(Topic ID: 271489)

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Club(Stern 2020): Cowabunga! It’s Pizza Time!

By Tuxedomask23

3 years ago


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“Which model are you going to purchase”

  • Pro 288 votes
    50%
  • Premium 170 votes
    29%
  • LE 120 votes
    21%

(578 votes)

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17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 12,276 posts in this topic. You are on page 219 of 246.
#10901 1 year ago

Not sure about earlier code but the post comes up to stop the ball unless you choose Donatello? I believe his skill shot is the center ramp so it plunges to the third flipper. You can also hold the left flipper button but I don’t see the point.

#10902 1 year ago
Quoted from Tommy_Pins:

Not sure about earlier code but the post comes up to stop the ball unless you choose Donatello? I believe his skill shot is the center ramp so it plunges to the third flipper. You can also hold the left flipper button but I don’t see the point.

Its up no matter who you choose. You have to hold the left flipper to plunge to the 3rd flipper.

#10903 1 year ago

That makes sense, not sure why I thought that

1 week later
#10904 1 year ago

I'm real excited about this shooter rod I just made for TMNT! Check it out.

https://flipmods.com/product/tmnt-shooter-rod/
and
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1378-flipmods/08717-tmnt-half-shell-shooter-rod

TMNT-Pinball-Half-Shell-Shooter-Rod.jpgTMNT-Pinball-Half-Shell-Shooter-Rod.jpgTMNT-Pinball-Shooter-Rod.jpgTMNT-Pinball-Shooter-Rod.jpgteenage-mutant-ninja-turtles-shooter-rod.jpgteenage-mutant-ninja-turtles-shooter-rod.jpgstern-pinball-TMNT-shooter-rod.jpgstern-pinball-TMNT-shooter-rod.jpg

#10905 1 year ago

I recently upgraded my TMNT pro for a premium. I really like the glider "build value/capture value" feature,. where you can turn the glider to the left to build a bonus with left shots then capture it by turning the glider to the right and shooting the right ramp. However it only seems to be active at certain times. Does anyone know what "unlocks" that mode?

I checked the Stern rulesheet and the tiltforums rulesheets but neither seem to define when the glider feature becomes active.

-brian

#10907 1 year ago
Quoted from mikespins:

I'm real excited about this shooter rod I just made for TMNT! Check it out.
https://flipmods.com/product/tmnt-shooter-rod/
and
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1378-flipmods/08717-tmnt-half-shell-shooter-rod
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'd take that over the stern version. Well done.

#10908 1 year ago
Quoted from brzezicki:

I recently upgraded my TMNT pro for a premium. I really like the glider "build value/capture value" feature,. where you can turn the glider to the left to build a bonus with left shots then capture it by turning the glider to the right and shooting the right ramp. However it only seems to be active at certain times. Does anyone know what "unlocks" that mode?
I checked the Stern rulesheet and the tiltforums rulesheets but neither seem to define when the glider feature becomes active.
-brian

to answer my own question and in case anyone else was wondering. after playing it a bit it seems to me that the glider movement and "build value/collect" is available after the first shot up the left ramp. I does not seem to start after the right ramp, but is seems it starts immediately after the left ramp is hit and only then.

#10909 1 year ago

Since I upgraded to a new TMNT premium and need armor now (my old pro had the lollipop rails powder coated from the first owner)
I've started making a couple designs.

would love thought and feedback.

here's one I already had (Shredder)
and one I started making (krang)

I was thinking doing shredder on one side and krang on the other, but I think the "styles" are too different

I think I like the krang more and was thinking of adding yellow to the eyes. I'm not sure though if I should diverge too much from the 2 color "black" and cutout insert style.

anyway if anyone has any thoughts or ideas I'd certainly appreciate some feedback on what you think looks good or maybe even something that might "match" krang on the other side. I was thinking maybe a similar style splinter, but that might be too "complex" to look good. not sure.
krang (resized).JPGkrang (resized).JPGshredder (resized).jpgshredder (resized).jpg

#10910 1 year ago
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:

I'd take that over the stern version. Well done.

Thank you!

#10911 1 year ago

My diverter / glider recently crapped out. The issue is the servo motor so just waiting for the new one to arrive. Are there any good step by step or visuals that are out there to ensure I don't screw up the replacement? I'm a little hazy on what to do with the wires that connect to the servo. I will be taking pictures and documenting along the way. Thanks all

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#10912 1 year ago
Quoted from Domes:

My diverter / glider recently crapped out. The issue is the servo motor so just waiting for the new one to arrive. Are there any good step by step or visuals that are out there to ensure I don't screw up the replacement? I'm a little hazy on what to do with the wires that connect to the servo. I will be taking pictures and documenting along the way. Thanks all[quoted image]

Are you getting the replacement from Stern or are you ordering the suggested replacement from a while back in the thread? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/teenage-mutant-ninja-turtles-club2020-cowabunga-its-pizza-time/page/88#post-5933171

Either way, most of the steps are documented in the post above - don't reverse the polarity on your servo if you're using a Stern replacement.

#10913 1 year ago
Quoted from plasticbugs:

Are you getting the replacement from Stern or are you ordering the suggested replacement from a while back in the thread? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/teenage-mutant-ninja-turtles-club2020-cowabunga-its-pizza-time/page/88#post-5933171
Either way, most of the steps are documented in the post above - don't reverse the polarity on your servo if you're using a Stern replacement.

Thanks for the quick response. I spoke with Stern and ordered the exact part off pinballlife.com. Appreciate the call back.

#10914 1 year ago

So proud of myself I can't explain.........

20230616_215310 (resized).jpg20230616_215310 (resized).jpg
#10915 1 year ago

I just made some "lollipop style" easy install protector like my others, but for TMNT

it features a 3 color Krang they are available on my pinside shop

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1463-arcade-cabinetscom/08441--pinbawlers-flipper-button-wear-protectors-for-tmnt

generic-wear-protector (resized).jpggeneric-wear-protector (resized).jpgkrang-wear-protector (resized).JPGkrang-wear-protector (resized).JPG

generic-wear-protector (resized).jpggeneric-wear-protector (resized).jpgkrang-wear-protector (resized).JPGkrang-wear-protector (resized).JPG
#10916 1 year ago

ugg I put up my playfield to install new armor and forgot to turn off the power. that usually is not a problem but now my glider is dead. I'm guessing the weight of fighting gravity was too much for the servo? oh well lots of good info on replacing them so that should help!
thanks to all that did the work years ago to figure this out.

#10917 1 year ago

I would like to see a link to the servo motor used and any instructions would be great.

#10918 1 year ago

Should my flippers at full strength be able to consistently backhand the left ramp? My machine pretty much won’t. The pitch at 6.5 and has about 600 plays on it

#10919 1 year ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

Should my flippers at full strength be able to consistently backhand the left ramp? My machine pretty much won’t. The pitch at 6.5 and has about 600 plays on it

It’s a tough shot to backhand. But it should be doable. At default power, I can make it fairly consistently though. I have my power -5 to reduce right ramp airballs, so it is more difficult to back hand, but still more than 50% I’d guess.

#10920 1 year ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

Should my flippers at full strength be able to consistently backhand the left ramp? My machine pretty much won’t. The pitch at 6.5 and has about 600 plays on it

Just in case you didn't know,
don't forget to clean and wax the playfield and periodically replace the balls. Just a quick clean with "instant wax" will add a ton of "power/speed" (due to reduced friction) to your shots. it's truly amazing how much a difference it makes. I had mine I think at 1500 games and had no problem getting it up there. but I wipe mine down often and often and do a "quick" wax usually when I do as recommended by Mr. Ron Kruzman. He has an excellent thread somewhere here on taking care of games and his "quick wax" method works amazingly well and doesn't take much more time than just a normal wiped own.

#10921 1 year ago

Ever since I put in Precision Pinball's metal flippers, that shot has been 100% backhandable. You can also put on super bands which have a lot more bounce to them.

#10922 1 year ago

I have no problem backhanding the left ramp with stock flippers.

#10923 1 year ago
Quoted from brzezicki:

Just in case you didn't know,
don't forget to clean and wax the playfield and periodically replace the balls. Just a quick clean with "instant wax" will add a ton of "power/speed" (due to reduced friction) to your shots. it's truly amazing how much a difference it makes. I had mine I think at 1500 games and had no problem getting it up there. but I wipe mine down often and often and do a "quick" wax usually when I do as recommended by Mr. Ron Kruzman. He has an excellent thread somewhere here on taking care of games and his "quick wax" method works amazingly well and doesn't take much more time than just a normal wiped own.

This advice is underestimated! I see people (particularly with this game) complaining that the auto-launch or flippers have gotten weak out of nowhere, so they raise the coil power. Cleaning and waxing the PF should be the first thing you do to help remedy this issue

#10924 1 year ago

Don’t count out magnetized balls either. This will affect the auto plunge and metal ramp shots. The used TMNT i bought was having all sorts of quirky issues like the auto plunge, pizza parlor locks, stuck balls in van. Pretty much all these issues went away when I put in regular non-shiny, non-magnetized balls.

#10925 1 year ago
Quoted from mikespins:

This advice is underestimated! I see people (particularly with this game) complaining that the auto-launch or flippers have gotten weak out of nowhere, so they raise the coil power. Cleaning and waxing the PF should be the first thing you do to help remedy this issue

First thing they should check for I think are broken coil stops. Stern's coil stops have been junk the last few years and typically break long before a flippper rebuild is due.

#10926 1 year ago

Hi, I’m actually considering getting this game since I played a couple games I really liked it after previously disregarding it. Can anyone provide me some feedback as to how hard or easy this can be resold if I end up not liking it and are the reviews appropriate? I hear a lot of people complaining about the animations and the code. Does the cartoon code make it that much better? I’m just trying to figure out the low pinside rating.

#10927 1 year ago
Quoted from acupunk12:

Hi, I’m actually considering getting this game since I played a couple games I really liked it after previously disregarding it. Can anyone provide me some feedback as to how hard or easy this can be resold if I end up not liking it and are the reviews appropriate? I hear a lot of people complaining about the animations and the code. Does the cartoon code make it that much better? I’m just trying to figure out the low pinside rating.

I was worried about the same thing. I cannot speak to resale, except I find that most games go up in value after they are not made anymore and I imagine this game is "done"
For example Game of Thrones a game I hated and initially wan'st really liked and nobody wanted it skyrocketed in value after it wasn't made, and ghostbusters was the same, and Stranger things if I recall.

for me I was worried because of the low ratings/sale prices etc but I had an old game and never played and figured "what the heck" and did a trade for my 15 year old Stern POC, I loved the art and the theme. I also watched a STDM episode where they reviewed it very very positively. I bought it and absolutely love it such that I upgraded my pro to a premium recently.

I think alot of the low ratings is because this game is VICIOUS and FAST. it's a classic "take your quarters" game. it's very different than elwin games like godzilla and AIQ and IDMN. It's FAST like Steve Richie games but with much harder shots like well John Borg game (which makes sense as he made it), but it's way harder in my opinion than other Borg games I've played like Rush or Tron

I find it a great contrast to my Elwin games (which I also love). It reminds me of Robotron in the arcade days. super simple premise HIGH energy, fast and hard... you will sweat. But if you don't like short games... you might not like it, some of the shots are VERY VERY hard to make. But if it is their last run it's probably a good investment if it follows like every other game in the past that goes up after it's no longer available NIB.

edit: I never tried the cartoon code, but I actually like the "stock" code. I don't have a problem with the animations etc. I think it's cool, but I can see why people might rather have clips from the cartoon or 2d drawings liket he cartoon esp if you were a big TMNT fan as a kid, the 3d'ish animations I dont' have a problem with. I think they are pretty cool

#10928 1 year ago

Just received my action button surround from Lior (Art of Pinball) and as usual, his quality and design are excellent. I think the design captures the 'fun factor' for each turtle by displaying their 'weapons of choice'. You have to admire Lior's sense of style and his abilities to create a great add that befits a great game.

ab (resized).jpgab (resized).jpg
#10929 1 year ago
Quoted from acupunk12:

Hi, I’m actually considering getting this game since I played a couple games I really liked it after previously disregarding it. Can anyone provide me some feedback as to how hard or easy this can be resold if I end up not liking it and are the reviews appropriate? I hear a lot of people complaining about the animations and the code. Does the cartoon code make it that much better? I’m just trying to figure out the low pinside rating.

Toughest modern game, hands down.

#10930 1 year ago
Quoted from acupunk12:

Hi, I’m actually considering getting this game since I played a couple games I really liked it after previously disregarding it. Can anyone provide me some feedback as to how hard or easy this can be resold if I end up not liking it and are the reviews appropriate? I hear a lot of people complaining about the animations and the code. Does the cartoon code make it that much better? I’m just trying to figure out the low pinside rating.

It's probably not an easy sell if you try to unload it right after you buy it. I guess it depends on price. I think it's a very underrated game and could be sought after in the future. If you think you might keep it a while, you can get great deals on HUO premiums right now. But don't buy it if you're counting on it holding its value. There's no guarantee there.

#10931 1 year ago

I thought the upper right corner of the playfield was a bit empty. I printed out a Glider from Cabal (thx!). Also added 2 LEDs, 1 behind the frosted lens. I had to add a resistor to reduce the "headlight" brightness a bit.

IMG_7286-1 (resized).jpegIMG_7286-1 (resized).jpegIMG_7287-1 (resized).jpegIMG_7287-1 (resized).jpeg

#10932 1 year ago
Quoted from jellomandolin:

I would like to see a link to the servo motor used and any instructions would be great.

https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=041-5148-00

This is the servo I used. I was able to get everything out and the new servo back in. Motor still not working 100% so it is probably a wiring or user setup error on my end. Those instructions listed above worked very well.

#10933 1 year ago

I upgraded to the following servo:
Hitec 32645S HS-645MG metal gear ($35):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003T6RSVQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

I also ordered a reverser so I didn't have to mess with opening it and doing it manually ($10 for two):
https://www.amazon.com/Servo-Signal-Reverser-Rotation-Inverter/dp/B095PJ16HQ/ref=sr_1_4

My glider has been performing flawlessly since I did the servo replacement. I also fly RC planes, and I trust Hitech with my expensive planes. They are simply tougher than the off-brands, like the junk Stern decided to put in these. I would NOT fly a several hundred dollar plane on those, so I don't run my pin on them either!

The process was simple. Lift the playfield before disassembling the ramps and glider area. Follow the servo wire and you will see where it plugs into a small shrink-wrapped board. Simply cut away the shrink wrap to the point where you can unplug the servo wire, then unplug it. No need to remove all the wrapping. Remember which way the black or brown wire faces (take a pic or something) - you'll want to match that when plugging the new one back in, or it won't work. Also look for small zip ties and clip them so you can remove everything from the topside. I don't recall if there were any down there, but follow the line and check to save lifting it again when you're doing the topside work.

Then you drop the playfield to work on the topside. Disassemble the lower ramps first, then the glider area (just a couple screw and nuts), clip the couple little zip ties to free the wire for removal, then lift the glider mounting area, unscrew the old servo (again, noting it's direction and the control horn direction to match the new one - take pics!), feed the new wires back in the same hole, screw everything back together on the top side, then lift the playfield and plug in the new wires. Note: I did have to drill out the Hitech control horn to get the metal wire arm to fit through the closest approximate hole to the original. Super short summary, just try to do everything as close to original as possible with the new servo.

After all that, reverse the disassembly process and put it all back together. One note to make your life easier - put the metal wire coming from the glider through the control arm on the servo before mounting the servo. You won't get it in there otherwise.

Some of the screws are pretty small and are easily dropped, so I put a white towel down with a magnetic dish to set them all in and keep everything accounted for, and the towel helps to see the ones that you inevitably drop and keep them from falling through the playfield. You'll be flipping that metal glider assembly to get the servo out, so it'll also protect your playfield as you work.

Oh, while those ramps are out of the way, it opens the area for some cleaning and waxing that's usually a pain on this game.

Once done, you will go into the menu and re-calibrate the glider (only the center position, as the sides are relative to that and cannot be individually adjusted, but you can test to see how far it'll go at the extremes in the menu). It's all under Diag > Game > Gldr. You may have to play with it to get it right, but this should NOT require and physical disassembly - it's just software at this point. My center is around 195, fwiw. The goal: glider should be centered at center, and you have a little wiggle room to keep the side margins from overly slamming the side walls.

It's really very self-explanatory once you get started, I promise! $35-45 and 15-20 minutes and I was done and playing with a functional glider that should last a long time before needing another rebuild.

Cowabunga, dudes!

#10934 1 year ago
Quoted from marineman:

I upgraded to the following servo:
Hitec 32645S HS-645MG metal gear ($35):
amazon.com link »
I also ordered a reverser so I didn't have to mess with opening it and doing it manually ($10 for two):
amazon.com link »
My glider has been performing flawlessly since I did the servo replacement. I also fly RC planes, and I trust Hitech with my expensive planes. They are simply tougher than the off-brands, like the junk Stern decided to put in these. I would NOT fly a several hundred dollar plane on those, so I don't run my pin on them either!
The process was simple. Lift the playfield before disassembling the ramps and glider area. Follow the servo wire and you will see where it plugs into a small shrink-wrapped board. Simply cut away the shrink wrap to the point where you can unplug the servo wire, then unplug it. No need to remove all the wrapping. Remember which way the black or brown wire faces (take a pic or something) - you'll want to match that when plugging the new one back in, or it won't work. Also look for small zip ties and clip them so you can remove everything from the topside. I don't recall if there were any down there, but follow the line and check to save lifting it again when you're doing the topside work.
Then you drop the playfield to work on the topside. Disassemble the lower ramps first, then the glider area (just a couple screw and nuts), clip the couple little zip ties to free the wire for removal, then lift the glider mounting area, unscrew the old servo (again, noting it's direction and the control horn direction to match the new one - take pics!), feed the new wires back in the same hole, screw everything back together on the top side, then lift the playfield and plug in the new wires. Note: I did have to drill out the Hitech control horn to get the metal wire arm to fit through the closest approximate hole to the original. Super short summary, just try to do everything as close to original as possible with the new servo.
After all that, reverse the disassembly process and put it all back together. One note to make your life easier - put the metal wire coming from the glider through the control arm on the servo before mounting the servo. You won't get it in there otherwise.
Some of the screws are pretty small and are easily dropped, so I put a white towel down with a magnetic dish to set them all in and keep everything accounted for, and the towel helps to see the ones that you inevitably drop and keep them from falling through the playfield. You'll be flipping that metal glider assembly to get the servo out, so it'll also protect your playfield as you work.
Oh, while those ramps are out of the way, it opens the area for some cleaning and waxing that's usually a pain on this game.
Once done, you will go into the menu and re-calibrate the glider (only the center position, as the sides are relative to that and cannot be individually adjusted, but you can test to see how far it'll go at the extremes in the menu). It's all under Diag > Game > Gldr. You may have to play with it to get it right, but this should NOT require and physical disassembly - it's just software at this point. My center is around 195, fwiw. The goal: glider should be centered at center, and you have a little wiggle room to keep the side margins from overly slamming the side walls.
It's really very self-explanatory once you get started, I promise! $35-45 and 15-20 minutes and I was done and playing with a functional glider that should last a long time before needing another rebuild.
Cowabunga, dudes!

Awesome write up!
Question if you don’t mind: I need to re-mount my Donatello figure; he came off. Do you think I need to dissemble the whole assembly like you mentioned above. Or should I be able to take off his mounting bracket without messing with the servos?

I haven’t dug too deep into it yet; but was planning to in the next few weeks. Appreciate any info.

#10935 1 year ago
Quoted from marineman:

I upgraded to the following servo:
Hitec 32645S HS-645MG metal gear ($35):
amazon.com link »
I also ordered a reverser so I didn't have to mess with opening it and doing it manually ($10 for two):
amazon.com link »
My glider has been performing flawlessly since I did the servo replacement. I also fly RC planes, and I trust Hitech with my expensive planes. They are simply tougher than the off-brands, like the junk Stern decided to put in these. I would NOT fly a several hundred dollar plane on those, so I don't run my pin on them either!
The process was simple. Lift the playfield before disassembling the ramps and glider area. Follow the servo wire and you will see where it plugs into a small shrink-wrapped board. Simply cut away the shrink wrap to the point where you can unplug the servo wire, then unplug it. No need to remove all the wrapping. Remember which way the black or brown wire faces (take a pic or something) - you'll want to match that when plugging the new one back in, or it won't work. Also look for small zip ties and clip them so you can remove everything from the topside. I don't recall if there were any down there, but follow the line and check to save lifting it again when you're doing the topside work.
Then you drop the playfield to work on the topside. Disassemble the lower ramps first, then the glider area (just a couple screw and nuts), clip the couple little zip ties to free the wire for removal, then lift the glider mounting area, unscrew the old servo (again, noting it's direction and the control horn direction to match the new one - take pics!), feed the new wires back in the same hole, screw everything back together on the top side, then lift the playfield and plug in the new wires. Note: I did have to drill out the Hitech control horn to get the metal wire arm to fit through the closest approximate hole to the original. Super short summary, just try to do everything as close to original as possible with the new servo.
After all that, reverse the disassembly process and put it all back together. One note to make your life easier - put the metal wire coming from the glider through the control arm on the servo before mounting the servo. You won't get it in there otherwise.
Some of the screws are pretty small and are easily dropped, so I put a white towel down with a magnetic dish to set them all in and keep everything accounted for, and the towel helps to see the ones that you inevitably drop and keep them from falling through the playfield. You'll be flipping that metal glider assembly to get the servo out, so it'll also protect your playfield as you work.
Oh, while those ramps are out of the way, it opens the area for some cleaning and waxing that's usually a pain on this game.
Once done, you will go into the menu and re-calibrate the glider (only the center position, as the sides are relative to that and cannot be individually adjusted, but you can test to see how far it'll go at the extremes in the menu). It's all under Diag > Game > Gldr. You may have to play with it to get it right, but this should NOT require and physical disassembly - it's just software at this point. My center is around 195, fwiw. The goal: glider should be centered at center, and you have a little wiggle room to keep the side margins from overly slamming the side walls.
It's really very self-explanatory once you get started, I promise! $35-45 and 15-20 minutes and I was done and playing with a functional glider that should last a long time before needing another rebuild.
Cowabunga, dudes!

Amazing write up... follows pretty much what I did to a "T". I'm still messing with the glider a bit as I don't believe it's working every single time. Might be an issue with how I assembled the control horn or possibly with something I disassembled. I'll keep working on it.

#10936 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Awesome write up!
Question if you don’t mind: I need to re-mount my Donatello figure; he came off. Do you think I need to dissemble the whole assembly like you mentioned above. Or should I be able to take off his mounting bracket without messing with the servos?
I haven’t dug too deep into it yet; but was planning to in the next few weeks. Appreciate any info.

I'm guessing here, but I think you'll probably have a hard time getting underneath to do much of anything without removing the whole glider mechanism. Everything with that whole area is pretty darn tight! It's really not too bad, so I would probably do it anyways just to not risk a screwdriver marking up my playfield...

#10937 1 year ago
Quoted from Domes:

Amazing write up... follows pretty much what I did to a "T". I'm still messing with the glider a bit as I don't believe it's working every single time. Might be an issue with how I assembled the control horn or possibly with something I disassembled. I'll keep working on it.

What's it doing? I don't think any of them are 100%. I have mine, and there's a local place that has a premium, too. Both will miss an occasional Ralph skill shot catch, and I think there are times where you can't alter the direction per the code, not a mechanical thing. It's pretty good though, with mine outperforming the routed one by a long shot. I'll also say the Hitech plays smoother than the stock did even before it fried out.

To me, the biggest thing was dialing in the calibration. I found there is a very narrow sweet spot where the center is mostly centered, but the side extremes still line up alright. It's a finicky setup, but I get that they did it so the hits from the ball make the spacer underneath hit the side instead of relying on the servo gears to take the frequent blunt force hits. Mine is just slightly right of true center, but not to where it interferes with the balls rolling down the channel. If it's overall moving too far or not far enough on the side swings, you may need a different hole on the servo control arm.

#10938 1 year ago
Quoted from marineman:

What's it doing? I don't think any of them are 100%. I have mine, and there's a local place that has a premium, too. Both will miss an occasional Ralph skill shot catch, and I think there are times where you can't alter the direction per the code, not a mechanical thing. It's pretty good though, with mine outperforming the routed one by a long shot. I'll also say the Hitech plays smoother than the stock did even before it fried out.
To me, the biggest thing was dialing in the calibration. I found there is a very narrow sweet spot where the center is mostly centered, but the side extremes still line up alright. It's a finicky setup, but I get that they did it so the hits from the ball make the spacer underneath hit the side instead of relying on the servo gears to take the frequent blunt force hits. Mine is just slightly right of true center, but not to where it interferes with the balls rolling down the channel. If it's overall moving too far or not far enough on the side swings, you may need a different hole on the servo control arm.

I could be a big dummy, but I cannot get the glider test to work or calibrate. Glider won't move in test. During gameplay I can only get the glider to move occasionally. Doesn't appear to be moving yet on command with the button. Appears to be intermittent. Not sure if that makes sense. Appreciate the guidance.

#10939 1 year ago
Quoted from Domes:

I could be a big dummy, but I cannot get the glider test to work or calibrate. Glider won't move in test. During gameplay I can only get the glider to move occasionally. Doesn't appear to be moving yet on command with the button. Appears to be intermittent. Not sure if that makes sense. Appreciate the guidance.

I assume you are pushing in the high voltage button that opens due to the coin door being open (like when doing coil, etc tests)? If you aren't pushing and holding it in through the test/calibration process, it won't move due to the voltage safety measures it provides.

#10940 1 year ago
Quoted from marineman:

I assume you are pushing in the high voltage button that opens due to the coin door being open (like when doing coil, etc tests)? If you aren't pushing and holding it in through the test/calibration process, it won't move due to the voltage safety measures it provides.

yep, you got it. Big Dummy over here. Thanks. It looks like it's off in terms of it's angle. Almost as if the glider is normally at 12 o'clock for center, but it believes 9 o'clock is center. For example, Glider won't turn right... will turn left... then it looks like it's trying to turn left a few more clicks but is bumping up against the rails. Not sure if that makes sense. Not sure if my calibration is all off or I set up the servo incorrectly.

EDIT: Looks like my center is around 225. With 230 being the max it can go, my thought is that something is off altogether with how I set it up. Not sure if that helps.

#10941 1 year ago

I have a new pin on order and need to sell one. I will be selling Godzilla and keeping Turtles.

#10942 1 year ago
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:

I have a new pin on order and need to sell one. I will be selling Godzilla and keeping Turtles.

Great move! We play turtles way more than Godzilla.

#10943 12 months ago
Quoted from Domes:

yep, you got it. Big Dummy over here. Thanks. It looks like it's off in terms of it's angle. Almost as if the glider is normally at 12 o'clock for center, but it believes 9 o'clock is center. For example, Glider won't turn right... will turn left... then it looks like it's trying to turn left a few more clicks but is bumping up against the rails. Not sure if that makes sense. Not sure if my calibration is all off or I set up the servo incorrectly.
EDIT: Looks like my center is around 225. With 230 being the max it can go, my thought is that something is off altogether with how I set it up. Not sure if that helps.

That almost sounds as though something with the orientation with the servo or control horn is off. Or, perhaps the servo is stripped out going one direction and not the other? You may want to disassemble again, then run the test with the servo out to make sure it is moving in both direction. If it is, it's likely something with orientation is off. If it isn't, it's cooked and I order up a Hitech instead of the Stern junk.

#10944 12 months ago
Quoted from marineman:

That almost sounds as though something with the orientation with the servo or control horn is off. Or, perhaps the servo is stripped out going one direction and not the other? You may want to disassemble again, then run the test with the servo out to make sure it is moving in both direction. If it is, it's likely something with orientation is off. If it isn't, it's cooked and I order up a Hitech instead of the Stern junk.

I took it apart again. Attempted to do the tests with the glass off and the pieces moving freely. If it is a stern junk motor then I cannot tell. It appears to be moving in both directions and after I put it back together it did work again. Is there a way to play without the glider on a premium? I am not sure if I can simply unplug it and just have it be decoration or there were be an overcurrent alert or warning tripped by the computer.

#10945 12 months ago
Quoted from acupunk12:

Hi, I’m actually considering getting this game since I played a couple games I really liked it after previously disregarding it. Can anyone provide me some feedback as to how hard or easy this can be resold if I end up not liking it and are the reviews appropriate? I hear a lot of people complaining about the animations and the code. Does the cartoon code make it that much better? I’m just trying to figure out the low pinside rating.

I had my eye out for a used pro for a while. I kept seeing them listed in the $6,300 range for used. I decided to buy brand new with shipping included for $6,999. Its such a fun game.

I know a lot of people say its hard, maybe that true in the later modes of the game but it just easy enough for the average player to have a fun time while playing. It's got the perfect balance, IMO.

Buy it and you'll enjoy it, IF you ever do decide to sell I'd be you'd have no problem finding a buyer. My game was from the Nov 2022 build, I doubt it'll get run again (rumor was that re run was canceled, but obviously wasn't) once distro stock on NIB runs out people that wish they got one will be looking for one.

#10946 12 months ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

I had my eye out for a used pro for a while. I kept seeing them listed in the $6,300 range for used. I decided to buy brand new with shipping included for $6,999. Its such a fun game.
I know a lot of people say its hard, maybe that true in the later modes of the game but it just easy enough for the average player to have a fun time while playing. It's got the perfect balance, IMO.
Buy it and you'll enjoy it, IF you ever do decide to sell I'd be you'd have no problem finding a buyer. My game was from the Nov 2022 build, I doubt it'll get run again (rumor was that re run was canceled, but obviously wasn't) once distro stock on NIB runs out people that wish they got one will be looking for one.

100% agreed with this. a great game, so fast and hard, and you'll always have a challenge. I agree I think once it's not made it's going to be a "I want that game" thing and if theres not a lot made... well we all know how supply and demand works. I'm half tempted to pick up another of these and rush just because I"ve already seen this pattern so many times. (people dis it, resell low when it's produced, once its stopped production, it skyrockets)

either way it's a fun game for those who appreciate it that's all the matters.

#10947 12 months ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

I had my eye out for a used pro for a while. I kept seeing them listed in the $6,300 range for used. I decided to buy brand new with shipping included for $6,999. Its such a fun game.
I know a lot of people say its hard, maybe that true in the later modes of the game but it just easy enough for the average player to have a fun time while playing. It's got the perfect balance, IMO.
Buy it and you'll enjoy it, IF you ever do decide to sell I'd be you'd have no problem finding a buyer. My game was from the Nov 2022 build, I doubt it'll get run again (rumor was that re run was canceled, but obviously wasn't) once distro stock on NIB runs out people that wish they got one will be looking for one.

Thanks everybody. I played it more today and I really enjoyed it. I’m a terrible player but I didn’t find it anymore difficult than any other modern game really. It was definitely easier than TWD. If venom looks great I might get that but this one is high on my wishlist too (:

#10948 12 months ago
Quoted from acupunk12:

Thanks everybody. I played it more today and I really enjoyed it. I’m a terrible player but I didn’t find it anymore difficult than any other modern game really. It was definitely easier than TWD. If venom looks great I might get that but this one is high on my wishlist too (:

you might have had "beginners luck" I know whenever I got TMNT my first few days of playing I was killing it (well for that game) but easily having 5-10 minute games.. now I barely last 2-3 minutes

same with godzilla when I got that I was having games 200,000,000+ minimum every game now I've had it 6 months and I am lucky if I clear 60,000,000.

Am I the only one that seems to get worse the more they play games? good luck with whatever you decide.
do you know is it for sure venom for the next game and has it been revealed who is designing it?

#10949 12 months ago

TMNT rules are easy to figure out. Best I/C use I think with being able to level up your Turtle. It's the speed and geometry of the game that makes it expert mode. lol. Those Turtles ought to have hockey gear on. lol.

#10950 12 months ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

I had my eye out for a used pro for a while. I kept seeing them listed in the $6,300 range for used. I decided to buy brand new with shipping included for $6,999. Its such a fun game.
I know a lot of people say its hard, maybe that true in the later modes of the game but it just easy enough for the average player to have a fun time while playing. It's got the perfect balance, IMO.
Buy it and you'll enjoy it, IF you ever do decide to sell I'd be you'd have no problem finding a buyer. My game was from the Nov 2022 build, I doubt it'll get run again (rumor was that re run was canceled, but obviously wasn't) once distro stock on NIB runs out people that wish they got one will be looking for one.

TMNT is retired now. It should hold value pretty well now.

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