(Topic ID: 234238)

Technique for removing Trifurcon pins from connector?


By robertmee

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Mbecker
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    One image has been uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    trifurcon-release (resized).jpg

    #1 4 months ago

    Want to replace some GI connectors that were repinned recently but with the wrong size connector (15 pin instead of 12 pin). Since they're newish, no reason to cut them off and re-pin, considering they've already been cut once and the wire bundle is short as it is. What's the easiest way to remove the pins? I could just break the connector with some lineman's pliars, but figure, there's got to be a secret way to pull the pins out. The various youtube video's are for different style automotive pins mostly.

    #2 4 months ago

    I push the silver tab on the side of the back of the connector with a metal pick until I feel it give. Make sure to push on the end closest to the wire. Then pull out the wire with the connector

    #3 4 months ago
    Quoted from Cheddar:

    I push the silver tab on the side of the back of the connector with a metal pick until I feel it give. Make sure to push on the end closest to the wire. Then pull out the wire with the connector

    So, if I understand correctly, looking at one side of the connector, I see silver area for each pin location. I tried pressing with a small screwdriver on the end closest to where the pin would come out of the connector (away from the end with the pin holes). Didn't seem to want to budge. Maybe not pressing hard enough, but didn't feel like putting the screwdriver through my hand holding the connector.

    #4 4 months ago
    Quoted from robertmee:

    So, if I understand correctly, looking at one side of the connector, I see silver area for each pin location. I tried pressing with a small screwdriver on the end closest to where the pin would come out of the connector (away from the end with the pin holes). Didn't seem to want to budge. Maybe not pressing hard enough, but didn't feel like putting the screwdriver through my hand holding the connector.

    It shouldn't take all that much pressure. You want to (EDIT: First push the wire you want to release INWARD to loosen the burr that holds it in place then...) press in with a tiny screwdriver on any of the points the green arrows are pointing to, as you at the same time pull gently and continuously on the corresponding wires pointed out with the red arrows.

    Lay it flat on a table and it should be easier to press on it while pulling.

    trifurcon-release (resized).jpg

    #5 4 months ago

    You have to push hard. Also push the wire further into the housing so the tab is not hung up on the housing.
    Take a look at and uncrimped connector to see what you are dealing with

    #6 4 months ago

    You have to push in and pull out at the same time.

    #7 4 months ago

    Mr VIreland has it mostly covered but also Chedder is correct.

    To put this differently -- push *in* with the wire in the opposite direction of the red arrows in post #4. This will prevent edge of the tang from getting hung up on the housing. Then push the tang in with a screwdriver (green arrows shown in post #4). With the tang pushed in - then pull the wire out in the direction of the red arrows.

    Sometimes if you push the tang in without pushing the wire in first - the tang will snag on the housing and bend so that it buggers the contact when pulling.

    Push in wire, push in tang, pull out wire.

    #8 4 months ago
    Quoted from G-P-E:

    Mr VIreland has it mostly covered but also Chedder is correct.
    To put this differently -- push *in* with the wire in the opposite direction of the red arrows in post #4. This will prevent edge of the tang from getting hung up on the housing. Then push the tang in with a screwdriver (green arrows shown in post #4). With the tang pushed in - then pull the wire out in the direction of the red arrows.
    Sometimes if you push the tang in without pushing the wire in first - the tang will snag on the housing and bend so that it buggers the contact when pulling.
    Push in wire, push in tang, pull out wire.

    Ah, yes. The ol' push push. Yes, recommend this as the perfect fool-proof method. Edited my post to reflect this addition.

    #9 4 months ago

    Thanks everyone!! Starting to get the hang of it....the picture really helped, so thank you for that. The biggest difficulty is working in the back box and not having a flat surface to push on. I'm holding the connector with one hand while trying to push/pull the wire with the same hand and using the other hand to push down on the tang.

    #10 4 months ago

    If the housing is simply too big I would just trim housing with a utility knife with a sharp blade (pressing down into a board not your hand obviously). I wouldn’t even bother removing the existing pins.

    I do this all the time as I don’t really stock a whole lot of sizes in my kit, mostly just long housing blocks that I trim to suite whatever I’m working on.

    Although typically I size them before inserting any connectors into them.

    #11 4 months ago
    Quoted from robertmee:

    Thanks everyone!! Starting to get the hang of it....the picture really helped, so thank you for that. The biggest difficulty is working in the back box and not having a flat surface to push on. I'm holding the connector with one hand while trying to push/pull the wire with the same hand and using the other hand to push down on the tang.

    You can leave it installed to "hold" it for you. It'll be harder to pull out, but sounds easier that what you're doing.

    #12 4 months ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    You can leave it installed to "hold" it for you. It'll be harder to pull out, but sounds easier that what you're doing.

    I have the board out replacing the header pins, 5v regulator, caps, etc. This board was worked over in its past life. Repairing alot of previous hacks.

    #13 4 months ago
    Quoted from merccat:

    If the housing is simply too big I would just trim housing with a utility knife with a sharp blade (pressing down into a board not your hand obviously). I wouldn’t even bother removing the existing pins.
    I do this all the time as I don’t really stock a whole lot of sizes in my kit, mostly just long housing blocks that I trim to suite whatever I’m working on.
    Although typically I size them before inserting any connectors into them.

    I thought about that too, but one of them already has some burnt marks on a couple of pins, and the other one is the non-locking style which sticks out like a sore thumb. I'm fixing so many previous hacks figured I'd take the time and try and so it right once and for all.

    #14 4 months ago

    kind of need three hands.

    if you are working in the game sit the connector on the bottom of the head wood cabinet. Using a tiny flat blade push in the lock tab to release at the same time you are gently tugging on the wire and it should slide out.

    #15 4 months ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    kind of need three hands.
    if you are working in the game sit the connector on the bottom of the head wood cabinet. Using a tiny flat blade push in the lock tab to release at the same time you are gently tugging on the wire and it should slide out.

    Well, in the end it all worked out. I'd say about 75% of them came out. The rest, the wire actually pulled out of the pin, indicating a poor previous crimp anyway, so I re-recrimped them with new pins, and hopefully I didn't transpose any wires putting them back in. Tried to be careful and do 1 at a time. Now, if only EzSBC would ship me my regulator, I can put this game all back together.

    BTW, if anyone ever searches this in the future, I upgraded my crimper to this: amazon.com link »

    It's a little cheaper than the blue handled one that I think VID linked on another thread, but man, it's smooth as butter. Crimped 18 and 22 ga with no issues. Don't know why I'd been using a non ratcheting all these years. I dreaded crimps before, but this tool makes it so much easier.

    #16 4 months ago
    Quoted from robertmee:

    BTW, if anyone ever searches this in the future, I upgraded my crimper to this: amazon.com link »
    It's a little cheaper than the blue handled one that I think VID linked on another thread, but man, it's smooth as butter. Crimped 18 and 22 ga with no issues. Don't know why I'd been using a non ratcheting all these years. I dreaded crimps before, but this tool makes it so much easier.

    That's my go-to crimper. Love that thing

    #17 4 months ago

    That ratcheting crimper great — love it!

    Regarding the pin removal - if you’re dealing with round female or male pins- they make tools to slide into the housing around the pin that pushes the tabs/barbs flush against the pin so then it easily pulls out of the housing. I have several versions — usually it works pretty good. Future FYI

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 35.00
    Cabinet - Decals
    Bright Lights Pinball
    $ 249.00
    Lighting - Led
    PinballBulbs
    $ 12.00
    Cabinet - Other
    Rock Custom Pinball
    From: $ 35.00
    Boards
    PCB Emporium
    From: $ 200.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    CzTV Mods
    $ 18.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 15.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Metal-Mods
    $ 38.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    The MOD Couple
    $ 50.00
    £ 58.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Sillyoldelf Mods
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    £ 49.00
    Lighting - Led
    PinballToys
    € 9.95
    Playfield - Other
    Multigame
    $ 49.95
    From: $ 5,599.00
    Pinball Machine
    Great American Pinball
    $ 159.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 999.00
    Pinball Machine
    Mircoplayfields
    $ 10.95
    Apparel - Unisex
    Pinball Wheezer
    $ 89.99
    Lighting - Led
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 5,799.00
    Pinball Machine
    Classic Game Rooms
    $ 7,499.00
    Pinball Machine
    Little Shop Of Games
    € 159.00
    Cabinet - Toppers
    FlipperLED

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside