Custom beach towels!

Where and how? Details!

Actually there's no biggie... searched for the illustrations on the web and sent to a specialized shop to print them. Then I glued small magnets at each corner!

Hey, guys just got my T2 up and running for the first time post restore, and everytime I press start (one time) it auto adds 4 players?? Where in the menus can I change this?
Thanks!

Payback time is 5 mil per shot. Figuring you can hit the ramps back to back to back to back, how long does PBT last? 20 seconds? I bet I could MAYBE hit them 10 times (5 each side). 50m....not bad. Easy to re-light too, right? Or do you have to hit the ramps twice over to get back to PBT? Ill try it out. I ALWAYS just go for super jackpots....

You have to hit alternate ramps, each 5 times (so 10 shots total). If you can combine payback with multiball, you can really rack up, assuming you can keep track of all of the balls. (I usually can't LOL)

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Where and do they have the original color?

I need an Arnie plastic so bad =(

My best game not involving hitting the super jackpot, was done with motorcycle loops. I maxed out the value (5m) then hit like 8 in 10 seconds lol, you get the 5m plus a consecutive million bonus. Sometimes the timing is just perfect and you can really get your loop on.

AlexSMendes not bad I think over all the colors are very desaturated. You specifically can see it in the areas that should have more of a "pinkish" hue but appear more orange. Compare to the attached image

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Thanks brother! Your input is very important so we try to get things as close to original as possible!

I can never hit that loop consistently... I've owned the machine since early March, have played probably 800 times since then, and I just hit it three times in a row for the first time last week... It really gets some speed going, especially on the second hit!

What about now?

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Just replied to you AlexSMendes this is getting very close. I did some color sampling and looking at a lot of plastics. I think this is now a little too red. I'm assuming he used the color PANTONE SOLI COATED RED 032C for the pinkish red. THis is a tad bit too red. I was proposing to use PANTONE SOLID COATED 710C , it is more in the pink color band. THis is important as too much red and they will not be UV reactive colors.

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Any tips on the rear ball popper (behind the skull)?

I've been helping a buddy out with his T2 and we found that the rear ball popper shaft was broken in half. I replaced it, but now without a ball in it, it keeps trying to launch a ball that isn't in there. I tried adjusting and cleaning the crescent shaped switch several times, but the problem persists. I'm going to guess the switch is bent out of shape and is getting stuck closed.

Most importantly, make sure you use a proper layer and type of the white diffusing back coating. All the T2 repro stuff I have seen so far, that has come out of Germany, has far too light (thin) of a coating, so GI LED's wash the color completely out, and they look like shit unless the game is turned off.

Great point TheOnlyest ! Did not even think of that. Have you ordered from pinball resource?? Wonder if theirs has the white backing?

Huye T2 Owners, are many of you adding floodlights to light center of the playfield??

It sounds like the switch contacts are touching.

Thanks bro! Let's see what we can come up with...

It's so cool when people use the forum to help each other, instead of bitchin around and being negative...

Stay tuned!

I have them. Used bright blue LEDs. Almost a necessity for playing in a dark room (in my opinion). The fluorescent orange on the PF glows a bit with the blue. I assume it would glow more brightly with a color closer to UV/blacklight.

I’d like to see some pics of what yours looks like. I only play in the dark and moved my GI from sunlight to warm white 1 SMD just to decrease the intensity of the brightness. I would think blue would be harder on the eyes.

Walamab exactly what I was after, I have a dark game room, on purpose, so I was going to put 2 spot lights on the slings

I'll take some this evening and post them. My playfield is partially disassembled for cleaning and Cliffy installation but it should still give you the idea of what the lighting does.

I use 4 spots. 2 at aprox. 90 degrees to one another on the left sling. and 2 more at approx. 90 degrees to one another above the kickback targets on the right.

Here's some pics of my blue spots.

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I’ve got a line on a reimport T2 from France. Cabinet solid sans minor scuffs as usual. Translite solid. Playfield has raised inserts pretty high up. Hunter ship missing. Broken plastics all over. It turns on with lots of GI out. No keys so couldnt see the boards. DMD has lots of lines in it. But it cycles through and can hear/decipher attract mode. Maybe loose cable?

Other than the obvious “as cheap as possible” reply, what would be an appropriate price to pay?

Blitzburgh99 I just bought one in cali that had mpu board damage, pretty serious cabinet damage, playfield was decent, gi worked, end good, I paid 1800. I'd say don't pay a dollar over 1k based on what you listed. If you have. It seen the boards I would assume there is alkaline damage

Are repro playfields still available or are they sold out?

They were only made if you ordered one, I believe. You can contact him and see if there is a possibility of a re-run.

Lines in the DMD could be cables but there is a good chance it is not. I would plan on replacing it when you work out an offer.

How is the PF other than the raised inserts? if there isn't any wear, could you be happy by just pushing them back down and gluing them in place?

Color accurate plastics are unobtainable. The available replacements are unlicensed and have straight red ink as opposed to the UV reactive stock ink that matches the PF insert circles. There is little chance for an official set being done as it will need Arnold's permission.

The H/K ship can be had and you have several options there. You could go with a factory replacement or adapt one of the more detailed models.

Playfield has some wear in addition to the inserts raised.

Then I would say sub $1500 for sure. I would bring a drill and drill out the locks so you can see the boards and get a closer look at the playfield so you can figure out how far below $1500. What are they asking for it?

$1200 and he’s pretty firm.

I love fixing up and repairing games and would jump on that.

Even without seeing the boards?

Blitzburgh99 I literally got the last repro playfield, they are decent, really soft clear coat. My recommendation is have HSA restore it... will take about 3 months but that is by far the best option. I think there are plans for another run of repro playfields see here: https://www.pinballshop.nl/playfield-parts/playfields/terminator-2-t2-playfield/ but your looking at more $ that just restoring yours

I had a T2 before and traded it for a WCS94. Breaking Dad Joey told me I would be back....he was right. I’ve missed Arnie ever since! I might be close to being back in the club

She is almost done just trying to resolve a F114 fuse error

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Looking good! Brush a little coffee on the teeth after painting white for more realism.

Yes but I do my own board repair so that wouldn't concern me. If you don't want to, there are replacement CPU boards you can get.

I guess my thinking is that it is a $2000 game once it is cleaned up and working. If you have to put some $ into boards, a few parts and a DMD, you are sill making money or worst case, breaking even.

Great idea snakesnsparklers !

If your restore has fresh cabinet decals, those pincab protectors will damage them. Unless you have the metal protectors under them, i'd remove them asap.. Good luck on wrapping up the restore.

On the subject of raised inserts... I've just finished overhauling my players condition T2. It has some raised inserts and I'm just wondering what the general opinion is, just leave them alone or try to clamp them back in? I'm just wondering with the clamping if they crack and then I'm in a world of sh*t.

I would fix them, especially if they are affecting the ball travel path. They should not crack when clamping them back in, use a piece of wood to distribute the clamping force over the entire insert.

I need to do this too, as some of my inserts are slightly proud, and I'm noticing wear on the black borders. What's the trick here? Gigantic looks-like-I-stole-an-arm-a-Pacific-Rim-Jaeger sized clamp? And how do you clamp against the bottom of the pf, with all the hardware under there?

Some locations you just might not be able to fit a clamp without some disassembly. You can also try tapping the insert back in, still using a piece of wood wrapped in some cloth.

Thanks man. They are not affecting ball travel that I can tell but will have a go at using your 'tap in' method.

Just tried this and it worked a treat!!! Cheers!

Just joined the club! Picked it up this past weekend.