Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (LE)
Stern, 2020
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (Premium)
Stern, 2020
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (Pro)
Stern, 2020You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinmonk.
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Quoted from davisjl1979:How are the play fields and ramp flaps holding up. Hoping there are some improvements over stranger things.
Playfield is doing very well and looks like they went back to slightly thicker ramp flaps. Haven't noticed the instant denting I did on Stranger Things.
Quoted from Chubbie:I’m completely confused. I ordered a LE and haven’t heard squat from the authorized dealer I purchased from.
Well, with no location listed on your account, it's hard to even guess why that would be. Where are you? What Dist?
So doing temp testing on TMNT to see what the coil temperature situation is and it seems to have at least mild fade, most noticible on the left flipper at around 125F when the left ramp becomes hard/impossible to backhand (at least for me). This is earlier/lower temp than it's noticed in Stranger Things, which doesn't start to be noticed until the 130s, but I think that's just because that left TMNT ramp is so steep that any loss of power on a backhand becomes much more obvious.
Has anyone noticed that the left ramp is harder to backhand the further into a long game they get?
Quoted from JodyG:Make sure you don't have a cold or incomplete solder joint on that coil somewhere. As you may already know, bad connections make heat.
Looked good and I gave them a tug to make sure there wasn't something I couldn't see. It's fine.
One thing that was immediately clear is I won't be able to do a one-size fits all bracket pair. TMNT has a whole bunch going on under the playfield by the right flipper, so I had to raise the fan a bit and angle it down. Left side was the same as Stranger Things. I'll probably end up with a few similar designs and mix and match by machine.
Quoted from J85M:For those who have there games in hand, how are the playfields looking and holding up? Any pooling around posts? Or major dimpling like stranger things?
For the pro at least, it's much better than Stranger Things. No craters despite a fair amount of airballs and ramp flaps aren't denting like tinfoil like they did on Stranger Things. The Stern lottery is alive.
Quoted from ectobar:xaqery
Got some games in on location today. I'm pretty sure hold bonus isn't working. Had two different holds that I think got away.
Maybe some owners could take a look
Working on the Pro at least. I've seen it a lot.
Quoted from ectobar:It says it on the ball you earn it, but I think that's it. I had two different hold bonus around 4m that didn't get added on the following ball.
I guess it's worth noting that I'm a chronic double flipper screen skipper. Might just be confused, but since the game is bonus heavy I was trying to pay attention.
Ah, I just have seen the screen that I got the bonus held. I haven't done the math to make sure that bitch Barb hasn't crept over from the upside-down in Stranger Things to play unkind games with TMNT scoring now, too.
Quoted from Bundy:Got me thinking of Rammstein
Same! Why'd they change the name to "hero turtles" instead of "ninja turtles" in the German one??
Quoted from J85M:In the U.K. and a number of countries in Europe TMNT was changed to Hero Turtles due to some controversy going on at the time (I don’t know exactly before I was born) but they where worried the word ninja wouldn’t go down well so changed it to hero.
Nothing to do with different languages, ninja in German is the same as ninja in English.
This is the answer I was looking for. Having taken basic German in school, I was pretty sure there was ninja or something like it.
Thanks.
Quoted from chuckwurt:I don’t think so. I wish they never added them back.
I wish they added them back right. Cutting power to everything was dumb. What's the point?
Quoted from Chalkey:I have had issues when booting the game with the door open. Boot with it closed, then open, pull interlock, and go to menus.
Interlocks are dumb. They did without them just fine.
CORRECT interlocks that just kill coil power are fine, they keep your fingers from getting smashed when testing the auto-launch switch, for example. But killing EVERYTHING like the new "why bother" interlocks do IS dumb.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Cutting the power to anything is dumb. Work on the game turned off.
How do you test switches with the game turned off?
Quoted from chuckwurt:You can’t. How are you at risk getting 50v sent through you testing switches?
With the non-switched Sterns if you wanted to test the shooter lane switch, you got your fingers slammed by the active auto-launcher. That one happened to me more than once. With the new-style, pointless cutoff, you lose power to everything, so you can't even test switches.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Why are you testing switches with your fingers?
I'm a little slow, if that's not clear by now.
The better question is, why did you do this more than once, after Stern changed the interlock so this can happen?
But I did.
Quoted from TKDalumni:What kind of scores are you guys seeing? Is 70 million decent? Anyone break 100?
70's very good. I only have one 90 so far.
Quoted from J85M:I’d also like to know this been watching a lot of streams and I’m kinda liking the pro more, mainly the stopper instead of the diverter seems to give you a little break from the lightening speed of the game.
I didn't see the point of the stopper on the pro, either, but I've grown to appreciate it on long games as a short time to shake out my arms.
Quoted from mummite:I really like how the colored outline around the character matches the mode and wraps into the color of the mode insert light. Really like how the art really represents the modes and shots. Hat tip to Mr Yeti for that one.
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Yeah, it's cool how he matched the stroke around the character to those insert outlines. I keep thinking the mode insert on shredder's chest makes him look like Iron Man.
Also, is it just me, or does one of the music themes have bits that sound like Motorhead Ace of Spaces?
Quoted from mbrave77:just be ready to become obsessed with owning a pinbll game and buying more...And then moving shit around so you can buy more. Im less then two years in and 1 to finish off my basement has become 4...and its not enough.....help me
Sooner or later, you realize that your ideal pinball collection is your current collection plus one.
Doesn't matter how many you have, you always want another.
Quoted from cabal:A Questions to the Owners. Is there a midnight madness mode?
I think i have heard that dwight said there is none, but did somebody try it out?
Xaqery says no Midnight Madness mode in TMNT. Since there's obviously some polish left to do, here's hoping for one of Dwight's Midnight Madness modes in another update. It's a shame Star Wars had to have its MM pulled.
Quoted from A-D-L:Hi everyone, first post, first pin... waiting on my TMNT Pro that I WON from pinball.edu, pretty excited. Question, I've heard that I should plan to replace all the balls in the game with Ball Baron ones as they are better quality. Any truth to that? I looked into it briefly and see that the Chrome Ninja balls wont work because of the magnets in the pizza. Is it worth getting the carbon steel ones? Should I stick to stock?
Thanks in advance.
Meh. Keep the playfield waxed and the stock stern ones are fine for a while. You DEFINITELY can't put chrome ones in it because of the magnets, though.
Quoted from Gtrefraction:FYI Dwights latest beta code allows modes to be started while 123 foot combo is running... very nice improvement.
What's the version number?
Quoted from Rydhia:If there are any keychain nerds out there like me, this one seems to be one of the better ones out there. Pretty hard to track down, but there are 1-2 on eBay.
Edit: just noticed the bottom screw for the coin door appears to be popping out, lol
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Or about $3.60 each from the source (which is also likely unlicensed and where the ebay ones are coming from) if you can wait a month for it to show up.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001095365324.html
These are cuter, IMO, and they have all the turtles, but you'd have to order a bunch for the expensive shipping to make sense:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001126738915.html
Quoted from cabal:ah too bad i like this random kicking in of the midnight madness. Was just wondering as there seem to be traces of midnight madness in the code.
some active call outs for midnight madness champion.
Well, that's encouraging. It either means Xaqery is still planning Midnight Madness for TMNT but just can't admit it publicly yet, OR the more depressing version that it was planned and ran afoul of licensor restrictions.
Still hoping it's coming. I love the feature, especially when it's as well-integrated with the theme as the one in Munster is.
Quoted from cooked71:We all know TMNT's core audience will be in bed well before Midnight.
I always flip them so it's noon instead of midnight and everyone has a chance to see it at a decent hour.
So, I *hate* the clear/white flasher domes for Training on both ramps blasting me in the face when they come on in a dark room. So I tried all available colors: green, yellow, orange, red, purple, blue. All of them seemed wrong, except red, purple, and green.
Unfortunately, purple transmits too much light and looks blown-out when lit up. Red in that plastic standup looks like it should have always been that way, but the red flasher dome on the side near it makes it not great (too much red flasher in your sightline on both sides with red for training, too). After thinking red was "it" I changed to green after only a few games, because green breaks up the red flasher congestion on each side, and green means "go" universally. Also, in real life, the green is not as blown out when on as it is in this gif, I couldn't get my phone to iris down because it was flashing too fast.
After this test, I highly recommend green, followed by red dome "cap" inserts (note that the "cap" half domes have only one fastening tab, not two) instead of the too-bright and visually incongruent factory clear/white.
Here's a GIF of each "finalist" test...
Green_Flasher_Test.gif
red_flasher_test.gif
Purple_Flasher_Test.gif
Seriously, though, green or red are both better than clear/white cap dome. Changing yours out is in the top 3 best mods you can do for your TMNT.
Stern? It's not to late for a running change to green for these on the line...save America's eyes.
Quoted from Rob_G:I got word my LE is being built this week. Evidently it was waiting for pizza crust mods from Dwight.
Rob
To make the pizza wheel quieter?? <--pleaase.
Quoted from Medisinyl:We were having this issue from day one as well. Been planning a mod for that area to keep the balls on track.
Just made a thread to track my mod development for those that are curious: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-medisinyl-mods-tmnt-mod-development-thread-
Checked out that thread and was surprised to find we might end up having competing character selection bezels, but mine is quite different.
Quoted from Medisinyl:Always a minefield modding for the new games (Mezel got to one of my plans first and nailed it better than I would have), but I have no issue with others overlapping the areas I'm modding--I just want to make cool stuff and see others make cool stuff. Look forward to seeing what you come up with
Yeah, usually I'm off in my own world with little overlap. There's no guarantee this bracket will pass muster and even be released when it's done as it's still evolving and fairly ambitious. I have a bunch of unfinished mods for other games that I just didn't think were sponge-worthy in the end.
Quoted from pickleric:At least the darn thing doesn't sound like the blender that is in JJPPoTC, that thing is ridiculous.
Eh, it's a *close* second. The strange thing is the loudness comes and goes. One of these days I'll probably get into it and see if I can quiet it down.
Quoted from Napoleon:I'll be interested in what you find out.
I've got a pretty fat stack of existing projects to finish up, so it might be a while. It's definitely on the "to do" list, though.
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Diverter looks fine. That being said my plastic ramp is already scratched up from the Diverter. Like you can run your finger along the ramp and feel the damage.
I've tried booting with the door closed and still the same errors. Keeps shooting the balls out.
I'd power off and plug/replug all the RJ45 connectors under the playfield and also in the backbox. Then power on and try again.
If it's still doing weird things, reseat the circuit board molex connectors on the circuit boards and make sure none have come loose. Then power up and try again.
If all it's doing is still just launching balls, catch TWO balls and manually load them in the back of the van. Then see if you can start the game.
Quoted from JodyG:Thats exactly what its supposed to be doing. If its happening only while the door is open, its functioning properly. They should go away if you boot with the door closed. Its a self diagnostic mode when booting. With the door open, those boards have the power cut to them for safety and those errors are what you see.
It needs to have a message about the status of the interlock switch on that screen to give inexperienced owners a clue.
Quoted from Troutfarm:I am having the center ramp not registering pretty often. And also having the ball hop off the right habitrail into the drain.
Assuming it’s an opto issue with the ramp. Anyone else have this problem?
Does the opto work in switch test mode?
If it DOES register in test mode, cover the bottom half of the opto circular opening with non-transparent/opaque material (gray duct tape, etc) so it completely blocks the bottom half. ONLY HALF, not more. Should help make fast balls register more cleanly.
Quoted from Happy81724:Ok, I got mine today and checked it all over and this was in the coin box. Clearly for the diverter behind the van. Wtf. So I see I can take the coil out there has to be screw that goes into it. I don’t see that screw and will I have to take the whole ramp of to fix it?
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The parts are socially distancing.
Quoted from daveyvandy:Here's a picture. Which parts am I supposed to adjust to raise the pizza? I don't see any washers.[quoted image][quoted image]
It looks like the two bolts on the side need to be loosened on each side, then you can freely slide the whole assembly up and down and re-tighten.
TMNT Pizza adjust (resized).jpgQuoted from daveyvandy:All right, made some adjustments. Just need to adjust the machine screws on the outer mechanism which lets you wiggle the large plate to give it just enough of a difference in height. Use a 5/16 wrench. There's also a very small set screw on the shaft which gives you further play. Use a 5/64 Allen wrench.
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Thanks for posting the pics.
Did this get your pizza level?
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Anyone know where I can get cleaner to specifically clean stern hd glass?
Sprayway spray can or Sparkle pink/purple pump (but not green). Nothing with ammonia (like windex) as it will degrade the anti-glare coating.
Sprayway is available at Target and Walmart. I like it best, but sparkle is very good, too.
Quoted from sballswin:I have a back lit LED always on in my Baxter and pizza slice inserts. The main LED lights in them when they are in use or going through the maintenance test. The photo is right after a drain and all lamps go out. What would the fix be?
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The pizza is a standalone LED board (soldered). You can't unplug from the light board at the light. It's connected to CN5 on Node board 8b (same one Baxter is on), though. Check there.
You can disconnect at the board on the Baxter one, though.
If reconnecting the connectors on the baxter board, as well as the CN3 connector on Node board 8 the Baxter board is connected to doesn't do it, I'd look at re-imaging a new SD card. This is the kind of weird thing I might expect of a bad SD card.
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Is there anything i can do to make the left outlane left hungry? My level bubble is dead center
I just realized there's no moveable post on the left. I guess putting a thicker rubber on the star post or the lane post is about the only option.
Quoted from Maverick87:anybody seeing any dimpling? I have some spots where the van drops out the balls and was wondering if anyone else had anything like that?
Overall this has been one of the best Stern playfields in quite a while where playfield craters are concerned. Extremely mild dimpling only. The playfield clear is noticibly thinner, but it looks nice here, even after hundreds of plays.
Quoted from JodyG:Hopefully going to play the pro on Friday. The more I watch streams, the more I get flashbacks to Ghostbusters with the high percentage of bricky shots and short ball times. Anyone else feeling this way, or are all the streamers just taking a while to find their shots?
It's a different layout, and that third flipper into the inner loop or middle ramp requires high-precision shot timing to get the one you actually want when the ball comes screaming around the top. I think people's muscle memory is taking time to adjust.
Quoted from Flipper-airbrush:Cowabunga.
Today was the presentation of the turtles airbrush kit from us, thank you again to RB Flip France for awesome pictures
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Wow, I especially like the lockdown bar.
Is that the official Stern topper?
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I never installed mirror blades, can they easily removed when selling the machine?
are they prone to scratches like my art blades on JP?
They're more prone to visible scratches and scuffs than Stern art blades. I hate them.
Quoted from Chubbie:Random question but my machine was shipped to me with German as the core/base language. I changed it to English in game settings but the machine still defaults to German for certain things - like the new “Spielcode update”. Anyone know how to set the thing in English permanently or was this just a machine destined for Germany but somehow found its way to my game lab?
Check the dip switches on the CPU board. 1 through 8 should be off for USA.
Quoted from Medisinyl:A lot of us are having the ball fly off the left habitrail, and I'll eventually have this mod available that fixes the issue. Had only posted it in the mod thread thus far: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-medisinyl-mods-tmnt-mod-development-thread-[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That looks great!
Quoted from BustedPin:Pro here, does anyone else have the Cowabunga insert and the Baxter Stockman insert always dimly lit even when they're supposed to be off?
In the pictures it appears brighter than it actually is but in a dim room how we usually play you can notice it.
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Three mentions in the last two pages from different owners.
Quoted from BustedPin:I searched this thread and didn't find a mention, I read your reply, I go back one page and there they are <rolling my eyes>. Oh well, thanks. Looks like it's a common thing albeit not supposed to happen.
Off topic, I'm looking forward to getting my order soon, thanks again.
It happens. Strange that it popped up with a number of people at once. Wonder if it's related to the 1.10 update...
Your order should ship out tomorrow. I've been buried with TMNT orders and was OOS on some odds and ends that require special gel colors as well as Spooky fans for a bit waiting for a restock to come from the factory, so I had a LOT of orders to ship out this week.
Quoted from BustedPin:It's not related to 1.10 in my case. My game came with 1.04 and had the problem, I updated to 1.10 before posting in the hopes the node board update would fix the problem but nope.
Regarding the order, thanks and no rush. I might do the other inserts later although my kids seem to like the clear inserts so lets see.
Hmm. What's the build date on the back of your machine? I wonder if it was made around the same time as @rapiddraw's and the other person I can't remember a page back...
Quoted from BENETNATH:Is it us or this game is damn nasty?
Outlanes are still on higher but stdm and Outlanes are really hungry!!
Doesn't seem especially abusive to me.
Quoted from billrz:Can’t seem to update code . Used 3 different formatted sticks. It’s seems I can’t unzip the file? It needs to be unzipped,what program do people use for this ?? Please !!
winrar on windows. You cannot use the built-in windows unzip, it messes up the files for some reason. You need to unzip on the hard disk NOT the USB. Unzip the files, then copy them to the root of the USB.
Quoted from joefox22:[quoted image]
Stern is the Heathkit of the 21st century, whether you know that's what you're buying or not.
Quoted from ctl723:Just unboxed my LE. These playfields do still seem to be susceptible to bubbling/pooling where the apron + guides touch down. I'm going through adding some felt washers like I did on Jurassic Park before it potentially gets worse and chips. Also, the left outlane post was clearly designed for a small post. They pulled back the artwork for that but later changed it to a star post which is starting to pool a bit. Hopefully shouldn't be too bad since it's rarely hit and doesn't have a ring applying diagonal pressure to it. Either way, I think it's worth protecting these spots early if you can.
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You can remove that star post and iron the area flat again with a vinyl repair iron, then stick a mylar ring on it before re-applying the post.
This is known as the "JJP method" that Yelobird (I believe?) came up with. Seems to work great long term, sort of forcing a cure in the process of fixing the pooling.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:As long as they are not designing new metal aprons or use another mounting system this problem will persist.
Those sharp edges will dig in over time. I have had to use two big washers on my JP2, since the screw hole is big and conical. Needless to say it looks awful. I guess alot of buyers also just accept this... and its the same with ball guides.
Most of my JP2 and DP ball guides are suffering from mild slicing/chipping, just look closely. IMO they should design every machine with washers, and yes - you have to calculate those extra inches before, it makes a difference and can cause problems after installing washers later.
What would this cost Stern for one machine? about 5$ max? (Of course WE would love to pay the 5$ extra...)
In exchange for happier customers, and not seeing all your stern games damaged after 2 years.
win win
Why not just put a 1/2" mylar flattened "V" where the apron contacts the playfield in front?
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:Anyone have a issue with the Glider?
Mine seems to have stopped working?
LE 137
Cheap servos. Yours probably died. They are not built for the kind of duty being asked of them.
Quoted from NathanN:My pro looks phenomenal as well. Had a friend / tech over and we talked about how nice the PF was.. it is crazy to see LE having this many issues.. wild how pros are good but LE are not??
I think the environment (temp/humidity) during playfield manufacture and cure someone suggested may actually explain it. The pro playfields were made before it got hot and humid. Sounds like an investment in climate control for temp AND humidity for at least the playfield production and curing area is a needed investment.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:I’ve been lucky - last ten LEs have had none of this chipping or pooling. My GB had the ghosting stern swapped though playfield. I just don’t understand why after appearing to have it resolved we see it again. Who runs manufacturing? time we had his head as a bash toy!
I really think the environmental angle of what the heat/humidity is when the playfields are made may be the key since there's no climate-controlled enviroment for the playfields to cure.
Quoted from pinballaddicted:How do other guys make playfields? Like CGC, same conditions as STERN.
Maybe they allow more cure time? Dunno.
Quoted from pinballaddicted:CGC do not have climate control and they do not have these issues. GCG are also located in the same city as Stern.
But again, perhaps they are allowing more time to cure.
Quoted from RikeIsland:Even after seeing all the issues again with the clear coat I am still exited as hell for my TMNT.
Haha. A covert way to say you're out?
Quoted from Mando:Topper ?? [quoted image]
A giant one of those that moves and follows the ball (simply, like moving to the shooter lane when waiting for the next ball, then centering on you when it launches) and turns red when things happen in the game would be cool, but I really like that TMNT marquee one someone made. That looked GREAT, even though it was essentially just duplicating what was on the backglass.
Quoted from daveyvandy:For all of this topper talk, I went back and made my custom topper interactive!
First, use some T-Taps to cleanly splice into the existing flashers.
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If you have never used them, they are pretty simple. Crimp down the folding part onto your existing wire and crimp down the spade connector to your new wire then attach the two by sliding the spade in. No soldering required!
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Run all of the wires up through the back box - yeah I know I could have saved a bunch of wires by using one 5v source but I was feeling lazy.
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Made a quick connect harness for when I eventually move the machine (the topper comes off easily with two screws too).
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Put some color-coded flashers under each character.
Some flasher colors (like orange and purple) were not available so I used some color filters (amazon.com link »)
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The finished product!
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Attract mode:
More videos that I am too lazy to upload to YouTube:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rusaWnx9CEbdG1tG6
I especially like what happens when you start multi-ball
How many amps are you drawing away? You have to be careful with the Spike system, it's pretty fragile. I wouldn't tap until I knew the draw of everything on that line and the total max draw of what I was adding.
Quoted from daveyvandy:That's a good point. I am using the matrix flashers from Comet pinball. I don't see any data sheets for them so it's hard to know the amp draw. I don't have an ammeter either. Any suggestions?
I have had it set up for a couple weeks, and no problems yet.
I guess if I do have problems with the boards it's from my own doing lol.
Your multimeter doesn't measure amps?
Maybe email comet and see if they can give you the amp draw of their matrix flashers. Killing a node board over time from drawing too much power with mods is an expensive lesson. Better to avoid it.
Quoted from NathanN:I have a pro with no washer under it, slight pooling around the star post but no where else
I'd vinyl repair iron it out, stick a mylar ring on it and you're fixed. Yelobird pioneered the technique on jjPotC and it's been an awesome way to address these pooled areas before they become a problem. The heat seems to cure the clear more so it's harder at that area and doesn't pool again.
Quoted from joelbob:Do you have a link that explains how to do this?
Someone beat me to it. It does work, I did it, too. GREAT solution for a long-term fix.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:shoot the 2x target.
Anyone can tell me how i get rid of the sticky residure on the backbox from the protective foil?
I tried isopropanol, soap and some kind of car clean rubber. nothing helps!
Goo gone. NOT Goof Off. Goo gone.
Quoted from Aniraf:Can we all just agree this shot is impossible and the game is terrible because of it?
I’m kidding, but really. It is impossible right? The only way I can make the shot on my machine is to bank it off of the April target.
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It's hard, but it's not impossible. The amount of rejects it spawns is something that should have been fixed in development at Stern, though.
Quoted from zeagle:Dumb question here but I'm still waiting for my premium and it will be my first pinball machine. When you install the latest code does that install all the previous code updates as well or do you have to install every new code (if that makes sense)?
The current code update is a rollup that has all prior updates already, so you just need to install each latest version as they come out.
Quoted from cooked71:So apart from the diverter, the only other gameplay difference between the pro and PreLe is the ball lock?
The pizza spinner is multi-directional on the Prem/LE, too. More like the jjPotC one.
Quoted from durgee7:Based on the pics, I have noticed differences in the black edges (example is top edge of turtlecom above screen). Seems like the good pics show solid black where the grainy ones appear diluted and grayish? I'll have to see once mine arrives.
Very close up it looks crappy. I think it's just the nature of the stern ink jet vs screened beast. Mine looks fine from just a foot or so away with good gradients and vivid colors, but if you zoom in with a telephoto lens you can see the ink jet grain.
Quoted from durgee7:I hope you're right. I just checked my DP Pro and it looks pretty good up close (April 2019 build date). It's challenging to use photos instead of eyes when comparing.
To my naked eyes, mine looks great, but if I zoom in with an EOS 7D Mark II and blow that up, the ink jetiness is clear. If it looks bad to the naked eye, that's likely a problem, but if people are blowing the art up on closeup, they're going to find the nature of the beast.
Quoted from TheCapn:Upon doing a google search before posting my question - that is all I found. Was curious if there were anything else out there that maybe was better or if someone has swapped to this one and noticed a big difference.
There is nothing better (I know, I iterated a bunch of fans to find the best solution back when my search started) and it makes a huge difference.
Here's the DIY fan replacement thread I started a couple years ago that turned into the plug and play kit you can buy now. The DIY tips still work if you want to spend the time to make your own...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stern-spike-noisy-ps-fans
Quoted from Phatchit:Just picked up 3 pros for a client and set them up to make sure they all play great out of box . I did go and look at the playfields . 1 looks great and the other 2 are grainy . The other thing I noticed was that one of them has a lighter shade of green on the tmolding . I will say this is a fun game . Still need to get some time on it to get it down , but think it will turn out to be a good game .
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Did you take the protective plastic off the T-molding? It looks like one side has it off and the other 3 still have it on, changing the color.
Quoted from mahony:You seem to be right. I clicked on the pic with the heads down, zoomed in and you can see the protective plastic on all of them except the one that's different.
Zen training.
Quoted from cooked71:At least you get a nice choice now:
Option 1: Pooling clearcoat around posts and good printing;
OR
Option 2: No pooling clearcoat around posts but crappy printing.
Pick your poison.
Pooling but good art is 100% the best choice. You can fix the pooling with the vinyl repair kit iron and you're good to go. If you have the crappy PF printing, you're screwed forever.
Quoted from ricard2798:Now, asking for real, doi have any recourse to address the grainy and banding art? Or will stern just say something as to the likes of "imperfections on this garment are normal, and provide character to the piece"?
This is where what distributor you bought it from really matters. Work through them.
Quoted from Wallofnoise:Anyone see this before? What is this “dirt” on my playfield and how could it have gotten on it? The balls were cleaned beforehand.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Black rubber and dust from the stainless lane guides make a mess over time.
Quoted from ChicagoGuy:I initially thought that was the case, but it is not the culprit. Every time the balls stack up, I’ve removed the glass and looked since I needed to dislodge the stuck balls. The diverter is not lodged in the ramp. Any other thoughts? [quoted image]
It just looks like it's not opening fully. There's a set screw underneath you can loosen and then adjust so when it's open, it's touching the opposite wall. Looks like right now it's only about 7/8th open or less. Might also need to bend the guide a little so it's curved the right way. Looks like they riveted it on upside down.
Quoted from Thunderbird:Interesting, because once I’ve changed out the original rubbers to Titans, I’ve never seen any dirt or dust of any kind on the PF. Coil or otherwise and have always thought if there was coil dust, it would be on the underside of the PF, where the coils are actually located.
On the top of the playfield it's most likely to be steel dust from the lane guides. Still looks black like coil dust because the coil dust is from the steel parts of them, too. Both kinds of dust are ground steel.
If you re-do a machine and polish out the lane guides to a mirror finish, they shed a lot less dust - like almost none. I've never understood people putting grain back on stainless when they refurb a machine. Grain is there because that steel is cheaper at manufacture, not because it's a good finish.
Quoted from nitroman28:That's me. I would rather have the clear problems. 6k and a 100.00 inkjet playfield.
You can fix the clear pooling. You're stuck with the bad print quality. I'd take soft clear issues over print quality issues all day if I have to pick a defect.
The first run pros will be the desirable ones - good print quality AND mostly or fully cured clear.
Quoted from Thomas3184:Which is ironic because first runs went to location where they don’t care as much.
Given that a ton of locations were closed the whole time or closed then open then closed, etc. I doubt most of them saw much play.
Quoted from kell:What's the likelihood that the pooling chips and what causes it to chip? I'd rather not try my luck fixing it if it can be avoided.
It will chip eventually. jjPotC proved that. The vinyl repair iron works and is cheap. Take it slow and you'll be fine.
Quoted from acons017:Congrats man! I’m expecting my premium Thursday. It’s also my first pin.
Sorry for the silly question, but is common practice to wax a new pin before using it? I thought they were good to go out of the box. If so I better get my hands on some wax. Any suggestions?
Good out of the box. Enjoy it immediately.
Quoted from RoyalJack:Interesting note on My premium playfield. It is labeled LE and dated 6/16/20 although it was built in August?
[quoted image]
Premiums are just LEs without the extra stuff. The only playfield difference is Pros and LE. Premiums draw from the LE playfield pool, usually. The date is your playfield birthday, not your assembly date for the machine.
Quoted from Aquapin:Started working on my topper. Happy with the initial results, but need bigger figures or ?? (If you have other suggestions please share). If I stick with 4 figures I will likely add 4 individual leds that tap into there corresponding flasher on the PF.
Logo protrudes about 2" and is back-lit in green. The lower section has an RGB so it can be any colour and pulses.
[quoted image]
Definitely has potential. Like the partial manhole cover motif. With larger characters (or even busts) it could be really good.
Quoted from acons017:Oh man how do I get myself one of these!?
I was just posting to show that I'm almost done with the bracket design and it's going well (finally - it was a tough start). All the hard stuff is worked out. It'll be in the pinmonk store here on pinside and at pinmonk.com when they're finished.
Quoted from gumnut01:What happened to the code drop?
I was wondering the same thing. How did people know there was one supposedly coming today? Did Xaqery say it was coming?
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:I switched out the red t-molding on my Premium to green. I used this: https://www.t-molding.com/3-4in-bright-green-t-molding.html - 20' is enough to do both sides and gives enough left over to re-do one side if you mess up.
I did keep the original red molding, lays nicely in the bottom of the cab.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Neon green is the correct color for this pin's t-molding. Red just looks wrong.
Quoted from kh39540:So what are these holes for? Now that I've noticed them, they bug the piss out of me.[quoted image]
Flipper alignment.
Quoted from RoyalJack:I actually like the Red. In the original photos I thought it was a purple/pink color like the ooze so was surprised to see red when I unboxed mine. But I think its a nice call out to the original comics where they all started with red bandanas.
I was more talking about visual continuity on the machine itself. If you really want to nerd-out, red is picking a turtle. Green is turtle-neutral.
Quoted from Viggin900:O played this game for the first time last week. I really enjoyed it however would anybody agree it is just like DeadPool? I can't imagine owning both? Gameplay is different but the animations, voices seem the same.
It's nothing like Deadpool. Even has a different amount of flippers. They do both have two flipper buttons, a lockdown bar button and a screen, though. Maybe that's the confusion.
Quoted from Xaqery:This is in the next code release.
Was that delayed from last week? People seemed convinced it was coming thursday, but then...nothing.
Quoted from MadPole:Help!
I know I saw a post somewhere in this forum about a mod for TMNT that I'm interested in. The mod is a frame to go around the turtle characters above the shooter lane. It looked great!
I know I saw it, but I'll be damned if I can find the thread again.
Anyone seen it?
It was in a "progress" post in this thread a week or so ago. It's not quite done yet. I was just posting what it looks like since it's turning out pretty rad. Should be in the pinmonk store in a few weeks.
turtle-select (resized).jpg
Just to give you an idea, this is the kind of time-consuming iterating I'm doing to find the final design. This is a version that came after the initial post with heavy green frames and a heavy green outline around the whole bracket. I think it's too much green that conflicts with the weapons, so I'm making one without the green frames around the selection windows and just having a green frame around the whole bracket. That one will likely be the final look, but I haven't printed it yet.
turtle-select2 (resized).jpg
Quoted from zeldarioid:This is a fun mod!
The framing is nice and helps each turtle pop, though I agree that the green framing and green weapons so close together muddles things a bit. Wonder if other colors would work; what about framing each turtle with their respective color? Would that be too messy looking?
It's not an issue of mess, it's an issue of time. Each color change is a filament change when printing. Two colors is what's practical, MAYYYYBE three for something really awesome. Otherwise it's arts and crafts time for the buyers to paint on their own if they want more colors. 
Turtle Select is done. The green frame around the whole bracket without green frames on each window was the way to go. The kit will replace all the hardware with the screen printed plastic and light board, getting rid of the giant ugly steel screws on top to really clean up the look, and also replace the board spacers on the bottom. It will contain:
1 x Turtle Select bracket
1 x Light board bracket
1 x Light board retaining clip
2 x Wafer-top mounting screws (to attach it back to the stainless bracket)
2 x #4 1/2" stainless flat top screw (to attach Light board bracket to the Turtle Select bracket)
Printing them now to have some stock to send out once I add them to the store and also to figure out how much time is in each set so I can set a price. They'll be in the pinmonk store here on pinside and at pinmonk.com next week.
Quoted from TheHoss:I’m having a few issues with my TMNT Premium.
1st: The auto plunger mech is having a hard time launching the ball up the ramp and around to the turtle van. Most of the time, the ball barely makes it to the short plunge ramp. This is a problem, because the game needs to reload the van after a multiball, and when it can’t, balls start stacking up in the shooter lane.
Picture of your shooter lane with a ball in it where the plunger rod and auto launch forks are clearly visible.
My *guess* on the ball lock problem is that it was assembled backwards at Stern with the switch for ball 1 being registered to 2 and the switch for ball 2 being actually switch 1. Put the game in switch test mode and roll a ball in there, and see what switch activates.
Quoted from TheHoss:While switch test is running, & ball entering lock, it shows switches upper lock 3,2,1 activate. Some tests show upper lock 1 stays activated as ball rests on lock post, some tests show upper lock 2 activated as ball comes to rest. The coil then fires to release lock.
So that's your lock problem. You need to make sure that lock 2 isn't activating on ball 1. It may be a sticky switch or the switch dragging on something (which is why it only happens most of the time, not all the time). Adjust switch 2.
Quoted from TheHoss:Running switch test now.
[quoted image]
1. What's your auto-launch power set to? Feature adjustment 10.
2. What's your game pitch set at?
3. The right fork on your auto launcher isn't even with the left one. The left fork may be launching the ball into the shooter wall, robbing it of power. I'd slo-mo record the launch with your phone and see what's happening.
Quoted from TheHoss:Thank you much! You lead me right to the fixes. So, on my pin, the lock post wasn't positioned perfectly in the hole through playfield, and the optical sensors that detect locked balls were mounted as far forward as possible, which means when you lock ball one, it was pushed into ball 2's sensor. I moved both mechanisms away from each other, and I haven't had any more lock problems or ball searches. Also, you were dead on about my auto plunger, I bent the right side in just a hair more, and I'm now getting almost 100% successful auto launches. Balls are loading into the van correctly, multi balls are starting correctly, it's running like a dream. Thank you so very much. When she's working as intended, this game is FUN!
Great news. This is just garden variety tweaking for a NIB experience, but it can be frustrating if you're expecting a fabulous, fully tuned pin out of the box.
It is a very fun game. Glad you can enjoy it now!
Quoted from Pinballnewb01:What are the overall thoughts of the scoring?
I find it not as rewarding as I want it to be.
Feels grindy, but it may be that I just don't understand the big picture yet.
WoZ is pretty low scoring, but I still feel satisfied with the work in vs the score out. That equation seems off with TMNT as of yet. It's great fun to shoot, but I am usually unsatisfied with the amount of work I do for the score I get.
Quoted from skankingaround:Just unboxing my TMNT pro - the corner of the cab caught my eye - is this standard? Anything to be concerned about ?
Other corners seem ok
[quoted image][quoted image]
Get a brace on that. Cabinet is splitting at the seam.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reinforcing-stern-cabinet-legs-step-by-step
I think the stern brace is fun size. Williams braces are full size.
Quoted from Xaqery:I think I can find a compromise. I love the very short pulse when the disc begins to spin for a couple seconds. It makes sense to me that the game would shake a bit when a giant pizza starts to spin. I think I might remove the shake from the disc stopping.
I also think I can find a couple other areas to add some shakes too. I also think I can tweak some of the existing shaking to be a bit more interesting.
You could also have the short or light pulses drop off if the shaker isn't set to Maximal. That way the user has control over what shaking effects they want to some degree. The small/short/light ones would only be felt if "maximal" is set on the settings.
Quoted from mbrave77:As someone did a few pages ago I just replaced the post rubbers the game comes with. MY GOD they are hard as rocks. I played a few games after replacing and dont notice much difference, maybe the right ramp is a bit more forgiving...
They're not really post rubber, they're post sleeves. They're supposed to be hard, not spongy like rubber.
Quoted from acons017:Anyone? Reference to post #3083
Most likely tour servo is failing/has failed. Pretty well documented by now. Call your dist or Stern for a replacement for the cheap crap they used.
Quoted from acons017:Holy crap! Pinstadium Fusions really take this game to a whole new level. Big thank you to Scott pinstadium for these and the easy set up instructions.
Check out the vids below. Video #3 has a surprise thanks to delt31 and his awesome work with the music.
Video 1:
Video 2:
Video 3:
I think I just had a seizure.
I turn the insert LEDs down from Stern stock settings. This is way, WAY too much for me personally.
It's nice the option is there for the young'uns that want this, but it's really not responsible that Pinstadium won't post the frequency range of his lighting. I'm pretty sure some of it dips into dark blue to UV wavelengths, which can damage eyes permanently with exposure over time.
Quoted from acons017:I think it may be the lighting effects from the camera. Definitely easier on the eyes and looks better in person. I’ll try lowering the LED’s and see how it looks.
Can’t go back to a no-pinstadium existence. These are so great!
At the very least you should see if, as a customer, you can get him to give you the light frequency range of his lighting so you know if you're doing long term damage to your eyes over time by using light that dips from dark blues into the UV range (the purple-y blues are the ones to be concerned about).
Quoted from acons017:Thanks will look into it. Just purchased one of your turtle select overlays today. Looks sharp. Great work my man!
Thanks. I think you'll really like the bracket. It was an enormous pain to figure out, but turned out pretty cool.
Quoted from acons017:It looks like it was tough! I was following all your progress along the way. Looks very professional and can’t wait to cover up those screws!
Yeah, Stern going crazy with giant pan-head stainless screws on the face of plastics is a huge pet peeve of mine. With just the most superficial of engineering they could hide a LOT of this, or by switching to small black wafer head screws they could at least make them less gigantic and obvious. Ah, well, they'll keep doing Stern, and details like this will keep irritating me.
Quoted from cooked71:I heard rumours Scott has embedded some subliminal messages in those lights.
This is clearly evidenced by the way his devotees become obsessed and feel they have to promote Pinstadiums wherever and whenever they can.[quoted image]
I understand the excitement over a cool overwhelming light show as a new experience. It's not for me, but I think full power LED light is too piercing anyway, because I'm old and cranky. I have to turn Sterns WAY down to get them to enjoyable. Pinstadiums are overload for me, but people like what they like, and I'm not going to tell them not to because they're not me.
My main concern with Pinstadiums is the reluctance of them to responsibly post the full light frequencies emitted by them when long term exposure to the shorter wavelengths (which they pretty clearly seem to be using) could be an eye damage/health issue.
Quoted from chuckwurt:All I can say is there is no UV light in those. It’s just purple. The only UV he makes is the one for stranger things.
UV-adjacent is still bad. Anything in the blue spectrum is short wave and bad over time. What's the problem with publishing the light wave spectrum his product covers so his customers can make an informed decision? He can also block out eye-damaging frequencies in his app if the user checks a box or something so they can't be selected. It's not like he has to stop selling his product by admitting there are potentially bad wavelengths in there (if there are, but it seems very likely).
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:Is the premium worth the extra cheddar on this title? Need reliability for location play
I'd be concerned about the glider servos burning out until that is verified to be fixed once and for all if you're thinking about putting it out on location. Aside from that. Premium.
Quoted from gumnut01:Hey, I still have the gunky sticky stuff on the t-moulding after I took off the protective plastic. Any easy way to clean it off?
Goo gone (NOT goof off).
Liquid:
https://www.amazon.com.au/Goo-Gone-Original-Liquid-Adhesive/dp/B00006IBNJ
Or the gel I prefer:
https://www.amazon.com.au/Goo-Gone-Adhesive-Remover-Spray/dp/B07PVBD58K
Quoted from bigd1979:Any adjustment on the left ? Left drain kills me on the pro
Someone put one of those cabinet door close spacer rubber dots on the wall at the left outlane and it reduced bounce-outs and drains to levels more in line with the right side. Desperate times call for desperate measures. Wonder why Borg didn't make the left post adjustable??
I keyposted the post with the fix. Look at the topic index at the top of the page for "Left Outlane Fix"
Quoted from mbrave77:Dont think anyome replied to my center ramp issue. Sometimes it doesnt register hitting it. Mainly when hitting it right after the right ramp. Anyone else have this?
What is the mechanism that registers center ramp hits?
Center ramp is just the optos at the exit that register the hit. Check the alignment of the optos. If the alignment is fine, cover the bottom 1/3 to bottom 1/2 of the opto eyes with electrical tape to cut down the beam. send/receive.
How often is "sometimes"?
Quoted from billrz:Does everybody’s pizza have this much movement ? While it’s not spinning. How am I suppose to level the pizza with the playfield when it has this much movement ?
I can’t add video to this thread, had to upload to YouTube. Is that normal ?
Bracket might be loose or shaft might be loose or broken. No way to know without lifting the playfield.
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Hi
Anyone else notice their LE TMNT shooter coil getting weaker and weaker or their pro ?
Mine gradually gets worse
To the point where after Turtle Power MB
The balls cannot even stage back into van and game locks up
I’ve even raised the value on the coil setting for the shooter
Any ideas would be great
Thanks
Have you slo-moed a launch with your phone slo-mo recording? Checked the auto launch prongs to make sure they're resting evenly on the ball in the shooter lane?
Quoted from JackOfPots:I'm having a few issues. The first is that after a successful lair shot it often drops into the inlanes and bounces for a left outlane drain. I'd love some advice for that. Can't be intended and feels very awful. The second is that I'm not sure if the glider is working as designed. If I shoot a left ramp shot to try and build glider value or anything really it jerks the glider center and makes it go to the left flipper regardless if I have it on the right side or not. Also on the glider I try to manually calibrate it and can only calibrate the center position? If I move left and right to try and select another position it just chooses center again. It's calibrated much further right than left by default and can't figure out how to adjust it.
Go to the topic index at the top of the page. There's a link to a fix for this someone posted. If you don't want to do that you can add a ball save for that area in the settings.
Quoted from kh39540:Can't hit them. Can get close, just rarely make them.
Your pitch or balance might be off...
Quoted from Wallofnoise:I changed mine to 6.5 recently and I’m having trouble making the shots too. Wouldn’t 6.7 cause the game to be faster?
All the time, or just after playing for about 20-30 minutes? It takes about 20-30 minutes for TMNT to have coil temps that cause minor fade which can result in bricked or missed shots or incomplete ramps (especially backhands), mostly on the left coil on the one I have. If you do okay initially and then start having problems later in a session, it may be mild fade.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:- Had turtle power multiball going and eventually drained but my round/ball continued (like it didnt realized all the balls were in the trough). I turned it on, checked the trough, ran a switch test and everything looked fine. Hasnt happened again but will keep an eye on this one.
- My wife was playing and got turtle power multiball without hitting anything, makes me wonder if there is a switch that needs adjustment (the one that starts this multi-ball). Only happened once so we'll see.
The ramps start Turtle Power multiball, so check ramp switches.
Quoted from mbrave77:so Im still having trouble with my center ramp registering. It registers now like 50% of the time. This didnt happen when I had the game set steeper so maybe I need to move the legs back up.
My question is what is the device/switch that recognizes when the ball successfully hits the center ramp? Where is it? Can anyone provide a pic with an arrow?
I believe it's at the exit of the center ramp where the plastic ramp transitions to metal rails and the opto pair is. If you go into switch test mode and trigger it with your finger, you can verify that.
After you verify the optos work, might want to try wiggling the wires to each opto in the pair while in switch test mode to see if there's an intermittent connection.
Quoted from mbrave77:It seems the ramp is only messing up during 123 foot. Im guessing this is a 1.21 bug. Didnt happen before the update
I haven't noticed any issue finishing 1-2-3 foot with 1.21 on a Pro. Has anyone else?
Quoted from mbrave77:Pretty much anytime i hit right ramp and hit center ramp right after it doesnt register.
So the ball's going really fast around that center ramp?
I'd suggest slo-mo filming that opto area with your phone while you hit that ramp with switch mode active in the tests. You can feed the ball and see what switches are activating when you hit the ramp (and when they don't activate despite the ball passing the optos). If it's not a software bug, maybe it's either jumping the optos from the speed of that corner having the ball crawl up the wall, or it's going so fast the optos are missing it.
Slo-mo and diagnosing in switch test mode while you make that shot over and over should narrow this down.
Quoted from mbrave77:Was thinking of doing this. Wierd as it only started happening after software update/and or putting new post sleeves on. I did both at same time.
You can always go back and load to the prior version code and see if it was just coincidence that it started doing it when you upgraded the code...
Quoted from acons017:I’m finding that I’m having a hard time hitting some shots. The center loop is nearly impossible for to hit. Forget about making a smooth Krang Combo. If I hit it, most of the time it rattles out. If I’m just a little off (which is MOST of the time), it will hit the post just left to the ramp and shoot right down the center drain super fast. This type of drain happens easily 1-2 times per game.
The Beebop ramp also rattled out 1/3 Of the way up the ramp. I can’t for the life of me hit the ninja pizza parlor! It rattles out too most of the time.
Pitch is set to 6.6 (according to the Pinguy app set on the playfield).
Is anyone experiencing the same?
Pizza shop is rattly from the left flipper for me - it's not a straight shot. From the right flipper it's no problem. The center ramp and the LAIR are the only two shots that I have trouble with consistency, but I wouldn't call the center ramp one a problem, I just need to play better. The LAIR shot is bad design, plain and simple. WAY too many bounce outs due to the way it's set up at the entrance.
Quoted from acons017:The Pizza shop is nearly impossible for me to hit from the right flipper Though. Oddly enough, the lair shot is the one shot I can hit more consistently. I’m more comfortable hitting the lair shot than the ramps since I’m having issues with those too. I think it may be my pitch. Whats yours set to?
6.5
Quoted from zeldarioid:All of a sudden, the Donatello and Raphael lights on the turtle select over the shooter lane are always on. Has anyone else had this problem? I don’t see anything touching externally that would make both LEDs have a constant connection, so I’m wondering if maybe it could be a software bug somehow?
My machine has also been restarting itself today, a few times, though I’m not able to reliably reproduce the steps yet. It seems to happen when I reset back to attract mode, try to start a fresh game, and then instead of being able to select a turtle, it just auto-chooses (I think Leo), the pizza spinner runs like crazy, then the game restarts itself.
Maybe related? Not sure how I could check for a software bug, outside of hoping Stern would reply? I don’t have an older version of the TMNT software, apparently, and Stern doesn’t offer archived versions as far as I could see (maybe upon request?), so I can’t do what I wanted to do to try and debug, which was the reload an older version of software and then come back to v1.21.
Re-image a *brand new, just taken from the package* SD card and try that. Stern uses the cheapest bulk SD cards and they fail more than they should.
Quoted from zeldarioid:I cleared my SD card, re-downloaded a fresh SD image from Stern for v1.21, put it on the SD card and reinstalled on the machine, and the issue of Donatello and Raphael being constantly lit is still present. Seems something I can't update from a simple reinstall, at least of the same version. Must be something that has to happen at the node level, which is more of a bummer. I don't know if reverting to an older version of code would even reformat the node boards; I imagine once they're updated with later firmware, they stay put. Perhaps it'll require another update to the node boards, or the ability to somehow wipe so that the latest can be reapplied?
Will reach out to Stern, I suppose =/
Erasing the bad card still leaves you with...a bad card. Try a completely new one.
Quoted from zeldarioid:I have tried a fresh v1.21 image on both the stock Stern card, as well as one that I've purchased from the store and have been running on, and there is no difference.
What was the brand of the new SD card?
You could try swapping node boards 8 and 9 (while setting the dip switches appropriately) and see if the problem moves or disappears. The Turtle select lights are hooked into node 8
Quoted from zeldarioid:The brand of the SD card is the same as the stock Stern, incidentally, though it’s a larger card (16GB over the stock 8GB) - Adata brand.
Can you explain the swapping node boards and dip switches thing? I’m new to debugging pinball machines That said, I have taken a multimeter to the pins that correspond to Donnie and Raph’s turtle select LEDs on node 8, and verified that they are both indeed (obviously) receiving a constant 5-6v. I tried unplugging the Serial In plug from node 8, but that didn’t do anything either.
Node 8 and 9 are the same board. You just have to change the dip switches when you swap them so that the machine recognizes they've changed addresses. Just take a lot of pictures before you start unplugging things and you'll be fine. If the problem moves or goes away, you have identified the original node 8 board as the issue. If it doesn't, then it's one of the other boards.
I've had trouble getting the screws I wanted for one part of the Turtle Select bracket (it was supposed to be here early last week so I could start shipping these out, but the package has been on a tour of the US for going on the 3rd week and still not here). So, I just redesigned one of the pieces to take longer screws. It takes a little longer to print, but it has solved the problem with screws I have on hand and can easily restock.
So as the reprinted part comes off the line, I'll be getting out the backorders for this bracket kit that have stacked up. I think you'll really like it.
Tonight I took pictures of the bracket installed (no additional holes required) in an alternate location that I actually prefer. Here's what it looks like:
TMNT_Select_alternate_install_500x667.jpg
Quoted from zeldarioid:Forgive my ignorance, but that is still a bit of a foreign language to me I have located the dip switches on node boards 8 and 9, as well as found what their addresses are in the manual, but I’m still not sure what the “swapping” portion refers to. It sounds like a separate and larger act than flicking the switches on the dips to make 8 addressed as 9 and 9 addressed as 8, but without having taken part in this conversation before, I couldn’t say.
By “swapping” those nodes, do you mean to physically swap all connections from one board to the other? I.e. move whatever is plugged into CN2 on node 8 to the CN2 spot on node 9, and vice versa?
You physically unplug everything from node 8 and take the board out, then do the same for node 9. Then set the old node 8 to node 9 dip switch settings and install it at node 9 location and plug everthing back in, then do the opposide for the old node 9 - change the dip switches to node 8 settings and install it at node 8's old location.
Quoted from zeldarioid:Thank you for the clarification! Figured it would be prudent to make sure I understood the intention before doing all of that. I appreciate the help!
Take lots of pictures from different angles before you start unplugging so you have a reference to put it all back.
Quoted from J_pinz:Does anyone have any airball issues on the left ramp? I'm finding the bumpers on the left and right side of the left ramp are causing nasty airballs. Curious if anyone has any solution before my glass cracks
You mean the two targets? You can get a bracket that angles them down like 5 degrees, which kills airballs dead. It worked great on Ghostbusters' left ramp which had a similar problem.
But I haven't had airballs on the Pro personally at 6.5 degrees pitch. What pitch are you at?
Quoted from zeldarioid:Made the swap, including updating the dip switches, and the problem stays the same. So, seemingly, it has nothing to do with node 8 itself, but possibly one of the downstream boards, or something in the code?
Yeah, likely one of the 8b, 8c, etc boards. I don't think it's code (unless we're back to a bad SD) because it's not doing it on the TMNT Pro with current code here.
Quoted from J_pinz:It is from the targets. It seems the left target doesn’t cause airballs but the right one does. I saw the piece they made for Ghostbusters. I thought there may have been a better solution as that part is expensive. I have mine at 6.5 pitch as well.
It's well worth the cost. Fixes the problem completely in my experience with Ghostbusters.
Quoted from acons017:Will this also dampen the incredibly speedy reboundS off of those targets?
Probably not. But it does keep them down on the playfield.
Quoted from pinballonthemark:We have the same issue with our glider fidgeting on the Premium. When we press the action button it moves to the left and doesn't wiggle, but when I press the action button to rotate it to the right it starts shaking again. Anybody have a fix? Afraid we will burn out the servos.
Pretty sure that means it's already burned out, at least going by everyone else's posts.
Quoted from plasticbugs:I’m on the waiting list for a TMNT premium. Where can I buy a TMNT Pro translite to replace the Premium one which I don’t like as much? I don’t see it in Stern’s online store.
Email terry at pinballlife.com he can likely set you up.
Quoted from acons017:Same here. For me it’s the top half of the playfield. Really annoying.
Take out the GI bulbs a section at a time. Add them back one at a time and test. You likely have a shorted GI LED. When you add a bulb back and the problem returns, that's the one that's bad. It can cause this behavior.
Quoted from acons017:I haven’t pinpointed what triggers the bulbs will go dark just yet (multiball, etc), but when I do find the pattern I’ll do just that. Thanks!
If you take out 2 or 3 at a time and just play it, you can narrow it down to the bad bulb without needing to know when exactly it happens (which may not even be triggered by the software). You can also see if any of the GI bulbs are flickering, which is sometimes a sign the Stern cheap LEDs are bad or going bad.
Quoted from Pinballnewb01:Hi guys, I have a small issue with my TMNT Pro.
Sometimes when I hit the upper post of the middle ramp, the opto switch from this ramp registers a shot (like it made that ramp shot).
How can I (try to) fix this?
You mean a bricked shot?
Put the game in switch test mode, make sure the coin door is closed or the bypass pin pulled so the playfield has power then hit the playfield firmly with your open palm at various locations and see if it triggers switches (including the optos). Sounds like you have a vibration problem and that should help you narrow down the issue. It may be a frayed opto wire grounding from vibration or something.
Quoted from cooked71:Why? They are two independent games.
I think they're just saying that Avenger's layout looked really awesome in print and people were like, "Avengers is the new hotness." But then it was shown later being played at the reveal and it was much less exciting and bricky in action with limited or underwhelming software/music/calls. So at that point TMNT's stock went back up.
That's not to say Avengers can't end up great (Deadpool made huge leaps and became fun later), but the reveal was underwhelming for a lot of people.
Quoted from cooked71:But Tmnt and AIQ can both be great at the same time. Not sure why Tmnt’s “stock” is at all related to AIQ? Both look like really solid games.
It doesn't have to make sense. I'm just explaining what they were talking about.
Quoted from Blacksnow:Just out of curious have any of you ordered Playfield Protectors from Cointaker? I assumed they would all be the same or at least similar. With the help of RetrogamerJP I removed the ramps and tedious plastics to install the Playfield Protector for my TMNT Premium before plunging a ball. After tear down and then reinstalling all the parts only to be 3 days out and the Playfield Protector is curling? At the edges, at the top of the playfield, by the flippers, around the spinner disc. It is terrible! I will make a shot around the right orbit and the ball will get stuck under the top of the protector because it is curling so bad? Has anybody else had this problem? It was curling right when I installed it but I was hoping it would settle. I emailed them and they shipped a new one out with out asking. I explained that it took me like 3-4 hours to remove and document via pictures, ziploc bags etc to make sure I put it back together properly, cleaned the playfield, installed the protector and all the time to reinstall the pieces. They just told me if I don’t want the new one they can just give me a return label and I can send it back. I dont know if the CSR understands the time involved (which I did explain) to install the protectors but I am really hesitant to install the new one and have the same issues. I thought I would check on here before even considering installing a new one. I just wish Stern made solid playfields and I didnt have to worry about this nonsense.
Your machine is rejecting the playfield protector. Take its hint and just wax the machine regularly without a protector and enjoy it.
Quoted from Chalkey:Here is a 4 second video of my lair shot up post trapping the ball under the plastic. Can someone start a training mode and let me know if the post is not being held as long as it should be? This only happens when training is lit and shows you what shots you need. The switch seems to be working as it should, and this started right after the latest code update.
That's not a helpful angle. Can you shoot it from lane-level or lane-ish level?
So, RetroGamerJP let me know that the mounting of the factory TMNT turtle select plastic is different on the Prem/LE because of the launch ramp the Prem/LE have that the Pro doesnt. So, for the Turtle Select bracket kit to work with the Prem/LE, I'll need to include 2 hex standoff spacers and two screws, but everything else in the kit fits.
If I've sent you a bracket already and you have a Prem/LE, hit me up and I'll send you the standoffs and screws. The brackets that haven't gone out yet will have the standoffs and screws added to the kits. I'll be updating the instruction illustrations for Prem/LE, but that will be a few weeks out. Until then, I'll put some simple text instructions on how to use the hex standoffs on Prem/LE.
Thanks to RetroGamerJP for working with me on this unexpected development so I could modify the kit quickly.
RAMP_0 (resized).jpgQuoted from SpidermanDan:Anyone’s glider just slowing down? I’m noticing more and more shots going through because it is slowing down. It also appears to be loose(r) than before.
What is everyone’s default center setting - I think mine is 184 and not sure if that was default or if I changed it. Appreciate everyone’s insights.
Game overall is still great and I just ordered another pin....they are multiplying!!
Your glider servo is failing/has failed. Call your dist for a warranty replacement. Stern seems to have done a LOT of them for this machine.
Quoted from LapsedGamer:Anyone else have combo's not register if you wing them around really fast? Particularly if they end on the center ramp?
I think this is probably just the opto not registering at the exit of the center ramp on really fast balls. Cover the bottom half of the opto sender and receiver circle with duct tape (or anything that's not transparent or opaque) and see if that helps registration of fast balls. It's worked on other games with similar issues.
I wonder what the frequency of the opto polling is?
Quoted from mbrave77:any chance you can provide a picture of what you mean?
I did this example by taking electrical tape, cutting it down the middle to half-size it, then wrapping it around the opto. Use the marks on the inside of the opto bezel to see where the halfway point is.
Make sure the electrical tape is thick enough to not bleed light in the covered part (or just double wrap it). Just make sure you have half the opto emitter/receiver exposed.
Quoted from gumnut01:Wouldn’t this be resolved by a plastic shield like the one pinball universe sell.
Seems like we need 2 shields from stern. One at the entrance to the right ramp, one at the opto of the centre ramp. I shall ask stern for these shields. Can other owners start requesting this as well? If we get enough owners asking Stern for this maybe they can start distributing these plastics to owners. Please post here when you have requested them.
A> It's not clear yet if this is an opto frequency/ball jump problem or if it's software timing missing it. If people do this fix and the problem goes away, then a more concrete recommendation moving forward could be made.
B> Yes, you can buy a plastic shield piece that does the same thing, but this tape fix is like a penny or less per side to do. Depends on how cheap you are.
Quoted from Gtrefraction:I have been having this weird issue that started a few games ago where the slingshots will randomly fire even though a ball didn’t hit them. I have power cycled the game a few times but it hasn’t stopped yet. Only pattern I have started to notice is the problem seems to happen when coils are firing from flipper or pops. Anyone else have this issue or know what might be causing it?
It's a vibration issue. Your leaf switches are too close on the slings and vibration is making them touch and causing phantom firing. Gap them a tiny bit more and the problem will go away.
Quoted from Aniraf:You know what, never mind. I know I have them plugged into the right plugs, the opto just isn’t working. I did a continuity test from each of the 5 pins to the opto boards and that worked. I manually trigged the opto by grounding the yellow line on the 3 wire. However, I cannot get it to function normally . Is there something I am missing??
Stern's opto wires can break inside the insulation and seem more prone to do this than JJP, etc. I've had to release them, wiggle them in opto test to verify and find the approx break location and then cut it back and re-solder to the board to get a good connection. Give that this is very new, you might just have an opto with a broken or intermittent almost-broken wire inside the insulation.
Did it ever work?
Quoted from Aniraf:Yeah, it worked perfectly until I removed that ramp to fix the diverter. Here is what is tripping me up, I can tell where they must plug in based on the first image. However, when I meter the connections I get 3.4v on the ground line!
Yeah, that's a weird one. Are you sure you didn't get something plugged in wrong?
Quoted from Aniraf:Yeah…it took me half the day, but I found it. Honestly I can’t even believe I did, but I did. Basically what it comes down to is this tiny molex pin not being crimped correctly. I ended up running a lead from the ground strap to the pin and magically the switch started working again. I cut it off and put another pin on it and we’re all good. It is pretty impossible to see in there, but I think the primary lead does not have enough bare wire showing to make good contact.
Thank you for trying to help, this was an insane one. Maybe it was cut short to begin with and the simple motion of moving it retracted the wire into the sleeve. Who knows.
[quoted image]
Congrats to you for finding it! You're probably right that removing it disturbed it just enough that it wasn't making contact in the pin anymore. Back to enjoying the game!
Quoted from Jon9508:So I got my pro this weekend. Is there a way to combat the balls getting mangitiezed and not feeding correctly out from under the van for pizza multi ball? (Or releasing one ball at a time if playing 2 players) I got the game set on 7 degrees.
Are they stock balls? They shouldn't be getting magnetized. Some of the fancy pretty-boy balls will magnetize very quickly and are not recommended.
Quoted from Jon9508:Yea factory balls. About 15 games on them.
Have you used a steel paperclip or compass to verify that the balls are indeed magnetized? That shouldn't have happened in 15 games with stock balls.
Quoted from Jon9508:I haven't. Just watched them. They were all chained together. (3 or 4 balls) Had to shake the machine to get them to break loose. Maybe it was just a fluke.
I'd do a magnetism check with a steel paperclip or compass, then.
Is your machine left to right leveled? Out of level can cause ball hangups.
Quoted from FlipperFreak:Stock balls that come with games have been getting magnetized. We’ve been sending out replacements.
Wow, that's new for stock Stern balls, isn't it? I played almost 60 games while testing temps and never magnetized the balls on the TMNT Pro.
Quoted from gumnut01:Agree with vireland now. I just did the tape on the centre ramp optos. No point having another shield that I don’t need and could impact flow of ball. Thanks Pinmonk.
The $64,000 question is...did it solve your missed ramp completions problem? If it did, it's 100% an opto issue, and it's good to have that confirmation (and the 1 cent per opto fix). If it did not, it's potentially a software timing issue for Xaqery to look into.
Quoted from John1210:Just a quick rule check. How do u start to requalify both multiball locks
Hit the ramps x times to start Turtle Multiball. I don't remember what x is, I think 3 or 4?
Quoted from Pinstein:Are premium translites available to purchase anywhere?
Email Terry at Pinballlife.com. It should be less than $100.
Quoted from cabal:in my case the balls got tangled up and hit the training sign. After that the ball was not able to get up the ramp anymore.
In other cases the ball got disturbed and flew out of the ramp after the Training sign.
in the picture is the version i did, the version Prodoshi did seems to be much better.
In my version there is the danger that balls hit the low lying protector and bounce back. With a higher entrance as in Prodoshis version this should not happen.
But since i but the Protector on, i don't think i had a ball hit front and got rejected.
The Airballs and hits to the Training Sign stopped almost completly[quoted image][quoted image]
But why were you getting airballs there? Is your pizza wheel not level or even raised slightly to make a lip above the playfield? That will cause airballs.
Quoted from cabal:It's the right ramp i had Problems with, it did not even go over the pizza for this ramp.
I think the ball jumped a little up and then got tangled in the flapping metal piece below the sign.
Sometimes it just hit hard again this piece and bounced back and sometimes it got through but behaved very weird.
And sometimes it bend the whole sign above it. I think it was jumping up and the ball was above the metal spinning thing and got caught in U-Form of it.
Now with the protector it seems to have the right height and just slides down below the sign without problems.
sorry i am not that good in explaining.
Ah, of course, the training sign should have made that obvious to me. It's weird you were having airballs there. I never had anything like that. Is your ramp flap flush with the playfield? Sometimes if the ramp is too tight, the flap will curl a little and raise up. It takes almost nothing to launch an airball, and that could do it.
Quoted from J_pinz:Does anyone know how to tighten the glider? Mine came loose and there’s a screw right under the front of the glider that is nearly impossible to get to. Sterns technical support hasn’t been responsive and we’re waiting to play again.[quoted image]
Sounds like a job for one of these bad boys:
https://www.amazon.com/Anex-6102T-Profile-Driver-Handle/dp/B0016VAIBI/
Quoted from PinHead50:Working on it. So far offered a 20% restocking fee
For a DEFECTIVE shaker? Is this straight from Stern or a distributor? If it's a distributor, let me know which one to avoid at all costs. That's BS.
Quoted from gumnut01:I have pinball life in TWD (Spike 1) and TMNT (Spike 2). I have a stern one in Deadpool. The noisiest one that rattles the most is definitely the Stern one. I am now going for Pinball life from now on. Cheaper too.
Somebody correct me, but I did not think warranty was affected by Shaker motors?
Stern put out a bulletin that basically says all mods that plug into the electricity of the machine and aren't made by Stern void the warranty. They did this because in the transition from SAM to Spike 1/2, the first couple non-Stern shaker motors that were put in the brand new Spike platform blew the node board. It was quickly fixed and there hasn't been a problem since AFAIK.
Quoted from Rob_G:Of course it is. Anything electrical you connect to the game that's not an official Stern product is not going to be warranty friendly. Some shaker motors have been known to take out the cabinet node board, but that was from a few years ago. Stern shakers come with capacitor kits, where I don't think the PBL ones do.
Rob
You have that backwards. The capacitor on the 3rd party shaker motors in the beginning was the problem. Sterns don't have the cap according to their 2015 service bulletin:
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB184.pdf
(which was essentially irrelevant a few weeks after they issued it since all the 3rd party shakers fixed the problem)
Quoted from Dokkaebi:Any one had any luck getting new glider servos or assemblies. I've sent several emails with no response at all from stern. I would just buy an aftermarket option at this point. It's unresponsive and/or figgity most the time.
Did you call your distributor? I would have started there...
Quoted from Dokkaebi:Yeah both distro and stern. I used to email chas directly. Sadly he passed recently.
What did your dist say? They're definitely talking to Stern at least weekly if not more with AIQ about to ship. Seems like no response from your dist is more damning than no response from Stern.
Quoted from pb456:wildbill327
Teach me how! I want to add this to my pro.
Click the topic index link at the top of any page in this thread then select the DIY Krang link to take you to that post.
Quoted from Aniraf:I swear PinMonk has a deal with Stern where they only use crappy white LEDs because these games look SO MUCH BETTER with the mod. [quoted image][quoted image]
I got a thumbs-up on this one from @xaqery, which was very much appreciated. I was very happy with the colors. The technodrome was very hard to match. I ended up having to layer two gels to get it.
Quoted from azur3:In the past 10 games on my LE (1.22) I have encountered two interesting issues
1) Sometimes, there's two balls ejected in the shooter lane, resulting in a soft automatic plunge and an involuntary multiball. Some people have already reported this issue when moving from software 1.10 to 1.11, but no consensus on how to solve yet, I think.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/teenage-mutant-ninja-turtles-club2020-cowabunga-its-pizza-time/page/49#post-5799655
2) Twice, I have had TP multilball starting right from a manual plunge - basically around the time the ball passes the van. Has this something to do with optos registering the plunge as a regular hit on the right ramp? Very curious..
Very grateful for any hints!
Check your balls for magnetism using a steel paperclip. TMNT is magnetizing balls quickly for some reason.
Quoted from azur3:Thanks for the hint! I checked my balls (TMNT) and they're not magnetized, i.e. not even picking up a steel paper clip.
Another thing I'll try is to re-clean them, in order to prevent them from being sticky, which might lead to balls stacked up in the ball trough, rather than queuing up neatly.
Do you have one of those plastic sleeves for the shooter lane? Often times those prevent the switch from registering consistently and will make the machine think there is no ball in the lane, so it will serve another. Whether you do or you don't, check the switch in switch test mode by rolling a ball in the lane down to the launch position and seeing if the switch consistently registers. Don't use your finger. It's not a reliable indicator.
Quoted from Thunderbird:Just installed this Hertz hot subwoofer in my TMNT LE and wow! The sound comes alive with dual voice coil!! Best improvement mod for any machine.
(For comparison: Stern Subwoofer LE above left.)
[quoted image]
Is the stock Stern cabinet speaker a woofer or a sub-woofer. I always thought it was a woofer.
Quoted from Thunderbird:You’re right: technically Stern’s is a woofer. What I installed is a true subwoofer.
Two potential problems:
1. The crappy amplifier on the CPU board can't drive it well and it may kill the CPU board.
2. The frequency range crossover isn't really designed for sub bass, only bass. If you get an amplifier to fix #1, you might want to look into a dynamic expander to actually give the sub part of the subwoofer a workout.
Quoted from Jon9508:So I made a rookie mistake last night. I was putting on new flipper rubbers and it slipped off. Causing me to break the Donatello plastics above the left sling. Should I contact stern and see if I can buy a new one or go through the distributor I got it from. (One of the worst experiences I had buying a new machine)
Good luck with that. Stern doesn't sell onesie-twosie plastics - you have to buy the whole plastics set for $287.50. Yeah. $287.50.
Quoted from Jon9508:Man. Not what I wanted to hear
Yeah, it's a bummer. Stern could easily add specific easy-break plastics to the initial run and offer them separately when they are broken, but they'd rather sell you a whole set of plastics you don't need for almost $300.
Quoted from RoyalJack:I didn't get a goodie bag, where is that hiding?
Should have been stapled to the inside left of the cabinet, below the playfield.
Quoted from RoyalJack:Going to check now lol
EDIT: I forgot, I did find that bag, it had some keychains in it.
I was kind of disappointed Stern didn't team up with a pizza chain to put some pizza discount coupons in the goodie bag. Completely obvious marketing point missed.
Quoted from spidey:Stop thinking outside the cabinet
I was thinking outside the shell.
Quoted from Aniraf:I’m having an issue where my back left lighting seems to be “rebooting”? It will run foe a couple of seconds then do a bit of a startup cycle and fail over and over. It is happening in attract mode and in game. I also notice the pizza will jerk just a bit at the end of the sequence. Has anyone seen something like this?
This has been reported a number of times as a sign the servo for the glider is failing:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/teenage-mutant-ninja-turtles-club2020-cowabunga-its-pizza-time/page/32#post-5770567
Is your glider movement suggish?
It also can be a sign of a short in a GI bulb, but that's less likely.
Quoted from CypherPinball:What does everyone use to clean and polish the metal on their machines. I'm still learning. Did my first [simple, did not remove anything from playfield] clean and wax last night (Novus 1 followed by Mill wax Playfield cleaner/polish). But, I'd like to have that metal shine like new.
[quoted image]
If you want the lane guides to shine, you have to remove them and buff them out with red then white rouge. I just took a cheap Harbor Freight grinding wheel and replaced the grinding wheels with buffing wheels. Red rouge on the left, white on the right. You can make lane guides mirror finish, and if you do that and get rid of the grain, ball trails take a LOT longer to reappear.
Here's a ToM I did a long time ago. It really does make the lane guides shine like chrome with a mirror-like finish.
These days ball trails don't bother me that much, but if I restore another machine, the ball guides get this kind of treatment.
Quoted from Aniraf:Wtf, why is it taking stern so long? My glider is still working, it just does this flickering thing with the lights. Should I be expecting the glider to fail completely?
I'd just center the glider then unplug it. Should solve your lighting issue until you get a replacement.
Quoted from Aniraf:This is crazy that you would have to rebuild it yourself. Is this a problem with all Prem and LE machines?
Is it kind of a matter of time situation or just a fluke? I guess if we’re talking about the prior I wouldn’t mind talking to an RC expert and understanding what kind of servo would be the longest lasting.
Pretty sure it's a matter of time issue because Stern likely bought the cheapest, crappiest servos known to China and now it's biting them in the ass. Small chance it was @xaqery's software that ran the servo out of spec, but I think that's unlikely knowing how meticulous he is.
Quoted from Waxx:I owned an ACNC and I thought the same thing. Nothing but trouble and I don't want to ever buy a pin that has servos again.
Houdini used a servo to open/close the curtain at the stage. After a few initial hiccups that had to do with the programming for the servo, it seemed pretty reliable, but it was WAY more heavy duty than what Stern is using in TMNT. That glider lane change should have been a coil assembly.
Quoted from Rob_G:The diverter is multi positional, so it can't just be a coil. It doesn't just divert, but it also stops the ball.
Rob
Up-down for stopping like on the pro. The L/R coil for the diverting. It would have been more reliable. Ask The Shadow.
Quoted from Rob_G:Right now John Borg is facepalming after reading this. You just can't spew stuff and claim it's more reliable without a shred of evidence. The Shadow diverters were not without their own problems, like breaking the ramps for example. I know all about Shadow because I have owned one in the past. You're using up 3 drivers, 3 coils and their brackets to run your design instead of a single auxiliary board controlling a simple servo. Yes, it would appear a few people have had issues, but it's not everyone. I've had bad servos in Horizon Hobby products like cars and airplanes. Brand name JR stuff. It happens there can be defects, but generally they are reliable.
Rob
I've owned multiple Shadows over the years. It's one of my favorite pins. And yeah, SOME shadows broke ramps from the diverter action, but it happened over DECADES, not days. It's the Stern difference.
The $heckel-$aving $ervo is just not a great choice for that mech.
You might be able to get away with 3 drivers and 2 coils for a more reliable mech design if you used a EOS switch and a dual-wound coil. But it doesn't matter because the servo is what we have and time travel is observational so we can't change it anyway, we can just watch the mistake genesis over and over, and that's no fun.
Quoted from Rob_G:Yes, the design is the way it is and it is working fine on my game. If you don't own one, then I don't know why you are so concerned?
Nothing is ever perfect in the world of pinball.
Rob
That servo is one of the reasons I went with a Pro rather than a Prem for TMNT. Concerned about the resale since I just bring them in to mod them then send them on their way. And just because yours is fine so far doesn't mean it will be anywhere near as durable and reliable as a coil-based design.
Quoted from T-800:Aren't there servos in tons of other STERN games tho? JP has the raptor gate and whatever controls the trex head, IMDN has the tomb entrance on the ramp and into the mummy lock and how many games have moving 3bank walls (SM, Tron, etc) just to name a few. Maybe their some other electronic motor; point is, you can get reliable electric drives that are not coils, just makes me wonder if on TMNT they really got crappy ones or if there was just a huge batch of bad ones from the supplier.
There are lots of variables. Iron Maiden mummy lock is a motor with a wheel, as is the diverter assembly. No servos. A good motor is much more reliable than a servo in this price range.
I believe Stern just started using servos recently. Dunno about JP.
The point is whatever servo they're using in TMNT is not up to the task. Also servos can be affected by duty cycle and vibration, so add a shaker motor to regular pin vibration and stick a cheap servo near the middle of the machine and you're asking for trouble.
I plan to find out what servo they're using and see how cheap it really is. I'm expecting cheap. Very cheap.
Quoted from PinHead50:I was planning on taking the servo out in the next few days and get the specifics off the motor and see if i can find a replacement that will work. I assume they used the cheapest servo they could find.
When you figure out what servo they used, definitely post.
Quoted from Jakers:While playing tonight, I noticed something stuck to one of the balls rolling around. It was this sticker, that fell off the servo. Looked up the part number and found one on eBay for 10 bucks.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for posting that!
Less than $6 from chinese suppliers in quantity. Surprise! Stern went ultra-cheap.
Here are the specs for it:
K-power-M1300_specs (resized).jpg
Looking at the servo database there aren't a lot of servos in that package size that can put out that kind of torque. There's a $25 one that's like 5mm taller which is probably the best option, but I'm not sure it would fit.
Quoted from pb456:Be sure to use an Analog servo in its place - fair warning.
Yeah, "analog" is an important part of that spec sheet to pay attention to. Other than the aforementioned "cheap" I have no idea why Stern didn't go with a digital servo.
Quoted from plasticbugs:As long as they both have the same power requirements, don’t they basically do the same thing? I would think they could be swapped digital for analog as long as the additional torque from the digital servo doesn’t cause the whole assembly to fly apart.
Maybe? I don't know enough about the servo nuts and bolts to say definitively having only a passing familiarity with them. I know that the circuit board converts the power input on digital servos to the needed signal, but not sure if there are other considerations for compatability.
Quoted from PinHead50:Yea I'm surprised stern doesnt have someone on the forum to post answers and follow ups. Most other forums I have been on has a Rep monitor them
Company reps are usually chased off by complaint posts pretty quickly. They have tried in the past.
Quoted from Soulstoner:That’s basically the job of a social media rep though. I can see the argument for designers and coders being chased away, but not support reps.
Well, I'm not arguing that point, just laying out what has happened in the past.
The pinball-related company social media reps usually stick to the social media platforms and stay off message boards like pinside. Heat gets too hot, too fast. It's happened over and over again.
Quoted from atrainn:Have many people tried the retro refurb art blades? https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/teenage-mutant-ninja-turtles-stern-night-pinball-sideblades/. The antsier I get for my Pro to ship the more I keep buying mods.
I've seen one reference to them in this thread, just curious what the material quality is like on these guys. I'm not really digging the Stern blades.
Stern has the best material of all the ones I've seen. Most of the others are thinner. Some are paper-like, which is a total fail.
Quoted from PinHead50:Good news. The servo for the glider I ordered will be here tomorrow. I will get it installed Sunday and let everyone know how it’s working.
Which did you go with?
Quoted from PinHead50:It’s a hitech hs-645mg
The torque for that one is only about half the Stern stock servo's torque. It's also slower at .24 sec 60 degrees vs .15 for the stock one.
Seems like those differences could be significant.
Quoted from Aniraf:I understand all of the issues I am reading about with the glider servo, but I am still confused on how mine seems to work correctly but the lights keep recycling. Everyone (even stern) agreed that the video I took is a glider issue but I don’t understand how it is causing the other errors.
The burned out/failing servo is likely drawing too much power and resetting the Node board. Both are attached to Node 9.
There are too many affected lights to show them all (a LOT are on Node 9, check your manual), but I cut out the LAIR lights section from the chart in the manual because you can see them resetting in your video so it was an easy comparison point. L-A-I-R lights are all attached to Node 9, where the Servo is drawing power, too.
If you unplug the servo from Node 9, your problem will likely resolve unless the node board has been damaged by the servo (which I doubt).
Quoted from PinHead50:could be but the alternative was buying another $8 servo from china. trying to get by until they start shipping out replacements
I wonder if torque is the solution, or range of motion? Maybe the servo just has the wrong specs for the job it needs to do? This particular servo Stern is using has a LOT or torque. Most of the others in its size are 1/2 to 1/3 the amount of torque. There are literally only a handful I've found with the same or more torque.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Mine is annoyingly glitchy, I'd be curious to try an aftermarket replacement. What have you found that is similar or close?
I couldn't really recommend one because I don't know the answer to the torque question, and I don't have a TMNT anymore to test candidates. Is more torque, less torque, or the same torque the right answer? No one really knows at this point.
Quoted from JackOfPots:I'm trying to disconnect my glider due to it not moving left properly (and am waiting on replacement parts from Stern, intergalactic backorder, etc) I'm trying to figure out if I'm disconnecting something from a node board or an I pulling this glider apart on the top of the playfield to unplug something. Could you help?
According to the manual you'd need to remove pin 5 from connector CN8 from Node Board 9.
You can't just disconnect the whole CN8 connector or you lose the up post, krang, pizza magnet and other things also on that connector. You can use a pin extractor to remove the pin from the connector, then mask it off with electrical tape.
I don't have the machine to check how it's connected on the other end to the servo, but if it's just a molex connector or the like, it may be easier to just unplug the servo rather than doing it at the node board.
Quoted from PinHead50:OK everyone, good news. I just got done switching out the servo motor on my glider and for the first time since day one, IT WORKS!! I'm going to play it a bit today and make sure it doesn't have any issues. All in all it was an easy swap. All you need is a screwdriver, nut driver, and two tiny zip ties. This was a plug and play part. It took about 20 minutes to do. Have to take both lower rails off (4 nuts) and then 3 screws on the glider mech and it pops off. Then 4 bolts holding the servo down. Cut some zip ties and then put everything back. Under the playfield there is a small circuit board that is wrapped in heat shrink that goes in line with the servo wires that you will reuse. If you are planning on putting some new Titan post rubbers now is a good time since that glider is over two of them. If anyone has any questions feel free to PM me...
Here is the part on amazon I used.
amazon.com link »
This is great news. Keep us posted about how it holds up.
Quoted from atrainn:So uh has anyone ever seen something like this? My shooter lane has a huge lump of what seems to be clearcoat? It almost looks like wood glue that got clearcoated over... It's significant enough that it causes the ball to hop and occasionally throws the ball into the right side of the lane.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks more like wood glue that was clearcoated over...but yeah, that's weird.
Quoted from Esoteric_rt:Has anyone hooked up an external sub to TMNT?
There is no line out jack on my spike CPU board (Pro model, export). The TMNT flyer lists it as a feature!
Perhaps I have to go the old route of alligator clips to the cabinet sub?
Have to buy a new sub now as my current one doesn't have speaker wire inputs, only RCA...
Depending on which CPU board revision you have, you can get a line out with a cable that connects to the CPU board in the head.
Quoted from Esoteric_rt:OK thanks, is that a Stern accessory I have to buy or something that can be bought off the shelf?
I noticed there is still the 'headphones' adjustment option in the service menu, so yeah I figured it has to be possible
I don't know. I made one. It's discussed in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-on-board-amp-with-external-amp-for-iron-maiden
Look for the diagram with pin 7. That's the line out for a subwoofer. Some of the early board revisions (check the model number on the board) didn't have it. I assume all TMNT do, though. It's pretty straightforward to make a cable to tap it.
Quoted from kell:Can confirm this as I am going through it at the moment for a playfield with multiple pooling spots. Being told they are no longer sending populated boards which is extremely disappointing.
Really struggling with whether I should return it or just keep it with the defects.
Get the spare playfield. Protect what isn't damaged on what you have and enjoy it. Sterns are not really that hard to swap playfields compared to nightmares like Star Trek:TNG, Indy:TPA, Twilight Zone or any JJP game. So that option is open as long as you have a spare PF.
Quoted from konghusker:I keep debating on selling my Metallica for a tmnt pro. It’s a really tough choice as I love my Metallica still, but would love a tmnt. Guess I’m curious on thoughts on this game, depth, longevity and build quality? Seemed like a bunch of people sold off tmnt quickly so was curious about that.
Pro vs Pro, I'd go for TMNT.
Quoted from Looprunner:Anyone having issues with Stern support getting back to them? They were extremely responsive for months and now I can't get them to message me back. And now I can't get them to message me back.
RIP Chas.
Quoted from Blackzarak:Anyone had this issue before looks like I might need a new board 9? Seems like it’s just off the lights on board 9 and the pizza spinner, lairshot and who knows what else..
[quoted image][quoted image]
Says you have a short in a GI (general illumination) bulb on topside of the playfield around the mid-playfleld area. Remove the GI bulbs and re-insert them one at a time to isolate which one (or ones) went bad.
Quoted from Blackzarak:Can some give me a little help and take a picture of there node board 9 connection wanna see specially connection 12 & 13 curious on what everyone else has I’m trying to troubleshoot. Thanks in advance
According to your error message, your problem is connected to CN15 of Node 9. It's one of the 15 White General Illumination bulbs that have shorted. Yel/Blk wire.
You could try unplugging CN15 (with the power off), then while it's unplugged, power on and see if the error goes away. You'll lose all the top R, G, and W GI while it's unplugged.
Quoted from Thunderbird:Kenada is a real tool, attempting to cause doubt where there is none about TMNT left outlane. It is not a design flaw at all. If someone wants to make it easier, they can close it down with a double post or side rail button. TMNT will stand the test of time as an awesome design, just like a reversed Star Trek has stood the test of time with a similar right centric setup. Wish everyone would stop listening to Kaneda’s nonsense. He purposely slams Stern any chance he gets in subtle ways. The slam on TMNT is one of them. Such a moron. Remember, Kaneda is the same guy that thought a fan layout, was something the fan’s of pinball would like. He knows so little about pinball and is the reason he never talks about pinball play or design. We all need to stop listening to his constant put down of Stern, Spooky and others.
I'm still trying to understand how he's back doing pinball podcasts again. I thought he was done with it all not so long ago.
Quoted from Thunderbird:Lol, totally agree, but we know attention seekers like him will always be back bothering pinball again. He can’t resist and never thought he was going away for good. Was so much better in pinball with the likes of his podcast not airing.
Wasn't it only not airing for a matter of weeks? It seemed like it was back just after I heard he deleted all his stuff and left for good. I do actually feel bad for him. He seems maybe bipolar or suffering from some mental disorder. He has some crazy swings. That can't be fun.
Quoted from Blackzarak:I was getting a error message GI over-surge on board 9 here’s a pic of what was my issue Incase someone comes across the same problem I had to check every GI to shake out the problem. Not actual picture hope it helps.[quoted image]
Thanks for posting this. I added it to the topic index in case anyone else runs across the issue.
Quoted from Mrawesome44:I have my slingshots turned down as low as I can and it hasn't done shit for me. Between this and avengers I'm at my wit's end trying to get these games working.
Stock rubber or 3rd party?
Have you tried re-gapping your sling switches to make them a little less sensitive?
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Stock Rubbers and I do not know what regapping is. Apologies very new when it comes to tweaking nib
There are two leaf switches on each sling. Just bend the back leaf of each one a little more away from the front on each one so it takes more of a ball hit on the rubber in front of them to push them together and activate the sling kicker. It will make the slings less active and could help with your issue. Do this with the power off if you're new to this.
Quoted from Jakers:For the people that have received new glider mechs (premium/LE) from Stern, how long did it take for you to get yours? I've been waiting 2 months at this point for my glider mech replacement. My distributor has called Stern multiple times asking for information but all they keep telling him is "we've confirmed your need of a replacement part".
My TMNT Premium has not been fully functional since I unboxed it day one. It's really frustrating.
Spend $30 on a better servo and get to playing. Why wait for Stern when the solution's already out there?
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:Got a link? I didn't see one in any of the indexed posts.
It's in the topic index now.
Quoted from Jakers:I have no problem doing that. It looks to be a very easy servo swap. It's just the principle I guess. I spent thousands of dollars on a new game, I shouldn't have to spend another $30 to make it operate the intended way.
Just depends on what's more important to you, $30 and playing now, or free and waiting 2 months and counting to play at all. It sucks, but, well, Stern.
I'd just pay the $30 now and ask Stern to send me some parts I need (coil stops, etc) to cover the cost I shelled out because they couldn't send me a failed part for 2 months and counting.
Quoted from Jakers:My game is playable. I've been having a blast with it even though the glider is unplugged. So if I were to order that new servo, my only question is how do you know if the servo (the part that spins) is centered correctly before actually connecting it to the glider?
I'd PM the person that has already made the swap for that question. Check the topic index for their post. If you document your swap with pics I'll keypost that for others that want to do the same thing.
Quoted from FNwoz:Anyone have any advice on how to easily move this post? It’s threaded into the play field and through. Just want to move it to the other hole. I see more right outlane drains then left. I have the lock nut taken off already. Thanks.
[quoted image]
Use a small wrench (something like this https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/96016613) on the top to hold it in place, as you use a socket to remove the nut from the other side, then once the nut is off, tap the post out.
Quoted from arcadem:I just installed 2 new mods on my TMNT Premium: the TECHNODOME from MEZEL MODS and the Turtles Select Bracket from PINMONK. In my opinion they are both big hits. EZ installs, great quality, and big upgrades to the standard Stern plastics. But, to each their own. Just wanted to share.[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for posting this (and buying the Turtle Select bracket). That Technodome looks great.
Quoted from LowScores:Anyone have the new shooter rod installed from Stern? I just bolted it in, need to see if It needs major adjustments but I cant even get the ball up the lane. I'm hoping its an alignment thing...but has there been any issues with these larger shooter rod accessories not having enough power, or being the wrong length or something?
[quoted image]
What size is the barrel spring on the outside of the cabinet by the handle? Can't tell from the pic.
You can check the shaft length against the shooter rod you took out to see if they're the same.
Quoted from LowScores:Things all and all look about the same. Maybe swap or shorten a spring?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Is the shooter plate bezel on the outside and inside the same length? It might be a function of the photo perspective, but it looks different on the two.
Quoted from Rydhia:A third update on the topper. Got another call stating Stern had them priced at $1000 and they have software for another mode like Jurassic Park.
So it was $1000
Then corrected to $599
Now $1000 again?
Quoted from jurulz:Here is the Topper guys...[quoted image]
Do you see anything to make it worth $1,300 CAD?
And I have no idea why they put the TMNT logo on the front when it's literally at the top of the backglass just below where this mounts. The could have used that area for another row of art or something cool. Now it will look like your machine has a stutter.
Quoted from delt31:F that topper.
Also don't be an asshole and buy this topper to just feed the beast
Yeah, I was a hard out when toppers hit $600. $1000 is crazy, but they'll probably sell all the low-imagination, poor quality toppers they can make just because of the game DLC they're bundling with them now.
It's a shame because the game is great and really is begging for a topper. But not some layers of plexy with a robo-eye that maybe blinks and/or turns for $1000.
Quoted from DarthSinex:I have a new TMNT LE and it regularly fails to release balls locked at the back after a multiball, seemingly losing track of them and then searched endlessly while holding up play. Anyone have any idea how to troubleshoot this or even seen anything like this before?
Check your balls for magnetism with a steel paperclip. TMNT seems to magnetize balls quickly.
Quoted from bazou:Hello folks,
I am a new user to pinside but have read many topics here in the past few weeks. I have the chance to move early next year to a new house, with some spare room left for my first pin
As a total newbie I am a bit afraid of the speed/brutalness of TMNT as well as of this upper left pin shoot/left lane, but I like the fact that this theme is very family friendly (as soon as my kids are old enough: btw when are they old enough for playing a pinball??) + I love the coop & 2vs2 mode to have more fun with friends.
My question: Those Coop and 2vs2 modes are they kind of exclusive to TMNT or does they exist in any other released pin? If it does, which ones please?
Any advice/comments welcome!
Thanks beforehand
jjPotC has a great multiplayer mode. Very pirate-y where you can plunder the other player's riches. But those machines are VERY expensive now, since so few were made.
Quoted from dolsontown:node 187 i cant update code any link to explain
What's the actual error on the screen? Got a pic? Are you sure it was a 7 and not a 9?
Quoted from bazou:Could someone please confirm how the diverter actually works on the pro please?
I understand it stops the ball? What makes it released then?
Searched the answer a bit but could find...
It's not a diverter on the pro. It simply pulls down to stop the ball while the animation is played on the screen, then lifts to let the ball continue. The ball never changes sides (or diverts). The path stays the same.
Quoted from acons017:Hey guys,
Posted this issue before and got some tips, but I’m still running into the same issue. Both multiballs seem to run long because the auto launcher is not able to feed to turtle van. Balls intended to feed the turtle van during multiball launch halfway up the ramp and come back into play instead. This happens time to time at the start of a ball too but much more frequent during multiballs.
Few things I’ve tried:
1. Checked the autokicker to ensure that it doesn’t snag on anything
2. Tightened the screws of the auto kicker (they were already very tight)
3. Made sure the roll over switch went down when a ball rolled over it.
4. Waxed the wood at the launcher and also waxed the metal/plastic ramp
5. Tried increasing/decreasing the strength of the auto launcher - still happens
I did replace the launcher knob/rod and installed PinMonk’s turtle select bracket. Only mods I’ve made on that side of the machine.
Any additional help would be great. I want to enjoy the game but this so unbalanced it’s taking away from my enjoyment. Thanks in advance.
Slow-mo film your launch. I would bet your ball isn't shooting straight and is bouncing off the side of the shooter lane one or more times on its way out.
Quoted from epichoff:Tmnt topper is pretty cool.
[quoted image]
...if it was $599, or $499, or $399.
$1,000 is not cool for that lazy, visually stuttering design.
Quoted from acons017:vireland
protocol_j
retrogamerjp
arcadenerd925
Here as some videos recording the auto launch. I was able to record it in slow motion, but it reverted back to 1x once uploaded to YouTube. Yet another thing to troubleshoot...
It doesn’t rattle on the way up. I noticed sometimes it may graze the left side and is also clearing the Turtle Select bracket.
Your auto-launch forks need to be centered on the ball. Currently only the left side is making contact at rest. The right side is off the ball when it's served up to the shooter lane waiting for launch. Start there.
forks uneven (resized).jpgQuoted from gumnut01:Also the shooter rod rubber should not be touching the ball it should be just short by a gnats willy.
[quoted image]
Yes, that can rob the auto-launch of some power, too. Looks like the tip was changed. Probably just not pushed all the way onto the rod.
Quoted from zaki:anyone own turtles and avengers? if so, which do you like better?
I've had both - only the Pros, mind you, but at this point I had more fun with TMNT. Both would be great choices, I just felt less grindy-ness with TMNT. But adjusting to the speed of that center ramp shot is brutal.
Quoted from BaxterStockman:That's my problem living where I do. Basically no games near me (<800 miles) and definitely no games that I want.
Why not these guys? Advertising a Premium and says same day shipping...
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/104505
This dealer's advertising a NIB Prem in nebraska:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/101851
Of a private LE still on the pallet:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/103948
(should be able to get it with a bank wire transfer)
Quoted from BaxterStockman:Those are all avengers.
Haha. That's what I get for jumping back and forth between threads.
Here's a TMNT Prem from the Flipper Fidelity guy...
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/104768
(should be able to get this using a bank wire transfer if he'll ship)
This TMNT LE SAYS no shipping, but if you do White Glove legs on service with Michelle he'd have to do nothing, you'd handle it all:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/104021
Another TMNT LE that says no shipping that probably would be attainable with the white glove legs-on no-hassle shipping:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/103563
You can get a shipping quote for the legs-on white glove shipping here:
Michelle Bianchi
63O-344-3O93 Cell
If you do the legs-on white glove, you have to remind the local carrier to bring the leg protectors (cardboard Ls), blankets and shrink wrap TO THE PICKUP. Make them wrap it in front of the person selling it and have them document it with some cell phone pics at various points as it's wrapped. I've done this legs on white glove as a seller and a buyer probably 10x now and NONE have arrived with issues, but you have to make sure it leaves the seller wrapped properly. Do that and you'll be playing this in your home in 2-3 weeks.
Quoted from Jadin2rank:So after a failed test.. I lifted the play field and it’s like the coil is stiff, if I physically bring the metal part with the spring up it stays up and Visé versa. [quoted image][quoted image]
That gray wire seems to have a LOT of tension on it. Might be tweaking the coil. Try disconnecting the wires and see if the coil moves freely.
Quoted from BaxterStockman:Thanks for all the info. You're too kind. Had to do some googling on what white glove shipping is. The legs on shipping sounded interesting, but if you swear by it I trust you.
Messaged one seller to see if they'd consider it.
And would you recommend escrow.com for the transaction?
No. In your case with almost no cred built up here yet, you have to trust but verify the seller because it's not an even situation reputationally. How long have they been on pinside? How active are they? What's their pinside feedback from other sales?
I'd do a bank wire transfer once you've done your homework on the seller, which will put them at ease dealing with you. In literally every case where I wanted a "no shipping" pin, they still went for the white glove legs on shipping service I set up anyway because they didn't have to do anything except take some pictures as the pin was being wrapped for them.
And once the sale is complete, ask for feedback from the seller and leave them feedback as a buyer to start building your pinside cred for future sales/purchases.
Quoted from acons017:Looks like that’s one of my issues. The rod is touching the ball and also with the rod pulled out, the autolaucher is still shooting short... so looks like I have 2 things to fix. How should I go about getting the rod to sit away from the ball?
It just looks to me like you don't have the tip pressed all the way on the rod. Try forcing it down harder, or try a different tip. That one may be too fat.
Quoted from Yfichelle:Hi all.
I have an issue with the lock on my tmnt pro. It seems that the opto is dead. Waiting for the new one, is there a virtual lock in the feature adjustments to continue to play ? I dont find it
Thanks for your help.
Yan
Is the opto dead or mis-aligned? If one side shifts a little, the beam won't make the connection. Did you try loosening them and adjusting while in switch test mode (with the white coin door peg pulled).
Quoted from Ed209:My Cowabunga flasher is stuck on, anyone else run into this issue? Are the spike led flash lamp boards prone to these types of failures or is this more likely a bum node board?
A few people had this problem - it was mentioned here:
I'd PM them first to see what it was in their case first. I think it's likely the node board 8b that the flasher is on, but one of them probably has the answer by now.
If you want to go to the trouble of swapping your Node 8 and Node 9 boards you can determine whether your node 8 is the problem (it's what powers the Cowabunga flasher). Swap the boards and change the dip switches (page 9 of the PDF for the Prem/LE) so the boards now know they're the opposite board. If your problem goes away, your node 8 is likely the issue and you can contact Borygard about getting it repaired.
Quoted from Ed209:Super helpful, thanks. I just ordered an extra node board as a backup so I’ll swap that in when it arrives to test. Was going to order some extra flasher lamps but can’t seem to find them anywhere online. Contacted Stern to see if I can get one via them. :/
Did you order the node 8 "master" board, or just the node sub board that the lights and flasher are on?
Also the flasher in this case is just a LED diode on a board, not a bulb, so that's why you can't find it.
Quoted from Ed209:I ordered the “master” board (520-7017-72).
Was looking for this flasher lamp board online with no luck unless I want to pay for international shipping...
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/520-7000-00
Those flasher boards are so simple I doubt that would be the problem. I also don’t see anywhere that the wire is crimped or damaged and would be causing a short. My guess is you’re correct and the node board is the issue.
Drop terry at pinball life an email with that part number for the individual flasher board. He may be able to get them for you and maybe for less than Marco.
Quoted from Ed209:Got a quick response from Stern on the stuck on Cowabunga flasher. Sounds like this problem is tied to a faulty node 8b board. They’re sending a replacement.
Thanks for following up with the response from Stern. I keyposted this answer to the dim Cowabunga insert problem.
Quoted from Jediturtle:I did get unlucky with a grainy playfield. Any word yet on if they are replacing them? It’s annoying but I’m not sure if it’s worth the hassle to replace.
Definitely get a warranty replacement playfield, if for no other reason than to preserve resale value of the machine down the road even if you never install it and only sell it with a new playfield, you'll get more than just in the condition it's in with no replacement playfield. Pretty clear you're entitled to one with that nasty printing.
Quoted from Yfichelle:Hi all,
It seems we are a lot of people to have an issue with the ball lock in the pro version. When we put the balls behind the van to begin a mission, the ball is not detected.
The Opto dont detect balls anymore... No problem of the Cn12 on the node board 8...
Misaligned opto ? No...
Someone has resolved this issue?
Thanks.
Did you check balls for magnetism with a paper clip?
Did you check to see if the optos are incorrectly mounted too close together?
Quoted from Yfichelle:Yes but why magnetized ball wont be detected by the opto ?
Because maybe it's sticking to some metal or another ball and not seating properly to break the opto beam.
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