it with a Rottendog, but would like to have this one fixed so I can put it back in if need be.

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#7119 36 days ago
Quoted from smoothbore19:

Can this be fixed? Its a Driver board for a T2. As far as I can tell its the original board for the machine. I have replaced it with a Rottendog, but would like to have this one fixed so I can put it back in if need be.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I’d give it a try. Especially if you have other machines. Make sure you replace that molex connector as I’m sure it’s probably fried too.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CKWMS-A-12742

#7120 36 days ago

I couldn't hope to have the skills to fix it myself. Ill have to do some checking around here in CO to see is someone can fix it.

#7121 36 days ago
Quoted from smoothbore19:

Can this be fixed? Its a Driver board for a T2. As far as I can tell its the original board for the machine. I have replaced it with a Rottendog, but would like to have this one fixed so I can put it back in if need be.
[quoted image][quoted image]

That is an easy fix and a common problem on this driver board. New header pins and maybe some jumper wires to patch the burned traces.

#7122 36 days ago

This Power Drive could be fixed by a specialist without doubt.
A lot of them are in these bad conditions.

#7123 35 days ago

Can someone please shed some light on my software? Ver M-25...

I searched the web with no luck. Not sure if I should upgrade to L8 or not. The sound ROM is L3.

Thx,

Rob

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#7124 33 days ago
Quoted from MrBellMan:

Can someone please shed some light on my software? Ver M-25...
I searched the web with no luck. Not sure if I should upgrade to L8 or not. The sound ROM is L3.
Thx,
Rob
[quoted image]

Bump... Anyone know anything about ver M-25?

#7125 32 days ago

I think it's a customized Game ROM.
L8 is the last official setup, but there's a L8.1 setup with deactivated attract mode "Boom Boom" and quicker overview of scores for tournament mode.

#7126 32 days ago

Have rejoined the club, here are some quick cleaning tips for T2

#7127 32 days ago

Does this cleaning method require you to unplug the game first? Or just leave it powered up to see if the bulbs are getting cleaned?

#7128 32 days ago
Quoted from robm:

Have rejoined the club, here are some quick cleaning tips for T2

NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO

This is a joke right bro? Jesus.

#7129 31 days ago
Quoted from robm:

Have rejoined the club, here are some quick cleaning tips for T2

I hope whoever posted this is joking... and that they clearly state as much so as to not confuse new players/owners who are looking for advice.

#7130 31 days ago

a joke? uh oh.....NOW you tell me!

#7131 30 days ago

Does anyone have a good color match for the speaker grilles?

#7132 30 days ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

Does this cleaning method require you to unplug the game first? Or just leave it powered up to see if the bulbs are getting cleaned?

Ha ha - classic!

Yep, for those that don't get the Aussie sense of humour, this was done as a bit of a light hearted joke during a pretty tragic event - its our way of dealing with things, have a laugh at ourselves when we can.

It was a machine that i restored nicely a few years ago, and spent 3 days underwater (up to the bottom of the DMD) in our massive North Queensland flood event a month ago (some are saying a 1 in 2000 year event). Its the only time i will ever get to hose a pinball off, so why not do it for a laugh!!!! I'm sure an extra minute of water after 3 days won't make any difference!

Surprisingly, the playfield is quite good. I'm going to give a fair crack at rebuilding this one when time permits.

#7133 30 days ago

Red color for speaker grill is RAL 3000.

#7134 30 days ago
Quoted from robm:

It was a machine that i restored nicely a few years ago, and spent 3 days underwater (up to the bottom of the DMD) in our massive North Queensland flood event a month ago (some are saying a 1 in 2000 year event). Its the only time i will ever get to hose a pinball off, so why not do it for a laugh!!!! I'm sure an extra minute of water after 3 days won't make any difference!

Thanks for explaining Rob! I saw this clip pop up on YouTube a couple of times and was puzzled why you would do this. I like your sense of humour. Good luck with rebuilding it! Seems like a hell of a job. What will you do to dry it?

#7135 29 days ago

I'm hoping someone here can help me out with a part I just can't seem to find.

We recently got a T2 and am doing a complete teardown/rebuild. In doing so I found that I'm missing the small ball guide that's installed left of the metal ramp (see pic). I looked up the part and I believe it's part# 01-10159.

I can't seem to find one online. So, I'm hoping that maybe someone has a spare parts parts playfield that they can rob for me or point me in the right direction to find a replacement?

Thx,

Rob

IMG_8078 (resized).JPG
#7136 29 days ago

I do not have it but here’s a photo of it I think?

72C1613B-F285-468C-8226-A82AE47ABCD6 (resized).png
#7137 29 days ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

I do not have it but here’s a photo of it I think?
[quoted image]

Yeah, that's what I need. Anyone have any leads?

Thx,

Rob

#7138 29 days ago

So, I was able to fabricate the piece using an old ramp protector I had lying around! Looks like it belongs!

Rob

IMG_8090 (resized).jpg
#7139 29 days ago

I'm also looking for a set of NOS slingshot plastics. The repro set I got off eBay are completely washed out!

Add placed here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-nos-terminator-2-slingshot-plastics

is any T2 owners out there can help, please let me know!

Thx,

Rob

IMG_8070 (resized).jpg
#7140 29 days ago
Quoted from pintibo:

Thanks for explaining Rob! I saw this clip pop up on YouTube a couple of times and was puzzled why you would do this. I like your sense of humour. Good luck with rebuilding it! Seems like a hell of a job. What will you do to dry it?

The cabinet is useless and falling apart. The playfield and cabinet were stripped and parts given a clean, things like plunger links were starting to rust so they will all need to be replaced. I am talking to a few guys and hoping that a reasonable playfield becomes available at the right price. While this playfield looks OK at this point in time, if I am going to restore it, I want to make sure its done well and there won't be issues down the track. Only problem is, budget is pretty lean at the moment!

#7141 29 days ago

Hang in there Rob..
started my playfield swap last week and all spares should be ready to sell next week or so.

#7142 29 days ago

I’m from Athens OH looking to buy a T2, willing to travel a few hours. Anybody selling or know anybody selling? Thanks

#7143 28 days ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Hang in there Rob..
started my playfield swap last week and all spares should be ready to sell next week or so.

Champion mate! No rush

#7144 28 days ago

Just added the Apron and Translite from original T2 chrome version. I guess it’s matching now much better.

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#7145 28 days ago

I think I have some loose wires somewhere as a few of the lights don't stay on all the time, but do when I wiggle the connector. So I should probably learn how to re-do the wiring now (I bought the T2 because I wanted to learn!). From what I gather, they're just molex connectors connecting to the light boards, right? Anyone have recommendations on what tool to buy and where to buy the actual molex connectors? At first, I assume I can just snip the current molex and crimp on a new one to see if that works. If not, then there may be a break in the wire itself, in which case I should trace continuity with a multimeter and then replace the wire itself with a 22ga wire? (I bought this awhile ago in preparation: amazon.com link » )

Let me know if I'm on the right track - any suggestions are welcome.

#7146 27 days ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

I think I have some loose wires somewhere as a few of the lights don't stay on all the time, but do when I wiggle the connector. So I should probably learn how to re-do the wiring now (I bought the T2 because I wanted to learn!). From what I gather, they're just molex connectors connecting to the light boards, right? Anyone have recommendations on what tool to buy and where to buy the actual molex connectors? At first, I assume I can just snip the current molex and crimp on a new one to see if that works. If not, then there may be a break in the wire itself, in which case I should trace continuity with a multimeter and then replace the wire itself with a 22ga wire? (I bought this awhile ago in preparation: amazon.com link » )
Let me know if I'm on the right track - any suggestions are welcome.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=CF15612
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-IDC156

#7147 21 days ago

Well it’s been a fun half a decade...I’m out...I’m pretty sad..but nothing a HUO TWD can’t fix... ...keep nailin those Super Jackpots boys...!!!..............”I’ll BE BACK”..........Joey

#7148 21 days ago

I have the Chrome T-1000 mod from Brock if anybody is interested...it has a small chip out of the corner but still mounts fine...$25 shipped...Thank you..........Joey

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#7149 21 days ago
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:

I have the Chrome T-1000 mod from Brock if anybody is interested...it has a small chip out of the corner but still mounts fine...$25 shipped...Thank you..........Joey
[quoted image]

I'll take it if it's available - message me. Going to bed so will respond in the morning. Thanks.

#7150 21 days ago

I’m in! I see I have some reading to do...

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