Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!


By spfxted

6 years ago



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  • 7,051 posts
  • 506 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by DropTarget
  • Topic is favorited by 184 Pinsiders

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There are 7051 posts in this topic. You are on page 140 of 142.
#6951 21 days ago
Quoted from Azfalconfixer:

Picked a semi rough T2 last night. 5 hour drive each direction. Of course when I talked to him it was in perfect condition and needed nothing. I had a feeling it was going to be rough when I asked him the condition of the batteries and he said what batteries? So it needs some TLC and lots of cleaning.
Hunter ship broke
Skull broke
Two pop bumpers don't work
Back box lights don't work - What should a look at???
[quoted image]

I have one in similar condition that I'm looking to sell. If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay?

#6952 21 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Congrats and welcome to the club!
For the GI - check F109 and F110. Check driver board J120 and J121 for burned connectors. Very common on this title. If there are signs of heat, replace the header pins on the board and the IDC connector with a molex connector with trifuricon pins.

J115 board side and cable side have been replaced.
J120 board side and cable side have been replaced.
J121 looks good
Fuses are good

Ok electrical is not my strong suit on these.

I get 7.5vac on both sides of the GI bulbs if I go to ground but no light.

Noticed that pins 1&2 are soldered together on J120. Don't know if that effects anything?

#6953 21 days ago

Anyone have any spare.playfield ball guides?

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#6954 20 days ago
Quoted from Azfalconfixer:

J115 board side and cable side have been replaced.
J120 board side and cable side have been replaced.
J121 looks good
Fuses are good
Ok electrical is not my strong suit on these.
I get 7.5vac on both sides of the GI bulbs if I go to ground but no light.
Noticed that pins 1&2 are soldered together on J120. Don't know if that effects anything?

You need to measure AC from each leg of the AC source, not ground. So for GI circuits, set your meter to AC and put a probe on each side of the GI bulb socket (solder lugs).

J120 Pins 1 and 2 should not be soldered together and is the most likely cause for the backboard lights being out. You need to remove that short and make sure J120 and J121 are wired correctly. Having those 2 pins shorted could have burned out the driver Triacs for those GI strings.

#6955 20 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

You need to measure AC from each leg of the AC source, not ground. So for GI circuits, set your meter to AC and put a probe on each side of the GI bulb socket (solder lugs).
J120 Pins 1 and 2 should not be soldered together and is the most likely cause for the backboard lights being out. You need to remove that short and make sure J120 and J121 are wired correctly. Having those 2 pins shorted could have burned out the driver Triacs for those GI strings.

Made a little progress. I disconnected pins 1 and 2 on J120. Put a mirror to see behind the driver board and saw jumper wires. I had no continuity from J115 to Q18 and Q10. Somebody jumpered Q18 on the wrong side. I changed that and now the upper lights work. Q10 didn't have a jumper so I installed one but then all the lights went real dim. So I disconnected it figuring there's some sort of short. I'll look more into that today. Also still don't have any back box flashers.

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#6956 20 days ago

Congrats on getting your T2. You are making some great progress already.

#6957 19 days ago

After many months it's finally DONE with a NOS cleared PF.

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#6958 19 days ago
Quoted from Azfalconfixer:

Made a little progress. I disconnected pins 1 and 2 on J120. Put a mirror to see behind the driver board and saw jumper wires. I had no continuity from J115 to Q18 and Q10. Somebody jumpered Q18 on the wrong side. I changed that and now the upper lights work. Q10 didn't have a jumper so I installed one but then all the lights went real dim. So I disconnected it figuring there's some sort of short. I'll look more into that today. Also still don't have any back box flashers.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

- Ok so I got all the back box GI lights working.

- The back box flashers mostly was burned out bulbs. Got most of them working.

- Still have an issue with one flasher blub in the back box and playfield that stay on all the time. They come on as soon as the machine is turned on. Going through the schematic it's transistor's Q34 and Q33. Ohm'd them out and they seem to check good (they check the same as the rest around them). Diodes and resisters seem to check ok. Nothing looks burned or that it got hot. U3 IC looks like it has been replaced. Ohm'd it out the best I could and seems to be ok.

Not sure where to look from here?

For now I've removed these two bulbs.

T2 Issue.pdf
#6959 19 days ago

Quick question. When I get Special in the Database, I'm getting 100 Million Points (plus 2 replays). This doesn't seem right. Anyone know how to remedy this?

#6960 19 days ago
Quoted from Azfalconfixer:

- Ok so I got all the back box GI lights working.
- The back box flashers mostly was burned out bulbs. Got most of them working.
- Still have an issue with one flasher blub in the back box and playfield that stay on all the time. They come on as soon as the machine is turned on. Going through the schematic it's transistor's Q34 and Q33. Ohm'd them out and they seem to check good (they check the same as the rest around them). Diodes and resisters seem to check ok. Nothing looks burned or that it got hot. U3 IC looks like it has been replaced. Ohm'd it out the best I could and seems to be ok.
Not sure where to look from here?
For now I've removed these two bulbs.[quoted image]

Use a logic probe to look for a stuck bit into or out of U3. If it is truly stuck, you might be able to see it with a meter if you don't have a logic probe.

You should see 5V when OFF and 0V when on.

#6961 19 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Use a logic probe to look for a stuck bit into or out of U3. If it is truly stuck, you might be able to see it with a meter if you don't have a logic probe.
You should see 5V when OFF and 0V when on.

I don't have a logic probe. I'll get one and figure out how to use it. I measured voltage the pin 9 on U3 and there is 5v. Not sure if that's good or bad?

#6962 18 days ago
Quoted from Azfalconfixer:

I don't have a logic probe. I'll get one and figure out how to use it. I measured voltage the pin 9 on U3 and there is 5v. Not sure if that's good or bad?

5V is what I would expect to see there when the circuit was off. This implies U3 is working. I would replace the pre-driver and driver transistors for that circuit. Even though they tested similar to those around them, sometimes the bias resistors in the circuitry around them masks a bad part. This is especially true for the pre-driver.

If you want to wait for the logic probe, we can confirm it is the transistor(s).

#6963 17 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

5V is what I would expect to see there when the circuit was off. This implies U3 is working. I would replace the pre-driver and driver transistors for that circuit. Even though they tested similar to those around them, sometimes the bias transistors in the circuitry around them masks a bad part. This is especially true for the pre-driver.
If you want to wait for the logic probe, we can confirm it is the transistor(s).

Replaced two transistors (Q33 and Q34) now all the flashers work.

Thanks for the help!!

#6964 17 days ago
Quoted from Azfalconfixer:

Replaced two transistors (Q33 and Q34) now all the flashers work.
Thanks for the help!!

Awesome! Congrats on the fix!

#6965 17 days ago

Damn you guys are good!!

#6966 16 days ago

Now that I've gotten to play this a few times I notice the sound is scratchy from the small speakers.

What could cause this? Speakers, caps or ?

#6967 16 days ago

I’m going through my T2 and I have a broken part I cannot seem to locate anywhere. It is the frame and eyelet for the relay on the drop target assembly. Does anyone have one? Or know a source that might. I can probably rig the old part up just to make it playable. But I don’t want to

Here is a pic of what I need

329D9CFD-4EB7-4ABE-8743-0E89379830F2 (resized).jpeg
#6968 16 days ago

Oh yeah thought I’d share the progress. Fully disassembled and cleaned. Waiting on cliffy’s to arrive and to find that frame and eyelet.

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#6969 16 days ago

Holy Shit...!!!...and I was proud of myself when I changed my coil stops... ...............Joey

#6970 14 days ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

soooo,
I'm putting on new rubber, what's the consensus, Black or white?

Prefer the white, only because that’s what I remember on the original that I played. Williams sometimes changed rubber and flipper colours depending on what they had in stock at the time. So some people will recall slightly different colour combos. Call me nostalgic, I will always pay more for a machine that is original. It’s purely subjective and personal preference.

#6971 14 days ago

I've decided to go with white, as that's what the manual calls for.

#6972 13 days ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

Oh yeah thought I’d share the progress. Fully disassembled and cleaned. Waiting on cliffy’s to arrive and to find that frame and eyelet.

I was thinking about replacing my playfield with a new one... After seeing these pictures, I'm glad I didn't! I'm with breaking_dad -- I was super proud when I rebuilt a flipper on T2... :/ What you're doing looks way too intimidating.

#6973 13 days ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

I was thinking about replacing my playfield with a new one... After seeing these pictures, I'm glad I didn't! I'm with breaking_dad -- I was super proud when I rebuilt a flipper on T2... :/ What you're doing looks way too intimidating.

I enjoy completely tearing one down. When I finish it’s like playing the game when it was brand new. I’ll never get my money back for all the time but that is why it’s a hobby and not a job.

You could conquer it btw. You just have to take a ton of pics

#6974 13 days ago

Hey. I just joined the club.. allot of work ahead. What we be the best solution (aside from new one ) on getting the shooter gun looking good.. sand and paint ?

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#6975 13 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

Hey. I just joined the club.. allot of work ahead. What we be the best solution (aside from new one ) on getting the shooter gun looking good.. sand and paint ?[quoted image]

Spaz Stix mirror chrome paint. You can get it on Amazon. Make sure to buy the black undercoat too. The key to getting a chrome finish, is ONE coat of the chrome on top of the black undercoat. The more coats you apply, the more you lose the chrome look.

That's the cheapest solution. The best solution is to take it to a chrome plating shop.

#6976 13 days ago

Thanks! What grit is it best to leave the metal sanded to?

#6977 13 days ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

I’m going through my T2 and I have a broken part I cannot seem to locate anywhere. It is the frame and eyelet for the relay on the drop target assembly. Does anyone have one? Or know a source that might. I can probably rig the old part up just to make it playable. But I don’t want to
Here is a pic of what I need [quoted image]

A-14913 Nearly impossible to find, but I've got a NOS part tucked away. I'll PM you.

#6978 13 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

Hey. I just joined the club.. allot of work ahead. What we be the best solution (aside from new one ) on getting the shooter gun looking good.. sand and paint ?[quoted image]

I went with this guy, they did an excellent job

http://www.pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts/terminator-2-t2-gun

#6979 12 days ago

Thanks. Looks like he does good stuff
I was trying to avoid buying. New one.
Easy thing to. Switch out when I get finished if my gun still looks
Like crap

#6980 12 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

Thanks. Looks like he does good stuff
I was trying to avoid buying. New one.
Easy thing to. Switch out when I get finished if my gun still looks
Like crap

I wouldn’t worry about it right now. It’s outside of the PF so you’re going to get about $0.10 on the $1 for any money you spend IMO. If it’s “bolted to the floor” you have plenty of time to fix it.

#6981 11 days ago

Have many of you changed the leg brackets to the "new style" on your T2? Are there only benefits by doing it?

#6982 11 days ago
Quoted from tezting:

Have many of you changed the leg brackets to the "new style" on your T2? Are there only benefits by doing it?

I changed them in my game. The only one you can’t chanhe without some modification is the front right something is in the way. Feels much more secure to me than the skinny bracket with two screws in them

#6983 10 days ago

Hey guys,

My shooter gun only operates to launch the ball. It doesn't work when the ball is in the canon. What should I look for?

Thanks for any advice.

#6984 10 days ago

Hello all,

I have been wanting a T2 for more than 20 years and I am so happy to say that I am now a proud owner of one. One of my most favorite themes for a pin.

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#6985 10 days ago

It’s definitely one of my all time favorite themes too .. I think it’s one of the most recognized games by the casual fan
Guess when you make 15k of them that helps. Kinda sad to think we will never see 15k of any new pinball machine again...odds are but anything possible

#6986 10 days ago
Quoted from grimholtz:

Hey guys,
My shooter gun only operates to launch the ball. It doesn't work when the ball is in the canon. What should I look for?
Thanks for any advice.

1. Check the microswitch in the canon. It tells the machine that a ball is present.
2. Under the playfield, check the black wheel with notch under the canon. Make sure the micro switch is adjusted correctly to allow the ball to fire when the canon has passed the ramp. Also check that micro switch.
Doesn’t seem like a fuse if it’s firiing, more likely one of the micro switches or even possibly the gun trigger switch

#6987 10 days ago
Quoted from grimholtz:

Hey guys,
My shooter gun only operates to launch the ball. It doesn't work when the ball is in the canon. What should I look for?
Thanks for any advice.

Underneath the cannon (bottom side of the playfield), there's a cam and a switch (with a roller on the leaf) that rides along the edge of the cam as the cannon rotates. The cam has a "notch" that this roller drops into, as the cam rotates. The cannon can only fire when this switch is open, i.e., during the time the roller drops into the notch. Check the position of the switch, and that you hear the switch 'click' open as it drops into the notch (it should open almost immediately as it starts down the slope of the notch). On mine, the leaf had bent a little bit so the switch wasn't 'opening' until it was at the very bottom of the notch, which equates to having a very limited window when the cannon would actually fire.

#6988 10 days ago

I have talked good about Buthamburgs products many times. Today I found a decal produced by PinballPt that I bought for my T2 some time ago. I took a picture where they are side by side and I hope you can see my point. I have bought from pinball.center and PinballPT and both does not have same deep black as Buthamburg. Also there’s are not sharp at all! Hope the picture speaks for it self.
I am really happy about installing he’s decals they look and feel like the real deal!
Just want you to know before they go out of stock.

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#6989 10 days ago

Here’s a picture Buthamburg it installed close up.

4BEB6643-E5ED-4F35-8CC0-971E9FE17C8D (resized).jpeg

#6990 10 days ago

[quote]Today I found a decal produced by PinballPt that I bought for my T2 some time ago. [/quote]
Where to buy? I dont see it at https://pinballpt.com

#6991 10 days ago
Quoted from grimholtz:

[quote]Today I found a decal produced by PinballPt that I bought for my T2 some time ago. [/quote]
Where to buy? I dont see it at https://pinballpt.com

I bought a full cabinet decal set from PinballPT and some inner decals. I sold the cabinet set when I saw that I could get a better product. I kept the inner decals so that’s what I am comparing with on the photo. But looking at the quality I might just put them in the trash.
It’s some time ago I bought them. I am not sure if they where listed back then or if I asked via email (because of license issues) but bought them from them.

#6992 10 days ago
Quoted from tezting:

Here’s a picture Buthamburg it installed close up.
[quoted image]

Purchase link?

#6993 10 days ago

Ok this might be a dumb question. My flippers still have power when the ball drains. Is it supposed to be that way on T2. Non of my other pins do this. I have no tec alerts and no blown fuses that I can find. V/R Shawn

#6994 10 days ago
Quoted from smoothbore19:

Ok this might be a dumb question. My flippers still have power when the ball drains. Is it supposed to be that way on T2. Non of my other pins do this. I have no tec alerts and no blown fuses that I can find. V/R Shawn

It’s normal.

#6995 9 days ago
Quoted from tezting:

Here’s a picture Buthamburg it installed close up.
[quoted image]

Bathamburg’s decals are the best around his fluorescent colors are dead on for the originals.

#6996 9 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Hello all,
I have been wanting a T2 for more than 20 years and I am so happy to say that I am now a proud owner of one. One of my most favorite themes for a pin.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats!! TS is my next purchase. One of my all time favorites!

#6999 9 days ago

Are people using LED flashers for this game? If, what are you using? What brand? Colored?
Please share your experience - will be a great help for me I am very much in doubt..

#7000 9 days ago

Just my opinion but cool white flashers are a must for this title. You can use the tower type or the flat ones. Keep all of them the same color. The light show at the end of the game is fantastic. the only incandescent lights I have in it is at the Auto Fire. When I got the pin it had led flashers in it but was blinding while playing. Everything else is color matched in the inserts.

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