Quoted from Dr-Willy:
I really like how it lays out bug fixes, what’s new, and what rules have been tweeked. Hope it’s like this for all update on all games going forward!
When’s the last time a code update readme didn’t have this?
Quoted from Dr-Willy:
Looking at other dwight read me files, it looks like this is how he always does it and other coders jumble everything. Guess i just never picked up on him doing it this way before until now.
Haha. That explains it then. I read way more of Dwight’s readmes than anyone else’s.
I also like the added code Dwight has for the prem with the glider and lair and bidirectional disc. Prem has my eye on this one.
Quoted from Waxx:
Here I have compiled all the mechanical differences between the Pro and LE spinning disc.
I guess it is possible I'm missing something they didn't include in the manual or if we are all lucky they could "enable" both directions with a topper or purchasable DLC.
Just clarified with Stern that the difference between the Pro and Prem is a different more expensive controller board that allows the magnet to spin both directions.
So I wouldn’t expect it to be anything possible on the pro ever.
Pro - motor is driven by a solenoid drive on the node board directly (page 12 of the PRO manual). PRE/LE - motor has a separate bidirectional motor controller driven by the node board lamp drives. (PRE manual, page 34).
1.0 means feature complete to me. Bug fixes and polish should continue for months as more people play and find said bugs and scoring imbalances.
Quoted from konghusker:
Question. You guys think this game code is deep enough to last a really long time in a home? I’ve heard a few guys talk about getting through the modes already, so just curious on opinions of people that played it.
Doubt they’ve been through all of them. Game is too new to say how easy or hard it will be to get to the cowabunga wizard mode. Plus who knows what tweaks and balances are to come in the coming months.
This game seems like it will be similar to SW and GOT. Lots of ways to attack the game, but not impossible to beat it. Just the right amount of difficulty for most players.
Quoted from Waxx:
It's not being negative to ask more from manufacturers. Obviously the answer is yes but how much more for what's most likely an inexpensive board.
$6100 isn't enough yet I guess.
I just don’t try to act like I know what goes into a pinball machine production cost. It all adds up and I bet quicker than people think. I bet $10 here or there in production cost can swing a feature from being added or not.
And a $10 part is just the start. What’s the cost of software dev on it, service of the part, etc.
Definitely not frustrating at all. I’ve only put one game on it but was able to find the shots almost immediately. Lair and right orbit being the hardest for me.
I’m usually a terrible upper flipper player and I found those shots pretty quickly too.
I like the mono targets. It can ge frustrating to have that bottom target left and not be able to ever hit it unless your shot it perfect.
The way the targets are coded are good too and you’re going to need to hit them a lot so it makes sense that they are easier to hit.
Quoted from mbrave77:
ok its not just me. I just cant track the ball well in a dark area and Im young with good eyesite.
Same. If we are having a party and it’s late night I might turn them off cause they do look cool in the dark, but I can’t track shit playing pinball with the room lighting off.
Contrast is my worst one too. I want to shake my fist angrily at whomever at data East thought it was a good idea to use all the GO to flash all the time in their DMD games. HATE IT.
It is strange. Just get what cha want. No need to justify it in any way. These are all stupid financial decisions. Haha
Quoted from Potatoloco:
I just got my LE and will set it up tonight and test it out a bit.
I've played 30 or so games on the pro. Admittedly I've given up on that shot for the most part. It's really clunky imo. Rest of the shots are like butter. Everything else I'll hit 8 out of 10 times. But that LAIR shot, I'm probably legit working at a 2 out of 10 pace, with the ball going in and popping back out. Still not sure if it's a reflection of how the pin is set up or if that's just how it's going to be with the geometry of the pin or if I'm just randomly a terrible player with that shot.
Drop the flipper to help it in there. Still hard, but less frustrating.
Quoted from cleanandlevel:
not even a peep from automated services... do other distributors go out faster because they're closer with Stern? thinking about changing distributors..
I believe it’s a seniority system. The top distros get the most from each run. If they pass on the opportunity it goes to the next distro down the totem pole.
Tilt Amusements is at or near the top so if you want one early I would try him next time.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:
nope, this depents on your ambient lighting, so you cant generalize it.
for me it improoves the look of the PF for about 30-40%. If you play in a dark room, not so much.
All the lights are on in my basement when I play. You can definitely tell, but unless I buy another LE, I’ll never buy a sheet of this glass. Way too expensive.
For instance. You would think if it’s so good with glare that it would completely eliminate the glare from speaker lights. Doesn’t even come close.
Quoted from Bingovit:
Have been playing turtles for a few games now...
I can't seem to figure out how I can relight any of the two main multiballs?
Anybody have a clue how to relight turtle power or pizza multiball?
Play team up for turtle power i think, And the pizza one you need to play the pizza eating mode
Quoted from delt31:
Haven't seen an LE flip unless you're a fool for any recent Stern's. Last I can remember maybe iron maiden but def GB. It's been awhile.
Maiden theme sucks that’s why. No rush to get the top dog. GB was the last big time theme that blew everyone away from looks alone. That’s the recipe for flipped LEs.
Well to be fair stern LEs that did sell for a premium we’re not available from distros as they were all spoken for. And I agree. The last time that happened was for GB.
Quoted from TheGunnett:
Try pressing the button on the side of the cabinet that tells the machine the door is closed and those errors should go away when you go back into the menu
Interlock switch. It’s white. Pull it out. That way you don’t have to hold it in.
Also this error shouldn’t come up either way.
Make sure it’s not the patented stern replay knocker screech. It’s normal if so. You can turn it off in the settings or buy a physical knocker if you want.
I’ve always thought it’s the nice powder coated armor.
The cheap feel comes from the lower level armor imo.
GOT premium and pro that I’ve owned feel light and cheap.
AC/DC prem and STH LE feel like tanks.
Quoted from jonebone:
Hey random rookie pin owner question here.
How do I check number of plays on my LE machine? Some way to get it to boot into that menu that displays it on the screen? First time owner so apologize for the rookie question.
Open coin door
Press the black button on the inside of the door.
Pull the white button near the hinge of the door out until it clicks.
Navigate the menus using the flipper buttons using the start button as enter.
Find the audits menu.
Then select standard audits. It will be in there.
That’s correct. Just use the standard shiny ones from Titan.
Quoted from Chalkey:
I used the plain Marco's pinballs which are the only ones that have done well in LOTR and Goldeneye and they are already starting to get magnetized (and right beat up looking as well). That multiball intro seems to really do a number. Going to try Ball Barons carbons next although they haven't stayed unmagnatized well for me in the past but they look the best by far.
I’ve never seen a titan standard pinball get magnetized. Going on 3 years using them now.
Quoted from Mrawesome44:
Hey Guys just opened a brand new Turtles LE. Game is telling me Node Board 1,8, and 9 are out. When booted game keeps auto plunging a ball. Not able to start a game. Do i need to contact Stern support or my dealer to resolve this
Best to copy both on the inquiry email.
Yep. This is what I mentioned a while back. However, this doesn’t happen with other games I don’t think. Interlock engaged or not. A code update could fix. I know in the past false tech alerts were fixed with code updates.
I was thrilled to play this left outlane. Has an extra post that all but eliminates the Borg bounce. I got a lot of drop catch moonwalks up and out the right inlane though. Never seen that before.
Quoted from jonebone:
Hey, how do you update the code on these? Sorry for newbie question.
This is at the top of every code revision readme file:
1 - Download the zip file
2 - Unzip the file, this will create a folder that contains SPK file(s).
3 - Open folder, copy only the file(s) to the root level of a USB stick. Do
not copy the folder.
4 - Power game off
5 - Insert USB stick
6 - Turn on game
7 - After game boots up it will give the option for software update
8 - Volume buttons change options for full or quick update. Enter selects the
option and starts the update.
9 - Once update is completed game will prompt user to power game off and
remove USB stick.
Quoted from jonebone:
Also, I'm not sure what you guys mean about the diverter damaging the game?
They are talked about the diverter on the back wall of the game that diverts balls into the van.
Quoted from r00DVM:
Is there a way to search within this thread and not all of pinside?!
I’m having a really hard time enjoying my TMNT LE and I’m wondering what pitch you guys who love your game are set at... I started at 6.8 because I tend to like my games a little faster but this game is so fast I’ve started to adjust down and I’m at 6.5 now but still can’t get into it. I want to love this game - help me lol
If you don’t like the game incline isn’t going to help at all.
Quoted from Swoods5688:
Did anybody else have an issue with the balls getting magnetized? After about 25 games i started noticing when i had multiple balls in the pizza shot the plunger would drop to let a ball out and nothing would move because they were stuck together. They were balls that came with the game so i changed them out but in all my sterns with Magnets this was a first for me. Love the game though
I’ve never had issues with Titan Pinball’s standard pinballs at 1.10 a pop. Get those.
The new gem shot. Put some dead foam back there or drop the upper flipper at the right time to help push it in.
Quoted from jonebone:
Is there an official fix for the turtle diverter hitting the plastic ramp? I've noticed it. I tried to get in there and remove the screws to put in a piece of metal but I can't get at them with a normal screwdriver. Am I missing something?
Search within this thread using the find in topic link up top. You need to tighten a bit that holds that diverter. Lots of posts on it. No modification to the game necessary.
Quoted from Navystan:
Interesting you say there is no issue other than tightening nut.
First, I have tried to tighten nut and saw no change. I guess I'm not tightening it enough? It seemed to not change, but maybe I haven't tightened long enough. Seems like it's just spinning and not getting tighter.
Second, I put in ticket to Stern and they said their engineering is working on a permanent fix. If this wasn't an issue, would they not have said to just tighten the nut?
Stern doesn’t always find the same results as us. I don’t have the game nor have dealt with this issue, but with my experience with STH, we took the notes stern gave us and improved them to fully fix the issue for good.
And as always there is more than one way to skin a cat.
All I know is Ive seen multiple people in this thread fix this issue by making sure that diverter is installed correctly and tightly.
Quoted from LapsedGamer:
Received my replacement glider assembly from Stern today, hope to up and running again tonight. Hopefully this one lasts longer than ~12 games. I'm thinking I should update to new code before installing as there looks to be update to the glider code in the latest version to maybe prevent / discourage this from happening again. Thoughts?
Always have your game on the most up to date code.
Looks like they changed the printing too. Older runs have art underneath the post.
Quoted from Bmwdrummer:
Is anyone else having major issues with the 1.11 code? Updated today and several things are very broken. A different turtle shows up than the one you select, it doesn't advance to the next ball, then eventually it thinks the balls are all missing. Is there a way to downgrade?!?
Are you sure you loaded the correct code? ( pro prem/LE?) ?
Quoted from Bmwdrummer:
In fact that is exactly what I did. Thank you for pointing out my very rookie error.
haha I did this for the first time last year and I’ve been around a while. No sweat it. Funny how it works. I’ve seen others mistaken load the wrong game onto a completely different game.
Quoted from Lermods:
Got my pro today. Not quite sure what I’m doing, but are multiballs supposed to be easy to start? They seem to start pretty quick at times. I don’t see points being awarded so I don’t think I have any phantom switch/opto hits.
One is after a few right ramps (less if Donny). The other is also easy to start at the van. Not sure how to light locks.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:
I repositioned the bottom post of the left sling shot because it has some play but it didn't help. Any ideas?
The way they have positioned the slings on some of their newer games makes it way harder to post pass. I recommend an alley pass from left to right. Or a tap pass if you’re a god. Haha
Quoted from Waxx:
I don’t think it makes sense. Mine was assembled 8/5 and has great art. That would mean it was an original PF from months ago that was just now used. I think they are making some in house and some are being made by a 3rd party.
Crazy speculation would be they print ones in house which let them make changes immediately but at a lower quality. 3rd party takes longer to change or they have to meet an ordered amount.
They make the playfields in house. All of them. Zero art or clear is applied. They send all the playfields out to a few different vendors who apply the art and clear.
Quoted from Pinballnewb01:
What do you mean with flipper code?
- Added some Easter Eggs. To do a basic Easter Egg you hold in both flippers during attract mode
then you enter a sequence of numbers/letters. To enter one
number/letter you hit the left flipper button X times counting as you
go. When you reach the number/letter you need stop and hit the right
flipper button once. When you are all done you need to hit the right
button one more time. For example to enter code 3 3 3 (or C C C) you
would hold in both flippers then LLL R LLL R LLL R R.
Quoted from JonCBrand:
The keyless lock from pinballlife is a cheap $5 alternative to external volume control. Slightly more work to adjust volume, obviously not a good choice with young children.
Disable the interlock switch too so you can do this mid game without losing the flippers.
Go to the feature diagnostics. It’s probably there. Should have a turtles symbol on it be be right next to the standard diagnostics.
Also, you don’t have to have the coin door shut. Just make sure and pull out the white interlock switch so it clicks. That will act like the door is shut.
Quoted from Zenomorp:
Yup! For leisure and tournament purposes. There is a camera attached to a pole that runs along the ceiling above each game and runs the feed to each 32” screen. Pretty simple.
FYI, you should be able to change the settings on the cameras so you don’t see the menu button and other stuff from the camera screen.
All I can say is there is no UV light in those. It’s just purple. The only UV he makes is the one for stranger things.
No problem at all just commenting that I know he doesn’t use real UV in the main product. Not sure why he calls it that. Only creates confusion.
Quoted from mbrave77:
Havent had an airball issue. Just shot not giving me credit sometimes.
If that’s at the point where the opto is it will help keep the ball down and register the opto.
It sounds like on fast shots you ball is jumping the opto. Need to find a way to keep the ball down at that point.
He meant a new card. Let get a different class 10 SD card and put the code on that.
Quoted from Keylime:
My glider is acting up. Twitching/fidgeting while the game is on and during game. Using the action button it switches sides properly but still fidgets in place. No other issues. I've emailed stern and gotten one response which was a question. I promptly replied and havent heard anything back in several days now. What are my options? How do i fix?
Keep emailing stern every day until they respond.
Deluxe fan here too. I never liked lighting up the whole speaker box, so I’m glad he came up with these.
Quoted from T-800:
My balls are getting stuck occasionally in the pizza parlor too. I increased the pitch on my game and it helped, but it isnt 100% . My pinballs are magnetized too. Anyone know if there is a good way to de-magnetize them? The path in the pizza parlor is pretty tight, not sure if a plastic spacer to keep the balls off the metal guides will fit.
Have you used the Titan standard shiny balls? I have yet to hear a report of those becoming magnetized in any game.
Haven’t tried these in years but here’s some:
Or these if you like paying $3 a ball haha.
PBR might sell them as well.
Well this convo started because the ball baron balls appear to become magnetized no matter which type you go with.
Email stern and copy your distro every day until they respond. Takes some time to get the communication going, but I’ve found once it starts I usually get a quick resolution.
Quoted from gumnut01:
Noticed something weird today. Not sure if it’s intended. I was having a really great turtle power multiball when pizza eating comp was made ready. Suddenly the music changes and all MB music and call outs are replaced by the pizza eating challenge music. Wondering if this challenge should wait and not interrupt the MB or is this intended so that the button mashing can happen whilst multiball is happening?
Pretty sure that’s intended. I’ve had it happen many times.
Quoted from acons017:
Looks like that’s one of my issues. The rod is touching the ball and also with the rod pulled out, the autolaucher is still shooting short... so looks like I have 2 things to fix. How should I go about getting the rod to sit away from the ball?
Adjust the auto launch arms so they are centered on the middle of the ball. If done right, they should push the ball away from the manual plunger. Also make sure the plunger rubber tip is all the way on.
Quoted from rcb5588:
Has anyone received anything from Stern in regards to their grainy playfield? My distributor told me two months ago that they spoke with Stern, and Stern agreed that I would get a new (unpopulated, obviously) playfield sent to me. I took that news from my distributor as a grain of salt and put it in the back of my head. Just realized today that it's been over two months and didn't hear anything from Stern or my distributor.
Curious if anyone else has any other experience or success with this?
My game plays fine, and this is 100% strictly a principle matter.
You’ll hear nothing. It will just show up one day.
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