Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I want to share my game experience and the modifications I made for damage prevention, in hope this helps and saves you some time. (TMNT PRO)
ADD WASHERS:
Add washers under every ballguide where its needed, its like on every other new stern machine - the metal guide will work its way through the clear coat into the wood, causing the clear coat to chip. This will cost you the most time but its essential, since it can just take a few games until damage is done. 2-4 seconds with a hot air gun on the already existing pooling on the clear coat will be enough to flaten it out before you add the washers. I use metal washers but there are other options too. Make sure the washers inside diameter is a littlebit bigger than the threaded rod, since the rods get thicker on one side and can cause space between the washer and the ball guide itslef. I did not photograph every ball guide, so try to understand where those washers are needed. Only add them where a threaded pole is attached and under the brackets of the ball guides.
HINT: take alot of fotos when you disassemble the game.
LAIR SHOT:
The edge of the ballguide stands out too far and can cause damage to the balls and sharp metal pieces which will cause damage on you PF. Remove the guide, its easily bent with your hands. It will also bend the opposite side of the ball guide a little bit, but it will not affect the ball there.
BALL FEED LEFT RAMP ( = left inlane exit):
Add Mylar there, they forgot it and I bet it wont take long to cause damage in this vulnerable area!
BALL FEED CENTER RAMP ( = right inlane exit):
Also add Myler at the ramp exit where the ball drops on the inlane
BALL FEED RIGHT RAMP ( = upper flipper feed):
The ramp is attached with 2 screws. Loosen them up and push the ramp as far as you can to the left side and tighten the screws again. This helps to get a more consistent feed to the upper flipper.
PIZZA SPINNER:
Make sure its leveled as flat as possible. For adjustment loosen up those 2 big hex head screws (very tight, take care).
The spinner is loud from factory, mine took about 30 games until it really started screaming. I added a little bit of Lithium grease on those two white plastic washers, this solved the grinding noise issue.
BALL TROUGH AND SHOOTER LANE:
Reduce the trough eject power to the lowest setting to prevent shooter lane clear coat chipping. If the ball doesn't make it up into the shooter lane, increase the power step by step. Make sure to protect the ball trough and shooter lane with mylar or some kind of protector. Practice has shown those areas can be damaged after just a few games.
UPPER FLIPPER:
If you have alot of airballs or cant hit the Krang Kombo, reduce the flipper power in the settings, this has helped me.
I also see a problem there with the ball feed since the metal guide is not aligned with the flipper, maybe leading to unconsistent shots, I will investigate this further.
GAME FLOW HINT:
You can make the full orbit shot for every manual AND auto launch when pressing the left flipper button at the time where the ball leaves the shooter lane. This way you avoid the slow Pop Bumpers and make the Krang Kombo or nice and fast on-the-fly shots to the right orbit or ramp (Katanarama style). You also can do a loop pass or live catch (hard). Caution, the extra ball speed from on-the-fly shots is potentially destructive for the right ramp, so i made a airball protector for it.
Lair fix:
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Mylar at left Ramp feed
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Pizza Mech
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Left ramp screw and ball guide fix
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Added washers images
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Upper flipper feed gap
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Airball Protector DIY
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Here is a guide from hurryup pinball on how to install the mylar:
Awesome work. Thank you for posting.
Just looking at the lair shot and the metal bracket behind the flipper.
I notice it travels along the side rail on the playfield and then turns a right angle to the flipper. I noticed above this is the plastic with a gi lamp underneath. But there is a fair bit of room between this metal bracket and the light. If this metal bracket had a inverted cup or dome shape so the ball could travel up further would this cause less bounce outs? Or is the bouncing happening more off the side rail. Just wondering if we could make the space bigger to catch the ball rather than rebound.
Maybe a modder could come up with something?
Almost would have been good to have a magnet in there to catch the ball...
Any ideas?
Regina, SK
if so,I’ll grease those washers I guess
Sydney
Prince Frederick, MD
. But from first 10 games or so, All around great game.
I don’t have the game nor have dealt with this issue, but with my experience with STH, we took the notes stern gave us and improved them to fully fix the issue for good. 
