(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

11 years ago


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Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Manual_-_Update.pdf (PDF preview)
A2_Feature_Adjustments_(Update).pdf (PDF preview)
Terminator2_L8_4.pdf (PDF preview)
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There are 10,949 posts in this topic. You are on page 142 of 219.
#7051 5 years ago

thx

#7052 5 years ago

Almost ready to play!!!

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#7053 5 years ago

I completed my shop job including a little paint restoration over the weekend. New Titan rubbers throughout. The pin rewarded me with a new grand champion score after. Now on to the outer cabinet...

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#7054 5 years ago

Plays like new! I’m excited lol. Now to go print some price cards.

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#7055 5 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I completed my shop job including a little paint restoration over the weekend.

Did you clearcoat that or put mylar over? If not it will not last...

#7056 5 years ago

I am going to try a playfield protector.

#7057 5 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I am modding my T2 and am not going to use the pinbits hunter killer mod and ship on my machine. Would anyone like to have it? $60 shipped for the ship and mod. Pm me if you are interested.

That's a cool mod! I had it on my 2nd T2...

#7058 5 years ago

Anyone have a scan of the backboard decal from the playfield? Mine is roughed up on the right side.

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#7059 5 years ago

I'm having an issue with my T2's right flipper. I just soldered a new power cable into my game, as the cord it came with had the ground prong snipped off by whoever owned it previously. After re-connecting the service receptacle, the right flipper is now intermittently active during attract mode.

I made sure that the ground strip travelling around the inside of the cabinet was secured well and continuous for the entire length of its run on the right side of the cabinet. I also don't notice anything immediately wrong with the screw that provides the support for the ground strip directly under the flipper. Is there somewhere specific I should look for a problem with the grounding strip?

To the best of my knowledge, it seems like the ground is partially connected, as pressing the flipper button occasionally only causes a slight blip in the flipper. Some presses, it does nothing at all, like it should. Other presses, it's like you were still in the middle of the game. This only happens with the right flipper and not with the left, so I think I ruled out an issue with the ground solder inside the convenience receptacle where I put the new cord in.

#7060 5 years ago

What size screws and nuts hold on the T2 endoskull platic on top of the left ramp? Mine came zip tied on and I want to fix it. Are they nylon locknuts? Could not find this listed in the manual.

#7061 5 years ago

Does anyone have these sideblades installed:
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/t2
I would love to see an image of them in a machine

#7062 5 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

Does anyone have these sideblades installed:
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/t2
I would love to see an image of them in a machine

I have been tempted to get these as well. They look great but would love to see them also.

#7063 5 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

What size screws and nuts hold on the T2 endoskull platic on top of the left ramp? Mine came zip tied on and I want to fix it. Are they nylon locknuts? Could not find this listed in the manual.

Bump for ya. You’re always helpful with more advanced stuff and I wish I could return the easy favor but Doc has me on a 5 lb lifting limit at the moment, so, I can’t pull the glass to measure these. If someone doesn’t get back with you by Saturday I’ll have my dad pull the glass when he comes up.

#7064 5 years ago

This is the only picture I had that shows it from my shop out. It has a 6/32 machine screw screwed through the bottom of the plastic through the metal skull plate. Then the skull sits on top of the screws and a nylon nut attaches it to the plastic. Hope that helps.

Quoted from ypurchn:

Bump for ya. You’re always helpful with more advanced stuff and I wish I could return the easy favor but Doc has me on a 5 lb lifting limit at the moment, so, I can’t pull the glass to measure these. If someone doesn’t get back with you by Saturday I’ll have my dad pull the glass when he comes up.

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#7065 5 years ago
Quoted from algrande:

After many months it's finally DONE with a NOS cleared PF.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Damn dude ! That looks amazing! Love that translite!

#7066 5 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I have been tempted to get these as well. They look great but would love to see them also.

I'm about to order them...

#7067 5 years ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

I'm about to order them...

Please take picture and share here when installed

#7068 5 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Bump for ya. You’re always helpful with more advanced stuff and I wish I could return the easy favor but Doc has me on a 5 lb lifting limit at the moment, so, I can’t pull the glass to measure these. If someone doesn’t get back with you by Saturday I’ll have my dad pull the glass when he comes up.

Thank you!

Quoted from jmountjoy111:

This is the only picture I had that shows it from my shop out. It has a 6/32 machine screw screwed through the bottom of the plastic through the metal skull plate. Then the skull sits on top of the screws and a nylon nut attaches it to the plastic. Hope that helps.
[quoted image]

I am actually referring to the flat plastic at the top of the left ramp, sorry for the confusion.

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#7069 5 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Thank you!

I am actually referring to the flat plastic at the top of the left ramp, sorry for the confusion.
[quoted image]

Oh I see. It looked like some type of machine screw was supposed to be used, as the ramp appeared to be threaded for them, but mine had been replaced with some random screw and stripped them. I ended up using a sheet metal screw with a Phillips head to match the other screws in my game. Sorry I can’t help more

#7070 5 years ago

Anyone have the parts circled in red for sale?

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#7071 5 years ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

Oh I see. It looked like some type of machine screw was supposed to be used, as the ramp appeared to be threaded for them, but mine had been replaced with some random screw and stripped them. I ended up using a sheet metal screw with a Phillips head to match the other screws in my game. Sorry I can’t help more

Mine are held in by sheet metal screws as well.

#7072 5 years ago

Chrome trim. Yay or nay?

Also spent the day replacing the T800 head. I think it came out well.

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#7073 5 years ago

Where did you get that skull and ship? Which brand is it, I bought one but looks dull

#7074 5 years ago

I don't mind the trim actually. Did you add it to the lift trim too? How thick?

#7075 5 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Where did you get that skull and ship? Which brand is it, I bought one but looks dull

I got the skull off of ebay here.

ebay.com link: NEMESIS NOW NOW0949 LICENSED TERMINATOR 2 JUDGEMENT DAY T 800 HEAD BOX

The ship here.

ebay.com link: NECA CINEMACHINES DIE CAST TERMINATOR 2 HUNTER KILLER AIR SHIP NEW SEALED

The ship is dull, so you can add chrome highlights with a chrome paint pen. The best one on the market is this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Molotow-ONE4ALL-Acrylic-Marker-703-102/dp/B01E7EG3NM/ref=sr_1_4

Quoted from allsportdvd:

I don't mind the trim actually. Did you add it to the lift trim too? How thick?

Yes, I added it to the lift trim. It is automotive trim from ebay. Easy to cut with scissors and you get a lot of it if you make a mistake.

ebay.com link: NEW 20MM x 15M Chrome Styling Moulding Trim Strip For Cars Vans Vehicles 49FT

#7076 5 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I got the skull off of ebay here

Damn, that skull is AWESOME. Did you have any issues making it fit? Have to trim it in the back? Cut it open to get eyes in there?

I got the loot crate skull but hadn't gotten around to installing it yet; I might want to get this one instead.

#7077 5 years ago

A quick question for T2 owner running the L8 version of the game ROM. Is there an option in the standard adjustments for the speed of a game restart? I know the option exists in newer WPC games, and I am wondering if they included it in the last ROM update for T2. My Google-fu is failing me today, and I can't seem to find the change logs for the different versions of the T2 roms.

#7078 5 years ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Damn, that skull is AWESOME. Did you have any issues making it fit? Have to trim it in the back? Cut it open to get eyes in there?
I got the loot crate skull but hadn't gotten around to installing it yet; I might want to get this one instead.

I also have the loot crate skull and was disappointed with the way it looked. Yes, you have to modify the skull quite a bit to make it fit. You have to drill out the eyes to put led's in. I had to cut out the back of the skull for the VUK to fit. Also, I had to move the positioning of the mounting bracket forward on the plastics and redrill holes. I epoxied the bracket to hold the eye led's inside the skull. But with a good amount of patients and a dremel tool, anyone can do it.

#7079 5 years ago

Loot crate looks WAY better. Only wish I had drilled my eye holes larger...might fix some day.

Original looks like a crappy halloween mask.

That one above looks like the t800 and jay leno had a baby, haha! What a chin!

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#7080 5 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Thank you!

I am actually referring to the flat plastic at the top of the left ramp, sorry for the confusion.
[quoted image]

I’m kinda in the same boat. Pretty sure what I’ve got isn’t original as it’s normally Phillips head and not 1/4” head screws. 1/2” in length

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#7081 5 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Loot crate looks WAY better. Only wish I had drilled my eye holes larger...might fix some day.
Original looks like a crappy halloween mask.
That one above looks like the t800 and jay leno had a baby, haha! What a chin!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I agree that the loot crate looks way better than the original, but I think it's clear which looks more like the movie prop. Maybe I didn't take a good pic. Here is a side by side comparison. The loot crate is smaller and would be easier to mount for sure. I like the chrome and overall shape of the skull better with the one I chose. But both are better than the original.

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#7082 5 years ago

Who made that? Is it officially licensed? I just dont care for it, but to each their own. The chin juts out WAY too far and the cheeks look like theyre had some work done...lol.

All good, you like it, your game.

schwarzeneggerreplicaendoskull_4_X1 (resized).jpgschwarzeneggerreplicaendoskull_4_X1 (resized).jpg

Edit: Found it. How do they get away with this? Who approves these from the licensee? Wow.

https://www.nemesisnow.com/t-800-terminator-head-23cm/

#7083 5 years ago

I agree with the skull from the link is hideous. But that is not the one I have. Mine is a licensed product although that doesn’t say much either. I like the loot crate version, but the fact that it is smaller and not chromed is what is holding it back. The version I have is this one.

https://www.nemesisnow.com/t-800-terminator-box-18cm/

#7084 5 years ago

All my lights on my T2 work except the flashers under the ship. I have tried everything multiple lights Led/incodesent, flashers and regular. It is a T10 end and their is 2 of them. Got everything to light up when testing except these. Under flashers in test mode I can’t get T-25 to go and assume this is it. All wires good and sordered any ideas how to fix this or were to start?
All other lights work see pictures they are under ship in crack. Original bulbs were larger.

#7085 5 years ago
Quoted from Ortarf:

All my lights on my T2 work except the flashers under the ship. I have tried everything multiple lights Led/incodesent, flashers and regular. It is a T10 end and their is 2 of them. Got everything to light up when testing except these. Under flashers in test mode I can’t get T-25 to go and assume this is it. All wires good and sordered any ideas how to fix this or were to start?
All other lights work see pictures they are under ship in crack. Original bulbs were larger.

Not sure what you mean by the flasher is a T10 end. They should either be #89 or #906 bulbs. First, make sure you have the correct bulb installed. These are 13V bulbs. Lower voltage bulbs will burn out so fast you may not even see a flash.

If you are sure you have the right bulb, you can test your wiring by using a piece of wire to quickly ground the tab on the driver transistor. I can't really tell which area you are referring to but the 2 closest to that spot are the Left Lock Flashlamp (solenoid 25) and Targets Flashlamps (solenoid 20).

Put one end of the wire on ground and quickly tap the other end on the tab of the driver transsitor. DO NOT hold it on the tab or you will burn out the bulbs. Solenoid 20 is Q36 and Solenoid 25 is Q26. Both on the driver board.

#7086 5 years ago

All my lights on my T2 work except the flashers under the ship. I have tried everything multiple lights Led/incodesent, flashers and regular. It is a T10 end and their is 2 of them. Got everything to light up when testing except these. Under flashers in test mode I can’t get T-25 to go and assume this is it. All wires good and sordered any ideas how to fix this or were to start?
All other lights work see pictures they are under ship in crack.

Are you referring to T10 being the lamp base? I believe the area uses 906 lamps

#7087 5 years ago

I had a day off so I decided to add a mini diorama to the apron. Thanks to CraZyMuffin with helping me with the tv monitor.

#7088 5 years ago

I just took the cardboard sleeve off of my T2 Blu-ray and made it into an apron card. Took me 10 minutes. I think it came out great!

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#7089 5 years ago

Hey I recently purchased a T2 and I'm having issues with the skull lock. It only sticks in the whole if you hit it a certain way, was just wondering if anyone else experienced this problem?

#7090 5 years ago
Quoted from Barndonn:

Hey I recently purchased a T2 and I'm having issues with the skull lock. It only sticks in the whole if you hit it a certain way, was just wondering if anyone else experienced this problem?

The skull lock has a drop target that you must hit first to drop it, allowing the next shot to put it into the vuk. If the ball is getting rejected out of the vuk then check to see if the wire gate that prevents the ball from coming back out is working properly. It may be sticking or even missing. Sometimes my ball will travel so fast into the vuk, it kicks back out before the gate can come down. This happens maybe 1 out of 20 shots for me.

Here is a pic of the gate I am talking about.

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#7091 5 years ago
Quoted from Barndonn:

Hey I recently purchased a T2 and I'm having issues with the skull lock. It only sticks in the whole if you hit it a certain way, was just wondering if anyone else experienced this problem?

There is either an obstruction or the VUK assembly is most likely the issue. Check to make sure that the Ball Popper Cap is properly attached to the VUK plunger rod with the dowel pin. If it is loose or sticking too high up, the ball will collide with it.

Screen Shot 2019-02-12 at 9.47.26 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2019-02-12 at 9.47.26 AM (resized).png
#7092 5 years ago

My drop target and lock works perfectly, but it doesn't say "Lock sequence initiated" when I hit the drop target.

1 week later
#7093 5 years ago

I love customising some of my later model games. I went Chrome Edition with my Terminator 2. I designed and made up a matching speaker panel for the decals I used and a friend is getting me to make one. If anyone else wants one shoot me a pm. I'm catching up with everyone who wants one of these or my Getaway, BSD,Swords of fury and Bride of pinbot. It's a hassle getting it all done so I will get one for anyone as long as it is ordered and prepaid in the next 2 days as I am doing one big lot with my printer guy.. cheers! It is the plastic speaker panel only - lighting etc is up to you.

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#7094 5 years ago

In the process of restoring a T2 and trying to figure out where this connector goes and what it looks like.

Can someone post me a picture of this connector not cut? There is some black connector on the right of the photo I am not sure about as well.

Thanks
2019-02-24 09.36.00 (resized).jpg2019-02-24 09.36.00 (resized).jpg

#7095 5 years ago

Also looking for a.picture of this connector coming from the displays on the backbox panel. Someone hack this together and I want to fix it.

20190224_183608 (resized).jpg20190224_183608 (resized).jpg20190224_183543 (resized).jpg20190224_183543 (resized).jpg
#7096 5 years ago

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

Quoted from jjoravec:

In the process of restoring a T2 and trying to figure out where this connector goes and what it looks like.
Can someone post me a picture of this connector not cut? There is some black connector on the right of the photo I am not sure about as well.
Thanks
[quoted image]

WPCJ115 (resized).jpgWPCJ115 (resized).jpg

#7097 5 years ago

Thanks,

Is there a difference between the yellow striped wires, how do I know which on goes where.

#7098 5 years ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Thanks,
Is there a difference between the yellow striped wires, how do I know which on goes where.

All the yellow wires are the same and all the yellow w/white are the same. There are multiple wires of each color running back to the transformer to carry the load.

#7099 5 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

All the yellow wires are the same and all the yellow w/white are the same. There are multiple wires of each color running back to the transformer to carry the load.

Got it, thanks

#7100 5 years ago

Of course this is what my J115 looked like when I brought mine home (still not complaining Love this game!)

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