(Topic ID: 213137)

Terminator 2 blowing fuses

By Nethawk86

1 year ago

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  • 11 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Nethawk86
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#1 1 year ago

T2 was working fine when I picked it up but parts were utterly destroyed throughout. Bought full complete flipper assembly's from pinball life (https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=717) as well as new drop target assembly, complete stand-up targets set, lamp sockets, flipper leaf switches, ball launcher assembly and coil, cherry switch in gutter. It had 30 coils in it before but i now replaced them with 29s. Hooked everything all up as it should be and left flipper immediately blows fuse upon hitting the flipper button. Checked 101 and 102 fuses and replaced both just for kicks with the required 2.5 slowblows. Left flipper still blows immediately upon hitting the button and right flipper blows fuse when holding button down. Trigger on gun also does not operate right when in "shoot the hk mode" but works fine all other times. It won't fire until way after it's pressed. Right flipper also sometimes can be activated during non play when hitting the flipper button. Again, all this stuff was fine before, besides the right flipper being activated when hitting the button on non use, that was happening before and thought this would solve it. Ive exhausted all forms of wiring and common sense.


#2 1 year ago

Well, step one would be to check your voltage. Make sure you're not getting any insane numbers at the flipper coils. If everything was really bad and fried, but the voltages are OK, I'd go for replacing the flipper section of your driver board. It's like two 6 pin chips, a common transistor, and some resistors.

As for the trigger not operating correctly, check your motor switches. There's two of them under the playfield. There's one that tells it when the shooter is in the home position, and one that tells it it's okay to fire. You may need to adjust that second one.

#3 1 year ago

Also make sure the wires to the flipper coils are soldered in the correct order on the coil lugs and check the wires on eos switches if they also are correct

#4 1 year ago

Again, everything worked fine before swapping parts. All wiring is exactly the same as before. I will check voltages and post back. I wouldn't put electronics to go bad Willy nilly so it could be an IC or relay went bad after i fired it backup from sitting for a couple months dead. Could also be a bad flipper coil they sent me, have had that happen on new things too many times to not rule that out.

#5 1 year ago

Here's an idea if you want to try,Swap the flipper coils and see if the problem changes or stays the same.

#6 1 year ago

I can't see the quality of the solder joints too well but your wiring is correct and the coil diodes are oriented correctly. Are both EOS gapped properly?

#7 1 year ago

Eh, EOS shouldn't blow the fuse instantly. I'm thinking it might be the 29's. It's not supposed to have coils that high in it. 30's are factory for a reason.

#8 1 year ago

I think I figured it out...just have to pick up some diodes. I think I fried the diodes on the one flipper when I first wired these up and is why the left flipper is dead and blows immediately. Still issue with right flipper when held down blowing fuse. Thinking it might be gapped wrong? Early T2s were shipped with 29s and many still use them, 30s were later used due to prevent excessive bumper and plastic damage overtime.

#9 1 year ago

29's are stronger than 30's..The lower the number the stronger the coil will be.The correct voltage should be +.50v and anything over that will cause fuses to blow.

#10 1 year ago

Could be your diodes. If you hooked them up incorrectly first, then yeah, you either blew the diode or the related transistors. Or both.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from pinmike:

29's are stronger than 30's..The lower the number the stronger the coil will be.The correct voltage should be +.50v and anything over that will cause fuses to blow.

Correct, thats what I was saying they started with 29's but later switched to 30's due to prevent excessive playfield part wear since the 29's were higher power.

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