Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!


By spfxted

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by maffewl
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There are 6889 posts in this topic. You are on page 136 of 138.
#6751 3 months ago

Payment sent!

#6752 3 months ago
Quoted from Buthamburg:

At the moment it is not possible, but it is to think of for the future.
Peter
www.buthamburg.de

Very fair. They look great man I might just break down and replace them all hahaha. We shall see

#6753 3 months ago
Quoted from Buthamburg:

Hello to all
The colors are ofcorse much fresher than those in your pin or NOS.
Your plastics have yellowed in the last 20 years. You lay an old yellowed clear plastic over
them and you will have the same efect and color. Thats what the plastics look liked 20 years ago.
Regards from Hamburg
Peter

Fair enough, i'll give you the benefit of the doubt. Now I'll work on convincing myself to pull the trigger on the most expensive plastics set ever, when I only really want the printed clears... Mine are original HUO, and only very slightly yellowed, but enough to bug me.

#6754 3 months ago

I’m happy to say I recently picked up a very nice T2.
At the moment is bare bones stock, but I’m planning to put a color DMD and LED it, as well as a few tasteful mods.
I’ll probably wind up reading through this entire thread eventually to see what cool mods are out there and what some of you have come up with.
Anybody care to give me the abridged version and point out what some of the better mods are?
Thanks
Kent

#6755 3 months ago

Some of my plastics are okay, some are yellow. I have bought some replacement plastics from a pinball store (5/6 pices) and not added them yet.
I will be replacing them all with this new set. Might be a little crazy, but I would like to have the exact same color on all my plastics and same quality.
So my one will be up for sale shortly after

#6756 3 months ago
Quoted from Coindork:

I’m happy to say I recently picked up a very nice T2.
At the moment is bare bones stock, but I’m planning to put a color DMD and LED it, as well as a few tasteful mods.
I’ll probably wind up reading through this entire thread eventually to see what cool mods are out there and what some of you have come up with.
Anybody care to give me the abridged version and point out what some of the better mods are?
Thanks
Kent

ColorDMD is always a good choice, but with T2 there aren't that many animations that really make it as much of a no-brainer as it is with other titles. Some people have opted to just put a red filter over the DMD and use the $300+ saved toward other bling. I think the lit apron gives more of a wow factor for this game than ColorDMD. I feel like I look at T2's display while playing noticeably less often than my other games.

If your ramp signs are yellowed, I highly recommend the lit ramp signs. Also, if you like having a T-1000 figure the McFarlane T-1000 is nicely detailed and not too pricey on ebay. Also, the Hunter Ship on Amazon for about $25 looks good and is on my to-buy list.

#6757 3 months ago

Going to look at a T2 today and some of the inserts have chipping around them, and some other chips on the playfield, is that normal for this game?

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#6758 3 months ago
Quoted from BrewskisBar:

Going to look at a T2 today and some of the inserts have chipping around them, and some other chips on the playfield, is that normal for this game?
[quoted image][quoted image]

It’s 25+ years old. If you’re worried about it, put some Mylar over it. Based on your name and business you have bigger issues to worry about like some asshat spilling a beer down the front of a pin.

I don’t claim to have read every page of this thread, but this is the first time I can think of that someone specifically asked this question. So I’m going to go with - not common. Lots of T2s came with diamondplate. Mine is 20 years HUO and looks better than a routed AS I played this week.

#6759 3 months ago
Quoted from BrewskisBar:

Going to look at a T2 today and some of the inserts have chipping around them, and some other chips on the playfield, is that normal for this game?
[quoted image][quoted image]

The large rectangular inserts on many games have shifted for some reason. It is a common issue since they are such large inserts. I wouldn't say all games have shifted inserts but some do. I think it all has to do with how the game was treated over its life (i.e. temp controlled storage or not, etc).

#6760 3 months ago

I’ve seen lots of raised inserts on T2, and also insert wear. More common than not.

#6761 3 months ago
Quoted from BrewskisBar:

Going to look at a T2 today and some of the inserts have chipping around them, and some other chips on the playfield, is that normal for this game?

On the inserts, yes, all T2's suffer from some degree of raised inserts... Once it starts, it just keeps getting worse unless you fix it and protect it.
As far as the chip by the flipper, that looks more like a "tool drop" scar... Common for any pin "maintained" by a hack operator during its life.

#6762 3 months ago

Now, after a long time - here they are - the new batch of licensed plastics for T2 from Peter (BUT-Germany).
Very well done.

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#6763 3 months ago

Aww man he put too much blue in them!

#6764 3 months ago

They are perfect, I don't rip off the overlay until I mount them on the playfield.

2 weeks later
#6765 78 days ago

Do any of you T2 owners have, or could take, some good clear photos of the wiring on your coindoor, especially around the lamps and the coin switches? A previous owner did a real hack job on mine and fixing it is this weekend's project.

#6766 78 days ago

You got it! PM me if you need any better shots

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1 week later
#6767 66 days ago

Hello All,

I'm new to the pinball forum and just purchased a T2 pinball and loving it. Question. Machine did not come with the 'skeleton arm' plastics towards the bottom of the machine. I want to purchase them, which I found a source, but do not know the size spacers and screw size needed to mount them over the bottom layer plastics. Any guidance is much appreciated.

#6768 65 days ago

My game came without the hunter ship and I ordered the one from Marco. It doesn’t quite look like the picture which shows more definition and darker colors representing windows etc. I guess it will have to do... does anyone have a good photo of one mounted I can use as a guide? Also I hate how that area is so dark on the game - what has everyone done to improve that?

#6769 65 days ago

I have a brand new right ramp that I'm selling, minus the decals

#6770 65 days ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

My game came without the hunter ship and I ordered the one from Marco. It doesn’t quite look like the picture which shows more definition and darker colors representing windows etc. I guess it will have to do... does anyone have a good photo of one mounted I can use as a guide? Also I hate how that area is so dark on the game - what has everyone done to improve that?

Did you also buy the mounting wire for the ship? You'll need that too.....

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-7009

You can also get those on eBay for about 7 bucks shipped if you don't want to pay the shipping with Marco and don't need additional parts.

For lighting, I bought a $5 adhesive led strip from cointaker and just attached it to the bottom of the ship. Alligator clipped to the GI under the playfield. Helps a lot. See post #6653 in this thread, where I attached a pic of the lighting with that strip installed.

#6771 65 days ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Did you also buy the mounting wire for the ship? You'll need that too.....
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-7009
You can also get those on eBay for about 7 bucks shipped if you don't want to pay the shipping with Marco and don't need additional parts.
For lighting, I bought a $5 adhesive led strip from cointaker and just attached it to the bottom of the ship. Alligator clipped to the GI under the playfield. Helps a lot. See post #6653 in this thread, where I attached a pic of the lighting with that strip installed.

Thanks for the response. I bought the kit with the mounting bracket and screws I’m just not sure exactly where to screw it in and attach it. Definitely going to look into the LED strip because it is so dark over there. I hate moding games but in this case it needs some light. Your led strip suggestion sounds great. Thanks also for your post reference.

#6772 65 days ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

Thanks for the response. I bought the kit with the mounting bracket and screws I’m just not sure exactly where to screw it in and attach it. Definitely going to look into the LED strip because it is so dark over there. I hate moding games but in this case it needs some light. Your led strip suggestion sounds great. Thanks also for your post reference.

Pics attached. The wires in the picture just run to the light strip.

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#6773 64 days ago

Close to finish my T2 finally but I need to change the BB lights to white LEDs as well as the apron with the chromed one from Pinball Dreams.
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#6774 63 days ago

^^^^Beautiful^^^^

#6775 63 days ago

I purchased a really nice example of a T2 about a year ago and have been really enjoying it. I got lucky and bought one with no issues and looks like its never been routed and has always been well taken care of. even came wit a couple of mods {I think} and plays without a hiccup.
Ive been reading about plastics getting broken and I remembered I have a couple after market "fenderwashers" I think they are called, you know circular plastic about the size of a nickle or so so Id like to ask which plastics should I put them under?
The 2 by the entrance to the skull or:
the 2 at the end of the plastics by the right ramp emtrance
Which place would yall put them?
Thanks for any advice
Weeze

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#6776 63 days ago
Quoted from weeze:

I purchased a really nice example of a T2 about a year ago and have been really enjoying it. I got lucky and bought one with no issues and looks like its never been routed and has always been well taken care of. even came wit a couple of mods {I think} and plays without a hiccup.
Ive been reading about plastics getting broken and I remembered I have a couple after market "fenderwashers" I think they are called, you know circular plastic about the size of a nickle or so so Id like to ask which plastics should I put them under?
The 2 by the entrance to the skull or:
the 2 at the end of the plastics by the right ramp emtrance
Which place would yall put them?
Thanks for any advice
Weeze[quoted image]

Wow. A Hungarian Anti-Terror soldier and his dog.

#6777 63 days ago

That dog ,which is NOT a Lab in the picture kinda looks like a lab. Buddy of mine sent that to me cuz of my dawg as a joke. That freaking dawg looks vicious dont ya think? Bet youve seen a few of those, all nicely leashed and quiet I hope!
ok so where do you think the fenderwashers should go?

#6778 62 days ago

I am installing a playfield protector and this needs pulled to do it. What is best way to pull these from playfield?

Also, one is missing. Where can I get them at?

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#6779 62 days ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I am installing a playfield protector and this needs pulled to do it. What is best way to pull these from playfield?
[quoted image]

Just pull. You won't hurt anything. I generally just pull one side out and then the other. You can wiggle/rock/rotate it a bit to get the second side out. Just push it back in when done and tap it all the way in place with a hammer if it can't be pushed in all the way by hand. Don't overthink it.

If you can't pull it out, I've used a piece if scrap wood between it and the playfield and then just use a flat head screw driver between the two as a prybar to get them out. The wood shim will prevent any scratching to the playfield.

If you can't find the exact guide, you can make your own from piano wire....pinball sites sell it exactly for that reason.

#6780 62 days ago
Which place would yall put them?
[quoted image]

Top and bottom of the slingshot plastics is almost always the first place to put them. Ideally, place them above the star posts but BELOW the screw holding the star posts in place if possible. So basically, the stack is star post -> fender washer -> post screw -> slingshot plastic -> nut. This creates a buffer between the washer and the plastic so if the washer takes a really hard hit, it won't pass the shock on to the plastic and break it anyway.

Those fender washer cost literally pennies, so if you are really concerned about protecting the corners of plastics, just buy a bunch and do as you will....or spend 20-25 bucks and buy and entire plastic protector set, which generally looks a little nicer and protects more that just the corners....

#6781 61 days ago
Quoted from cmack750:

Just pull.
If you can't find the exact guide, you can make your own from piano wire....pinball sites sell it exactly for that reason.

That was way easier than I thought. Was worried there might be epoxy holding it in or something. Pulled out very easy.

Piano wire? Those are that thick? Learning all kinds of new stuff today. Haha!

#6782 61 days ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

That was way easier than I thought. Was worried there might be epoxy holding it in or something. Pulled out very easy.
Piano wire? Those are that thick? Learning all kinds of new stuff today. Haha!

You'll need piano wire and a wire jig so you can bend it properly. Pretty easy. Marco sells one for pretty cheap.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-8593

There are a bunch of pinside threads on using piano wire, so check those out if you go that route.

#6783 61 days ago

I start to renew the playfield again... still a lot of work to do.

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I also start to design a new backplate made of Plexi with a customized decal as an illuminated picture.

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#6784 61 days ago

Can’t wait to see the illuminated backplate! I’d be interested if it turns out nice and you produce more than one.

#6785 61 days ago
Quoted from cmack750:

You'll need piano wire and a wire jig so you can bend it properly. Pretty easy. Marco sells one for pretty cheap.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-8593
There are a bunch of pinside threads on using piano wire, so check those out if you go that route.

I've found that a wire jig really isn't necessary, and in fact will actually give you exaggerately rounded corner bends unlike the original piece. Just hold your wire in a vise or a pair of pliers and bend by hand over the corner. Put a couple of pieces of painter's tape on the tool first so the sharp edges don't bite into the wire. The result looks much closer to the original.

#6786 61 days ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Can’t wait to see the illuminated backplate! I’d be interested if it turns out nice and you produce more than one.

Me too. Thats a neglected area in this pin. If it wasnt crazy expensive id be in.

#6787 61 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I've found that a wire jig really isn't necessary, and in fact will actually give you exaggerately rounded corner bends unlike the original piece. Just hold your wire in a vise or a pair of pliers and bend by hand over the corner. Put a couple of pieces of painter's tape on the tool first so the sharp edges don't bite into the wire. The result looks much closer to the original.

Same here, a vice and pliers give perfect results !

#6788 57 days ago

More work at the playfield... Inserts and worn out areas.

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#6789 53 days ago

just bought a T2

one of my favorite games of all time, looking forward to being a part of the machine community

#6790 53 days ago

Retouch looks great averell . I always see people masking like that, and I just dont get how that works. It looks like you just masked the outside edges, and magically the black stayed inside the lines it was supposed to. How does that work? Are you masking with clear tape as well around the rest, and just leaving the lined area exposed? Im a total noob to retouch and painting work, forgive me.

#6791 53 days ago

First I create the insert borders in Corel-Designer.
If they 100% fit, I stick it on the insert, mask the environment and pull off the plotted part of the insert again ... then follows airbrush.

#6792 53 days ago

hey there.
The start button and the tilt stopped working after 3 plays on my recently bought T2 pin, which is really frustrating, as you can't play at all without this button.
The button itself works correctly. The coin door interface board is good (I tested it in another pinball), as are the connectors. Connection to cpu is fine, it's been tested too.
Now the weird parts: it's not the wire either, as the other switches of the column in the matrix are working correctly.
So i don't really know what else it can be... Any hints are welcome.

#6793 53 days ago
Quoted from stf_dnx:

start button and the tilt stopped working

Is it set on free play?

#6794 52 days ago
Quoted from smiley:

Is it set on free play?

yes

#6795 52 days ago
Quoted from stf_dnx:

hey there.
The start button and the tilt stopped working after 3 plays on my recently bought T2 pin, which is really frustrating, as you can't play at all without this button.
The button itself works correctly. The coin door interface board is good (I tested it in another pinball), as are the connectors. Connection to cpu is fine, it's been tested too.
Now the weird parts: it's not the wire either, as the other switches of the column in the matrix are working correctly.
So i don't really know what else it can be... Any hints are welcome.

Weird, could it be the microswitch? Ie if you touch those two leads together does the game start?

#6796 52 days ago
Quoted from stf_dnx:

hey there.
The start button and the tilt stopped working after 3 plays on my recently bought T2 pin, which is really frustrating, as you can't play at all without this button.
The button itself works correctly. The coin door interface board is good (I tested it in another pinball), as are the connectors. Connection to cpu is fine, it's been tested too.
Now the weird parts: it's not the wire either, as the other switches of the column in the matrix are working correctly.
So i don't really know what else it can be... Any hints are welcome.

Got all balls in trough? Are all the trough switches working properly? Anything jamming up the trough?

#6797 52 days ago

Looking for some help here. I have non-ghosting Comet bulbs in the insert and the whole playfield doesn't ghost but the left bank for CPU, Access code etc. The right bank doesn't do it, just the left. You can see in the first picture the top CPU is about 20% lit and in the second picture you can see the checkpoint 100% lit like it should be but the cpu is still 20% lit (hard to see in the picture). Before I launch the ball and the skill shot lights cycle up in down (bank of lights right above) the 20% ghosting cycles with the those. What I mean by this is if the middle skill shot lot is lit then I'll have the silent alarm on at 20%. Any thoughts?

b (resized).jpgbb (resized).jpg
#6798 52 days ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Looking for some help here. I have non-ghosting Comet bulbs in the insert and the whole playfield doesn't ghost but the left bank for CPU, Access code etc. The right bank doesn't do it, just the left. You can see in the first picture the top CPU is about 20% lit and in the second picture you can see the checkpoint 100% lit like it should be but the cpu is still 20% lit (hard to see in the picture). Before I launch the ball and the skill shot lights cycle up in down (bank of lights right above) the 20% ghosting cycles with the those. What I mean by this is if the middle skill shot lot is lit then I'll have the silent alarm on at 20%. Any thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I might try replacing the diodes for the affected bulbs on the lamp board.

#6799 52 days ago
Quoted from Brijam:

Got all balls in trough? Are all the trough switches working properly? Anything jamming up the trough?

This is a good point. When you are in switch level test do all three of those trough switches show as closed? Also during start up do you get the warning to press advance for the test report (IE I would think you would get one after a while if it hadn't heard from the start button being pressed in several cycles) although I'm not 100% on that.

-1
#6800 52 days ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Looking for some help here. I have non-ghosting Comet bulbs in the insert and the whole playfield doesn't ghost but the left bank for CPU, Access code etc. The right bank doesn't do it, just the left. You can see in the first picture the top CPU is about 20% lit and in the second picture you can see the checkpoint 100% lit like it should be but the cpu is still 20% lit (hard to see in the picture). Before I launch the ball and the skill shot lights cycle up in down (bank of lights right above) the 20% ghosting cycles with the those. What I mean by this is if the middle skill shot lot is lit then I'll have the silent alarm on at 20%. Any thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

They only answer is OCD board. http://ledocd.com

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