(Topic ID: 271489)

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Club(Stern 2020): Cowabunga! It’s Pizza Time!

By Tuxedomask23

3 years ago


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  • 12,044 posts
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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Afty86
  • Topic is favorited by 335 Pinsiders

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“Which model are you going to purchase”

  • Pro 285 votes
    50%
  • Premium 166 votes
    29%
  • LE 120 votes
    21%

(571 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1141 TMNT fresh out-of-the-box Issues and Fixes FAQ Posted by Stosel (3 years ago)

Post #1580 Lights rebooting on the back of the machine - FIX Posted by HookedonPinonics (3 years ago)

Post #2172 playfirlo colour differences Posted by Phatchit (3 years ago)

Post #2390 Left Outlane Fix Posted by NoQuarters (3 years ago)

Post #2457 DIY Krang Mod Instructions Posted by ABE_FLIPS (3 years ago)

Post #4037 Glider Servo DIY replacement Posted by PinHead50 (3 years ago)

Post #4120 Link to Amazon product page for replacement servo for glider Posted by PinHead50 (3 years ago)

Post #4327 Sloppy soldering at factory causing overvoltage error - fix Posted by Blackzarak (3 years ago)

Post #4374 Replacing bad glider servo with amazon better one Posted by arcadenerd925 (3 years ago)

Post #4698 Center Ramp non-registering opto fix Posted by spidey (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#169 3 years ago

Anyone can explain to me how the naming of code progression works? Like 1.01... I never understood this since it seems those are just numbers- including marketing strategies. From what I understood 1.0 means the code is somewhat "finished".

I was looking at the new DF stream and saw all those dispaly errors, always when there are multiple awards like add-a-ball or bonus held...
how can this be 1.0 code? This was the case also on the reveal stream, its such an obvious bug.
just compare this to the JP 0.9 code, seemed to be much more polished.

and another thing, why is the theme song so redundant... repeating it self over and over again in so many ways aaaarrgh
it weakens the impact of the themesong in the important parts like MB... that could have been such a magical moment.

beside that, the game looks very nice, the flow looks so goooooood

EDIT, MY FAULT, THOSE ARE THE POP PUMPERS REWARDS, LIKE ON A SLOT MACHINE

sadffafdafdsaf (resized).pngsadffafdafdsaf (resized).png

#192 3 years ago
Quoted from Thomas3184:

Isnt that just the pop bumpers cycling till you get a match 3 for the actual reward?

Thanks, this was my fault! great

Quoted from Looprunner:

Anyone come up with a cool mod to cover that ugly wing nut?

yes, the ball stopper on ther pro is realy ugly. what can we do here? even a small sticker would work well...

#284 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Same. If we are having a party and it’s late night I might turn them off cause they do look cool in the dark, but I can’t track shit playing pinball with the room lighting off.

yes, that and my eyes get exhausted pretty fast because of the strong light/dark contrast.
More ambient light also means more reflection in the glass, thats why i use inviglass, so i can crank up them lights!

#359 3 years ago

Anyone knows what pitch angle the game is designed for?

#446 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Haha. It’s really not that big a difference. Nice to have though.

nope, this depents on your ambient lighting, so you cant generalize it.
for me it improoves the look of the PF for about 30-40%. If you play in a dark room, not so much.

#481 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

All the lights are on in my basement when I play. You can definitely tell, but unless I buy another LE, I’ll never buy a sheet of this glass. Way too expensive.
For instance. You would think if it’s so good with glare that it would completely eliminate the glare from speaker lights. Doesn’t even come close.

i dont know your situation, but i see you have alot of machines.
i buy a pin for 7k+, the glass only is 200$ you can remove it when selling the machine and it makes the game MUCH MORE enjoyable.
i started with 1 glass and now the 3rd is coming already, because i want to enjoy my games as much as possible, its the number 1 mod for me.

im not sure what i would do with 18 machines

#514 3 years ago
Quoted from Habermania:

Close playfield pics
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

thanks for the images!
is this clear coat chipping?
and what is that circle?

thanks!

fdsa1 (resized).jpgfdsa1 (resized).jpg
#518 3 years ago
Quoted from Habermania:

I investigated the first picture. It was like plastic shavings. Must of come off the edge of a plastic that didn’t have a completely cleaned edge ... or something. They picked up immediately and came from something else.
2nd pic is the edge of the Mylar protecting the surface around the pizza spinning disc.

thanks, I'm a littlebit concerned as you can see

#531 3 years ago

LEDs can flicker from factory due to cheap led sockets, had this on 2 machines. especially the lights under the inlane guids.

#534 3 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

It's usually not the sockets, but the bulbs themselves. They just don't hold up against the vibration of the flippers and the resistor inside of them probably breaks. These sockets are mounted right under the flipper plates and not simple to get to. I wish Stern would fix this long standing issue, if it can be fixed. I hate flickering LED lights under the inlane plastics. Replacing the bulb fixes the flickering - for a while anyhow.
Rob

it didn't do the job for me, i guess i have to solder the sockets, they went loose.

#700 3 years ago

people are complaining about the perfect remake theme song,
but you never heard the german version, its so much better

#715 3 years ago
Quoted from cabal:

Do mean it for real? or are you making fun.
But thanks for the link this triggers childhood memories, i knew something was different to the past when i viewed the TMNT Pinball videos, but know i know what it is. The Theme song, did not remember they did it in German.

I'm serious. I do think the german version is much better compared to the childish male vibrato voices in the english version.
German version sounds cooler and rougher.

1 week later
-1
#1233 3 years ago
Quoted from John0560:

Can we get a topper already?!!! Does anyone know if toppers usually take a while to be released? Trying to pimp this pro model out. Mirror side blades look amazing on this game by the way., much better than the cheesy stern art blades. If stern would of had Zombie Yeti do the side blades just as good as the rest of the artwork, it would have been an easy sell.
[quoted image]

there will be 4 toppers representing each turtle, the plastics are illuminated by LEDs.
299 $ each, or if you collect all 4 you can clip them together and get access to the pre installed special mode (hint: glider - LE/Prem only!).
Or you buy all 4 turtles for 999 $ in a package. I cant wait!

#1235 3 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Will people stop giving them this idea!
Everyone said if Lyman is on code I’ll be buyer now he’s on every SLE/Premium only release.
We gotto stop shooting ourselves in the foot

#1295 3 years ago

I never installed mirror blades, can they easily removed when selling the machine?
are they prone to scratches like my art blades on JP?

1 week later
#1506 3 years ago

As long as they are not designing new metal aprons or use another mounting system this problem will persist.
Those sharp edges will dig in over time. I have had to use two big washers on my JP2, since the screw hole is big and conical. Needless to say it looks awful. I guess alot of buyers also just accept this... and its the same with ball guides.
Most of my JP2 and DP ball guides are suffering from mild slicing/chipping, just look closely. IMO they should design every machine with washers, and yes - you have to calculate those extra inches before, it makes a difference and can cause problems after installing washers later.

What would this cost Stern for one machine? about 5$ max? (Of course WE would love to pay the 5$ extra...)
In exchange for happier customers, and not seeing all your stern games damaged after 2 years.
win win

#1649 3 years ago

the main problem is we have no stern alternative. we need our pinball drugs. stern is making the best.
i dont understand why stern doesn't fix this problem, officialy in interviews they seem to care about what people want, but on the other side they copletely ignoring us.
if George Gomez just would tell us that they are adressing the issues and not totally poop on us... but they are radio silent.

we need another manufactuar pumping out 2-4 good theme titles a year, making some competition... then we would have a choice what to buy.

Hot Wheels - bad theme for me
R&M - good, but sold out
JJP- too expensive
Multimorphic - too experimental and expensive yet

#1653 3 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Agree, bad things happens in all manufacturers.
For now, all i can say is that Turtle is a really good shot, but that's by far the most brutal pin in my collection.
I enjoy that, but it's not as family friendly as i was hoping.
The metal bar separating the two left inlanes keeps poping my ball to the outlane, I may end with a small tweak to solve that but not yet sure about the best way..

Too bad, harder than JP2 ??

#1662 3 years ago

you can delete posts.

#1687 3 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

I quickly made that. Will see If airballs are absent now.
[quoted image]

if it doesn't work you could try this shape, it was made for tmnt

teenage-mutant-ninja-turtles-anti-airball-plastik (resized).jpgteenage-mutant-ninja-turtles-anti-airball-plastik (resized).jpg
#1765 3 years ago

Xaqery

Short feedback on the Sounds. (Pro model; Code 1.10.0)
There is plenty of clipping (distortion) on FX sounds and Splinters call outs. Those seem to have too much bass frequencies, leading to clipping. Especially when played together with FX sounds. So better equalizing/mixing is really needed here!

Thank You

#1772 3 years ago

Is there any official statement on what pitch the game is designed for (6.5 - 7.0)?

I wan't fixed goals for extraballs, otherwise my progress seems to be depended on luck. how do you have set your EB's?

#1776 3 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

If you have an LE, make sure the speakers have not switched back to 4ohm after the last update.
Rob

Thank You, i have the Pro model, 1.10.0 code and factory settings (8 Ohm).

Quoted from Charliew65:

not sure if this has been done yet but i had some eject protectors that I thought were cliffys and learned they weren’t. Once i got real cliffys in i had them stuck to my work bench cause I never throw shit away.
I saw i had a small scratch where the diverter hits and I cut one of them and double sided taped it to the plastic. I think this will be a good solution...
[quoted image][quoted image]

A properly set up diverter mech shouldn't need a protector, did you check your screw?

#1777 3 years ago
Quoted from Charliew65:

not sure if this has been done yet but i had some eject protectors that I thought were cliffys and learned they weren’t. Once i got real cliffys in i had them stuck to my work bench cause I never throw shit away.
I saw i had a small scratch where the diverter hits and I cut one of them and double sided taped it to the plastic. I think this will be a good solution...
[quoted image][quoted image]

A properly set up diverter mech shouldn't need a protector, did you check your screw?

#1785 3 years ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

xaqery
Short feedback on the Sounds. (Pro model; Code 1.10.0)
There is plenty of clipping (distortion) on FX sounds and Splinters call outs. Those seem to have too much bass frequencies, leading to clipping. Especially when played together with FX sounds. So better equalizing/mixing is really needed here!
Thank You

I reconnected all my cables and this solved the problem, i guess it was a lose connection!

thank you

#1817 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:

How do you switch episodes before you begin them?

shoot the 2x target.

Anyone can tell me how i get rid of the sticky residure on the backbox from the protective foil?
I tried isopropanol, soap and some kind of car clean rubber. nothing helps!

28
#1869 3 years ago

I want to share my game experience and the modifications I made for damage prevention, in hope this helps and saves you some time. (TMNT PRO)

ADD WASHERS:
Add washers under every ballguide where its needed, its like on every other new stern machine - the metal guide will work its way through the clear coat into the wood, causing the clear coat to chip. This will cost you the most time but its essential, since it can just take a few games until damage is done. 2-4 seconds with a hot air gun on the already existing pooling on the clear coat will be enough to flaten it out before you add the washers. I use metal washers but there are other options too. Make sure the washers inside diameter is a littlebit bigger than the threaded rod, since the rods get thicker on one side and can cause space between the washer and the ball guide itslef. I did not photograph every ball guide, so try to understand where those washers are needed. Only add them where a threaded pole is attached and under the brackets of the ball guides.
HINT: take alot of fotos when you disassemble the game.

LAIR SHOT:
The edge of the ballguide stands out too far and can cause damage to the balls and sharp metal pieces which will cause damage on you PF. Remove the guide, its easily bent with your hands. It will also bend the opposite side of the ball guide a little bit, but it will not affect the ball there.

BALL FEED LEFT RAMP ( = left inlane exit):
Add Mylar there, they forgot it and I bet it wont take long to cause damage in this vulnerable area!

BALL FEED CENTER RAMP ( = right inlane exit):
Also add Myler at the ramp exit where the ball drops on the inlane

BALL FEED RIGHT RAMP ( = upper flipper feed):
The ramp is attached with 2 screws. Loosen them up and push the ramp as far as you can to the left side and tighten the screws again. This helps to get a more consistent feed to the upper flipper.

PIZZA SPINNER:
Make sure its leveled as flat as possible. For adjustment loosen up those 2 big hex head screws (very tight, take care).
The spinner is loud from factory, mine took about 30 games until it really started screaming. I added a little bit of Lithium grease on those two white plastic washers, this solved the grinding noise issue.

BALL TROUGH AND SHOOTER LANE:
Reduce the trough eject power to the lowest setting to prevent shooter lane clear coat chipping. If the ball doesn't make it up into the shooter lane, increase the power step by step. Make sure to protect the ball trough and shooter lane with mylar or some kind of protector. Practice has shown those areas can be damaged after just a few games.

UPPER FLIPPER:
If you have alot of airballs or cant hit the Krang Kombo, reduce the flipper power in the settings, this has helped me.
I also see a problem there with the ball feed since the metal guide is not aligned with the flipper, maybe leading to unconsistent shots, I will investigate this further.

GAME FLOW HINT:
You can make the full orbit shot for every manual AND auto launch when pressing the left flipper button at the time where the ball leaves the shooter lane. This way you avoid the slow Pop Bumpers and make the Krang Kombo or nice and fast on-the-fly shots to the right orbit or ramp (Katanarama style). You also can do a loop pass or live catch (hard). Caution, the extra ball speed from on-the-fly shots is potentially destructive for the right ramp, so i made a airball protector for it.

Lair fix:
unbenannt-1 (resized).jpgunbenannt-1 (resized).jpg
unbenannt-2 (resized).jpgunbenannt-2 (resized).jpg
unbenannt-3 (resized).jpgunbenannt-3 (resized).jpg

Mylar at left Ramp feed
unbenannt-10 (resized).jpgunbenannt-10 (resized).jpg

Pizza Mech
pizza mech (resized).jpgpizza mech (resized).jpg

Left ramp screw and ball guide fix
unbenannt-4 (resized).jpgunbenannt-4 (resized).jpg

Added washers images
unbenannt-7 (resized).jpgunbenannt-7 (resized).jpg
unbenannt-8 (resized).jpgunbenannt-8 (resized).jpg
unbenannt-9 (resized).jpgunbenannt-9 (resized).jpg

Upper flipper feed gap
unbenannt-6 (resized).jpgunbenannt-6 (resized).jpg
Airball Protector DIY
IMG_20200805_211241 (resized).jpgIMG_20200805_211241 (resized).jpg

Here is a guide from hurryup pinball on how to install the mylar:

#1881 3 years ago

As

Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

I want to share my game experience and the modifications I made for damage prevention, in hope this helps and saves you some time. (TMNT PRO)
ADD WASHERS:
Add washers under every ballguide where its needed, its like on every other new stern machine - the metal guide will work its way through the clear coat into the wood, causing the clear coat to chip. This will cost you the most time but its essential, since it can just take a few games until damage is done. 2-4 seconds with a hot air gun on the already existing pooling on the clear coat will be enough to flaten it out before you add the washers. I use metal washers but there are other options too. Make sure the washer is big enough since those attached threaded rods get thicker on one side and can cause space between the washer and the ball guide itslef.
LAIR SHOT:
The edge of the ballguide stands out too far and can cause damage to the balls and sharp metal pieces which will cause damage on you PF. Remove the guide, its easily bent with your hands. It will also bend the opposite side of the ball guide a little bit, but it will not affect the ball there.
BALL FEED LEFT RAMP ( = left inlane exit):
Add Mylar there, they forgot it and I bet it wont take long to cause damage in this vulnerable area!
BALL FEED RIGHT RAMP ( = upper flipper feed):
The ramp is attached with 2 screws. Loosen them up and push the ramp as far as you can to the left side and tighten the screws again. This helps to get a more consistent feed to the upper flipper.
PIZZA SPINNER:
Make sure its leveled as flat as possible. For adjustment loosen up those 2 big hex head screws (very tight, take care).
The spinner is loud from factory, mine took about 30 games until it really started screaming. I added a little bit of Lithium grease on those two white plastic washers, this solved the grinding noise issue.
BALL TROUGH AND SHOOTER LANE:
Reduce the trough eject power to the lowest setting to prevent shooter lane crear coat chipping. If the ball doesn't make it up into the shooter lane, increase the power step by step. Make sure to protect the ball trough and shooter lane with mylar or some kind of protector. Practice has shown those areas can be damaged after just a few games.
UPPER FLIPPER:
If you have alot of airballs or cant hit the Krang Kombo, reduce the flipper power in the settings, this has helped me.
I also see a problem there with the ball feed since the metal guide is not aligned with the flipper, maybe leading to unconsistent shots, I will investigate this further.
GAME FLOW HINT:
You can make the full orbit shot for every manual AND auto launch when pressing the left flipper button at the time where the ball leaves the shooter lane. This way you avoid the slow Pop Bumpers and make the Krang Kombo or nice and fast on-the-fly shots to the right orbit or ramp (Katanarama style). You also can do a loop pass or live catch (hard). Caution, the extra ball speed from on-the-fly shots is potentially destructive for the right ramp, so i made a airball protector for it.
Lair fix:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Mylar at left Ramp feed
[quoted image]
Pizza Mech
[quoted image]
Left ramp screw and ball guide fix
[quoted image]
Added washers images
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Upper flipper feed gap
[quoted image]
Airball Protector DIY
[quoted image]
Here is a guide from hurryup pinball on how to install the mylar:

As a follow up i want to complete my posting.

I realigned the left orbit for a better upper flipper feed, its perfect now. Caution, just drill new holes into the playfield if you know what you are doing!

The best and easiest thing i did is the airball protector on the right ramp. It is important to screw it on both sides of the ramp so it will stabilize the whole ramp and the Training sign with the switch will not rumble and it cant be hit from flying balls. I can't believe how smooth that ramp feels now, rock solid but like silk. if you build one too, make sure you take material you can bend with hot water (PETG for example), because attachment on the bottom is too high for a straight piece. Do not screw it to the rubber posts that will be too low for fast balls!

Enjoy!

20200805_212957.gif20200805_212957.gifIMG_20200805_210744 (resized).jpgIMG_20200805_210744 (resized).jpgIMG_20200805_211241 (resized).jpgIMG_20200805_211241 (resized).jpg

Added over 4 years ago:

EDIT: you do not have to realign the left orbit, its not worth it imo.

#1884 3 years ago
Quoted from ctl723:

Could you clarify what you mean by adjusting the ramp for the upper flipper feed? I understand the push back and to the left, but not clear what you're showing with the other red circle there (is it just highlighting adding a washer?).
Also, thanks for the tip on ball drop mylar. I used to apply it to every game but forgot to even check since Stern had been doing it from the factory. I also added some to the right side drop.

you are right, thats just the spot for the washer. just pull the ramp as far as possible to the left and you should be good to go.

Haha i really forgot the right side mylar! thank you

#1887 3 years ago
Quoted from Thomas3184:

What size washers are correct to put under those ball guides?

I use 0.46 inch (=11,7mm) outside diameter and about 0.2 inch (=5.2) inside diameter.

#1904 3 years ago

I did an Extra Ball LED mod, works great but i have had to cut a plastic behind the turtle van for it, so that the light comes through.
You can't just simply attach the cable to the LED of the EB light because its a LED board with more connection to it. (connection +5V and LED2 are the right ones).

1 (1).gif1 (1).gif1 (2) (resized).jpg1 (2) (resized).jpg1 (1) (resized).jpg1 (1) (resized).jpg
#1905 3 years ago

Anyone knows how Extraballs works in this game? I only know you get them for episodes and with the standard setting you are getting them like random...

#1979 3 years ago

Xaqery
Today i made it to the Final Battle on ball 2. I beat phase one and I drained on phase two. I can not understand why I wasn't able to continue the wizard mode with ball 3. The game just resets all episodes and you start over again. This feels not right or rewarding. I even had one ball left. I got nearly no extra points for reaching the wizard mode, just about 2.5 million- thats a good pizza eating contest with 2x. Also some kind of advantage when you make it through all episodes would be nice- like on Deadpool a constant 2x or maybe enhancing 123/april/liar points. Just something that makes you feel really good about reaching that goal, and makes you fear to loose that last ball where the big points are.

Do you have plans for improving any of this already? Thanks for listening, I'm really enjoying the game!
Bug found: Sometimes the start button causes a two player game, also seen on jack danger streams.

Quoted from Wildbill327:

Looks good... I grabbed a Krang also and I’m glad I did. I’m thinking of adding a led inside but not sure it’s going to fit. I’m not sure where/what to connect it to.

I'm in too, I also will add a pink LED. I guess best choice are those small ones
ebay.com link: verkabelt sehr helle LEDs 5mm rund wasserklar verschiedene Farben 20cm Kabel LED

I do not know where the Premiums Krangs are connected, would be nice if someone could take a look for us.
If not ill just connect it to the red LED of the Krang insert, because this is the one whats not constantly on, it just flashes when hitting the center orbit or ramp.

#1997 3 years ago
Quoted from Xaqery:

I think I agree with some of your points and I am considering the rest. Today you get a bonus at the start of Final Battle for all the episodes. You get 100K for not completing them but if you complete them you get an increasing amount of points per episode completed Starting at 250K. It currently looks like this:
[quoted image]
As you can see the number of wins goes from 800K to 5.5M. When I first thought about those numbers that seemed good. But now I think I agree. Its really hard for me to win more than 3 episodes on the really rare times I get to Final Battle.
I am thinking about these numbers:
[quoted image]
Now 3 wins would be 5M which is ok. But all 8 is 25M!

Thanks for the insight on the Final Battle points, the curve totally makes sense. I'm looking forward to the endgame development!

#2037 3 years ago

....also posted this on the tilt forum:

I did some testing with the glass off (Standard Gameplay Mode).

You get 1 Extra Ball by starting your second episode.
You get 1 Extra Ball by shooting one of the two Pizza Slice targets 14 times.

The setting “Auto” for Extra Balls seems not to be dynamic as seen on other games (thank you). So in total you can only get two Extra Balls, please let me know if you find more!

Pizza Slice rewards:

+7 pieces = Pizza eating contest
+7 pieces = Extraball
+7 pieces = Pizza eating contest
+7 pieces = Pizza eating contest
+7 pieces = Pizza eating contest
…and so on…

Slices can only collected between modes, not during 123, weapon, april, training, team up or turtle power mb. Slices collected during Pizza Multiball or Eating contest will not add up for the slice rewards but you will see it displayed on the screen.

#2043 3 years ago
Quoted from djWHEAT:

As someone who has a Munsters Premium and a TMNT LE, they may seem to have a similar PF layout, but they play radically different (no pun intended). Munsters can be fast, but compared to Turtles it is SLOW. The biggest comparison between the two is the punishment for missed ramps. In fact, I would say my Munsters scores have gone up since picking up my TMNT LE. Code & Progression for Turtles is above and beyond what we get for Munsters. There are so many different combination shots of ramps and different objectives to go for. Unlike Munsters where say, you have done all 4 members and just have to do SPOT, it feels like options are limited. Turtles has 10 different things you could be going for at any given time.
So while the PF may appear similar, I can't stress just how different these two play.

- start episode
- 2 multiballs
- 3 hurry ups (123, weapon and april)
- training
- mini wizard modes (team ups)
- wizard mode

#2048 3 years ago

FYI this happened after 600 balls coming out of the trough with the minimum power of 167 and Mylar in place.
This is a total joke. I just saw it because my shooterlane protector just arrived (not available before) and i wanted to install it.
Afraid of the poor PF quality i checked the left and right ball feed of the ramps... i did protect only one side, the other side started to chip already too so i added 2 layers of Mylar there. I am afraid what comes next. The dimpling is very present, this will look ugly as f... in a few months.

I am shocked about the soft wood/clearcoat combo, wondering why noone has mentioned chipping until now, time will tell. From the first day i tried to protect my game as good as possible.

IMG_20200808_145216 (resized).jpgIMG_20200808_145216 (resized).jpg
#2161 3 years ago

I'm having a hard time post passing from left to right and I saw that on alot of streams too. The problem is that there is also NO ramp feed from the left flipper to the right one. And there are often situation where you HAVE to shoot from the right flipper. Also if the center ramp is required and you have the ball on the left flipper, the ball feed from the right ramp is so fast that i can hit the center ramp maybe 1/10 from that feed... the right orbits post/plunger is closed alot of times too if I need the ball on the upper flipper. This in combination with those punishing targets and ramp post makes it very frustrating.

I repositioned the bottom post of the left sling shot because it has some play but it didn't help. Any ideas?

#2196 3 years ago

thanks all for the input on the post pass. Alley passes are no option, too risky over all. I know about the post pass timing, and i get the ball to the other side most of the time, but often i cant cradle it and i do not get a clean shot. The ricochet shot is interesting too, i have to practice it, its a really small spot you have to hit, not as hard as snikt I do not want to change the post, i want to keep it original.

another thing which bothers me is the inconsistent feed from the ramp to the left flipper. sometimes its fast and sometimes too slow. Most of the time i try to do a ski pass (whats the real name? just lift the left flipper and give it a nudge to help the ball transfer to the right flipper). often the ball is so slow, it wont make it to the other side. any fix for that?

Quoted from billrz:

LE build date July 16 check in. 476 plays, no grainy art, diverter works perfectly, only small scratch on ramp (refer to pics) looks like from testing. Art is under star post with washer. Pizza motor started making noise after about 100 plays,turned it off for a week or so , turned it back on the day new code came out, didn’t make noise for many many games but has started grinding off n on again, but not that often (Makes no sense). Also I notice the ball is hitting the metal above the lair targets, it’s actually denting it (pics) and probably hurting my balls (hehe;)any remedies (I think I saw something way back in this thread) ? . This game is great, it’s super unfortunate some people are are having bigger problems. I hope it’s not the majority and highly doubt it is. Hopefully stern corrects the issues people are having,otherwise have fun playing !! I’m loving this game!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

its post #1869

nice to hear you enjoy the game,

#2257 3 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

I don't know about anyone else, but I wish the modes scored more points. 25,000 or 35,000 points per shot really just doesn't add up to much, especially when some modes don't really need many shots to complete. In contrast, the big points seem to be nestled in the April Hurry Ups as those can be very lucrative. Maybe multiply mission scoring by x4 or x5? Or is that too much then? I'm just thinking out loud to see what others think.
Rob

+1!
real points are in multiball imo
you can get bigger points if you keep repeating 123, weapon, april, training... but for me it never was lucrative, since i always drain on some point.
on the Pizza multiball i got plenty of points compared to the other points (20mio +)

Dwight is thinking about adding more reward points for mastering all episodes and eventually adding some other rewards for it at least!

#2272 3 years ago
Quoted from MutterFudder:

I've noticed two things on 1.11, wondering if anyone else is seeing these as well:
- When missing the skill shot, the audio sounds blown out/clipping.
- On some modes/screens, my screen looks like it has a few dead/stuck green pixels. It's not all the time or on all the screens, so I don't think I actually have dead pixels, but I'm not sure if it's in the software or not.

I have the sound bug too, but its not just at the skill shot. stern is already investigating this issue.
I did not notice the pixels, but i dont look often on the screen

#2290 3 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

Are you sure your LE backbox speakers are set to 8ohm in the utilities?
Rob

I have the PRO version. It seems its just the cabinet sub whats affected, but I am already in contact with stern. I did the OHM check, swapped the speaker and the CPU board with no success. Some sounds are really bad like the enter initial backspace sound:

#2300 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballnewb01:

When on Free Play and pushing the start button once, my TMNT sometimes starts a 2-player game. Is this a common issue?

yes, also seen on the Deadflip streams

#2423 3 years ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

According to one of Vid's tutorials on cleaning a playfield. most of the 'dust' is metal from the coils firing if I remember correctly. 1st vaccuum it, then wipe clean. Hope that's right!

metal dust on the PF? I have never seen this before. The dust from the coils fall down from the mechs under the PF.

#2429 3 years ago

After playing this game for quite a time now I am interested how you think about the modes and hurry ups.

To me it feels like there is always a minimode/hurry up running and overwriting the episodes with music.
This totally kicks me out of the feeling of the episodes. Mainly its 123 or weapon interrupting the episodes.
I love the music of episode 8, but i was never able to hear it becaus 123 or weapon ALWAYS starts in between.
This feels wrong, i can not dive into the game and everything is generic to me.
Now take the randomness of the modes and its even more caotic and has no feeling of progression.

The story/progression is missing over all.

#2456 3 years ago
Quoted from Hewitttech:

So the LE is my first pinball. I noticed when I got it the right ramp sign had been in contact with the glass during shipping and rubbed scratches into the glass coating. Not a huge deal but also thought the sign looked a little bent. I have played it a few hundred games now and it has been fine but just had the ball kick back from what seemed like the right ramp gate wire. I started looking at and noticed the ramp plastic is cracked where it mounts. I don't know if I just never noticed it or it happened while playing but I don't remember seeing it last week when I cleaned things of ball crud. Maybe it was overtightened and the ball hitting it made it crack? Is this something that would be covered under warranty? I have no problems working on and fixing pins but just curious what the best thing for me to do would be...
I feel the left drain problem and like 60% of the time the lair drop does a double bounce to drain o cant stop. Other times it is like the balls a re magnetic to the left drain wall but can't sense any residual magnetism in the stock balls that came with it.
I have had one ball get hard stuck behind the van twice now and have to remove the glass the get it. I will look at the diverted etc as others have mentioned if I have to replace the ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I knew it, and I'm really sorry you are the first one who found this out the hard way.
I have had a TWD and the right ramp was broken too because of flying balls, especially when hitting the ball on the fly from an orbit shot.
This spot is a predetermined breaking point so you have to make sure it can't get hit.
I saw that sign shaking from the beginning and i knew it will break sooner or later.

Here is what i alread wrote on post #1881

"The best and easiest thing i did is the airball protector on the right ramp. It is important to screw it on both sides of the ramp so it will stabilize the whole ramp and the Training sign with the switch will not rumble and it cant be hit from flying balls. I can't believe how smooth that ramp feels now, rock solid but like silk. if you build one too, make sure you take material you can bend with hot water (PETG for example), because attachment on the bottom is too high for a straight piece. Do not screw it to the rubber posts that will be too low for fast balls!"
7ab0cab488e668ccbc9fc341c084f84151e20732.gif7ab0cab488e668ccbc9fc341c084f84151e20732.gifff18e2bae9a37204fcb5163ca20227e95cb0aea9 (resized).jpgff18e2bae9a37204fcb5163ca20227e95cb0aea9 (resized).jpg

35
#2457 3 years ago

KRANG MOD GUIDE (pro model)

I am very proud and i hope you enjoy this mod too, it came out way better than i thought.
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Buy this Toy: Neca Donatello vs Krang
neca (resized).pngneca (resized).png

Cut the back of Krang for the LED illumination
cutting (resized).jpgcutting (resized).jpglumin (resized).jpglumin (resized).jpg

Drill a hole in Krangs mechsuit in the size of a LED Socket and hot glue it from the back later. Make sure you do not glue where the LED has to be attached, for a good electrical connection and you can swap LEDs later too. I did use a cold white 8 SMD LED, make sure Krang has enough room in the mechsuit too because of the LED inside. Glue Krangs arms into his mechsuit, so they don't get lost.
hot glue (resized).jpghot glue (resized).jpgled front (resized).jpgled front (resized).jpg

The LED connection has to be solderd on the red LED of the Krang insert. So Krang will light up when you shoot the center loop, he does his call outs or the Krang shot Hurry up is running. You can see the two blue heat shrink tubings, those are the cables I cut and where I soldered in the Krang cables too, make sure you don't mix +/- connection. You always can go into LED test in the settings, make sure to press the coin door switch, otherwise the LED test will not work.
led soldering (resized).jpgled soldering (resized).jpg

I attached the toy with a cable clamp, just make sure the toys feet don't get under the pop bumper.
mounting (resized).jpgmounting (resized).jpgtop view (resized).jpgtop view (resized).jpg

#2461 3 years ago
Quoted from Kiwipinhead:

That was Sterns new $99 add on.

hehe unfortunately they will never sell such upgrades for the pro model because noone will buy premiums anymore

#2467 3 years ago
Quoted from jurulz:

Awsome!! The only feature that i want from a Premium/LE. Can you show us a video in action with sound?

#2470 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Nice job. We have one similar. I was hesitant to tap off the node board and most of our customers cant solder so we tapped off the pop bumper with clips, it’s just easier for most people. Ours can be retrofitted if anyone wants to solder as shown by Prodoshi. We mount ours over the screw on the hex post with a mount we made, I think it’s more stable. Prodoshi, if you want the mount, let me know, happy to send you one.

thanks, but the last order from the US took about 5 months via USPS

#2522 3 years ago

The game is so hard, its just frustrating every time. I made i to the wizard mode two times.
Brick shots everywhere, just tell me one save shot... not even talking about the left outlane.

The code makes it not rewarding and with all those hurry ups interupting episodes (sound) i do not feel connected to story.
What i also really miss is the kinetic satisfaction, not even close to JP2 or DP. I want do FEEL the game.

I am sure the game will drop down the top 100... I really wanted to love this game. I will wait for the next code update but you cant fix physics, just code.

just some info how you get the Extraball (super boring)...
Take Michelangelo plunge around the orbit hold up the upper flipper and the ball will hit the pizza target, let it drain.
Ballsave, repeat. On the 3rd ball shoot the ball lock, plunge around the orbit again and get your pizza slice, repeat until multiball.
Everytime you lose a ball make the orbit plunge and collect a pizza slice. you can only collect in between modes.
with 14 slices you light your EB... boring but the extra ball will help you for mode progression.

#2527 3 years ago

You are probably right about me overplaying it, thanks for the input! I will give it more time, thats also why i did not rated the game until now, I need more time with it and I'm in hope for a essential code update- also with the sound issue I'm having. About the difficulty, it took me longer on JP and DP to reach the wizard modes thats right, but it also was satisfying and rewarding to get there. What i am talking about is the punishment and little to no influence you have on it at TMNT. This also makes most side modes not worth it. Watch deadflip streams, thats exactly how i get beaten up too.

So you are saying the shots feel satisfying and rewarding to you?

#2535 3 years ago

thanks for all your feedback, maybe this title is just not for me, but as I said i will keep it for now and give myself a little bit more time.

#2539 3 years ago
Quoted from HookedonPinonics:

So you are saying you made it to Cowabunga 2 times already?

no of course not, sorry for being not clear. just the first one after completing all episodes.

#2555 3 years ago
Quoted from Waxx:

I wouldn't use that but I'm curious. Are you thinking about replacing the thin post and covering the art? It would look strange but I guess it would do the trick.
[quoted image]

wow, you have a small post there not like me, i bet you get A LOT of outlane drains.

#2581 3 years ago
Quoted from acons017:

Congrats man! I’m expecting my premium Thursday. It’s also my first pin.
Sorry for the silly question, but is common practice to wax a new pin before using it? I thought they were good to go out of the box. If so I better get my hands on some wax. Any suggestions?

imo do not wax it, the ball will be so fast you have no chance. Novus 1 from time to time is enough to clean the PF of new pins, even this has a strong ball effect for some games after cleaning. you can swap out black rubbers with trasparent silicone rubbers to reduce rubber residue on the PF.
Personal hint, do not swap the black post rubbers with silicone rubbers, thos are way bouncier leading to instant drains.

Quoted from Yoko2una:

You have to remove the entire mech from the game and disassemble all the way to the gearbox innards to lubricate in order to get rid of the pizza grinding. Pain in the ass but worth it. No way to do it without full removal and disassembly.

Are you sure about this, i have had extrem grinding noise and i got rid of it by using silicon grease on the 2 white washers.
Is your spinner totally quiet right now? if so i will open the gearbox too and grease it. I saw there are really tiny parts in there, and would not recommend to open it.

#2599 3 years ago

I wonder why noone complained about the Pro translite in the backbox. Of course the art and everthing is top notch but the bandana of raph and donny look nearly the same when the translite is lit. The same goes for the flashers domes in the game, both are more like a red color.

#2622 3 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

I replaced the black hard plastic post protectors with these thinner translucent rubber protectors that I bought for my Alice Cooper. These are about as thin as they make them but I was surprised the black protectors originally were hard plastics. The ball is a lot more forgiving and I’ve got that ramp more often. Definitely has helped with the bricks that drain
[quoted image]

those break in a few hundered games, I have been there

#2624 3 years ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

Man I got to level 4 on training and it feels like I just completed a mini wizard mode. I think a EB and/or a multiball would be a great reward for this. It would feel good and would offer a different path to a high score. The EB’s feel weird on the code, sometimes they pop up like no big deal and other times they just don’t come .

I think those where the pop bumper awards.
You get one by starting your second episode and one for collecting 14 pizza slices between episodes (not during multiballs!)

#2733 3 years ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

Premium reporting in, and all appears well! Had some software bugs it seemed in the first couple of games (didn't register that TPMB had ended, didn't properly register that P1 had ended and switched to P2, that sort of thing), but have played for a while since and haven't noticed those issues yet again.
Playfield was built 6/29/2020, game was assembled 8/12/2020. Full art beneath star post in left outlane, with washer beneath. No pooling to note. No streaky/grainy "inkjet" artwork. I haven't taken the PF apart to look at the rail behind the van, but looking through the glass, I don't see any wear or scratches, whether before or after playing all evening. Glider, pizza, and van all seem to be functioning properly. I don't hear any grinding from the pizza, though I do have other sounds going in the arcade (the other pinball machines, the Arcade1Up cabinets, the TV playing the 90s X-Men or 80s TMNT, a barcade playlist, etc.), so it's possible that it's making the noise and we just can't hear it yet.
This game is fast and mean, and the scores feel depressingly low (whether you do "well" or not), but we're having a blast with it, and really look forward to learning the ruleset and how this table plays. I'm definitely in the camp of "I hope the scores get adjusted to feel more rewarding," but to be fair, I am comparing against Star Wars and Jurassic Park, which have much higher scoring than this game. The high thus far tonight is a 13m game, with a few 4-8m games peppered in, but the majority are probably sub-1, which...well, we don't know how to handle the speed and penalties for bricking on this table yet
A fantastic addition to the collection, which is growing at an alarming rate, with no signs of slowing down!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

nice, waiting for images of your mods

#2826 3 years ago
Quoted from zeldarioid:

Man, I love this game, but BOY HOWDY is it a drain monster! And I thought Star Wars was brutal, woof!

do you know your drain numbers from the audits?
I have -left 413 -middle 1015 -right 145

I'm stil wondering if my game is at the right pitch, I am between 6.5 and 7.0° since its not straight, and I'm having a hard time shooting the middle ramp. I do not like outlane modifications since i want to keep the original difficulty, but I'm at a point where fun suffers too much from it. The Targets rebound alone would be enough punishment.

#2847 3 years ago
Quoted from shaub:

What about changing the setting for switching the Battle Again outlane with the flipper buttons instead of the slingshots? You still have to light Battle Again so its definitely not a gimme ball save by any means. It also makes Michelangelo that much better.

Yeah i have done that, but I'm stil not used to it since im always concentrating on the outlane nudging until it drains and I haven't had a pin until now with that feature.

There are some unlucky factors which make the game not so pleasing:
Ski passes (transfer passes, nudge over passes) and post passes are essential to get the ball to the right flipper, but both are very inconsistant.

Quoted from zeldarioid:

Audits here currently are:
Total plays: 207
Left drains: 132 (29%)
Center drains: 253 (55%)
Right drains: 73 (16%)
I am set at 6.5 degrees pitch, leveled left to right. Controlling the ball in this game is key, but that's rather tricky to do because things move so quickly and come back to you so aggressively, whether via a bricked shot or just from the natural flow of the game. It doesn't help that, even with the plumb bob on the lowest setting, the game is still hyper sensitive to tilt warnings/tilt, which makes slap saving (which frequently need to be big slaps) dangerous, and of course, the outlanes don't really allow for juggling and spitting the ball back out. If it reaches the outlane, and it's GOING to reach the outlane, then RIP.
It doesn't help that I'm really stubborn, and am very reluctant to do things that aren't "how the game was meant to be played," i.e. adding a double post, or a band on the outlane, or a bouncy knob on the outlane wall, etc. I feel bad enough altering any settings, like ball save timer increases, or changing Replays to Extra Balls. I feel like it invalidates my play if I change things, because I'm not "actually playing the game," if that makes sense. I know those settings are there for people to use as they like, but I dunno. I'm a Dark Souls player, and a software engineer, if that gives you any insight into my "I will continue to ram my head into this wall until I break through, rather than go around it" type of personality...which is exhausting!

you are not alone, thanks for the infos, I also do not like random extra balls from pop bumpers...

here are those passes leading to drains... I know i missread the ballspeed here and could have saved it, but just with an uncontrolled risky shot.

#2867 3 years ago
Quoted from kh39540:

Anyone noticed the game randomly adding another player? Too often, after starting a one player game, there is suddenly a second player after end of ball. I know I hit start only once...

I have this about every 5th game, just check the audits 1 & 2 player count.

#2869 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Good. Ours were the first pro batch. Playfield colours are great. Bit of dimples after ramp drops into left orbit.
Does anyone know how to select turtle with action button and not have to launch ball? Otherwise hard to do skill shot. Not used to plunge then hold down left flipper then release and then go for inner ramp or loop. xaqery is that some option where action button selects turtle and does NOT launch ball?

Or make it possible drop the diverter plunger with the left flipper button 0.5 second AFTER launch too, this way no need for another launch button press.

#2871 3 years ago

Anyone getting flying balls shooting the left orbit on the fly? It hits the plastic ramp above there.
I'm not sure if a DIY Airball protector will be in the way when a ball drops off the right ramp, ill check that.

#2905 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I am now fine with the counter intuitive way of going past the turtle or knowing your turtle is about to be selected before you hold down the button. It is a bit different but I'm ok with that. Thanks to waxx and shaub for helping me out with this. It would have been more elegant for pro owners to have the selection and launch as separate but I agree it is ok how it is. I was wrong, sorry Dwight. It is good that he added this skill shot feature in for pro owners and he shouldn't have an idiot like me whinge about it.
Edit: there was another pinsider that would have liked this change as well for what it's worth.
Thanks for pointing out that pros understand what I don't. Personally I think action buttons for starting games and launching balls is not required. At least I can deactivate the start game with the action button. It's fun when you reach across to turn off the game and my jacket pushes against the action button and starts a game just while I'm turning it off.

why so whiny, stand by your opinion. IMO it feels weired and not right- code could fix that. Dwight reads this and really cares about his work. If he thinks its the right decision he will do something about it. You where not rude IMO, so where is the problem? from my view, there have been enough pins with an alternative ball launch enabled by pressing the left flipperbutton during ball launch. thats not possible here with ball one (just with a workaround), but it works on ball 2 and 3 as known from other pins.

Regarding the left loop i came to the same conclusion yesterday by making slowmo videos. I happens alot on high speed balls because the ball has another "bouncing pattern" off of the left ball guide, rattles from left to right an eventually even jumps up to the ramp exit.
I built 3 differnt airball protectors with no success, because balls are getting stopped coming down from the ramp exit from a right ramp shot. As they leave the ball exit they bounce up into the air a littlebit, and thats where they get cought by the airball protector. So no fix from my side.
I have had the same problem with DP on the left orbit and since there is no exit like the pizza parlor i was able to build my own ball guide there, its much more enjoyable now!
dp01 (resized).jpgdp01 (resized).jpgtmnt01 (resized).jpgtmnt01 (resized).jpg

#2907 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Haha. I should man up!
Got sick of asking for fixes to pirates that never happened.
Good to see you got the same behaviour with your Left orbit. It’s almost as though the right rail Before the opening could be opened up a bit more. I think it narrows too much.

Yeah, a solid metal guide and a little wider space would help. I also have this problem on my JP2 center spinner shot where the ball enters the orbit. The inside of the orbit is also made with those cheap metal rails, these are springy so the ball tends to rattle there and eventually starts flying into the pterandon ramps hex post. I think its a question of money, they could make a game feeling smoother of course, maybe even would be worth it thinking about it. I have had that problem now on 4 stern titles, and i just owned 5

#2947 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I'm getting weird shaker activity. Little single pulses like before ball launch or just at certain times in the game when nothing is happening. I have checked all my switches, can't see anything triggering other than dip switches, ball trough etc.
Is anyone else experiencing this?
Edit: found what it is. When pizza stops spinning. Really annoying. It’s like a hurry up pulse that does nothing but piss me off.
Double edit: yet nothing for getting a weapon skill shot. It also pulses for hitting dimension X and add time. Ok those switches start the pizza.
So please remove pulses for pizza spin start and stop and add for weapon hurry ups and foot 123 hits.

I also think its activated too often over all, especially the target hits are too much imo because those get hit every few seconds, at least in my games

#2951 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

So before we start slagging mod companies, can someone confirm that pizza spin start or stop causes shaker motor to pulse?
Thanks.

It pulses at the beginning and the end of the pizza spin. At both dimension x targets, both pizza targets and the 2x PF target.
So nothing wrong with your game!

#2961 3 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Perhaps the programmer thought it would be a good indicator to the player to know when the pizza stops or starts without looking by that tactile feel?

Dwight is aware of it and he said he like it that way. No need to discuss further... however he eventually will revisit the shaker motor effects.

#3006 3 years ago
Quoted from joelbob:

In my opinion you can’t have enough shaker. Just adds more dimension. Code in everything you want and that becomes the Maximum setting. People can pick a different setting if they don’t want as much.
My only request is to have the action button change to the same color of the turtle you are playing. I think it is weird it is always blue.
Lastly in Krangs second mode there are two red shots that move. What is the significance of them compared to the yellow shots? The prompt just says shoot lit shots.
So far I’m loving this game!

It is like Meg in DP. Shoot the red shots, yellow arrows are the spots where the red arrows can move to. If you shoot yellow, red cant go there anymore.

Quoted from Bmwdrummer:

This is 100% accurate and we noticed it as well. Not a big deal and I've seen other "fixes" disclosed in the past that weren't in fact addressed. I'm sure they'll get it on the next update. I'm personally loving all the other updates with 1.21!

haha funny, i LOVE the new call out, yes it stands out but it adds so much spice, i think Splinter should have much more of this in his voice!

#3032 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballnewb01:

Does the "Foot Clan spinner" have any purpose?
I only see it counting with some points (K's) on the screen...

It increases the value of the 123 combo shots.
1st shot = 1x the value
2nd shot = 2x
3rd shot = 3x

if you want to max it out you should collect 123 during your last ball because every spinner shot adds up. if you once complete 123, it won't light up again. if you dont collect it, 123 will always light up at your next ball.

#3037 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Hey prodoshi i know you are getting the airballs in the left orbit as well, but are you getting airballs on the right ramp? Sometimes when I hit the ramp on the fly it hits the gate with the switch. Or it hits the start of the plastic airball protector. I have tried to adjust the gate a bit higher but it still happens on occasion. Any ideas?

Yes the left orbit is a brickfest

Luckily I built a airball protector for the right ramp. There was already one person reporting of a broken ramp because of hitting the sign with airballs.

Here is my posting from earlier in this thread including an on-the-fly shot:

Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

The best and easiest thing i did is the airball protector on the right ramp. It is important to screw it on both sides of the ramp so it will stabilize the whole ramp and the Training sign with the switch will not rumble and it cant be hit from flying balls. I can't believe how smooth that ramp feels now, rock solid but like silk. if you build one too, make sure you take material you can bend with hot water (PETG for example), because attachment on the bottom is too high for a straight piece. Do not screw it to the rubber posts that will be too low for fast balls!
Enjoy! (use a scroll saw for cutting the plastic)

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#3053 3 years ago
Quoted from Thomas3184:

I do hit this sign sometimes. Would you be willing to make one for me and sell it to me that I can just bolt on?

Sorry I do not sell anything. Get yourself some PETG 2mm and a scroll saw, its really not hard to build and a good investment. Draw the shape of the protector on a piece of cardboard first and make sure that metal wire- triggering the switch- can swing freely in both directions. you can shape/bend the PETG with boiling water. Look at the images i posted, good luck!

#3066 3 years ago
Quoted from zeagle:

Is anyone else getting their fair share of dimpling on their playfield? I'm a little shy of 100 games and I've noticed there are quite a few dimples in the playfield some bigger than others in quite a few places. Should I be very worried or is that somewhat normal in new pins?
Thanks!

yes, alot and strong dimples here. make sury you remove the wrong positioned mylar in the left orbit where the ball falls down the plasitic ramp and add a new piece of mylar. it should start near the ramps exit and go down to bebops glasses. or you will get the one biggest dimple you have ever seen. the wood seems very soft imo. also add mylar over the switches in the inlanes where the ball drops down from the ramps or it will start to chip there (i have seen first signs there too). Shooter lane also started to chip after a few hundered games- lowest eject power with mylar in place didn't help, better install a protector if you want your game to look nice... with craters. There is also the possibility to add cliffys to the inlane switches but i do not know how well they work. I guess they do.

slot_pro (resized).jpgslot_pro (resized).jpg
#3080 3 years ago
Quoted from shaub:

Just peel it up, clean the area and then a bit of wax and re-apply the new mylar piece.

do you also wax your smartphone when applying a protective glass or foil? makes no sense.
clean the area and keep it oil free, dont touch it for adhesive strength. but maybe you have more information on this.

Quoted from DugFreez:

EDIT: Still no delete on Pinside???

at the bottom of your post, the trash icon.

#3081 3 years ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

do you also wax your smartphone when applying a protective glass or foil, makes no sense.
you want to keep it oil/fat free, dont touch the area for adhesive strength.

at the bottom of your post, the trash icon.

#3095 3 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

Yes...I can still see it and quote it in a follow up.

haha wtf now i see i can drain others posts too...thanks

#3214 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I think it’s been said before, but I wish foot 123 animations did not take precedence over episode animations. There is nothing worse than having a new episode unlocked and rather than watch new scenes unfold your stuck watching foot 123. I don’t mind seeing the knockouts occur as you hit the 3 different combo shots but it should predominantly show the episode footage. Foot 123 and weapon hurry ups should play 2nd fiddle to episode progression.

They already made 123 less more present by disabling lock out from episodes, only playing audio between episodes and only lighting 123 if you haven't already beaten it- thats alot. I was happy to see this, since i hated how it always kicks me out of my favourite episode 8 with the cool music. Since then i got to episode 8 a few more times, only to get interrupted by weapon hurry up instead . If the game wasn't that punishing, 123 and weapon wouldn't feel so disturbing imo, because it could be completed fast. I realised 123 and weapon is a big part of the game, just think of at all the inserts on the PF and the music, but its not rewarding enough for me. Maybe its because I am not the best player or the code is not fitting well yet, what do you think?

-3
#3251 3 years ago

I am sure AIQ will smoke TMNT in any aspect, just ordered my Premium.

1 week later
#3525 3 years ago
Quoted from acons017:

Right there with you. I did see improvement after making a few adjustments. First changing the pitch to ~6.5. I also set the sling strength to 15. I noticed that shots that hit ramp posts would jet So fast for an outlane or down the middle, so I compensated for this by reducing my flipper strength by 40 on the bottom flippers. Reducing the flipper strength was probably the most significant change that helped increase ball times. I plan to increase it incrementally as I get more comfortable with the game.

I reduced my flipper strength and the game felt too soft. no fun...

#3562 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I own deadpool. And I know the Katana ball guide needs a washer underneath to protect the playfield from chipping.
As per advice with turtles from people like prodoshi to protect the lair ball guide before it chips. I did that. Tick. The things we have to do when buying a stern game because they can’t put a rubber washer under a ball guide to stop the playfield from chipping.
But fuck me I’m a stupid owner for not scouring the other spots to check if they are ok. How negligent of me.
I didn’t take all the bits off to protect under the ball guide leading to the pizza parlour.
And I now have a nice big chip.
Thanks Stern. I thought you had learnt from Deadpool.
Thanks to me, because I hadn’t.
Are we meant to just rollover, take our playfields apart As soon as we get a new pin and do what Stern can’t be bothered to do? Or if we miss a bit, are we meant to repair as best we can and then put a washer underneath?
I just don’t understand, they know ball guides attached like this are going to destroy the playfield. Do they not care??
[quoted image][quoted image]

Sorry to hear. From what i have seen AIQ has less ball-guide PF contact points, but they still exist. Just keep posting the damaged clear coat, thats not ok and Stern apparently making concessions with the newest title.

#3592 3 years ago
Quoted from RikeIsland:

This game is kicking my ass. I have it kinda steep but dang. SDTM all night. I haven’t rage quite in a long time but I did tonight. Tomorrow is a new day and I plan on making TMNT my B!@$h. Sorry for the rant.

you better find that sweet spot pitch, its about 6.5!
shots will be easier and you can backhand the right ramp. the game is still frustrating aF

#3681 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Agree with vireland now. I just did the tape on the centre ramp optos. No point having another shield that I don’t need and could impact flow of ball. Thanks Pinmonk.
I did make a shield for the right ramp though as suggested by prodoshi. I changed it a bit though. Added a small spacer to the right post and attached there. Also used 0.8mm thick Flexible polycarbonate on a roll. Can cut it with industrial shears. And punch holes with leather punches. I think it looks ok. Hopefully doesn’t scratch or colour through the years. Much easier to work with than lexan. Even if this is not as good, could be useful for prototyping shields and getting measurements.
[quoted image][quoted image]

nice that you protect the plastic ramp. I noticed more stability of the ramp and less ratteling after installing the protector, but i also used thicker material (2mm), I can't tell if your soft material helps with that too.

#3684 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

My first attempt failed. A flip on the fly usually resulted in a reject from the shield rather than the gate now. I went and studied your shield and studied and studied... and I noticed you did not attach the the top left screw that holds the left ramp protector. You skipped that and attached to the gate above it. This gives more headroom for the shield. I also wondered why is the Ball jumping? And I thought it may be the angle of the ramp is too steep. So I made 2 adjustments.
1) put rubber grommets under my shield at the top to lift it 3mm
2) I lifted the base of the ramp by .8mm by using some of my polycarbonate as a packer. This makes my connection point to the playfield slightly less steep and lessens the bend in the spring steel.
As of 2 games I can report ramp is much easier and I have not had a reject. Early days but I will let you know.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
EDIT: Put on 6 games with lots of multiballs, hitting right ramp now much smoother and no rejects. So packing ramp underneath and adding shield has solved the problem.
Also tape on optos has solved my centre ramp problems so far.

yeah I didn't thought of back rolling balls at first and my protector stopped the switch this direction, so i cut the protector that the gate switch can pass.
I also saw that those rubber posts where much too low for the ball and didn't want to mess with those. I guess I was lucky with the first try
nice to hear it works for you too!

#3705 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Ah, of course, the training sign should have made that obvious to me. It's weird you were having airballs there. I never had anything like that. Is your ramp flap flush with the playfield? Sometimes if the ramp is too tight, the flap will curl a little and raise up. It takes almost nothing to launch an airball, and that could do it.

think of it like the airball protector on the t-rex ramp, the ball has to be low to enter the t-rex mouth. On TMNT it has to pass the gate. I noticed my training sign was shaking heavily from certain shots and saw it was a predetermined bereaking point. The ball doesn't have to go high into the air, normal shots can lead to slight airballs. So i built a protector and some weeks later the first cracking ramp was reported here. The protector also helps with stability because it holds the ramp together from the top, reducing shaking of the sign, and the shots feel smoother, at least in my experience.

#3710 3 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

They probably get tired of everyone asking for a Munsters code update when they post it. Now that’s a title they haven’t give much love but maybe it will be like Gb and get a massive update at some point

"at some point" ... after 3.5 years

#3753 3 years ago
Quoted from Napoleon:

I don't understand where people are getting SPIKE shakers that don't have the bolt across that you can tighten.
Every single one I've bought from Pinball Life has had that bolt. You give it 3 quarter turns before you install, and you're good to go.

I talked to my distributor about that, the rod is just there to align the screw holes of the shaker with the holes of the protector housing.
To adjust the shakers strength unscrew the weights and retight them somewhere between 90 to 180°. the screw will dig into the rod.

However I was not really able to find a nice setting on my stern shaker, it makes the same rumble noise or its too weak... and TMNT shaker setting was lacking- have to take a look at the new code.

#3784 3 years ago

So you like the new code? Noone seems to care...

#3888 3 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I swear PinMonk has a deal with Stern where they only use crappy white LEDs because these games look SO MUCH BETTER with the mod. [quoted image][quoted image]

Are you the one who always advertising those in the threads?
The lightshow on this game is already colorfull and confusing enough. As on Ghostbusters i like the whites as an indicator of progress, so when i see plenty of white lights i know i am progressing. I tried different colors and they are just disturbing imo. And with just a fast look during gameplay whites makes sense.
More is not always more, but thats just me.

#3906 3 years ago
Quoted from Crater:

So I switched all the rubber to Titan rings this last weekend.
I feel like I'm playing a different game all of a sudden. The first thing I noticed in the switch is how the post rubber that comes stock is like a hard plastic. That made a good difference in speed-of-play because I feel like the brick shots are just a tad slower and almost manageable at times.
I think overall, I like the new play in the game but there's one thing that is bugging me.... I had just figured out the LAIR shot by the quick flip back up the left inlane and when it rolls to the end of the flipper you just backhand it in. I was getting pretty good at it, but now the quick flip doesn't get the ball up the inlane enough to get that backhand to the LAIR.
Other than that I really like how it's slowed the game just the tiniest bit.

if i understood you right, the game is slower with the new post rubbers? I tried this once with standard silicone rubbers and they where so freaking fast with the rebouds i swiched back to the hard rubbers. What rubbers did you buy?

1 week later
-1
#4029 3 years ago

I still read this thread and I feel like Prem/LE buyers have nothing but problems, especially with the last code update.
EVERY extra mech in this game was reported for not working and are still getting reported- Glider, Turtle Van and Diverter. I am just happy i was able to sell my PRO with no issues, if I would have bought a LE, I couldn't have sold the non working machine... very concerning, because the trust in the resellability is why I am buying NIB games.

2 weeks later
#4260 3 years ago
Quoted from shaub:

I think the game shoots good, personally. It's just a tough shooter with some tight shots. And code could still save the game from a lot of the difficulty that leads to frustration.
I also think the LAIR shot is awesome, it's one of my favourite aspects of the game! The current question is whether its WORTH hitting. If the code adequately rewarded you for shooting it, the shot's difficulty could be justified.
But, unfortunately, if we're waiting for code revisions, I suspect we're gonna have a bad time.

Tight shots? Where in this game is one tight shot? JP has tight shots, i still play the game every day and i love how challanging it is.
The shots in TMNT are just punishing AF with this left outlane and tons of high risk targets next to nearly every important shot, now add an unsatisfying code and you have TMNT.
Last code update was one month ago with nearly no change, final battle was a really unsatisfying experience for me. I drained with ball two on the second stage and wasn't able to continue with ball three, the game just starts over again and scoring was weak.
IMO It could have been a good machine with some layout and code adjustments- not happening.

#4294 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I respectfully disagree. Both orbits are tight. Inner ramp and loop are tricky. Right ramp is sort of tight and closer to the flippers than a lot of ramps. Lair is hard for a lot of people until they sharpen their skills.
I’ve played a bit of JP2 and I don’t find the shots that hard.
As to frustrating and cheap, once the left outlane is fixed the game does not have cheap drains. Try TWD.
As to drains when missing shots, WCS, NGG, AFM will all bounce SDTM if you hit a ramp post. These are easy games. They drain. Why is turtles so unfair.
No orbits drain if I rattle them, left ramp fail does not drain, right ramp fail sometimes. Pizza parlour reject always kicks to the left and goes safely to left flipper. Stand ups don’t drain for me. The only shot that I miss that can piss me off besides hitting a ramp post is if I miss with the upper left flipper and go straight down right outlane.
I love the code. And the shots. I get a buzz and sometimes I’m frustrated. But isn’t that why we play for the challenge? I get it that it’s not the hobbit and I can’t have a 1 hour game. But that’s not what I want. I want the fast frenzy of turtles and I don’t mind short games.
You’ve sold your game. Stop coming into the owners club and shitting on our game. All the best dude!

thats fair.

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