Another code update. Crazy how much they are working to make this code even better!
Quoted from Happy81724:Another code update. Crazy how much they are working to make this code even better!
Guess STERN knows they have a hit on their hands!
The new gem shot. Put some dead foam back there or drop the upper flipper at the right time to help push it in.
Quoted from Aniraf:Can we all just agree this shot is impossible and the game is terrible because of it?
I’m kidding, but really. It is impossible right? The only way I can make the shot on my machine is to bank it off of the April target.
[quoted image]
It's hard, but it's not impossible. The amount of rejects it spawns is something that should have been fixed in development at Stern, though.
It's challenging but not that hard. Try it from a rolling backhand, right near the end of the flipper. If that fails work on your timing to drop the left flipper when shooting it from the right.
Quoted from ectobar:5 consecutive lair shot challenge?
I think I could do it.
I tried the same thing. Decided to do a 100 shot challenge. 18 out of 100
Quoted from Aniraf:Can we all just agree this shot is impossible and the game is terrible because of it?
I’m kidding, but really. It is impossible right? The only way I can make the shot on my machine is to bank it off of the April target.
[quoted image]
Change your flipper rubbers to Titan low bounce. Makes it MUCH easier when it bounces off the underside of the upper flipper.
Quoted from Aniraf:Can we all just agree this shot is impossible and the game is terrible because of it?
I’m kidding, but really. It is impossible right? The only way I can make the shot on my machine is to bank it off of the April target.
[quoted image]
I initially would have agreed and thought this shot is shit. But it has become my guilty pleasure Milk Can shot. What I love most about it is that you think the right flipper is the way to get it in there, but it’s a mirage. The left flipper slow roll backhand is money and it feels great. My dumbass still gets caught picking Leo and trying a forehand on it. I’ll never learn, but that’s another reason why it’s so damn good.
Quoted from Happy81724:Haha....that’s what I did. Went from 3 Arcade’s to 1 mame and 10 pins
Pretty much! Once the bug catches you its quick. I had a mame arcade I loved. Then got my first pin 1.5 years ago. Now have 4 pins and want more.....
DEA, L+R, 4L, 1R, 5L, 1R, 1L, 2R
Quoted from epichoff:Does anyone know the deadflip code?
the initial to remember how many left flips, 4,5,1. The other code is ABC.
Quoted from Pinhead306:What’s DEA?
Quoted from chuckwurt:The new gem shot. Put some dead foam back there or drop the upper flipper at the right time to help push it in.
Fine line between a Gem Shot and a Sim Card Shot.
Im a big fan of behind the flipper shots - they're intimidating at first (particularly for a noob), but once you get it, it becomes addictive.
How important is this shot anyway?
I want to share my game experience and the modifications I made for damage prevention, in hope this helps and saves you some time. (TMNT PRO)
ADD WASHERS:
Add washers under every ballguide where its needed, its like on every other new stern machine - the metal guide will work its way through the clear coat into the wood, causing the clear coat to chip. This will cost you the most time but its essential, since it can just take a few games until damage is done. 2-4 seconds with a hot air gun on the already existing pooling on the clear coat will be enough to flaten it out before you add the washers. I use metal washers but there are other options too. Make sure the washers inside diameter is a littlebit bigger than the threaded rod, since the rods get thicker on one side and can cause space between the washer and the ball guide itslef. I did not photograph every ball guide, so try to understand where those washers are needed. Only add them where a threaded pole is attached and under the brackets of the ball guides.
HINT: take alot of fotos when you disassemble the game.
LAIR SHOT:
The edge of the ballguide stands out too far and can cause damage to the balls and sharp metal pieces which will cause damage on you PF. Remove the guide, its easily bent with your hands. It will also bend the opposite side of the ball guide a little bit, but it will not affect the ball there.
BALL FEED LEFT RAMP ( = left inlane exit):
Add Mylar there, they forgot it and I bet it wont take long to cause damage in this vulnerable area!
BALL FEED CENTER RAMP ( = right inlane exit):
Also add Myler at the ramp exit where the ball drops on the inlane
BALL FEED RIGHT RAMP ( = upper flipper feed):
The ramp is attached with 2 screws. Loosen them up and push the ramp as far as you can to the left side and tighten the screws again. This helps to get a more consistent feed to the upper flipper.
PIZZA SPINNER:
Make sure its leveled as flat as possible. For adjustment loosen up those 2 big hex head screws (very tight, take care).
The spinner is loud from factory, mine took about 30 games until it really started screaming. I added a little bit of Lithium grease on those two white plastic washers, this solved the grinding noise issue.
BALL TROUGH AND SHOOTER LANE:
Reduce the trough eject power to the lowest setting to prevent shooter lane clear coat chipping. If the ball doesn't make it up into the shooter lane, increase the power step by step. Make sure to protect the ball trough and shooter lane with mylar or some kind of protector. Practice has shown those areas can be damaged after just a few games.
UPPER FLIPPER:
If you have alot of airballs or cant hit the Krang Kombo, reduce the flipper power in the settings, this has helped me.
I also see a problem there with the ball feed since the metal guide is not aligned with the flipper, maybe leading to unconsistent shots, I will investigate this further.
GAME FLOW HINT:
You can make the full orbit shot for every manual AND auto launch when pressing the left flipper button at the time where the ball leaves the shooter lane. This way you avoid the slow Pop Bumpers and make the Krang Kombo or nice and fast on-the-fly shots to the right orbit or ramp (Katanarama style). You also can do a loop pass or live catch (hard). Caution, the extra ball speed from on-the-fly shots is potentially destructive for the right ramp, so i made a airball protector for it.
Lair fix:
unbenannt-1 (resized).jpg
unbenannt-2 (resized).jpg
unbenannt-3 (resized).jpg
Mylar at left Ramp feed
unbenannt-10 (resized).jpg
Pizza Mech
pizza mech (resized).jpg
Left ramp screw and ball guide fix
unbenannt-4 (resized).jpg
Added washers images
unbenannt-7 (resized).jpg
unbenannt-8 (resized).jpg
unbenannt-9 (resized).jpg
Upper flipper feed gap
unbenannt-6 (resized).jpg
Airball Protector DIY
IMG_20200805_211241 (resized).jpg
Here is a guide from hurryup pinball on how to install the mylar:
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I want to share my game experience and the modifications I made for damage prevention, in hope this helps and saves you some time. (TMNT PRO)
ADD WASHERS:
Add washers under every ballguide where its needed, its like on every other new stern machine - the metal guide will work its way through the clear coat into the wood, causing the clear coat to chip. This will cost you the most time but its essential, since it can just take a few games until damage is done. 2-4 seconds with a hot air gun on the already existing pooling on the clear coat will be enough to flaten it out before you add the washers. I use metal washers but there are other options too. Make sure the washer is big enough since those attached threaded rods get thicker on one side and can cause space between the washer and the ball guide itslef.
LAIR SHOT:
The edge of the ballguide stands out too far and can cause damage to the balls and sharp metal pieces which will cause damage on you PF. Remove the guide, its easily bent with your hands. The bend will also happen on the inside of the layer shot metal guide, but it will not affect the ball there.
BALL FEED LEFT RAMP ( = left inlane exit):
Add Mylar there, they forgot it and I bet it wont take long to cause damage in this vulnerable area!
BALL FEED RIGHT RAMP ( = upper flipper feed):
The ramp is attached with 2 screws. Loosen them up and push the ramp as far as you can to the left side and tighten the screws again. This helps to get a more consistent feed to the upper flipper.
PIZZA SPINNER:
Make sure its leveled as flat as possible. For adjustment loosen up those 2 big hex head screws (very tight, take care).
The spinner is loud from factory, mine took about 30 games until it really started screaming. I added a little bit of Lithium grease on those two white plastic washers, this solved the grinding noise issue.
BALL TROUGH AND SHOOTER LANE:
Reduce the trough eject power to the lowest setting to prevent shooter lane crear coat chipping. If the ball doesn't make it up into the shooter lane, increase the power step by step. Make sure to protect the ball trough and shooter lane with mylar or some kind of protector. Practice has shown those areas can be damaged after just a few games.
UPPER FLIPPER:
If you have alot of airballs or cant hit the Krang Kombo, reduce the flipper power in the settings, this has helped me.
I also see a problem there with the ball feed since the metal guide is not aligned with the flipper, maybe leading to unconsistent shots, I will investigate this further.
GAME FLOW HINT:
You can make the full orbit shot for every manual AND auto launch when pressing the left flipper button at the time where the ball leaves the shooter lane. This way you avoid the slow Pop Bumpers and make the Krang Kombo or nice and fast on-the-fly shots to the right orbit or ramp (Katanarama style). You also can do a loop pass or live catch (hard). Caution, the extra ball speed from on-the-fly shots is potentially destructive for the right ramp, so i made a airball protector for it. (image included)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
Thanks, Prodoshi! This will be very useful for when my Pro is delivered (hopefully this week). Distributor said it shipped Monday but I won't hear from them until it reaches local terminal.
thanks
Medisinyl for the top notch mods
MrCleanHead for the super clean looking plastics
Robertstone0407 for the powder coat
our community wouldn't be the same without yall.20200803_154416 (resized).jpg
20200805_095217 (resized).jpgI wonder if the pizza spinner should have had a thrust bearing instead of those 2 nylon washers.
Rob
Quoted from mbrave77:Pretty much! Once the bug catches you its quick. I had a mame arcade I loved. Then got my first pin 1.5 years ago. Now have 4 pins and want more.....
Got a Bally Star Trek two years, a NIB Guardians last year and now have those plus a Maiden Premium and TMNT Pro and want more haha
Quoted from Thomas3184:DEA, L+R, 4L, 1R, 5L, 1R, 1L, 2R
What do these codes do and how and when do you put them in ?
Quoted from cldgin2:What do these codes do and how and when do you put them in ?
Attract mode. Use the flippers. It does an Easter eggs animation on the display.
Quoted from cldgin2:What do these codes do and how and when do you put them in ?
DEA or 451 you put use them like this:
B = Both buttons
L = Left flipper button
R = Right flipper Button
in Attract mode you press this sequence
B LLLLR LLLLLR LRR
written out: both, left, left, left, left, right, left, left, left, left, left, right, left, right, right
The letters are like the number they have in alpabet, A=1, B=2, C=3, D=4...
the first number or letter will end with R (right button)
The last numer or letter will end with two Rs
as this is most of the time same pattern, people tend to shorten the squence with just 3 letters or numbers.
on some games there is hidden stuff that can be activated by a sequence of this "flipper codes"
just try out and have look.
Put it in while you are on the attract mode. It will play a short video clip. Press both flippers, then 4 left, 1 right, etc.
Quoted from cldgin2:What do these codes do and how and when do you put them in ?
As
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I want to share my game experience and the modifications I made for damage prevention, in hope this helps and saves you some time. (TMNT PRO)
ADD WASHERS:
Add washers under every ballguide where its needed, its like on every other new stern machine - the metal guide will work its way through the clear coat into the wood, causing the clear coat to chip. This will cost you the most time but its essential, since it can just take a few games until damage is done. 2-4 seconds with a hot air gun on the already existing pooling on the clear coat will be enough to flaten it out before you add the washers. I use metal washers but there are other options too. Make sure the washer is big enough since those attached threaded rods get thicker on one side and can cause space between the washer and the ball guide itslef.
LAIR SHOT:
The edge of the ballguide stands out too far and can cause damage to the balls and sharp metal pieces which will cause damage on you PF. Remove the guide, its easily bent with your hands. It will also bend the opposite side of the ball guide a little bit, but it will not affect the ball there.
BALL FEED LEFT RAMP ( = left inlane exit):
Add Mylar there, they forgot it and I bet it wont take long to cause damage in this vulnerable area!
BALL FEED RIGHT RAMP ( = upper flipper feed):
The ramp is attached with 2 screws. Loosen them up and push the ramp as far as you can to the left side and tighten the screws again. This helps to get a more consistent feed to the upper flipper.
PIZZA SPINNER:
Make sure its leveled as flat as possible. For adjustment loosen up those 2 big hex head screws (very tight, take care).
The spinner is loud from factory, mine took about 30 games until it really started screaming. I added a little bit of Lithium grease on those two white plastic washers, this solved the grinding noise issue.
BALL TROUGH AND SHOOTER LANE:
Reduce the trough eject power to the lowest setting to prevent shooter lane crear coat chipping. If the ball doesn't make it up into the shooter lane, increase the power step by step. Make sure to protect the ball trough and shooter lane with mylar or some kind of protector. Practice has shown those areas can be damaged after just a few games.
UPPER FLIPPER:
If you have alot of airballs or cant hit the Krang Kombo, reduce the flipper power in the settings, this has helped me.
I also see a problem there with the ball feed since the metal guide is not aligned with the flipper, maybe leading to unconsistent shots, I will investigate this further.
GAME FLOW HINT:
You can make the full orbit shot for every manual AND auto launch when pressing the left flipper button at the time where the ball leaves the shooter lane. This way you avoid the slow Pop Bumpers and make the Krang Kombo or nice and fast on-the-fly shots to the right orbit or ramp (Katanarama style). You also can do a loop pass or live catch (hard). Caution, the extra ball speed from on-the-fly shots is potentially destructive for the right ramp, so i made a airball protector for it.
Lair fix:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Mylar at left Ramp feed
[quoted image]
Pizza Mech
[quoted image]
Left ramp screw and ball guide fix
[quoted image]
Added washers images
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Upper flipper feed gap
[quoted image]
Airball Protector DIY
[quoted image]
Here is a guide from hurryup pinball on how to install the mylar:
As a follow up i want to complete my posting.
I realigned the left orbit for a better upper flipper feed, its perfect now. Caution, just drill new holes into the playfield if you know what you are doing!
The best and easiest thing i did is the airball protector on the right ramp. It is important to screw it on both sides of the ramp so it will stabilize the whole ramp and the Training sign with the switch will not rumble and it cant be hit from flying balls. I can't believe how smooth that ramp feels now, rock solid but like silk. if you build one too, make sure you take material you can bend with hot water (PETG for example), because attachment on the bottom is too high for a straight piece. Do not screw it to the rubber posts that will be too low for fast balls!
Enjoy!
20200805_212957.gifIMG_20200805_210744 (resized).jpgIMG_20200805_211241 (resized).jpg
Added over 4 years ago:EDIT: you do not have to realign the left orbit, its not worth it imo.
Could you clarify what you mean by adjusting the ramp for the upper flipper feed? I understand the push back and to the left, but not clear what you're showing with the other red circle there (is it just highlighting adding a washer?).
Also, thanks for the tip on ball drop mylar. I used to apply it to every game but forgot to even check since Stern had been doing it from the factory. I also added some to the right side drop.
Quoted from ctl723:Could you clarify what you mean by adjusting the ramp for the upper flipper feed? I understand the push back and to the left, but not clear what you're showing with the other red circle there (is it just highlighting adding a washer?).
Also, thanks for the tip on ball drop mylar. I used to apply it to every game but forgot to even check since Stern had been doing it from the factory. I also added some to the right side drop.
you are right, thats just the spot for the washer. just pull the ramp as far as possible to the left and you should be good to go.
Haha i really forgot the right side mylar! thank you
Quoted from CPanther95:Lol... I watched that for like 45 seconds before realizing it was a gif.
I was watching it thinking someday I'll be that good.
Quoted from Thomas3184:What size washers are correct to put under those ball guides?
I use 0.46 inch (=11,7mm) outside diameter and about 0.2 inch (=5.2) inside diameter.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I use 0.46 inch (=11,7mm) outside diameter and about 0.2 inch (=5.2) inside diameter.
That is all really good info, thanks for sharing.
I would put Cliffys in the shooter lane instead of mylar. Mylar could lift the clear if ever you want to remove it, we learnt this the hard way. Make sure the eject power is turned down and this will help a lot as well. Just my opinion.
Thanks, so like #10 washers.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I use 0.46 inch (=11,7mm) outside diameter and about 0.2 inch (=5.2) inside diameter.
Quoted from JonCBrand:Can anyone recommend a source for mylar sheets? Im seeing dimensions/specs all over the board.
Pinrestore
Quoted from Pinman502:Is it just me or does it seem like the medieval madness guys come out in force to keep anything else from being on top but a 30-year-old game I seen a rating of one on turtles that would’ve made it the worst game in history I don’t see how someone could hate it that much
This is exactly what the owners or fanboys of MB, MM, and AFM do to keep these 30 year old relics of the past on top. They are good games no denying, but they had their day in the spotlight many many years ago and now it’s time for the modern games to shine. I’d hate to think in 30 years time the industry hasn’t been able to improve, as these people seem to think. Unfortunately these type people jealously guard their nostalgia feelings for these 3 games in particular so much, when a real top 5 game comes out, they make sure it is pounded down by false score ratings to keep their sacred cows on top. It is why the top 100 is a joke, imo.
For glaring example: Look at how new and innovative the layout, animatronic TRex and such on JP is and yet it is held back to #4 spot because of these old schoolers false ratings, designed to keep the 30 year old much shallower coded games at the top 3 positions!
TMNT should remain the number one position imo, if old schoolers were really honest with themselves. It’s a game that has it all codewise, layout, lighting, sounds/music, with amazing art! Team Stern went all out on this one.
Pulling ramps, adding washers, oiling the pizza motor, drilling new holes....
Are you guys really serious?
Here are my 2 minute tips after unboxing:
- clean the playfield (1 min)
- replace the balls (30 sec)
- adjust the ball eject power to 176 (30 sec)
- play the machine (2-3 hours a day).
Got ours now for 12 days.
150 games and counting.
The day I even consider to drill into the playfield, is the day I will sell my machine.
Now I go back to play this fantastic game.
Quoted from Thunderbird:This is exactly what the owners or fanboys of MB, MM, and AFM do to keep these 30 year old relics of the past on top. They are good games no denying, but they had their day in the spotlight many many years ago and now it’s time for the modern games to shine. I’d hate to think in 30 years time the industry hasn’t been able to improve, as these people seem to think. Unfortunately these type people jealously guard their nostalgia feelings for these 3 games in particular so much, when a real top 5 game comes out, they make sure it is pounded down by false score ratings to keep their sacred cows on top. It is why the top 100 is a joke, imo.
For glaring example: Look at how new and innovative the layout, animatronic TRex and such on JP is and yet it is held back to #4 spot because of these old schoolers false ratings, designed to keep the 30 year old much shallower coded games at the top 3 positions!
TMNT should remain the number one position imo, if old schoolers were really honest with themselves. It’s a game that has it all codewise, layout, lighting, sounds/music, with amazing art! Team Stern went all out on this one.
Put a MM, AFM, or MB in your collection for a while and then maybe you could decide? If you like the fancy lights and music, make it a remake LE. Those 3 games 100% deserve to have the spots they hold in the Pinside top 100. Although I love Sterns and JJPs, not one of them has kept me pushing the button for over 20 years like MM, AFM and MB. They are classics for a reason.
Hopefully we will start getting Turtles games in OZ soon! Cowabunger dude!
Quoted from Thunderbird:This is exactly what the owners or fanboys of MB, MM, and AFM do to keep these 30 year old relics of the past on top. They are good games no denying, but they had their day in the spotlight many many years ago and now it’s time for the modern games to shine. I’d hate to think in 30 years time the industry hasn’t been able to improve, as these people seem to think. Unfortunately these type people jealously guard their nostalgia feelings for these 3 games in particular so much, when a real top 5 game comes out, they make sure it is pounded down by false score ratings to keep their sacred cows on top. It is why the top 100 is a joke, imo.
For glaring example: Look at how new and innovative the layout, animatronic TRex and such on JP is and yet it is held back to #4 spot because of these old schoolers false ratings, designed to keep the 30 year old much shallower coded games at the top 3 positions!
TMNT should remain the number one position imo, if old schoolers were really honest with themselves. It’s a game that has it all codewise, layout, lighting, sounds/music, with amazing art! Team Stern went all out on this one.
You do realise you have used these same tactics in your ratings as well. I notice how you have scored each of these 3 games plus JJP POTC. Although pirates left my collection, it is still worth more than 3 out of 10.
New games are rated too highly by the owners. And then non owners get the shits and rate them down to provide equilibrium. If you want this practice to stop then remove the 10 for turtles that you don’t own and have not even played yet and get rid of the low pirates rating. Because there are pirates owners who are upset by your low rating! (Or probably not)
Sorry don’t mean this as an attack. Just notice that you have posted this same thing multiple times. It ain’t going to happen. People love those three games. Just like you love Munsters. We own mostly modern pins and my wife’s fave is AFM. As for simple, I will never get to RTU. Do I want it as my only pin? No. But a lot of people love them and you can’t tell people what to like.
Be happy dude! It’s all good! The more people covet these older pins is good for you and me, I’m picking up older stern pros like TWD for affordable prices because it’s not one of these top 3. Heaps of choices. Enjoy!
Quoted from gumnut01:You do realise you have used these same tactics in your ratings as well. I notice how you have scored each of these 3 games plus JJP POTC. Although pirates left my collection, it is still worth more than 3 out of 10.
New games are rated too highly by the owners. And then non owners get the shits and rate them down to provide equilibrium. If you want this practice to stop then remove the 10 for turtles that you don’t own and have not even played yet and get rid of the low pirates rating. Because there are pirates owners who are upset by your low rating! (Or probably not)
Sorry don’t mean this as an attack. Just notice that you have posted this same thing multiple times. It ain’t going to happen. People love those three games. Just like you love Munsters. We own mostly modern pins and my wife’s fave is AFM. As for simple, I will never get to RTU. Do I want it as my only pin? No. But a lot of people love them and you can’t tell people what to like.
Be happy dude! It’s all good! The more people covet these older pins is good for you and me, I’m picking up older stern pros like TWD for affordable prices because it’s not one of these top 3. Heaps of choices. Enjoy!
You’re probably right I should change my POTC rating, because I like the game. Just rated it there because of all the PF and sub quality issues at the time. Had friends battling those issues. All good and happy!
Of course my friend, I own the game TMNT. I did not rate it 10, but where I think it should be according to how the false Pinside top 100 antics work.
If people are so enamored with AFM, then why do these same people blast ST that is basically an updated AFM, with much deeper code, by the same designer???
Quoted from Thunderbird:You’re probably right I should change my POTC rating, because I like the game. Just rated it there because of all the PF and sub quality issues at the time. Had friends battling those issues. All good and happy!
Man I was one of those people. If our Australian distro hadn't supported me I would have been up shit creek. It was the most temperamental pin. I loved it at the time but overplayed it. 3 or 4 times a day. But it certainly is packed!
Anyway enuff about other pins. I think and hope Turtles will be awesome, really looking forward to it. Still 1-2 weeks away! And I think it will be up there in the top 20. Problem is so many good pins and only 20 slots. If only 50 pins could be in the top 20.
A bit of a pain that this one needs some tweaking to stop problems from happening but this is where pinside shines. I would have a chipped deadpool, a TWD that drains all the time and no idea how to correct issues with the pirates I had without the help of pinside (oh wait TWD still drains all the time )
Quoted from gumnut01:Man I was one of those people. If our Australian distro hadn't supported me I would have been up shit creek. It was the most temperamental pin. I loved it at the time but overplayed it. 3 or 4 times a day. But it certainly is packed!
Anyway enuff about other pins. I think and hope Turtles will be awesome, really looking forward to it. Still 1-2 weeks away! And I think it will be up there in the top 20. Problem is so many good pins and only 20 slots. If only 50 pins could be in the top 20.
A bit of a pain that this one needs some tweaking to stop problems from happening but this is where pinside shines. I would have a chipped deadpool, a TWD that drains all the time and no idea how to correct issues with the pirates I had without the help of pinside (oh wait TWD still drains all the time )
Okay, maybe I misunderstood your earlier post, so all good.
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