Anyone else getting a glitch in the new 1.51 code that shuts off the GI bulbs in the top of the playfield during attract mode when you open coin door, enter the menu and then exit and close coin door?

Check out this thread to see how those scores happened. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-son-and-i-broke-the-tmnt-stern-leaderboard-#post-7143219

My Pro has the gate. Build date 9/24/21. If you look at the plastic the Party Wagon is mounted to you can see a cutout for the gate to fit through it.

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I use the pizza spinner as the trigger for the UV flasher. Check out this Pin stadium install video if you have not seen it yet.

I have Cliffy’s installed on the shooter lane and the outhole. Only place to get them is by emailing Cliff through his website to place an order. Usually a few weeks turnaround time. I believe I paid around $30 for the set.

I changed out the stock rubber on the star post at the lair exit to a Titan silicone, which is slightly thicker than stock, and have not had an outlane drain from a lair exit since.

I understand exactly what you mean. I think it is more mental than anything. When you first get a new machine you don’t think about your strategy as much as just playing and having fun. Once you learn more rules and start playing for progression and higher scores, the game feels more difficult.

Just a little tip to try if anyone is still struggling with drains from the Lair. If you still have the stock black rubber ring on the star post located at the bottom of the Lair exit, try and change it to a slightly thicker, but same diameter, silicone or other material ring. I use a clear Titan ring. Once I switched that rubber over a year ago I have not drained upon exiting the Lair. That little bit of extra thickness guides the ball slightly more to the right so it does not bounce back to the left out-lane after hitting the small black rubber just above the ball guide.
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The Grey/Blue wire needs to be soldered to the bottom side of the upper leaf switch. The other two colored wires should be soldered on the lug next to it on the same leaf switch. Should be your #3 position in the picture.

I recently added Mylar to the center of the playfield just below the flippers after touching up a small chip on the playfield there. I noticed some dimples in the surrounding area so I wanted to avoid anymore issues. I assume someone had an airball (probably during a multiball) and it happened to land just right and caused the small chip.

If anyone is looking to add a topper, but doesn’t want to pay the price for Stern’s version, here is another option. This is the 24” wide version but he will make other sizes also. The topper was $200 and the magnetic mount was an extra $20. I messaged the seller a couple months ago (Etsy) and asked him if he would make a custom topper for a TMNT pinball machine. I sent him a picture of the Stern topper as a starting point. This is what he came up with.

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It is powered by a usb cable. You can just plug it into a power adapter and use the outlet inside the back box.

I have went back and forth with every playfield pitch from 6.0 to 7.2 degrees over my two years of ownership. After all the experimenting I have found Sterns recommended 6.5 degrees to be the best all around pitch. You can backhand both ramps on factory flipper strength, the center ramp is “somewhat easy to hit”, and the orbit shots seem smoothest. if I move closer to 7.0 degrees the orbits seem easier but the center ramp and backhand shots are harder. If I try a lower pitch then 6.5 degrees the ramps are easier but the orbits and outlanes become more difficult. It is all about balancing and 6.5 degrees works best for me.

I believe the stock setting is 250 on both the left and right flipper, which makes for very fast play. I think this is one of the reasons a lot of people think this pin is so hard. I have played around with coil strength and settled at 235 on both. At a 6.5 degree playfield pitch you can still backhand both ramps and it also makes missed shots a little more manageable to recover from.