Start at the source and work back. First remove the plug from the light board. Then test the socket flanges via DMM continuity. Then, test continuity with a DMM from the pins on the board to the socket solder "half moons" (where the flanges twist in). Then, test continuity from the plug end that goes to the light board, to the plug end that goes to the backbox board.

My guess is that you have a poor connection at the board somewhere. Either the pin to the socket receptacle, or the socket to the receptacle.

Oh, and make sure the light bulb/led is working before anything.

Reflow the solder on the header pins on the light boards. These boards are notorious for developing cold solder joints over time.

Reflow the solder on the light socket pads. Over time, the brass pads from the socket creates dents in the solder on the board. Reflowing solder erases these dents and makes the connection reliable.

I am about to install a beautiful T2 repro playfield.
But what drills/tools do I need to buy to prepare all the holes etc.?
I think I read about a restoration guy in here who where selling a "pack" with all the tools needed but can't find the thread/person.

That would be from @kruzman, send him a PM and he can get you a kit.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/kruzman-clear-install-kit-is-a-life-saver

Yes do your self a favor and reach out to Ron. I suggest a dremmel to do this works much better than a drill. Once you remove the clear down to the spot where you want to drill you then drill the hole. Saves you from sitting the clear

So dude the key is getting a diamond burr set and a rotary tool (Dremmel) bit u could use a power drill also...and using this to pre drill EVERY hole

You DO NOT want to use drill bits it can twist the clear and cause major damage. Only after using the burr set then if need be u can use drill bits

Exactly, if you remove the clear to expose the wood then you can use a drill bit. For MOST holes you can remove a little more clear than the size of the screw since it will most likely be covered up with a post, screw head, ball guide, etc.

Added an illuminated drop target

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me want!

Can you post a pic underneath?

Yes, I can get a lower angle photo.

What are you using for the eye mods those look good much better than the wedge based with the rubber over them.

https://www.pinballlife.com/briteeyes-terminator-eye-mod-for-terminator-2-pinball-machines.html

Nifty idea! But if it were me, I would tie in the ground wire to the drop target switch, so it was only lit when the target was up.

that is a great idea!

does anyone know where the illuminated drop targets are purchased?

I went over these before mezel started selling them. Let me find the post....you guys have a short memory.

Here they are

You can buy the targets from Pinball mods (minus led):

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/replacement-parts-c-28.html

In case some of you wanted to partake. Today is day 2 of 12 days of christmas auction for target decals. I will taking all profits and buying angel tree kids some xmas gifts.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/12-days-of-christmas-auction-help-the-kids

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They look great!

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Hello all-

Proud new owner of T2. Ive read this whole thread and I can’t find anyone with the Hunter/killer mod in stock. Did I come to the party too late?!
Any advice on how to get one is greatly appreciated!

Not to be offensive, but I did a simple google search and found a bunch.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8570
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-14795
http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/williams/terminator-2/terminator-2-hunter-killer-ship.html

Wait, did you say mod? What mod?

My bet would be the plastic that goes under it with the LEDs

The best H-K mod in my opinion is from Pinbits. I've never seen it in stock on their website so I emailed Pam a couple years ago and they made one for me.

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_41&products_id=351&zenid=7b1c72bc1c77df7bd03c40f345126d29

There is another mod available from a guy from the UK on eBay (Judge Dredd?), it is more expensive and looks tacky (again just my opinion)

Yes. The mod where it is lit up with LED’s. Center of Playfield is very dark-can’t see ball at times
And yes I know how to use google.

Thanks-from reading through years of posts, it seems they have never been in stock! I tried calling them today-no answer. I’ll try email-appreciate it

Pinbits for the win. Thats what I have too. If its not in stock, email them. Theyre very nice people.

I finally fixed my intermittent cannon issue so I figured I'd share. About 75% of the time after loading the cannon it would auto fire just as it begun(on mark) its first sweep(See purple arrow in picture below). I adjusted the switch that rolls along the rotating gun cog/gear/wheel. Loosen the 2 screws that attach the switch(circled in red in picture below) then push it down to depress the switch against the wheel, retighten 2 screws. I'm not sure if the switch has bad contacts and by adjusting it I just put a bandaid on it but I've put about 15 games on it and haven't had any problems since. I never found this issue or fix while trying to Google so I figured I'd post it up on here. Hope this helps anyone who is having similar issues.

*Update 9:20pm 12/18* Played another 5 games when I got home and my brother played a few games as well, no more auto-firing.
InkedInkedT2 edit_LI (resized).jpgT2 Cannon Switch (resized).jpg

Update: I fixed the solder on one socket, cleaned the heck out of the connections on a couple others, and I now have almost all the bulbs with twist sockets working great on T2. Thanks for everyone who had a suggestion for me. Now it's time to start re-soldering some of the sockets for the GI, slings, and autofire hotdog...

Question regarding cannon auto fire:

Mine loads and does one sweep, and if I don’t fire within that first sweep “down” it auto fires. Is this how it is supposed to be?
Or should it sweep back and forth until I decide to fire?

That is correct. It does not sweep forever until you pull the trigger. On it's way back up when it gets back to on the mark(B/w ramp and the 5 light targets) it will auto fire to unload the cannon. If it is auto-firing right as it stops and begins to start its sweep back up then it is malfunctioning.You should be able to pull the trigger and hit any target on the cannons sweep down or on it's way back up.

Thanks for clarifying-Mine def fires at bottom of sweep. I’ll try your advice-appreciate it!

New issue has popped up to try and troubleshoot/mitigate if possible. Even since getting it, I have noticed an issue with locking a ball in the skull. It always seemed to be that even a direct shot would occasionally fail to lock the ball - I always chalked this up to maybe a little rattling in the lane just before the kicker. A month or so ago, the poor skull on my machine popped a rivet and someone managed to get a ball stuck inside his chin! The skull assembly and metal plate that mounts under it have been removed for now until I have access to a rivet press, then I can re-solder the wires and put the skull back on.

Now that I can see the whole lane/kicker assembly, it looks like what's happening is that balls are making it past the gate all the way up into the kicker, but not settling down properly once it goes into the metal backstop and causing the ball to skip back over the kicker and down into the lane. It's a little frustrating to put a clean shot straight up there during a multiball and not get the lock, so I was wondering if there was anything any of you guys do to help prevent that kind of thing. I'm sure replacing the skull and plate helps, but those assembly bits only appear to cover the front opening of that shot and don't really extend all the way over the kicker to begin with.

My first thought was maybe to put a piece of foam up on the metal in the way back to absorb some of the bounce, or maybe to mount a small plastic up there to give the ball less height to bounce. I would have thought the gate would prevent that kind of thing but it seems like either the gate is broken in a way I can't see or the gate has some other purpose.

I made this T2 model skull into a basic topper. I got the skull assembled but unpainted from another pinsider so I painted him up to look “battle damaged” and put in a set of the brite eyes from pinball life. My playfield plastic skull was so beat up I removed it for the time being and ran the wiring up to the topper so it interacts with gameplay. Side note, with the playfield skull and metal mounting plate removed, shots to the drop target are rocketed back towards the flippers with lightning speed now. Keeps you on your toes for sure and makes the game play differently.

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If anyone is running lighted hinges where did you plug the 12v dc input in?

What is the best ROM version to run on T2? L-8?

Yep L-8 is the latest and greatest. I can also modify it if you like to add the LED ghost patcher and remove the banging noise from the attract sound to the L-8 revision.

Tell me more...

The infamous L-8.2???

No, not sure what L8.2 is but keep in mind anybody can rename any rom version as they please.

The attract sound still has an occasional banging noise even when you turn off attract sounds in the menu. This can be removed for a completely silent attract mode.

Thanks to John Honeycutt the ghost patch changes the lamp matrix driver to a later WPC revision that handles LEDs without ghosting. This means you can use less expensive LEDs in the inserts which do not include any non-ghosting hardware built in to them and still look great.

Just became a member

soooo,

I'm putting on new rubber, what's the consensus, Black or white?

I don't think you'll get a consensus, lol. My preference on T2 is black.

clear on the sling shots!

I think black and white looks equally good.

Never do on Pinside. I think black looks better, but I like the bounce of white better.

Agree on this.

I go with Titan rubber on all my machines, then you can choose whatever color you like!

Looking for super high-end restoration of T2. Would also be interested in the "Chrome Edition" so long as it's still a high-end restoration.

Machine - Wanted

Wanted: Terminator 2: Judgment Day Archived

Wanted! - “Looking for super high-end restoration of T2. Would also be interested in the "Chrome Edition" so long as it's still a high-end restoration.”

2018-12-29

Montecito, CA

getadam

Wanted

Archived after: 42 days

Viewed: 88 times

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Picked a semi rough T2 last night. 5 hour drive each direction. Of course when I talked to him it was in perfect condition and needed nothing. I had a feeling it was going to be rough when I asked him the condition of the batteries and he said what batteries? So it needs some TLC and lots of cleaning.

Hunter ship broke

Skull broke

Two pop bumpers don't work

Back box lights don't work - What should a look at???

IMG_4638 (resized).jpg

Congrats and welcome to the club!

For the GI - check F109 and F110. Check driver board J120 and J121 for burned connectors. Very common on this title. If there are signs of heat, replace the header pins on the board and the IDC connector with a molex connector with trifuricon pins.