If I’m not mistaken, the timer at the end shows your remaining time left, not the time you completed it in.

I'm pretty much thinking all the custom graphics and audio packages might be toast with this.

I suspect that they will use the wi-fi connection as a possible deterrent for home brew mods. I know the threat is out there that they could brick a game.

Well, without physically destroying hardware, I don't think they can brick anything more than the SD card, I could be wrong though.

I’d assume it wouldn’t make you unable to use the modded code, just not with the insider connected features also. I can understand why tho, it’s an achievement system and high score tracker and modded software which changed the game would obviously ruin those experiences. I know the 1987 code and other modded software doesn’t change the game rules or scoring at all but it makes sense to me that they wouldn’t allow mods to run with the service. Most video games with leaderboards or competitive aspect don’t allow mods of any kind either. But I agree either way it’s a bit unfortunate.

New to me TMNT…

What’s the deal with the white Michelangelo light up the center? It seems to be always flashing regardless of hits?

Seems to do that for any turtle i select.

Pretty sure that shot flashes white when the ball lock is ready for ninja pizza multiball. The locks are ready at the start of the game and stay on until you play the multiball.

Ok think we’re onto something here, but then whats the deal with the ninja pizza parlor light that also flashes at the same time!?

Pretty sure that’s signifying the same thing. It’s pretty common for pinball machines you have various purposes for a light. It used the ninja pizza parlor light along with the Michelangelo one to show locks are lit.

Got in some new flasher domes. Was surprised how easy the tabs come off with just flush cutters. Definitely easier on the eyes.
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This didn’t help me through team up where my game almost always falls apart lol

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Noticed I’m running code 1.23, and there’s 1.4 something available. Am i safe to update? Any big issues with the latest code?

Haven’t had issues with the latest code on my pro. It even includes some extras like half shell challenge

I just got my Pro a couple weeks ago so pardon the five month delay By now you may have moved onto the next pin, but seeing as I'm only five miles away from you I thought I'd respond.

I actually was trying to stay away(!) from the pop bumpers until I read your post and remembered the pretty sweet rewards on the match. Now I generally plunge into them. I've never seen more than one extra ball from there, but I'm also not getting THAT many matches to really confirm. As for getting into the bumpers, the right orbit will feed to them unless there's a benefit to completing the orbit and accessing the top flipper - which is pretty often in this game.

For sure. I have Delt31’s code which is 1.40. No way I’m letting that go. It adds more to the game than an achievement system can.

Wait a second were they taunting us with a Godzilla poster of Ghidorah in the Turtle's Lair this whole time?

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Yes, I posted about this in the Godzilla speculation thread the day I got my NIB TMNT haha

I think I need a mentoring from you for this l'air shot!

If you haven't already figured it out, that digital level has to be perfectly straight up/down with the playfield. If it's rotated even a smidge it'll throw off the reading. I always use a paint stirrer resting above the flippers (laying on the playfield) to find a "level" place to set it. I'm also at 6.5, but I've tried up to 7 degrees and it's always been a tough machine for the top flipper shots for me.

I have had mine around 6.7 since I got it and always struggled with the center shots. I dropped it to 6.5 after moving it to another room and I can hit them much more consistently but I'm getting a lot more side drains now.

I'm a dip. How do I do this on my machine? Poked the interwebs, but didn't find the right information.

Use your settings button on the coin door. just start poking around, you can check audits, made adjustments, etc. Just find flipper power and knock it down a bit.

IE: it may be at 250 - lower it to like 225 and try games

The rubbers are factory. It's perfectly level. I haven't waxed it, and I'm thinking that's the difference. As I've played this lightning fast pin I've not once thought "You know what I should do? Wax it and make it even faster..." but I know it'll settle down after a hundred plays. Maybe that'll be the next step.

Hi all,

I am really getting into this game. Last night I was one ramp shot away from getting to the Final Battle and i had most of the progress requirements for Cowabunga mode (i think i had all of them less one or 2 more April Hurry Ups).

I have yet to be able to do well for Team Up Multiball. I know if you complete Night of the Mousers then you get the TUMP perk of return lanes spotting a shot.

Can someone please give me some more information on this. Do all 3 return lanes spot a shot automatically or is it just the leftmost left return lane and the right return lame when weapon is lit, etc?

I love figuring out all this little details in this game, and I've to be able to confirm this sure.

Thanks!

This same thing just happened to me. I read through various suggestions of where to order, but it looks like there are various sizes of replacement rubbers. This is my first pin and first busted rubber, so I'll ask a very noobish question: is there a list so you know which size to get for which part? Do I just measure it with a ruler? Are you better off ordering a full "set"? (Do they even do that?)

If it's a sling, do you replace both slings at the same time so they are consistent?

Anything else I should keep in mind?

My glider is quite loose at the very top, but I don't have any screw driver than can get at the screws directly underneath, or even close. Is there a recommended tool for this one? Perhaps there is a set of pinball tools y'all order that you use across lots of machines?

Any advice would be appreciated.

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https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52

Grab some low bounce standard flipper rings.

I purchased an ultra low profile screw driver set and now its an easy fix on tightening the glider. https://www.amazon.com/Anex-6102T-Profile-Driver-Handle/dp/B0016VAIBI/ref=sr_1_6

The manual has a list of all the rubber and their sizes. See page 37 in this PDF.

I think there was one discrepancy with one of the post rubbers and what size it should be. I'm not recalling exactly which. But if you order a full set, plus one extra for each spot, you should be good to go. Titan Pinball has a database of user-created rubber kits which are fairly trustworthy. You should cross-check the kit with the info in the manual to make sure you're getting all the necessary rubber.

This is the kit I'm using. The colors match the location so the rubbers don't stand out.

If you've played 1000 games, I'd say you might as well do a full rubber replacement. I'm guessing it's not just the sling rubber that is worn. It will require removing a surprising number of things (habitrails, glider) to get to them, but if you take your time and take pictures at each step and of each item removed in order, you should not have any issues replacing the things you removed to get the rubbers on.

Be careful, work slowly and do not try to stretch rubbers around things like plastics. Most plastics must be removed to gain access. Some can be gently lifted/bent a bit after being unscrewed to slide a rubber underneath and onto a post (like the APRIL "6" plastic, once the habitrail and the easy to access screws have been removed).

Hi,

I bought a used TMNT Pro. All seems OK. However I do have one issue.

Shooting up the left orbit ALWAYS fails. It gets halfway and rattles and comes back down.

It seems to be catching on the metal guards near the van ball lock exit.

Is this a known issue?

Guy who sold it said it played fine and never mentioned the issue...

There's a gate there. Hold the left flipper (when you plunge) and it will go around orbit. If not, it hits, it falls into lanes and pops

No, sorry think you misunderstood. This is happening during play after plunge.

Ball is resting on right flipper and I shoot for left orbit and it never makes the orbit and bashes and rattles half way up.

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That's normal. There is a post up there. I use it all the time to set up from the right flipper, up the left orbit to feed down to the upper flipper for a center ramp shot.

Wow. This, right here, makes all the difference in the game. Thank you @northerndude!

This happens to me quite often as well. Can be frustrating when I nailed the shot but it rattles and falls back.

In the manual for your game there is a page with a full diagram of what size rubbers are located around the playfield. I would suggest ordering replacements from Titan. I got their glow in the dark kit recently for my TMNT and have been slowly replacing a few rubbers here and there as I get brave enough to take things apart. (This is also my first pin)

These are going to change my life.

I'm curious for those of you having more luck getting close to final battle what settings you've changed on your prem/LE? I've tried this game everywhere from 6.5 to 6.8 and left to right center and my GC score is still only about 40 Million and I think I have started team up multiball maybe once on a single player game. The only adjustments I've made are enable ball save on lair shot which made a big difference. I've read about adjust sling and flipper power but before I start going down that route I'm trying to determine if my skill is just lacking or if my game just isn't dialed in.

TMNT Premium was my first pin and I since had (and sold) a Mando premium and have Godzilla LE on the way. Mando was much kinder to me with average scores over 500 million after a few weeks of play and I do well at our local tournaments so I hope the answer is that I'm not just terrible. I keep questioning if I'm watering down the intended difficulty when I start dialing down flipper power or slings as I want to play the game the way it was intended.

So it's a design flaw?

Sure saves a ton of time tearing everything down, just to tighten a loose screw.

Ok. I think the original stern topper is very Nice . But about 4 Times overpriced. So i AM pleased with my homemade 50 bucks topper

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Love setting up the upper ramp with the left orbit,I guess some don’t realize it can stop the ball allowing it to fall back down for a shot to the ramp,very fun,

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A way to think of it is "Is there a benefit at this moment for the post to be active?" If so (like when there's a center ramp shot lit), it'll be active. If not, it'll be down letting the ball go all the way around.

Another thing to add is holding the left flipper will keep the orbit post down on ANY launch, not just the initial one. On my Metallica for example it's a "once per ball" option. On TMNT it's possible on every launch.

If the side ramp shot or inner loop shot is lit, this allows you to feed the upper flipper with a left orbit shot. Similar to how Twilight Zone works with the magnets.

So this is a known issue? Glad it's not just my game

This was an amazingly helpful post, thank you. One question: the manual shows needing a 2" rubber for the slings (id number five), but none of the kits you linked to have ones that size. They do have 2.25", but it seems strange there would be that disconnect. Am I reading something wrong?

You're definitely not wrong there. The manual does say 2 inches. I do have the 2 1/4 inch sling rubbers from Titan and they are already a tight fit - not easy at all to stretch onto the posts and certainly not floppy. I think if you got 2" it would be a fair bit tighter. If I bought them again, I'd do 2 1/4 again since I'd rather they not be so tight that I'll have to muscle them onto the posts even more than I had done.

Xaqery would love to be able to reproduce this bug. If you can help that would be great!

The top post can feed the upper left flipper when you shoot the left orbit. By design, its supposed to come up and feed the upperleft flipper anytime you have the loop or center ramp lit.

Sorry for the confusion.