Quoted from Jblock22:I'm using the Polaris Carbon Steel balls provided by jrcmlc.
I also feel like they definitely shouldn't be getting magnetized this fast, but it just seems really weird that the auto plunger starts having issues getting a full plunge and then if I take the balls out of the machine, demagnetize and put them back in the auto plunger fires like a champ again for ~50 or so games. Previous thought was that maybe there's some plunger issue that's not "readily apparent" but is being magnified by ball magnetization. So even the slightest bit of magnetism (after 50 or so games) starts affecting the plunger in a major way?
I don't even know if that sounds like a feasible thing or not but I'm not really sure. It's just so weird that demagnetizing the balls seems to fix the issue (albeit for a short amount of time).
You said it yourself, problem goes away when you demagnetize the balls. Problem is, the issue comes back. I strongly believe this is your problem (and others who have recently posted), and that it is not mechanical.
I've done a little research on this and found the post below from one of the community's technical guru's, it's from 7 years ago but still holds true and answers a lot of questions.
A quick few takes from his post:
1. All balls magnetize eventually.
2. What I found most interesting in his post is that not just direct magnetics can cause magnetism; there are other magnetic fields surrounding things like coils. This makes sense why my Venom balls got magnetized; because there's a mini subway that is surrounded by diverter coils but more importantly, the fast lock system.
3. We've had mixed results in this thread on the topic of magnetism, and what I think it boils down to is Premium/LE machines vs pro. The premiums have additional magnetic fields due to the 2-way pizza spinner and the van lock system. This is probably why premium owners, such as myself, are seeing magnetism more affected than pro owners. And probably why one brand of balls works in one machine (pro), but not other (premium).
All in all, I still stand by my previous statements. Go with the Titan Standard balls; they solved the issue for me thus far on a premium machine.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:There is no such thing as low magnetic pinballs, unless it is a ceramic powerball or made out of a non-ferrous material.
All steel carbon balls will magnetize over time, none are impervious to these effects.
The difference in pinball manufacture are some are "chromed" and have a higher ferrous content than other pinballs.
What I mean by that they are NOT not "chrome plated", which has been tried in the past, flake over time, and are bad for machines.
Those are generally the "extra shiny" balls that are sold at a higher cost with a mirror shine.
These higher ferrous pinballs are not recommended for magnet games as they do tend to magnetize very quickly.
It is more than possible for games that do not use direct magnetics can still get magnetized based on circumstances inside the game, although it takes a long time. This is due to magnetic fields surrounding things like coils on the underside of the playfield, but it is specific to individual game design. It is not very common unless the game has subways and the balls are close to the energizing coils or kickers.
However, you will end up replacing pinballs due to scratches in those games LONG before a ball gets fully magnetized in a game that does not use magnets as a game feature.
As a follow up question that can be answered for assistance before asked, no you cannot effectively demagnetize pinballs.
The effects are short lived.
Once balls start sticking to game features, magnets and not letting go of the cores effectively, ball trough, metal rail sides of the game (such as the ToM trunk area), or to each other, it is time to replace the balls.