So, I just bought a Pro without having seen it or played the game. Kind of an impulse buy.

I had the itch to get 2 games. I had decided on a Munsters Pro for the one (but I am having a hard time finding one). For the other I was down to Guardians and Turtles.

I've only played Guardians a few times and never played a Turtles. Everything I've read about Turtles make me think I'll like it more.

I don't care for deep games (Hence why I am interested in Munsters). To me, the rulesets of 90s WMS were my favorites. I am a middle of the road player, not terrible, but not great. So if a game has shots that are too tough, I will lose interest. (Seemed to be a common theme with GoTG). Also I want my kids to enjoy the game. They are not good at all. Here is the kicker, they wanted a GoTG and not a Turtles. (Oh well....too bad for them )

I blame Stranger Things for pulling me back into the hobby. I friggin love that game. I had been dormant with the same 4 games for the last 10 years. But I am back. Traded out 2 pins for a Stanger Things Pro and Star Wars Pro. Really like both of them. (Stranger Things moreso)

I am off to buy mods.

I don't have my machine yet, but I know in Iron Man for example, holding the left flipper button while plunging lowers the Up-post at the top of the orbit. This is by design.

I don't have a TMNT yet (arrives on May 15th), but both up-posts on my Stranger Things were binding against the PF. I tried loosening the assembly and seeing if I could move them enough but no go. I eventually rotated the assemblies and drilled new mounting holes. The posts are perfect now.

I agree, but my Stranger Things was NIB and these issues were from setup. That is my favorite Stern pin since, well, WMS exited. But wow Stranger Things has so many out of the box issues. Took me a month to iron out all of them, and I have experience with full machine teardowns. So a homeowner that doesn't have the experience I have might be SOL. (Adjusting lane guides and sticking up-posts are just 2 of many issues)

Can you share what they charged you? Assuming your wife isn't on Pinside and will see this post.

Thanks.

I prefer the 5.25 kit for the Prem/Pro because at the same time you are upgrading the $1 backbox speakers that are in those models.

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No. The stock speakers I believe are a 4" full range. Honestly, they are like a $1 speaker. They are crap throw away speakers. With the upgrade, you can move up to 5.25" coaxial. MUCH better. I use the Kenwood KFC-1366S. They are the same ones Stern uses on the LE. They aren't actually great speakers (they are ok), but they are shallow, their tweeter is flush and the cone is silver which shows off the speaker lights nicely. Even though they are low/mid-end coaxial speakers, they are still FAR, FAR better than the stock speakers. Add a sub like this: (I used the pinnovator sub out to make things easier on the Spike pins)

https://www.adorama.com/kpr12sw.html?sdtid=14976494&emailprice=t&sterm=2bNzpqRNzxyLR2JwUx0Mo389UkB2WIQNR1GpTc0&utm_source=rflaid62905

and you have a completely different sound system. I don't actually have a TMNT yet. My pro arrives next Tuesday....but I have over $700 in mods and upgrades sitting in my basement including the speakers and speakerlights. So I don't know specifically how much better TMNT will sound. I upgraded an original Iron Man (with the customer TeddyB fw with AC/DC), Star Wars Pro and Stranger Things Pro (Cleland sound mod) to these subs and they woke up. Those pins all had previous external subs but the Klipsch is much better than I had on them previously. For the price, those Klipsch subs are fantastic for pins. (I bought 5 of them)

FWIW, I am a huge super-bands fan. I am used to them and don't like playing a pin with normal rubber now.

They tend to bounce slightly less. I am a middle of the road player. Not great, but not bad. On TMNT, I can hit that lair shot more often than I should be able to compared to the complaints I see from better players. My only guess is that the super-bands are causing the ball not to bounce out as hard. If I line it up with the right flipper, I can hit the lair about 50% of the time from that right flipper. This is without having to drop the left flipper to trap the ball.

How often do you folks have to oil the pizza spinner? Just curious. I had to oil mine the other night. I got this machine 2 weeks ago. Previous owner said he oiled the spinner (but I don't know when). The spinner was good for me for 2 weeks. After oiling it, I am good. Just wondering how often I'll end up doing this.

Thanks.

My guess is that one of the 2 slingshot switches is stuck closed. Go into switch test (pull the interlock switch out so that you can test properly) and pull the sling rubber (from the side that is facing the middle) away from the switches. If you see the switch then open, that is the problem. You'll have to adjust the switch gap.

Got my parts back from the powdercoater. Color is Transparent Dormant Sparkle Granny Apple Smith - Tiger Drylac.

I was going to go with Illusion Green Ice by Prismatic Powders, but I had a machine done a few weeks back with a Prismatic powder and it took a couple of weeks just to get the powder in (They typically deliver in 2 days). The powder coater had this color on hand so I went with it.

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Thank you. Weird thing is that this pin was a spur of the moment purchase (couldn't find what I wanted....a friend had this available for sale so I just bought it) and it has become my favorite pin.

Thanks. I have a local place near me and their prices are crazy cheap. They charge me less than I paid just for shipping my parts in the past to get them powdercoated. Add in the powdercoating costs to the shipping and I paid less than half of what it cost at some of the mail in powder coaters. There are people on pinside that will do it and charge about $300 + shipping.

Find a local powder coating shop if you are interested. It isn't tough to replace the parts. The only "pain" is the coin mechs on the coin door. The screws can be a pain. If you do this, be careful as the topmost 5mm screws are a tad shorter than the others. If you put one of the longer screws in, it will cause a dimple on the front of the coin bezel. Not a big deal as that bezel is like $2.50 but then you'll need to order more parts to justify the shipping .

The way I did it was to order spare parts (legs, lockdown bar, etc..). So I always have a spare set. Unless you want your machine sitting on the floor for 2 weeks, I'd get a spare set of legs.

I started with that and it works well. I moved over to the Pinsound connector because you get Line-level outputs of both subwoofer and backbox speakers.

Pinwoofer sells a kit but I wanted an externally powered sub vs a free-air sub.

Does it show 5 balls in the trough test with 1 ball removed? My initial guess is that the ball 6 opto might be flaky. So during game play, it ejects one ball, ball 6 opto is still closed, game thinks there are 6 balls in the trough and it ejects another one.

I haven't read back too far, but have you removed and reseated the connectors on both the receiver and transmitter trough boards?

I was having similar problems on my JP with fast shots. Fast orbit shots would not register but slow shots would. Apparently this is common on a couple of different optos on that machine. The consensus is that the fast shots get a little air and the ball breaks only the top half of the light beam. Top half of the beam still means that the beam was never broken.

The temp/perm fix was to put a piece of electrical tape on the bottom half of the opto opening. (In my case, the lane guide). There is a more permanent fix to raise the optos. This fixed my issue.