Pinballrepair.com recommends lubricating baklite contact point rivets with Teflon Gel Lube.
I have Teflon bike chain dry lubricant and some SuperLube multi-purpose synthetic grease (heavy duty) with Teflon. Will either of those work?
I have used the Super Lube on the rivets on Gottlieb machines and it works well. I don't know if the bicycle lube has the same dielectric qualities as Super Lube. The bicycle lube does work well on storm door locks.
My rule of thumb with the lube is if you can see it, it's too much. Like yancy said, a very thin layer - almost like it's not there. This applies to the way I apply the teflon lube to anything that would need it - metal to metal contact points to bakelite discs to spinner wire arms. Just enough to get the result and not have extra to fly everywhere or start to gum stuff up (which it shouldn't, but everything can get grit in it)
Pinball_Postal
One of the articles I read recommended the dry chain lube for something pinball related that I was cleaning, but I forget what. I'll go out on a limb and say that its working, whatever it was.
While we're on the subject of baklite contacts... on the rivets I could use 400 grit emory paper, but I also have stainless steel Dremel brushes. The Dremel would be a lot easier... but would it be too harsh?
I used a metal polish on the rivets to remove any oxidation. Working great 10yrs later. In general in avoid any kind of abrasive beyond polish unless you have no other option.
I have metal polish.
Pinrepair.com says sandpaper on the snow shoes. I used 400 grit Emory paper. Needed it on one of them, for sure.
But the article didn’t mention the rivets, except to lube them.
Quoted from undrdog:But the article didn’t mention the rivets, except to lube them.
I usually hit 'em with a green scotchbrite and alcohol to clean off any tarnish, then lube. Anything gentle. Dremel seems like overkill.
Quoted from yancy:I usually hit 'em with a green scotchbrite and alcohol to clean off any tarnish, then lube. Anything gentle. Dremel seems like overkill.
Not to mention harder to do. I use your method also.
Quoted from undrdog:pinball_postal
One of the articles I read recommended the dry chain lube for something pinball related that I was cleaning, but I forget what. I'll go out on a limb and say that its working, whatever it was.
While we're on the subject of baklite contacts... on the rivets I could use 400 grit emory paper, but I also have stainless steel Dremel brushes. The Dremel would be a lot easier... but would it be too harsh?
This is what I do:
Carefully take the wiper finger assembly off the stepper. Usually just one nut and a lockwasher holds it on.
Wipe the rivets with a rag or paper towel moistened with lighter fluid. This is to take any old grease or gunk off the rivets.
Then I use Brasso polish on a rag to clean and shine up the rivets. You'll see the rivets change from a dull color to bright shiny brass in no time.
Next buff the rivets with a clean rag.
Now I use the Super Lube synthetic grease and apply a very light coat to the rivets.
The reason for greasing the rivets is because the brass rivets are soft and the wiper fingers would soon cut a grove into the rivets and fuck up the contacts. Greasing prevents the wear and helps the wipers snap back to zero position right away when pulsed to reset.
I clean the tips of the wiper fingers with lighter fluid to remove the gunk on them. Then I use my fiberglass eraser pen on the contacts to shine them up. Now the wiper finger assembly can be put back on the freshly cleaned & greased stepper unit.
I used Mother’s Mag & aluminum polish, then alcohol to get rid of the polish, then soft cloth to wipe off any alcohol residue.
Then very thin wipe of super lube.
It didn’t fix the original problem, and now more things are wrong. But, I guess that confirms the problem is in that unit.
I’m thinking my next step is to take it all apart again, and check the connections on the back side of the rivets.
Unless anyone thinks the problem could be a bad connection at the jones plugs. I cleaned them all when I got the machine a few months ago, but maybe a wire is loose?
I’m on the verge of calling a pro in to fix it once and for all , but I keep thinking the next step will fix it. It’s not the money, I hate to admit defeat.
Do the snow shoes make connection to their holders on their sides, or at the bent end at the top of their tubes? I thought it was along their sides and didn’t clean the bent part so well.
Quoted from KenLayton:This is what I do:
Carefully take the wiper finger assembly off the stepper. Usually just one nut and a lockwasher holds it on.
Wipe the rivets with a rag or paper towel moistened with lighter fluid. This is to take any old grease or gunk off the rivets.
Then I use Brasso polish on a rag to clean and shine up the rivets. You'll see the rivets change from a dull color to bright shiny brass in no time.
Next buff the rivets with a clean rag.
Now I use the Super Lube synthetic grease and apply a very light coat to the rivets.
The reason for greasing the rivets is because the brass rivets are soft and the wiper fingers would soon cut a grove into the rivets and fuck up the contacts. Greasing prevents the wear and helps the wipers snap back to zero position right away when pulsed to reset.
I clean the tips of the wiper fingers with lighter fluid to remove the gunk on them. Then I use my fiberglass eraser pen on the contacts to shine them up. Now the wiper finger assembly can be put back on the freshly cleaned & greased stepper unit.
Master lesson.
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Schoolcraft, MI