(Topic ID: 271489)

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Club(Stern 2020): Cowabunga! It’s Pizza Time!

By Tuxedomask23

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

You

Topic poll

“Which model are you going to purchase”

  • Pro 285 votes
    50%
  • Premium 166 votes
    29%
  • LE 119 votes
    21%

(570 votes)

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_5963 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5968 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5969 (resized).jpeg
turtles (resized).jpg
IMG_3566 (resized).jpeg
PXL_20240316_051625591 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240316_034508453 (resized).jpg
IMG_3277 (resized).JPG
20240308_213544 (resized).jpg
20240308_211320 (resized).jpg
20240308_211805 (resized).jpg
20240215_093714 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
1EB20A79-521C-4BEB-AAA6-F2E7D64EE9D1 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 11,972 posts in this topic. You are on page 38 of 240.
#1851 3 years ago

Another code update. Crazy how much they are working to make this code even better!

#1852 3 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Another code update. Crazy how much they are working to make this code even better!

Guess STERN knows they have a hit on their hands!

#1853 3 years ago

Can we all just agree this shot is impossible and the game is terrible because of it?

I’m kidding, but really. It is impossible right? The only way I can make the shot on my machine is to bank it off of the April target.

5A3A77F1-A69E-4F9C-B784-E1CD7E0D8A93 (resized).jpeg5A3A77F1-A69E-4F9C-B784-E1CD7E0D8A93 (resized).jpeg
#1854 3 years ago

The new gem shot. Put some dead foam back there or drop the upper flipper at the right time to help push it in.

#1855 3 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Can we all just agree this shot is impossible and the game is terrible because of it?
I’m kidding, but really. It is impossible right? The only way I can make the shot on my machine is to bank it off of the April target.
[quoted image]

It's hard, but it's not impossible. The amount of rejects it spawns is something that should have been fixed in development at Stern, though.

#1856 3 years ago

5 consecutive lair shot challenge?

I think I could do it.

#1857 3 years ago

It's challenging but not that hard. Try it from a rolling backhand, right near the end of the flipper. If that fails work on your timing to drop the left flipper when shooting it from the right.

#1858 3 years ago

Just received my shipping confirmation as well and it will be here Thursday. Whoot!!

#1859 3 years ago
Quoted from ectobar:

5 consecutive lair shot challenge?
I think I could do it.

I tried the same thing. Decided to do a 100 shot challenge. 18 out of 100

#1860 3 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Can we all just agree this shot is impossible and the game is terrible because of it?
I’m kidding, but really. It is impossible right? The only way I can make the shot on my machine is to bank it off of the April target.
[quoted image]

Change your flipper rubbers to Titan low bounce. Makes it MUCH easier when it bounces off the underside of the upper flipper.

#1861 3 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Can we all just agree this shot is impossible and the game is terrible because of it?
I’m kidding, but really. It is impossible right? The only way I can make the shot on my machine is to bank it off of the April target.
[quoted image]

I initially would have agreed and thought this shot is shit. But it has become my guilty pleasure Milk Can shot. What I love most about it is that you think the right flipper is the way to get it in there, but it’s a mirage. The left flipper slow roll backhand is money and it feels great. My dumbass still gets caught picking Leo and trying a forehand on it. I’ll never learn, but that’s another reason why it’s so damn good.

#1862 3 years ago

Does anyone know the deadflip code?

#1863 3 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Haha....that’s what I did. Went from 3 Arcade’s to 1 mame and 10 pins

Pretty much! Once the bug catches you its quick. I had a mame arcade I loved. Then got my first pin 1.5 years ago. Now have 4 pins and want more.....

#1864 3 years ago

DEA, L+R, 4L, 1R, 5L, 1R, 1L, 2R

Quoted from epichoff:

Does anyone know the deadflip code?

#1865 3 years ago

What’s DEA?

Quoted from Thomas3184:

DEA, L+R, 4L, 1R, 5L, 1R, 1L, 2R

#1866 3 years ago

the initial to remember how many left flips, 4,5,1. The other code is ABC.

#1867 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The new gem shot. Put some dead foam back there or drop the upper flipper at the right time to help push it in.

Fine line between a Gem Shot and a Sim Card Shot.

Im a big fan of behind the flipper shots - they're intimidating at first (particularly for a noob), but once you get it, it becomes addictive.

How important is this shot anyway?

#1868 3 years ago

Hello Folks

I luckily was able to get Coin Takers last LE and ships tomorrow

Anything particular I should
Do on TMNT LE before I roll the first ball

Links to posts etc are welcome

Very excited

28
#1869 3 years ago

I want to share my game experience and the modifications I made for damage prevention, in hope this helps and saves you some time. (TMNT PRO)

ADD WASHERS:
Add washers under every ballguide where its needed, its like on every other new stern machine - the metal guide will work its way through the clear coat into the wood, causing the clear coat to chip. This will cost you the most time but its essential, since it can just take a few games until damage is done. 2-4 seconds with a hot air gun on the already existing pooling on the clear coat will be enough to flaten it out before you add the washers. I use metal washers but there are other options too. Make sure the washers inside diameter is a littlebit bigger than the threaded rod, since the rods get thicker on one side and can cause space between the washer and the ball guide itslef. I did not photograph every ball guide, so try to understand where those washers are needed. Only add them where a threaded pole is attached and under the brackets of the ball guides.
HINT: take alot of fotos when you disassemble the game.

LAIR SHOT:
The edge of the ballguide stands out too far and can cause damage to the balls and sharp metal pieces which will cause damage on you PF. Remove the guide, its easily bent with your hands. It will also bend the opposite side of the ball guide a little bit, but it will not affect the ball there.

BALL FEED LEFT RAMP ( = left inlane exit):
Add Mylar there, they forgot it and I bet it wont take long to cause damage in this vulnerable area!

BALL FEED CENTER RAMP ( = right inlane exit):
Also add Myler at the ramp exit where the ball drops on the inlane

BALL FEED RIGHT RAMP ( = upper flipper feed):
The ramp is attached with 2 screws. Loosen them up and push the ramp as far as you can to the left side and tighten the screws again. This helps to get a more consistent feed to the upper flipper.

PIZZA SPINNER:
Make sure its leveled as flat as possible. For adjustment loosen up those 2 big hex head screws (very tight, take care).
The spinner is loud from factory, mine took about 30 games until it really started screaming. I added a little bit of Lithium grease on those two white plastic washers, this solved the grinding noise issue.

BALL TROUGH AND SHOOTER LANE:
Reduce the trough eject power to the lowest setting to prevent shooter lane clear coat chipping. If the ball doesn't make it up into the shooter lane, increase the power step by step. Make sure to protect the ball trough and shooter lane with mylar or some kind of protector. Practice has shown those areas can be damaged after just a few games.

UPPER FLIPPER:
If you have alot of airballs or cant hit the Krang Kombo, reduce the flipper power in the settings, this has helped me.
I also see a problem there with the ball feed since the metal guide is not aligned with the flipper, maybe leading to unconsistent shots, I will investigate this further.

GAME FLOW HINT:
You can make the full orbit shot for every manual AND auto launch when pressing the left flipper button at the time where the ball leaves the shooter lane. This way you avoid the slow Pop Bumpers and make the Krang Kombo or nice and fast on-the-fly shots to the right orbit or ramp (Katanarama style). You also can do a loop pass or live catch (hard). Caution, the extra ball speed from on-the-fly shots is potentially destructive for the right ramp, so i made a airball protector for it.

Lair fix:
unbenannt-1 (resized).jpgunbenannt-1 (resized).jpg
unbenannt-2 (resized).jpgunbenannt-2 (resized).jpg
unbenannt-3 (resized).jpgunbenannt-3 (resized).jpg

Mylar at left Ramp feed
unbenannt-10 (resized).jpgunbenannt-10 (resized).jpg

Pizza Mech
pizza mech (resized).jpgpizza mech (resized).jpg

Left ramp screw and ball guide fix
unbenannt-4 (resized).jpgunbenannt-4 (resized).jpg

Added washers images
unbenannt-7 (resized).jpgunbenannt-7 (resized).jpg
unbenannt-8 (resized).jpgunbenannt-8 (resized).jpg
unbenannt-9 (resized).jpgunbenannt-9 (resized).jpg

Upper flipper feed gap
unbenannt-6 (resized).jpgunbenannt-6 (resized).jpg
Airball Protector DIY
IMG_20200805_211241 (resized).jpgIMG_20200805_211241 (resized).jpg

Here is a guide from hurryup pinball on how to install the mylar:

#1870 3 years ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

I want to share my game experience and the modifications I made for damage prevention, in hope this helps and saves you some time. (TMNT PRO)
ADD WASHERS:
Add washers under every ballguide where its needed, its like on every other new stern machine - the metal guide will work its way through the clear coat into the wood, causing the clear coat to chip. This will cost you the most time but its essential, since it can just take a few games until damage is done. 2-4 seconds with a hot air gun on the already existing pooling on the clear coat will be enough to flaten it out before you add the washers. I use metal washers but there are other options too. Make sure the washer is big enough since those attached threaded rods get thicker on one side and can cause space between the washer and the ball guide itslef.
LAIR SHOT:
The edge of the ballguide stands out too far and can cause damage to the balls and sharp metal pieces which will cause damage on you PF. Remove the guide, its easily bent with your hands. The bend will also happen on the inside of the layer shot metal guide, but it will not affect the ball there.
BALL FEED LEFT RAMP ( = left inlane exit):
Add Mylar there, they forgot it and I bet it wont take long to cause damage in this vulnerable area!
BALL FEED RIGHT RAMP ( = upper flipper feed):
The ramp is attached with 2 screws. Loosen them up and push the ramp as far as you can to the left side and tighten the screws again. This helps to get a more consistent feed to the upper flipper.
PIZZA SPINNER:
Make sure its leveled as flat as possible. For adjustment loosen up those 2 big hex head screws (very tight, take care).
The spinner is loud from factory, mine took about 30 games until it really started screaming. I added a little bit of Lithium grease on those two white plastic washers, this solved the grinding noise issue.
BALL TROUGH AND SHOOTER LANE:
Reduce the trough eject power to the lowest setting to prevent shooter lane crear coat chipping. If the ball doesn't make it up into the shooter lane, increase the power step by step. Make sure to protect the ball trough and shooter lane with mylar or some kind of protector. Practice has shown those areas can be damaged after just a few games.
UPPER FLIPPER:
If you have alot of airballs or cant hit the Krang Kombo, reduce the flipper power in the settings, this has helped me.
I also see a problem there with the ball feed since the metal guide is not aligned with the flipper, maybe leading to unconsistent shots, I will investigate this further.
GAME FLOW HINT:
You can make the full orbit shot for every manual AND auto launch when pressing the left flipper button at the time where the ball leaves the shooter lane. This way you avoid the slow Pop Bumpers and make the Krang Kombo or nice and fast on-the-fly shots to the right orbit or ramp (Katanarama style). You also can do a loop pass or live catch (hard). Caution, the extra ball speed from on-the-fly shots is potentially destructive for the right ramp, so i made a airball protector for it. (image included)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thanks, Prodoshi! This will be very useful for when my Pro is delivered (hopefully this week). Distributor said it shipped Monday but I won't hear from them until it reaches local terminal.

#1871 3 years ago

Wow that’s a ton of tweaking...

#1872 3 years ago

thanks

Medisinyl for the top notch mods

MrCleanHead for the super clean looking plastics

Robertstone0407 for the powder coat

our community wouldn't be the same without yall.20200803_154416 (resized).jpg20200803_154416 (resized).jpg

20200805_095217 (resized).jpg20200805_095217 (resized).jpg
#1873 3 years ago

Going to be putting washers down on my NIB LE

Did anyone by chance inventory what quantity and sizes used to protect the field

Want to have everything ready when the game arrives

Thank you all

So excited

My first NIB in quite along time

#1874 3 years ago

I wonder if the pizza spinner should have had a thrust bearing instead of those 2 nylon washers.

Rob

#1875 3 years ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Pretty much! Once the bug catches you its quick. I had a mame arcade I loved. Then got my first pin 1.5 years ago. Now have 4 pins and want more.....

Got a Bally Star Trek two years, a NIB Guardians last year and now have those plus a Maiden Premium and TMNT Pro and want more haha

#1876 3 years ago
Quoted from Thomas3184:

DEA, L+R, 4L, 1R, 5L, 1R, 1L, 2R

What do these codes do and how and when do you put them in ?

#1877 3 years ago
Quoted from cldgin2:

What do these codes do and how and when do you put them in ?

Attract mode. Use the flippers. It does an Easter eggs animation on the display.

#1878 3 years ago
Quoted from cldgin2:

What do these codes do and how and when do you put them in ?

DEA or 451 you put use them like this:
B = Both buttons
L = Left flipper button
R = Right flipper Button

in Attract mode you press this sequence
B LLLLR LLLLLR LRR
written out: both, left, left, left, left, right, left, left, left, left, left, right, left, right, right

The letters are like the number they have in alpabet, A=1, B=2, C=3, D=4...
the first number or letter will end with R (right button)
The last numer or letter will end with two Rs

as this is most of the time same pattern, people tend to shorten the squence with just 3 letters or numbers.

on some games there is hidden stuff that can be activated by a sequence of this "flipper codes"
just try out and have look.

#1879 3 years ago

Put it in while you are on the attract mode. It will play a short video clip. Press both flippers, then 4 left, 1 right, etc.

Quoted from cldgin2:

What do these codes do and how and when do you put them in ?

13
#1880 3 years ago

Just got the notice mine is on the way! Good luck to everyone waiting on theirs too!

Screen Shot 2020-08-05 at 12.54.38 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-08-05 at 12.54.38 PM (resized).png
#1881 3 years ago

As

Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

I want to share my game experience and the modifications I made for damage prevention, in hope this helps and saves you some time. (TMNT PRO)
ADD WASHERS:
Add washers under every ballguide where its needed, its like on every other new stern machine - the metal guide will work its way through the clear coat into the wood, causing the clear coat to chip. This will cost you the most time but its essential, since it can just take a few games until damage is done. 2-4 seconds with a hot air gun on the already existing pooling on the clear coat will be enough to flaten it out before you add the washers. I use metal washers but there are other options too. Make sure the washer is big enough since those attached threaded rods get thicker on one side and can cause space between the washer and the ball guide itslef.
LAIR SHOT:
The edge of the ballguide stands out too far and can cause damage to the balls and sharp metal pieces which will cause damage on you PF. Remove the guide, its easily bent with your hands. It will also bend the opposite side of the ball guide a little bit, but it will not affect the ball there.
BALL FEED LEFT RAMP ( = left inlane exit):
Add Mylar there, they forgot it and I bet it wont take long to cause damage in this vulnerable area!
BALL FEED RIGHT RAMP ( = upper flipper feed):
The ramp is attached with 2 screws. Loosen them up and push the ramp as far as you can to the left side and tighten the screws again. This helps to get a more consistent feed to the upper flipper.
PIZZA SPINNER:
Make sure its leveled as flat as possible. For adjustment loosen up those 2 big hex head screws (very tight, take care).
The spinner is loud from factory, mine took about 30 games until it really started screaming. I added a little bit of Lithium grease on those two white plastic washers, this solved the grinding noise issue.
BALL TROUGH AND SHOOTER LANE:
Reduce the trough eject power to the lowest setting to prevent shooter lane crear coat chipping. If the ball doesn't make it up into the shooter lane, increase the power step by step. Make sure to protect the ball trough and shooter lane with mylar or some kind of protector. Practice has shown those areas can be damaged after just a few games.
UPPER FLIPPER:
If you have alot of airballs or cant hit the Krang Kombo, reduce the flipper power in the settings, this has helped me.
I also see a problem there with the ball feed since the metal guide is not aligned with the flipper, maybe leading to unconsistent shots, I will investigate this further.
GAME FLOW HINT:
You can make the full orbit shot for every manual AND auto launch when pressing the left flipper button at the time where the ball leaves the shooter lane. This way you avoid the slow Pop Bumpers and make the Krang Kombo or nice and fast on-the-fly shots to the right orbit or ramp (Katanarama style). You also can do a loop pass or live catch (hard). Caution, the extra ball speed from on-the-fly shots is potentially destructive for the right ramp, so i made a airball protector for it.
Lair fix:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Mylar at left Ramp feed
[quoted image]
Pizza Mech
[quoted image]
Left ramp screw and ball guide fix
[quoted image]
Added washers images
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Upper flipper feed gap
[quoted image]
Airball Protector DIY
[quoted image]
Here is a guide from hurryup pinball on how to install the mylar:

As a follow up i want to complete my posting.

I realigned the left orbit for a better upper flipper feed, its perfect now. Caution, just drill new holes into the playfield if you know what you are doing!

The best and easiest thing i did is the airball protector on the right ramp. It is important to screw it on both sides of the ramp so it will stabilize the whole ramp and the Training sign with the switch will not rumble and it cant be hit from flying balls. I can't believe how smooth that ramp feels now, rock solid but like silk. if you build one too, make sure you take material you can bend with hot water (PETG for example), because attachment on the bottom is too high for a straight piece. Do not screw it to the rubber posts that will be too low for fast balls!

Enjoy!

20200805_212957.gif20200805_212957.gifIMG_20200805_210744 (resized).jpgIMG_20200805_210744 (resized).jpgIMG_20200805_211241 (resized).jpgIMG_20200805_211241 (resized).jpg

Added over 4 years ago:

EDIT: you do not have to realign the left orbit, its not worth it imo.

#1882 3 years ago

Could you clarify what you mean by adjusting the ramp for the upper flipper feed? I understand the push back and to the left, but not clear what you're showing with the other red circle there (is it just highlighting adding a washer?).

Also, thanks for the tip on ball drop mylar. I used to apply it to every game but forgot to even check since Stern had been doing it from the factory. I also added some to the right side drop.

#1883 3 years ago

Lol... I watched that for like 45 seconds before realizing it was a gif.

#1884 3 years ago
Quoted from ctl723:

Could you clarify what you mean by adjusting the ramp for the upper flipper feed? I understand the push back and to the left, but not clear what you're showing with the other red circle there (is it just highlighting adding a washer?).
Also, thanks for the tip on ball drop mylar. I used to apply it to every game but forgot to even check since Stern had been doing it from the factory. I also added some to the right side drop.

you are right, thats just the spot for the washer. just pull the ramp as far as possible to the left and you should be good to go.

Haha i really forgot the right side mylar! thank you

#1885 3 years ago
Quoted from CPanther95:

Lol... I watched that for like 45 seconds before realizing it was a gif.

I was watching it thinking someday I'll be that good.

#1886 3 years ago

What size washers are correct to put under those ball guides?

#1887 3 years ago
Quoted from Thomas3184:

What size washers are correct to put under those ball guides?

I use 0.46 inch (=11,7mm) outside diameter and about 0.2 inch (=5.2) inside diameter.

#1888 3 years ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

I use 0.46 inch (=11,7mm) outside diameter and about 0.2 inch (=5.2) inside diameter.

That is all really good info, thanks for sharing.

I would put Cliffys in the shooter lane instead of mylar. Mylar could lift the clear if ever you want to remove it, we learnt this the hard way. Make sure the eject power is turned down and this will help a lot as well. Just my opinion.

#1889 3 years ago

Thanks, so like #10 washers.

Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

I use 0.46 inch (=11,7mm) outside diameter and about 0.2 inch (=5.2) inside diameter.

#1890 3 years ago

I use #8 fiber washers and they work great.

#1891 3 years ago

Can anyone recommend a source for mylar sheets? Im seeing dimensions/specs all over the board.

#1892 3 years ago
Quoted from JonCBrand:

Can anyone recommend a source for mylar sheets? Im seeing dimensions/specs all over the board.

Pinrestore

-1
#1893 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinman502:

Is it just me or does it seem like the medieval madness guys come out in force to keep anything else from being on top but a 30-year-old game I seen a rating of one on turtles that would’ve made it the worst game in history I don’t see how someone could hate it that much

This is exactly what the owners or fanboys of MB, MM, and AFM do to keep these 30 year old relics of the past on top. They are good games no denying, but they had their day in the spotlight many many years ago and now it’s time for the modern games to shine. I’d hate to think in 30 years time the industry hasn’t been able to improve, as these people seem to think. Unfortunately these type people jealously guard their nostalgia feelings for these 3 games in particular so much, when a real top 5 game comes out, they make sure it is pounded down by false score ratings to keep their sacred cows on top. It is why the top 100 is a joke, imo.

For glaring example: Look at how new and innovative the layout, animatronic TRex and such on JP is and yet it is held back to #4 spot because of these old schoolers false ratings, designed to keep the 30 year old much shallower coded games at the top 3 positions!

TMNT should remain the number one position imo, if old schoolers were really honest with themselves. It’s a game that has it all codewise, layout, lighting, sounds/music, with amazing art! Team Stern went all out on this one.

#1894 3 years ago

Pulling ramps, adding washers, oiling the pizza motor, drilling new holes....
Are you guys really serious?

Here are my 2 minute tips after unboxing:
- clean the playfield (1 min)
- replace the balls (30 sec)
- adjust the ball eject power to 176 (30 sec)
- play the machine (2-3 hours a day).

Got ours now for 12 days.
150 games and counting.

The day I even consider to drill into the playfield, is the day I will sell my machine.

Now I go back to play this fantastic game.

#1895 3 years ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

This is exactly what the owners or fanboys of MB, MM, and AFM do to keep these 30 year old relics of the past on top. They are good games no denying, but they had their day in the spotlight many many years ago and now it’s time for the modern games to shine. I’d hate to think in 30 years time the industry hasn’t been able to improve, as these people seem to think. Unfortunately these type people jealously guard their nostalgia feelings for these 3 games in particular so much, when a real top 5 game comes out, they make sure it is pounded down by false score ratings to keep their sacred cows on top. It is why the top 100 is a joke, imo.
For glaring example: Look at how new and innovative the layout, animatronic TRex and such on JP is and yet it is held back to #4 spot because of these old schoolers false ratings, designed to keep the 30 year old much shallower coded games at the top 3 positions!
TMNT should remain the number one position imo, if old schoolers were really honest with themselves. It’s a game that has it all codewise, layout, lighting, sounds/music, with amazing art! Team Stern went all out on this one.

Put a MM, AFM, or MB in your collection for a while and then maybe you could decide? If you like the fancy lights and music, make it a remake LE. Those 3 games 100% deserve to have the spots they hold in the Pinside top 100. Although I love Sterns and JJPs, not one of them has kept me pushing the button for over 20 years like MM, AFM and MB. They are classics for a reason.

Hopefully we will start getting Turtles games in OZ soon! Cowabunger dude!

10
#1896 3 years ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

This is exactly what the owners or fanboys of MB, MM, and AFM do to keep these 30 year old relics of the past on top. They are good games no denying, but they had their day in the spotlight many many years ago and now it’s time for the modern games to shine. I’d hate to think in 30 years time the industry hasn’t been able to improve, as these people seem to think. Unfortunately these type people jealously guard their nostalgia feelings for these 3 games in particular so much, when a real top 5 game comes out, they make sure it is pounded down by false score ratings to keep their sacred cows on top. It is why the top 100 is a joke, imo.
For glaring example: Look at how new and innovative the layout, animatronic TRex and such on JP is and yet it is held back to #4 spot because of these old schoolers false ratings, designed to keep the 30 year old much shallower coded games at the top 3 positions!
TMNT should remain the number one position imo, if old schoolers were really honest with themselves. It’s a game that has it all codewise, layout, lighting, sounds/music, with amazing art! Team Stern went all out on this one.

You do realise you have used these same tactics in your ratings as well. I notice how you have scored each of these 3 games plus JJP POTC. Although pirates left my collection, it is still worth more than 3 out of 10.

New games are rated too highly by the owners. And then non owners get the shits and rate them down to provide equilibrium. If you want this practice to stop then remove the 10 for turtles that you don’t own and have not even played yet and get rid of the low pirates rating. Because there are pirates owners who are upset by your low rating! (Or probably not)

Sorry don’t mean this as an attack. Just notice that you have posted this same thing multiple times. It ain’t going to happen. People love those three games. Just like you love Munsters. We own mostly modern pins and my wife’s fave is AFM. As for simple, I will never get to RTU. Do I want it as my only pin? No. But a lot of people love them and you can’t tell people what to like.

Be happy dude! It’s all good! The more people covet these older pins is good for you and me, I’m picking up older stern pros like TWD for affordable prices because it’s not one of these top 3. Heaps of choices. Enjoy!

#1897 3 years ago

Anyone having any issues with their node boards after installing the new code update?

#1898 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

You do realise you have used these same tactics in your ratings as well. I notice how you have scored each of these 3 games plus JJP POTC. Although pirates left my collection, it is still worth more than 3 out of 10.
New games are rated too highly by the owners. And then non owners get the shits and rate them down to provide equilibrium. If you want this practice to stop then remove the 10 for turtles that you don’t own and have not even played yet and get rid of the low pirates rating. Because there are pirates owners who are upset by your low rating! (Or probably not)
Sorry don’t mean this as an attack. Just notice that you have posted this same thing multiple times. It ain’t going to happen. People love those three games. Just like you love Munsters. We own mostly modern pins and my wife’s fave is AFM. As for simple, I will never get to RTU. Do I want it as my only pin? No. But a lot of people love them and you can’t tell people what to like.
Be happy dude! It’s all good! The more people covet these older pins is good for you and me, I’m picking up older stern pros like TWD for affordable prices because it’s not one of these top 3. Heaps of choices. Enjoy!

You’re probably right I should change my POTC rating, because I like the game. Just rated it there because of all the PF and sub quality issues at the time. Had friends battling those issues. All good and happy!

Of course my friend, I own the game TMNT. I did not rate it 10, but where I think it should be according to how the false Pinside top 100 antics work.

If people are so enamored with AFM, then why do these same people blast ST that is basically an updated AFM, with much deeper code, by the same designer???

#1899 3 years ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

You’re probably right I should change my POTC rating, because I like the game. Just rated it there because of all the PF and sub quality issues at the time. Had friends battling those issues. All good and happy!

Man I was one of those people. If our Australian distro hadn't supported me I would have been up shit creek. It was the most temperamental pin. I loved it at the time but overplayed it. 3 or 4 times a day. But it certainly is packed!

Anyway enuff about other pins. I think and hope Turtles will be awesome, really looking forward to it. Still 1-2 weeks away! And I think it will be up there in the top 20. Problem is so many good pins and only 20 slots. If only 50 pins could be in the top 20.

A bit of a pain that this one needs some tweaking to stop problems from happening but this is where pinside shines. I would have a chipped deadpool, a TWD that drains all the time and no idea how to correct issues with the pirates I had without the help of pinside (oh wait TWD still drains all the time )

#1900 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Man I was one of those people. If our Australian distro hadn't supported me I would have been up shit creek. It was the most temperamental pin. I loved it at the time but overplayed it. 3 or 4 times a day. But it certainly is packed!
Anyway enuff about other pins. I think and hope Turtles will be awesome, really looking forward to it. Still 1-2 weeks away! And I think it will be up there in the top 20. Problem is so many good pins and only 20 slots. If only 50 pins could be in the top 20.
A bit of a pain that this one needs some tweaking to stop problems from happening but this is where pinside shines. I would have a chipped deadpool, a TWD that drains all the time and no idea how to correct issues with the pirates I had without the help of pinside (oh wait TWD still drains all the time )

Okay, maybe I misunderstood your earlier post, so all good.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 9.00
Cabinet - Other
Mooshue's Market
Other
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
Other
$ 39.00
$ 259.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toppers
7,450
Machine - For Sale
West Chicago, IL
From: $ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 300.00
From: $ 35.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
$ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
Other
From: $ 11.00
$ 19.95
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
Other
From: $ 1.25
Hardware
Pinball Haven
Hardware
$ 30.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Slipstream Mod Shop
Toys/Add-ons
$ 6.00
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
Other
$ 49.99
From: $ 35.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
arcade-cabinets.com
Armor and blades
$ 20.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Slipstream Mod Shop
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 70.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
arcade-cabinets.com
Armor and blades
$ 22.00
Playfield - Other
System-J
Other
6,200 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Terre Haute, IN
$ 75.00
Lighting - Backbox
arcade-cabinets.com
Backbox
$ 63.99
Cabinet - Other
Cento Creations
Other
$ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Side Gig Studios
Other
From: $ 5.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PR Mods
Sound/Speakers
$ 50.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
FlipMods
Shooter rods
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 75.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PinWorlds
Toys/Add-ons
7,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Bethlehem, PA
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
There are 11,972 posts in this topic. You are on page 38 of 240.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/teenage-mutant-ninja-turtles-club2020-cowabunga-its-pizza-time/page/38 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.