Yep. I would have bought that one immediately if I lived closer to California.

I like it--I'm getting a Knight Rider vibe from the music.
--
General question for those who have messed with Pinsound--has anyone thought to use sound clips from Sarah or John Connor? I haven't watched the movie in several years but both characters seemed to only have short bits of dialogue that might work in the game to give it more variety? In-game, there aren't exactly a lot of shot cues anyway--even a few Arnold clips from the Bluray might be more worthy than "direct hit" or other similarly bland quotes. Maybe I'm comparing apples to oranges, but I feel much more immersed in its "world" when playing Jurassic Park than T2 and am trying to figure out how to get more of the same vibe here. Is it just because T2 is an earlier DMD-era game? In an effort to not be totally negative, I do enjoy the simplicity of the strategy for this game as a nice change of pace alternative to "deeper" games I've played.

Interesting idea. I'd like to see something like that as well. I've played around with the pinsound editor a little bit. Might be fun to take a look at.

Yes if you give away your labor. I bet he did good to break even just on parts plus his initial investment. It was listed for like $5400 OBO

$2k for base pin
$1k for pf
$300 for decals
$1k+ in chrome
Mirror blades, rebuilt boards, fidelity speakers, LEDs, mods etc. easy another $1k there

Yeah I bet he lost money not even counting labor.

Not a fan. Sounds like TNA meets a rave. No thanks.

When doing T2 restoration small things matters

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Totally understand. It was just something I have started briefly so far as I want to get rid of the cockrock guitar vibe somehow and will still be looking further into better sci-fi type stuff. Unfortunately the movie soundtrack is pretty slow so only good for parts. Maybe I ll check out the other movies in the series as well.

Will you include GnR?

Do any of you guys know about the band “Austrian Death Machine”?
If I get a pinsound board its what Im going with

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Not a chance they are in my cockrock pile

That might be cool....Id like to see how this could get cut up.

Hi,

I need to replace one and would like to replace all the stand up targets on my T2. I am having trouble finding the targets to buy. Help would be appreciated.

Shaun

Wow game looks great. I thought my T2 looked good.

I installed clear Titan rubbers according to one of the uploaded T2 shopping lists on their site but have 4 of the 3/4" and 2 of the 1 1/4" rubbers left over. The manual isn't much help since it's quantities listed are different from each of the T2 shopping lists on Titan's site. Kinda silly that they give you the list of rings and no map for them. It's more helpful than nothing, but why list various colors of something such as post rubbers used, but then not have an indication for where they were placed? Probably should've just ordered all the same color of post rubbers. I do like the clear Titan rubbers for everything else--way more action than the worn out rubbers they replaced and they look good too.

Edit: just remembered that I didn't add the shopping list directly to my cart since I customized it by only changing the color of the flipper rubber. Maybe with the exact shopping list I would've received a map.

What color posts did you go with?

The list recommended mostly light blue, with a few green, yellow, and red. I should've just went with all light blue since I really like how that looks along with the light blue flipper rubber. I saw someone on here had used that before and it's a good shade of blue for the game. Also really happy with others' recommendation of Comet's 2 SMD natural white LED's for the GI. Along with that, I went with two spotlights, (both with a 4 SMD blue bulb) placed at the top of the slingshots aimed at the UV-reactive art in the middle of the playfield--it's hard to show in a picture the difference that makes since most people, me included, aren't into blue-ing out the game. The game is still lit very much with white light, but the blue changes it up just enough to not be plain.

Here's a progression (some parts are missing/need to be changed--still working on another parts order) of incandescent bulbs when I got it, two pictures of Comet 2 SMD LED's with no blue spotlights, one picture of just the left side with a blue spotlight (the endoskeleton disappeared--ack!), and one with both spotlights. The white in the back looks really blown out, but it's a cell phone camera in low light so it's hard to get that to look as it does in person. Also, I removed the lights behind the three center standups because they were blinding me. Even incandescents. Not sure why that's happening since I haven't seen anyone else mention that issue.

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I b ought the reinforced ones from PBR. My center reds would always get destroyed until I got them.

I received this Terminator Hunter ship from Amazon today for $25. I'm fixing up this T2 and the original Hunter ship was broken and a replacement is more than this toy and is still fragile plastic. This toy is mostly die cast, has way more detail, can withstand airballs and was easy to install using the existing wire mount. I drilled two small holes for the wire mount and screwed the mount to the ship securely and ready to play.

On my prior T2s I used a loot crate terminator skull head to replace the existing head. But on those games the original head was cracked and this game only has the common wear spots on the chin, so don't think I'll replace it.

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The bit is smaller than my 1/8" bit. It's not marked since it's small, but just go smaller than the screws you use.

Thanks for this -- totally sweet, perfect size. Just ordered one up for mine! Link for anyone else interested: https://www.amazon.com/NECA-Cinemachines-Collectible-Terminator-Hunter/dp/B01MT4FN4L/

Swapped my Pinstadium lights from Mustang - where it didn't belong anyway but that's where I've had it until I had a game that could really use it.

T2 is the only game I've had Pinstadium installed in that the UV flasher option actually looks cool and wasn't an eye distraction. I connected to a flasher under the skull and the UV with give a quick flash when a ball is loaded and give some nice flashes during the successful cannon shot light show. Perfect addition and not distracting.

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I found the same one on Amazon a week ago and put it in my cart to buy, but forgot! Thanks for the reminder. Looks AWESOME!!

I opted against the UV flasher for my TAF for that reason, and Scott agreed to build me a custom one with both red and white flashers. But on T2, the UV flasher looks AWESOME! I connected mine to the left lock, so it triple flashes on "Get Out" and then when you hit the jackpot or super jackpot it goes NUTS!!! I may try the skull just to see. I don't want a TON of UV flashing though. The payoff from the jackpot is all the more sweeter with the UV.

PoMC, now you just need these:

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3256

Should be mandatory on all T2's!!

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I tried to order a set with red flashers and hook it up to the gun to get the "red alert" type of effect when the gun rotates. But he said he wouldn't build them until he got enough orders for red flashers. Right now, I just have the UV flashers and they are ok.

Every time I see a pinstadium photo, all I see is the circus light reflection on the playfield. Isnt that annoying? To me It needs a frosted lens or some diffuser. Why not just add a couple spot lights? I just added a spot to the bumper on my desw, looks stock, fills the dark void at the center and no reflection.

Does th UV bulbs really highlight the uv colors? Any vids?

You can't see reflections on the playfield when playing. If standing off to a side, then yes the light strip reflections can be seen. The only reflections I can see when playing a game depends on what is underneath the light strips. Plastic ramp returns? Yes, you'll see reflections off those. My Baywatch, Shadow, Big Hurt and T2 do not have anything very reflective under the strips along the playfield edges. On Mustang though, there are plastic ramp returns along the playfield sides that will show reflections from the lights.

So for those type of reflections it depends on the game. Make a set of DIY stadium lights and check it out. Easy to make, inexpensive and in my opinion they look fantastic.

I used to add spotlights to games that needed more lighting, but I am much happier with the entire playfield being evenly lit using the stadium lights I make.

Agreed. The stripe effect reflecting off the wire guides, e.g., looks WAY worse in pictures than in person. In person, the are no distracting reflections. Even better, the PinStadium lights eliminate virtually all glare from external light sources, including the DMD and my very bright topper. Well worth the cost, IMO.

I got one of the very first in production, before he started getting slammed, I guess, so he agreed to do a one-off for me. What's your flasher lead hooked up to?

I'll try to post a video tonight.

I've hooked them up to the flasher underneath the gun. It only flashes when the gun starts to rotate.

It's been said in this thread before, but those lit ramp signs are a nice upgrade, especially when the originals have yellowed or flaked. I got mine from JD on ebay along with his cannon cover. Only negatives for the items are the spelling for "Centre" when the movie takes place in Los Angeles--I guess Skynet was sold to an entity outside the US and I wish the cannon cover had the back side covered too. Minor gripes, but overall I'm happy with how my game looks now! Still waiting for the loot crate skeleton and the Brite Eyes mod is on the to-do list as well.

Gameplay question: the space to the right of the three middle standup targets--is that supposed to be accessible via a shot from the flippers? With the Titan post rubbers, it's now a bit snug there and the ball sometimes even has to rattle a bit to get through there as it falls out of the pop bumpers. I'm guessing there is supposed to be more room rather than a bottleneck.

Not really. The UV lights that Pin Stadium uses are more or less useless as a "black light." The wave length is too high (less expensive). But, people seem to like the purple pop.

If you wanted a "true" UV light you'd need to get something in the 365nm wavelength to get a good UV florescent glow. Unfortunately, those types of UV led strips are pretty expensive currently.

Here is a pretty good article if you care to read up:
http://glow.glowinc.com/black-lights-1/

Yes, that shot can be made cleanly from the left flipper and I actually made it again earlier tonight. I do have blue post rubbers installed, don't recall who made them, but they aren't Titan. But I've run into that issue on other games when using other types of "rubber" in tight spots. Try waxing the posts and rubber rings in the area first.

I improved the spacing, but I'll keep an eye on it. Titan rubbers are nice in some areas, but they're thicker so they aren't good near bottlenecks or other narrow areas.

Anyone using this translite? Haven't seen it installed anywhere. It's the only one I can recall with the Connors on it.

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/terminator-2-alternate-pinball-translite/

I had to remove the ones on the top lanes because it was just barely enough to graze my ball while hitting the right orbit, that many times it would not complete the orbit.. a lil goes a little by way

Can someone point me in the right direction. I have search a little but cant seem to find out what I need to do. Basically I lost my right side gi , and the pop bumper lights. The left side is fine. I have check all the fuses. They are good. I have restated the connectors. J115, j121 I think. Still no luck. I am thinking is a transitor maybe. I didn't see any fried transitors or what not on the board. Anyone know off hand what transitors run the right side gi and pop bumper lights.

My experience has been that GI issues have always been with the connector or pins on the board. I make a new connector and that has resolved my GI issues. Last game like that was recently with a Shadow I have. One side of the GI was out and I could get it to turn temporarily on by fiddling with the connector. I replaced the connector and all was working again.

I had issues with GI related to connectors being old and header pins having cracked solder points. I would check all the solder connections on the backs of the boards. My game would play fine, and during multiball RANDOMLY would go black, but still play. When you would drain, it would reset again.

I have a video of it here. I sent my board out to John Wart and its never done it since.

Check it out:

Awsome. I will pull the board and re flow the pins. And try and find new connectors from Marco's.
Thanks for the help

Hello to all

We can now announce that the Terminator 2 plastic sets are now ready for shipping.
The plastics are genuine Silk Screened with fluorescent orange / red. The complete
art work has been redone from scans of the original films used by Bally Williams.
These plastics are fully licensed.
The picture is showing all the plastics contained in the set.

Here is a list with the price shipped to your country for
1 Set of Terminator Plastic set. The Plastic Set will be sent via air mail
and insured.

USA. Euro 190
AUS. Euro 195
CAN. Euro 190
EC. Euro 210,63
DE. Euro 196,35

If you wish to purchase a set of Terminator 2 plastics set, please send me an email directly to
peter(at)buthamburg.de

Sorry to those whom have waited so long, thank you for your patients.
We are busy modifying our production facilities, it will still take some time
until we are finished. The biggest work is done and we can start to concentrate
on our projects again.

Terminator 2 Playfields are primered, we are waiting for an appointment at
the printers shop.

Regards from Hamburg
Peter

B&T Automaten Vertr.
Brunner & Tuazon GmbH
Ringstr. 43
22145 Hamburg
Germany
Web: www.buthamburg.de

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Thanks for making these for us Peter!

Really good news!

if anyone buys a set in the US, and doesn't need the arnie plastic, I'll buy it off of you. Its my only cracked plastic =(

At the moment it is not possible, but it is to think of for the future.
Peter
www.buthamburg.de

Awesome! Maybe its just the photo, but the aquamarine and brown/tan colors look WAY too light to me.

Don't worry BUT used the old films and refreshed all the plastics in the set.
He said that the last runs in the past were bad from the quality standard they used to be at the beginning.
They spent month in redrawing and recalculated the correct colouring and now the plastics have that qualtity they should have had!

Hello to all

The colors are ofcorse much fresher than those in your pin or NOS.
Your plastics have yellowed in the last 20 years. You lay an old yellowed clear plastic over
them and you will have the same efect and color. Thats what the plastics look liked 20 years ago.

Regards from Hamburg
Peter

Anyone have a right sling plastic for sale?