I have one in similar condition that I'm looking to sell. If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay?

J115 board side and cable side have been replaced.
J120 board side and cable side have been replaced.
J121 looks good
Fuses are good

Ok electrical is not my strong suit on these.

I get 7.5vac on both sides of the GI bulbs if I go to ground but no light.

Noticed that pins 1&2 are soldered together on J120. Don't know if that effects anything?

Anyone have any spare.playfield ball guides?

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You need to measure AC from each leg of the AC source, not ground. So for GI circuits, set your meter to AC and put a probe on each side of the GI bulb socket (solder lugs).

J120 Pins 1 and 2 should not be soldered together and is the most likely cause for the backboard lights being out. You need to remove that short and make sure J120 and J121 are wired correctly. Having those 2 pins shorted could have burned out the driver Triacs for those GI strings.

Made a little progress. I disconnected pins 1 and 2 on J120. Put a mirror to see behind the driver board and saw jumper wires. I had no continuity from J115 to Q18 and Q10. Somebody jumpered Q18 on the wrong side. I changed that and now the upper lights work. Q10 didn't have a jumper so I installed one but then all the lights went real dim. So I disconnected it figuring there's some sort of short. I'll look more into that today. Also still don't have any back box flashers.

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Congrats on getting your T2. You are making some great progress already.

After many months it's finally DONE with a NOS cleared PF.

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- Ok so I got all the back box GI lights working.

- The back box flashers mostly was burned out bulbs. Got most of them working.

- Still have an issue with one flasher blub in the back box and playfield that stay on all the time. They come on as soon as the machine is turned on. Going through the schematic it's transistor's Q34 and Q33. Ohm'd them out and they seem to check good (they check the same as the rest around them). Diodes and resisters seem to check ok. Nothing looks burned or that it got hot. U3 IC looks like it has been replaced. Ohm'd it out the best I could and seems to be ok.

Not sure where to look from here?

For now I've removed these two bulbs.

T2 Issue.pdf

Quick question. When I get Special in the Database, I'm getting 100 Million Points (plus 2 replays). This doesn't seem right. Anyone know how to remedy this?

Use a logic probe to look for a stuck bit into or out of U3. If it is truly stuck, you might be able to see it with a meter if you don't have a logic probe.

You should see 5V when OFF and 0V when on.

I don't have a logic probe. I'll get one and figure out how to use it. I measured voltage the pin 9 on U3 and there is 5v. Not sure if that's good or bad?

5V is what I would expect to see there when the circuit was off. This implies U3 is working. I would replace the pre-driver and driver transistors for that circuit. Even though they tested similar to those around them, sometimes the bias resistors in the circuitry around them masks a bad part. This is especially true for the pre-driver.

If you want to wait for the logic probe, we can confirm it is the transistor(s).

Replaced two transistors (Q33 and Q34) now all the flashers work.

Thanks for the help!!

Awesome! Congrats on the fix!

Now that I've gotten to play this a few times I notice the sound is scratchy from the small speakers.

What could cause this? Speakers, caps or ?

I’m going through my T2 and I have a broken part I cannot seem to locate anywhere. It is the frame and eyelet for the relay on the drop target assembly. Does anyone have one? Or know a source that might. I can probably rig the old part up just to make it playable. But I don’t want to

Here is a pic of what I need

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Oh yeah thought I’d share the progress. Fully disassembled and cleaned. Waiting on cliffy’s to arrive and to find that frame and eyelet.

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Holy Shit...!!!...and I was proud of myself when I changed my coil stops... ...............Joey

Prefer the white, only because that’s what I remember on the original that I played. Williams sometimes changed rubber and flipper colours depending on what they had in stock at the time. So some people will recall slightly different colour combos. Call me nostalgic, I will always pay more for a machine that is original. It’s purely subjective and personal preference.

I've decided to go with white, as that's what the manual calls for.

I was thinking about replacing my playfield with a new one... After seeing these pictures, I'm glad I didn't! I'm with Breaking_Dad -- I was super proud when I rebuilt a flipper on T2... :/ What you're doing looks way too intimidating.

I enjoy completely tearing one down. When I finish it’s like playing the game when it was brand new. I’ll never get my money back for all the time but that is why it’s a hobby and not a job.

You could conquer it btw. You just have to take a ton of pics

Hey. I just joined the club.. allot of work ahead. What we be the best solution (aside from new one ) on getting the shooter gun looking good.. sand and paint ?

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Spaz Stix mirror chrome paint. You can get it on Amazon. Make sure to buy the black undercoat too. The key to getting a chrome finish, is ONE coat of the chrome on top of the black undercoat. The more coats you apply, the more you lose the chrome look.

That's the cheapest solution. The best solution is to take it to a chrome plating shop.

Thanks! What grit is it best to leave the metal sanded to?

A-14913 Nearly impossible to find, but I've got a NOS part tucked away. I'll PM you.

I went with this guy, they did an excellent job

http://www.pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts/terminator-2-t2-gun

Thanks. Looks like he does good stuff
I was trying to avoid buying. New one.
Easy thing to. Switch out when I get finished if my gun still looks
Like crap

I wouldn’t worry about it right now. It’s outside of the PF so you’re going to get about $0.10 on the $1 for any money you spend IMO. If it’s “bolted to the floor” you have plenty of time to fix it.

Have many of you changed the leg brackets to the "new style" on your T2? Are there only benefits by doing it?

I changed them in my game. The only one you can’t chanhe without some modification is the front right something is in the way. Feels much more secure to me than the skinny bracket with two screws in them

Hey guys,

My shooter gun only operates to launch the ball. It doesn't work when the ball is in the canon. What should I look for?

Thanks for any advice.

It’s definitely one of my all time favorite themes too .. I think it’s one of the most recognized games by the casual fan
Guess when you make 15k of them that helps. Kinda sad to think we will never see 15k of any new pinball machine again...odds are but anything possible

1. Check the microswitch in the canon. It tells the machine that a ball is present.
2. Under the playfield, check the black wheel with notch under the canon. Make sure the micro switch is adjusted correctly to allow the ball to fire when the canon has passed the ramp. Also check that micro switch.
Doesn’t seem like a fuse if it’s firiing, more likely one of the micro switches or even possibly the gun trigger switch

Underneath the cannon (bottom side of the playfield), there's a cam and a switch (with a roller on the leaf) that rides along the edge of the cam as the cannon rotates. The cam has a "notch" that this roller drops into, as the cam rotates. The cannon can only fire when this switch is open, i.e., during the time the roller drops into the notch. Check the position of the switch, and that you hear the switch 'click' open as it drops into the notch (it should open almost immediately as it starts down the slope of the notch). On mine, the leaf had bent a little bit so the switch wasn't 'opening' until it was at the very bottom of the notch, which equates to having a very limited window when the cannon would actually fire.

I have talked good about Buthamburgs products many times. Today I found a decal produced by PinballPt that I bought for my T2 some time ago. I took a picture where they are side by side and I hope you can see my point. I have bought from pinball.center and PinballPT and both does not have same deep black as Buthamburg. Also there’s are not sharp at all! Hope the picture speaks for it self.
I am really happy about installing he’s decals they look and feel like the real deal!
Just want you to know before they go out of stock.

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Here’s a picture Buthamburg it installed close up.

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[quote]Today I found a decal produced by PinballPt that I bought for my T2 some time ago. [/quote]
Where to buy? I dont see it at https://pinballpt.com

I bought a full cabinet decal set from PinballPT and some inner decals. I sold the cabinet set when I saw that I could get a better product. I kept the inner decals so that’s what I am comparing with on the photo. But looking at the quality I might just put them in the trash.
It’s some time ago I bought them. I am not sure if they where listed back then or if I asked via email (because of license issues) but bought them from them.

Purchase link?

Ok this might be a dumb question. My flippers still have power when the ball drains. Is it supposed to be that way on T2. Non of my other pins do this. I have no tec alerts and no blown fuses that I can find. V/R Shawn

Bathamburg’s decals are the best around his fluorescent colors are dead on for the originals.

Congrats!! TS is my next purchase. One of my all time favorites!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1145-buthamburg/01593-terminator-2-cabinet-decal-set-

Are people using LED flashers for this game? If, what are you using? What brand? Colored?
Please share your experience - will be a great help for me I am very much in doubt..